I live in Texas and new to growing sugar apple and soursop tree. We have degree up to 110 here. I have my tiny sugar apple in the 40 percent shade and the bigger soursop against my fence for evening shade. The soursop was getting sunburn and lost almost all of its leaves but it’s growing out new leaves now. I do fish fertilizer, esp I’m salt, slow release fertilizer every few weeks with wood chip mulch. It’s tricky, they need sunlight to grow but too much sun leave them sunburn. 🤷🏻♀️
Yes…gardening can be tough at times, some of the branches of my dragon fruits were sunburn this year as well. 110 is hot, hope your trees can assimilate. I heard TX gets really cold in the winter, the sugar apple doesn’t do well with the cold.
Likewise, I love sugar apples more than atemoyas. Hoping to have a better season this year. Good luck with your tree. Not sure if you had your tree in the ground, but might worth a try in a pot to bring it indoor when the weather gets cold toward the end of the season.
I too live in the bay area, the first sugar apple died of wet and cold weather. I got the second one and covered it with frost fabric during the winter, and also kept the soil dry. My tree has been doing well. Good luck.
@@anninh2000Huynh nice man. My second tree is doing better, although it hasnt gone through winter yet. I think ill get a frost fabric as well in the winter time. thanks for the tip
I live in Los Gatos, CA. That's near San Jose. I just planted a sugar apple tree. I get a lot of flowers but they just opened, turned brown and fell off. Will I see fruits from them later or not? I would appreciate some advice on how to get my tree to produce fruits. I just bought it but it's about 10ft high and at least 2 years old.
You need to hand pollinate the flowers. Check out my video below. Mine just set fruits. Video to come this Friday. How to hand pollinate atemoyas, cherimoyas and sugar apples ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rNRhongYnT8.html
I use a balanced 16-16-16 synthetic fertilizer from Home Depot. Has worked good for the past 3-4 seasons. Another thing to consider is the amount of fruits to set. I’m not sure where you are located but try not to set too many. Have a taste of success first and then tweak for next season. Last season, I set too many and all cracked when winter hit.
Soil should be moist. I deep water mine once a week at the moment. Used to be twice a week when it was younger. Also, I have a lot of pavers where it's at so water is retained a bit longer.
@@thenoobgardener Thanks. my cherimoya tree this year has tremendous amount of flower buds, do you thin out buds on your tree, and to what extend...3 buds per stem or ??
Keep the buds until they bloom and set once you have pollinated them. I would thin out the fruits because some will be deformed and some might not set in the location where you wanted. Once they have all set, you can then decide how to thin. Normally, 1-2 fruits per branch, but it's the overall tree that determines how many fruits it can handle. If you watched my other Atemoya videos, my trees can hold 25 fruits each comfortably. I can push it to 30-40 easily, but then, what am I going to do with the fruits?
@@thenoobgardener I'll take them off of your hands if you have too many😁. but seriously, what do you mean by "might not set in the location where I wanted"? If I want as many fruits as my tree can handle, why it matters where the fruits are located on the tree? thanks agin
Typically, you would want to set fruits on a thick branch and close to the body of the tree. These get big and can snap the branch if you set at the end of a flimsy branch. So lets say you have 3 buds in anideal location and you decided to thin two, what if the third bud does not set? or no pollens when it blooms?
@@thenoobgardenerHaha yeah I guess you could always just nab the flowers or young fruit if they set where you don't want them too! Honestly that makes more sense if you're trying to shape it to a specific shape.
