Your videos have helped me a lot. I only found you this morning. Got a wild hair and decided to go to county line and surf today. Using many of the techniques you teach, I’ve instantly become a way better surfer. I got a ton of compliments on my surfing today, especially from the locals.
Hey Kale, love your channel! I had a few contrary thoughts when I watched this episode, especially the side by sides. Kelly's ability to go through the turn in a more upright position is a product of more speed as opposed to the other way round. (I would normally encourage people to have as much compression as possible up until the final 30% of the turn where they can then push/extend and transfer the potential energy into kinetic - as you said with the spring analogy) He has more speed because he goes from rail to rail (toes to heels) without a break in between. Whereas in your cutback you go toes, neutral lateral pressure, then onto your heels. When the board is on a rail it is trapping the apparent flow of water underneath the board and generating speed. If weight is back and the board isn't on the rail then...well those are the brakes. He also draws a much tighter arc for three reasons: 1 he spends more time with his front leg straight (weight/hips back) this, again, he is able to do because he's got more speed going into the turn. 2 his back foot is in the centre of the board whereas yours is nearly over the toeside rail 3 you've been very hard on yourself by comparing turns with two very different boards! Your turn is really impressive given the board shape :) Would love to hear your thoughts.
For sure! I hope I made it clear that because he was going faster he was able to stay more upright. A few slight adjustments in the footing can definitely help a turn
I also noticed his backfoot doesn't seem to be all the way back on the tailpad while entering the wave (going into the cutback), that might give him a bit more drive on a flater wave. What you reckon? Great vid btw.
Dylan Mullin same here, starting to realise that you have to do way more drawn out long turns. It surfs like a dream though, fast and flows well with the wave
Hello, I’m 14 years old and live on the Coastline. Im confident enough to start learning to surf but first I need a board. I’m 125 pounds and 5’10”. The beach’s around me are roughly about 5 less than 6 feet tall and the water is about 6/7 feet deep. I want this to be my go-to board. Any help or suggestions on what board I should get?
Get something around 6'6' and 40 liters so you can ride it on longboard and shortboard days . Start in whitewash then paddle out to 1-2 foot waves and watch a lot of videos
Hi kale, love your channel, it's great, thanks for all the videos. I have a question about cutback, maybe you can help. I'm just starting my way around cutbacks and it seems like many times when i try to do a cutback my inner rail (the one that i put pressure on) get stuck in the watter and therefore i fall and can't finish the cutback. why does it happen? What do i do wrong ? Thanks in advance.
I tried to do a wrapping roundhouse cutback a few times today but as finished to the main turn I lost all my speed... every single time. Any tips on this?
@kale brock that kelly's cutback you chose to analyze is quite lame, don't you think? KS has zillions of cutbacks better than that... and other surfers, like yadin nicol's on this Rincon video at 1:47: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HOIpSwt4b00.html or the bruce irons cutback at trestles against his RIP brother AI, back in the day that was flawless. Cheers, love your channel and videos!
