Phil, you are seriously at the top of your game man, highly skilled sawyer, love all your videos, I truly pick up a few great cutting g tips from you both 🎉❤. Stay safe to you both.
I'm concerned about the fallers commenting who don't see the maybe 7 or 8 inch long, maybe 5 inch deep dutchman you create here, or the way the tree almost spins a quarter turn as it comes down and gets thrown by it. Like, what on Earth do their face cuts look like normally.
Yep. Well I'm not a faller but I don't see, don't understand either. Can you explain? I saw the tree do that spin at the end of course. Was that desired? Why? And what's this 'dutchman' for? To make a tree fall in a certain direction? Well that's what you cut the notch in a certain direction for isn't it? Or is it just to make sure that the notch and hinge you've cut do what they're supposed to do? A way of helping them out? Strengthening them? The way having one end of the hinge (the end away from the lean) does when felling a leaner?
he doesnt want the tree to go downhill but the saw curf hes cutting is downhill, but somehow the tree goes where hes aiming. ive cut a lot of trees but im to dumb to understand this cut.
I always found a wedge in the bottom corner to really help initiate rotation on the stump. I would face it for direction, then put a Dutchman in. I would backcut just above the face and cut up as far as possible on the heavy Dutchman side and get a wedge in that heavy corner. Then I would tickle the holding side as I tapped the wedge. The wedge in that bottom corner acts like a ramp. It takes some pressure off that point and creates a ramp that the tree slides off of, because you want that part of the hinge to let go and start rotating. The wedge there kicks that tree around so it rotates around into the face. Try it sometime. An old cutter showed me that trick, and I got really good at it.
I face the tree to where I know it will start, then I undercut for direction. In my experience the kicker thrown in there only causes stress on that little triangle of holding wood. Works for some, but ain't for me.
@@timberfallingcouple I put the wedge opposite from my triangle of holding wood. So it shouldn’t be stressing the holding wood. You want that triangle to hold, but you want the opposite side to rotate. There is a lot of weight creating friction on the leaning side. The wedge there helps lift the heavy side, removing that friction and helping that side to rotate. And since you are lifting the heavy side, you are actually taking stress off the holding wood by lifting it towards the holding wood. The wedge is taking pressure off the holding wood, reducing friction on the heavy side that you want to rotate, and it’s actually giving it a kick to start walking around. I had a very tall 4 foot Douglas Fir leaning very hard downhill right at a house, and turned it a full 90 degrees sidehill doing this method.
I accidentally deleted your last comment trying to delete my last as well. I finally watched the video to see what you're talking about. That was not a kicker at all. I was literally wedging the tree over. You're missing the point of the dutchman. There is no point to trying to lift all the weight of that tree up the hill the point is to get it rolling and swinging. So you wedge it towards the dutchman, not against it, otherwise just face and undercut the tree and wedge the damn thing up without the dutchie. That's about it I'm going to say about this. You may need to get back with your 60 year old homeboy and reassess your understanding of the concept here if you're having a hard time understanding wedging the tree vs kickers. Hope you don't smoosh nothing.
