How to Tell If You're Buying a High Quality Watch 

Tom- "Expensive does not mean good quality" *shows a Hublot*

There's an amazing shot you guys took of a Grand Seiko where the minute hand is at 2 o'clock and the second hand approaches and you can see the reflection of the logo in the reflection of the second hand. In the reflection of the *underside* of the second hand. That is quality at absurd levels, the hands are mirror finished and so is the underside. PLEASE use that shot more often. Actually, just put it in every video, that'll be good

With regards to weight, I was surprised to learn that was a thing so many people used to gauge watches and why they had issues with titanium as a result. Way before I got into watches, I collected pocket knives and titanium and other resilient but lightweight metals were highly desired in handles/scales. Titanium especially came a premium at the time. Related, I once assured watch newbie online who was hesitant about getting a G-Shock because they didn't know if lightweight resin could be durable and used in a well constructed watch. Sharing a video of a G-Shock being run over by a truck and still working seemed to do the trick

Sure fire sign that a watch is good quality - It says "A Lange & Sohne" on it (in German).

Interesting that Breitling didn't bother to finish the underside of the second hand at 8:51. Probably just a minor detail though.

“Expensive doesn’t mean quality” *Hublot enters the shot* 😂

Good point about titanium. There are excellent watches out of titanium that make for an easy daily wear due to their lightness, preferred over steel by those who know.

Agree with all the points, especially the feel on winding a watch. Winding a seiko 5, goes almost too smoothly, little resistance, slightly scratchy tactile feedback A Nomos has resistance but still quite rough, almost feels like it needs a service even when new A JLC reverso, sublime, beautifully smooth, you can feel it getting tighter, every click of the lever spring is audible as well as crisply palpable, does take a 13:38 13:38 good few full turns of the crown to get it going A Richard Lange. Literally not a turn but a single click of the lever spring and the watch starts. The precision of the engineering is mind blowing.

If it says Credor or Grand Seiko on the dial, you know it's well made. 😏

I thought i was just being OC, but it's great you guys mentioned that pinion cap. I often look for that cap when comparing between two or more watches in the same price range and actually make buying decisions based on this (among other things of course). The hands just look that much neater and elegant with that cap on there. Thanks for talking about it. 🥰

I love that the Sugess had the hand pinion capped and the Lange had the second hand pinion open. 😂

The markers line up, the colors don't bleed into each other, sapphire crystal with AR coating, solid end links, solid links, if see-thru crystal Sapphire on both sides, cyclops lines up, crisp bezel action, good lum., milled clasp with more than three micro adjusts or good quality leather or sailcloth strap ... if NATO then grommets or sealed holes. Now all the above said there are many mid-tier to end watches that fail one or some of these.

Being able to actually open the back without breaking the watch is usually a good start, otherwise the producer clearly states that their product is designed to be disposable. Then again, there is no brand that'd ever think so little of both their own creation and their paying customers...

If there's a lot of play in the keyless works. If you switch from moving the hands forward to moving the hands back, and it takes a quarter turn of the crown for the hands to reverse direction you probably have a cheaper movement.

This whole time I thought Tom had never touched a watch, now come to find out he has fondled ever watch since the early 2000s!

A very interesting topic to discuss, as the general definition of “Quality” is fitness for purpose. No one would deny that an A Lange & Sohne is a totally awesome watch (as is a lot of other expensive brands) but the word quality is difficult to give meaning. A $100 dollar watch can certainly be a quality watch, when considering fitness for purpose and the relative cost for it. I think, an unfair bias would be introduced if a watch was $100,000 dollars is a thousand times more quality than its $100 dollar counterpart, the mats does not make sense. Like everyone else on your channel, I believe that expensive watch makers go to extraordinary lengths to make their products as perfect as is humanly possible, as this is fully appreciated in the end product.

Please send link on the video where the "diminishing returns" concept is talked about.

i have a 350€ watch with a capped second hand on right now. It really does elevate the watch 😊

I've noticed a detail in many high end watches shown in these macro shots that I just can't seem to ignore and I think it's these little details that really show you what you're wearing on your wrist. So many great names only finish the top of the seconds/chronometer hand. This is especially frustrating when you see the gross unfinished bottom on the hand in these macro shots. There are very few brands that I've seen really pay attention to the finish on the hands of their flagship models. I realize this is a pedantic thing but once you see it you can't unsee it and you just know it's there.

Like my old granddad used to say, "If something feels hollow and rattle-y, it's probably hollow and rattle-y." Thanks fellers!

I think there should be several videos on this topic. As in a hundred dollar watch versus a thousand dollar watch. A thousand dollar watch vs a $10,000 watch. A $10,000 watch to versus a $100,000 watch. What should you expect moving from one level to the next. If the crown on a Tag Heuer feels like the crown on an entry level seiko, something is wrong.

The way it holds up over time in its functioning and appearance.

You guys knew we'd disagree with that thumbnail 🤣

Im just learning about watches by watching your channel for about a year now. I just bought my first "real" introduction watch - a black 1950s LeCoultre galaxy with the ridged mystery dial a few days ago. Took a while to find bc I really wanted black and with the ridged dial. Ive been looking to see if you mentioned this watch. I like the history of this watch and its only collaboration with Vacheron Constantin and also that its small (VERY SMALL), oddly subtle, and just a beautiful little watch...i wonder why it never maintained its popularity.1957

If the lug snaps off the case when you're removing a springbar that's an indication that some corners have been cut

Though I am not really fan of luxury watches , I like your videos, you can look for everyday watches, like brands of Titan and Timex , which won't punch a hole in one's pocket . Other brands: Citizen,Sonata,Fastrack,Jaipur

In the next 10 years i hope to get the below 5 watches: - Rolex Datejust - Because my dad had 1 and I want to get a similar one. - Rolex Submariner - Because why not? - Tudor Blackbay 58 - Because it's a beautiful watch, but why is it out of stock now? - Breitling Navitimer - Because it's a piece of history. But I don't know what size to get, probably smaller than 42. - A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 - Because it is the most amazing watch in the world and there's nothing like it in the world. Have to get them by financing over 2 years each, so total 10 years. But the Rolexes are a headache for me. Because it takes so long for delivery. which means I may have to get them last, hopefully with time, their availability will become better.

You are right on all accounts. I personally do my research research and research. Just like with anything you HAVE to do your research. But nothing can replace the actual touch feel and personal interaction with the watch. If you can you have to strap that watch on your wrist and see and feel it. You may love it on your wrist or you may absolutely hate it.

For me, any swiss made watch with perpetual calendar chronograph in the title is an awesome watch.

I've recently began my obsession as a watch collector. And i must say- out of all the luxury brands I've been researching, for me the amzwatch's watches are the most intriguing.

Interesting that you mention good quality materials vs the kind which damages your skin. That describes the 42mm Seamaster perfectly. A workhorse of a watch, captivating to look at and ridiculously well made, except for the bracelet being like razor blades on your skin and making you feel like Mr T under the weight of it all.

Compare the under side of the second hand on the Breitling Navitimer vs Grand Seiko Spring drive.

Can you please do a video on the Lange 1815 Up/Down? Pretty please?

"Have you ever seen that the pinion...has a little hole in it? Have you noticed that?" "SURE! YEAHYEAHYEAH!" 😂

I bought a $425 watch, worried it wouldn't be quality. The case is solid and well made, the applied indices are orderly, the sapphire is clear and flat, the dial color is even in tone, the bezel action fine, and the little myota engine is accurate. That is quality.

Yes My Invicta pro diver is a quality watch, It feels real good!

I want a Grand Seiko so bad because of you guys.

The quality I look for is stuff that goes to comfort like adjustable clasps, comfortable bracelets, lots of fine adjusts, and the ability to keep working year after year. The quality of the polishing is a don't care issue for me. Also wasn't your thumbnail one of the Moonswatches? Did I miss where you talked about that?

I hate that bubble over the date, and have no use for a outer circle with big numbers on it, especially when diving. That highly polished case in titanium is amazing. Printed or sprayed on parts with a low DPI is a turn off for me, especially in a lume. Those dials with seconds split up into fourths and a second hand sweeping them precisely is nice, and misaligned hands is a turn off. Titanium strap instead of stainless steel that irritates my skin and wears out in 10-20 years says something.

Tom Unleashed! Go Tom great job, you are ready for your own show: "Tom's Timepieces"

I can tell the watch is quality when the parts are repeatable and mass produced. Same scenario for Seiko, they do have affordable automatic watches. It's 100% sure that the finishing, movements are fined tuned to standards.

When you take it out of the box the first time, you just think wow! There's so much the video can't do it justice.

Would be curious to see your review of an Orient automatic watch

I hadn’t almost 30 watches but my every day work watch is a titanium flieger by Zeno. It was pre owned and cheap has a 6498 that beats at 18000. Wish it had center seconds with hacking but o well.

Sounds. Typically the he knock offs sound wrong when you shake them. The steel in the bracelets sound different. If they are too loose. Also if you practice listening to the movements you can tell cheap from quality too. 😊

Question: since many high end watch manufacturers outsourced many aspects of component manufacturing to places such as China - in order to increase their profit margin - are the chickens now coming back to roost when the Chinese take what they learned and apply it to MUCH less expensive watches with things such as the complications you mentioned? I ask because it seems to me that not very long ago 'complications' were a way to judge whether a watch was quality?

Nice video, and learned a lot

The underside of the Breitling second hand reflected in the hour hand at 9:32 looks shocking. Compare with the Grand Seiko immediately following.

Personally I agree with the weight thing. I used to wear a Fossil chronograph watch before in preschool, but wearing that compared to wearing a Date just now makes me feel like I have a rock on my wrist compared to how light my date just is.

the hublot has those screws in the bezel. i think it looks bad.

For some reason IWC seem to be way ahead with MAR coatings.

“Is it heavy?” “Yeah?” “Then it’s expensive, put it down” Great Jurassic Park reference 👌

Is a zenith 2nd hand zenith good value ?

Happy Australia to you guys in Pommagalia and elsewhere around the world🤪 👍🇭🇲🇭🇲🇭🇲🇭🇲

High durable expensive materials like rhodium, tungsten, platinum, titanium, carbon fiber, white gold, oystersteel, iridium for me you can't go wrong.

Great video idea !!!

one huge aspect of "quality" that is not mentioned here is.... how hard is it to get it repaired? A watch of good quality should not be hard to find a place to get it worked on and brought back to factory new condition

Find a large body of water, preferably a pool, hold both arms out, in the pool, and if the arm with the watch on it falls faster than the other one, you know you got yourself a good watch!

Good quality very often survives time. Not always - but if a product does not need to be modified for a longer time, it is maybe because of good quality

😂 I thought he was going to say the little red stopper that pops out of the turkey.

You could start with comparing it to the moon swatch and comparing it on a scale of how much better it is than that watch… It doesn’t mean it’s well-made but it probably means it’s not junk.

I would have lost money betting they would reference the quality of the lume used as one of the indicators.

What can you say about YT part 2, Sharon Cuneta Rolex Datejust Royalty in her Vblog. one of a kind in the world.

I think you can just 'feel' the quality on seem pieces, just run your finger over it and the touch is just right.

Can you buy it at retail? That tells me a watchmaker is into watchmaking and not marketing.

My tip is watch Watchfinder

Usually if it says "Hublot" or "Mattel" on the dial it's usually shite. Anything else would probably be better.

If Andrew and Tom are in agreement, I usually check my credit card balance.

We call it piano finish in the car industry

My Frederique has a small pinion cap, but my Moser doesn't, interesting...

"Off the rack tourbillon....." - much as I love you guys, a burst of snobbery did shoot through there loud and clear!! Kinda 'How dare they produce a cheap (and yes, lower quality - we all agree on that) tourbillon?!!!'

Be Honest......... After seeing this video, How many people went to check if there's a little whole in any of their watch collection ? 😅🤣😅

I got a MoonSwatch from usa just by the pictures and hype and after getting it into the hand i was out rightly disappointed with the quality from the first touch itself

Many of us have kids that want to participate in our watch obsession but I for one don't want to put a $200 Seiko on the wrist of a kid who plays in a sandbox. Can you do a list of best watches for enthusiast's kids?

Some collectors: I hate light watches they are cheap! Same collectors: Titanium watches are my favorite!

Nice video

Hi Tom & Andrew. One point of clarification. Zaratsu polishing and "black polishing" are two different processes. Only the latter creates a surface that appears true black at certain angles. Cheers!

hold it to your ear and listen

good stuff

price

I hate the pinion hole. That is a detail that should not be left out

PLEASE do an investigation in to Phantasos watch. I have not received my watch which I purchased after viewing your video. They are playing silly buggers with their website and no replies after attempting to contact them. I also read on Time and Tide page that this is also an issue their readers have had. So please do the needful and assist given your promotion of this brand! Thanks !

i ordered a $2 watch on aliexpress no way a $9000 would be 4500 times as good

Research reviews of reliable sources.

Zaratsu polishing is apparently just the way the Japanese watchmakers pronounced the sallaz polishing machine they bought 😂

When are you doing you video with nico!

Does the logo on the Crown sit level 1:22

a better title would have been 10 things that doesnt mean a watch is good quality

1:35 “Actually going full Stevie Wonder on it….” Come on guys! 🤨

4:34 if the manufacturer capped the hole in tge hand that’s a good sign of quality…. 7:20 showing a Chinese made Sugess watch with tourbillon, and capped hole, but low quality…

It's actually quite easy. Buy a MoonSwatch. Then you know everything about low quality watches

You said wibley wobley, but forgot timey wimey !!!!!

1st way : check if it's a Grand Seiko 2nd way : check if it's a Grand Seiko ... ... ... 10th way : check if it's a Grand Seiko.

I dont have any hole on my Grand Seikos, quartz or hibeat…

If there isn’t a Giant Unicorn covering the open case back then the watch is shite.

No one ever mentions that the Speedmaster bezel is friction fit on the hesalite, loves to fall off over time, and always gets caught on the edge of drawers.

easiest way is to see if andrew and tom approve..👍😏

For me it's simple, if it has the word "Indiglo" on it, it's a good watch. If not, it's useless to me.

If it starts with the word Moon, it's overpriced.

My 12 pound cast iron watch has never let me down. Mind you I never swim with it. I imagine your Granny is very disappointed in you.