Ok. Correct me if I am wrong. I am towing a 30 ft travel trailer and I am getting a Curt wireless brake controller so that I don't have to run wires to install a traditional one. 12V has to be there and be protected by a 40A fuse. BK is from the brake controller which has intensity from 0-12V to control how hard to brake. If you don't have a traditional brake controller, this wire connects to nowhere. For me, I will have the curt wireless controller, I will have the BK signal after curt is installed. But don't expect the little LED on your tester will light up when only 1V is applied to it. BU is not needed unless you have backup light on your trailer OR a solenoid bypass on a surge hydraulic brake (for boat towing as it is water proof) so that you can backup without locking up the wheels. So, for me, I have 12V constantly, TM when running light is on, RT blinking with right turn, solid with brake pressed, LT blinking with left turn, solid with brake pressed, then I am all set. (Oh, turn on the hazard and both RT and LT are blinking.)
Not sure i have never used the wireless ones... But yes you would have to step on the brake to see the tester light up brighter. The brake controller should have a manual plunger to press by hand, when depressed you should feel resistance on the trailer brakes of the trailer your towing.
These results are valid if there is a brake controller installed, righ? Without it, would the 12V and BK lights be on? In my case, I don't have a brake controller, my 12V, BK and BU don't go on at all.
Hi there the best way to test a brake controller is have the trailer hooked up and apply the brake controller override if the trailers tire skid it's working correctly, Another option is to test plug on vehicle with multimeter or test light and have someone apply just the brake controller override.
Are you familiar with the Winnebago Adventurer 1999 diesel?? I tried the towing sockets, hooked to the car and nothing happened...no lights worked. any suggestions?? Thanks!
I would check your owners manual first under fuses and towing, some vehicles come form factory without the fuses for accessories like towing hookups check it out first! Cheers! :)
I noticed the tester has marked on one of the lights 12V. Confirming this would be the one for checking to see of you have 12V going to your rv's (travel trailer) 12V battery in order to keep it charged. If so, would you have to be running the vehicle in order see of this is working? I guess one way to check is start your engine and see if the 12V tester light goes on…
What i find is most vehicles are not installed with the 12v battery power option unless you add it after. I have checked many other vehicles that have the 7-way but no 12v battery charging option.
I just installed 10 inch brakes and new drums on utility trailer. How do I know the brakes are actually activated when I hit the brake petal? Are the magnets always activated even when everything is turned off as one test of good brakes? Do I remove one drum then hit the brakes to see the magnet move as another test? Thanks for your reply.
Jack up the trailer wheel spin the wheel by hand and hit the brakes if the wheel stops it's working if not you may have to adjust the brakes or check wiring and voltage to the trailer brakes, Utility trailer brakes will likely not skid but help in slowing the trailer when braking... Hope his helps Cheers! :)
Hey good evening mi signal lights in my trailer both blinking ether side on my ford 2015 and I hook it up on a ram or Chevy it works just fine what’s the problem here
Sounds like a bad ground on the truck wiring harness hookup... Try to locate the ground wire where it's attached to the frame of the truck and see if its loose or corroded. Another thing is to have someone watch your lights as you wiggle all the wires when the lights start working correctly you found your short.. Also check the 7 pin hookup wire harness on the truck and the trailer make sure no bent tabs or corrosion inside...
I am testing my setup with this exact tester from Princess Auto as well. When I turn the vehicle accessory on, the BK light flashes continually, then when I apply the brakes it lights up like it's supposed to. The controller is a Reese Brakeman 4.
Nice video. But what does the BK stand for on the tester? I worked on a trailer and the brakes WOULD work with two other trucks but NOT with the owners truck . I have two testers like the one you have, a Curt and a Tekonsha. Both of them showed the Left and Right turn signals activated when applying the brakes but the brakes were not activated. The lights and everything else worked but no brakes. I had the trailer jacked up with both wheels off the ground spinning the tires so magnets were activated. Plus the 12v light was on.
Hi There, Check that you do have a brake controller installed and working on the vehicle it could also be a brake in the line or short somewhere (they are not fun to locate) BK - means Output from brake controller... Hope this helps! Cheers, 12V = 12 volt hot lead BK = output from brake controller (if no brake controller is installed, this light will not light up) BU = reverse lights (if this circuit is not connected on the vehicle it will not light up) RT = Right Turn TM = running lights (tail/marker lights) LT = left turn
Thank you so much for your reply. Once again great video. That BK light on the testers did not light up with the Customer's Toyota 4-Runner or other two company trucks that DID activate the trailer brakes. One truck is a brand new 2017 Chevy 2500 with the factory installed brake controller. Both Company Trucks are used for trailer towing and the 7-way round works perfectly on them. I could see if one of the testers was malfunctioning but BOTH of them not working? That is why I purchased two of them, one Tekonsha and one Curt. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BCA9B8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EOWQY4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When you put the tester in the 7pin on the truck make sure the pins or tabs are not bent or corroded and check the trailer end as well i had one pin slightly bent once and no go! If still nothing use a 12v tester on each tab (grounding the negative lead of the tester to the frame or solid metal) and the positive lead testing each tab or pin in the 7pin on the truck while someone steps on and of the brake you will see the light go on and off, If nothing your going to have to trace it back to the brake controller. ALSO BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS MAKE SURE ALL FUSES ARE IN AND WORKING FOR BRAKE AND CONTROLLER) Check the owners manual and make sure all fuses are in and not blown! could be an easy fix! Cheers,
What I was asking if the car is hooked to the trailer and the battery was dead would the lights on the trailer work while it is hooked up to my car to check the lights etc. would it work if the battery was dead?
If your talking about the marker, brake lights on the trailer yes it would. You could take the RV battery out of the RV and they would still work as it would be getting it's power from the tow vehicle.
Check All your connectors first make sure they are not corroded. Wiggle wires from behind the plug on your vehicle it could be a lose wire or ground... There is a separate tab for running lights is it bent? Try using a light tester and testing each tab in the plug on the vehicle with the lights on. You have to determine if it's the truck or trailer that is the problem rule out the truck first by hooking up to another trailer if you can or another vehicle to your trailer. Hope this helps Cheers, :)