#multimeter #roystheboy #briggsandstratton This videoi show you how to test brigg and stratton coils using a multi meter Email: roystheboy2@gmail.com Twitter: / roytheb39804025 Instagram: / roystheboy2
Hey sir thank you for sharing. I have little faith in lawnmower shops though they can fix anything if you are rich. I do thank God for RU-vid for such people like me living on a small budget. Again thank you Sir
Thanks for sharing - this helped rule out coils as my issue and it ended up being the coil gap itself on the one side, set to Briggs spec of .010 and now Mower is running like a champ!
Very helpful. Thank you. I just bought (very cheap - 20$) a 8 hp snowblower with B&S engine, no spark - so I'll use this metode to test it. Very easy, and I don't have to remove anything to get it testet either :)
hello there! new canadian friend here! thanks for stopping by my channel much appreciated! this video was very insiteful! thanks for explaining all this!
GREAT VIDEO BIG ANSWER MATE😅 NOBODY STATES IF THERE ISNT A READING THE COIL IS DEAD. ONLY YOU👌. NOW I KNOW FOR SURE MY COIL IS DEAD. God Bless you bro NY VIEWER
have a briggs sprint 40 lx from 2000 and this is the first time it's not sparked, now know the coil is ok and it's probably the 24 year old plug, thanks Roy.
Just FYI - resistance has no polarity, so you don't have to worry about putting the positive test lead or the negative lead in a specific place - you'll get the same whether they are switched or not.
I just did this test on a power washer today. It had no spark. So I pulled the coil and checked it. The coil read 4.5 k which was within specs. I noticed it had considerable rust on the legs and on the flywheel. I polished those up and..viola! The engine started.
Hi, George Pierce by way of your Facebook comment, thank you. You deliver...actually over-deliver exactly what your viewers are expecting, thanks for excellent content and presentation, well done. A few more keywords in your description might make YT love your video even more. Very nice video, thanks.
Thanks for the good video. My coil tested within the range you describe, but due to ruling out everything else that could have caused the mower not to have spark, I replaced the coil with a used coil, and the mower started right up.
Hi Roy Im not a million miles from you in Chislehurst (Bromley, S E London way). Ive watched loads of video's on checking these coils, all hard to understand. After watching yours i get it now, nice and easy to follow.
Just a slight correction, for the open circuit example you say it has no resistance, when it in fact has infinite resistance (at least in practical terms).
Good info. I’ll be testing the coil on a cursed freebie shortly. One item to note, Comm is your ground or earth connection, not positive. Black wire goes there. You’re red wire would go in either outside connection, right side for volts, ohms or milliamps, left side for DC amps. Hope this helps.
If you are checking for continuity or taking an ohm reading the positive or negative doesn't matter with a digital meter. It is simply reading between the meter leads. Not a polarity bias situation.
Good video but one thing to keep in mind, coils can fail under running conditions. The heat can cause the internal windings to fail and in turn the coil fails. I just had this happen on an older opposed twin Briggs, it would start right up when the engine was cold and after it warmed up, it would not start again (no spark). I have had this happen on other coils as well! The opposed twin engine utilized a single coil with 2 wires (the cylinders fired at TDC at the same time) - I could take 1 wire off of ether cylinder and the engine would start, as soon as I put the wire back on and tried to start it back up it lost spark. A new coil fixed the problem!
I have a John Deere with the B&S 18hp not firing the spark plug on the right side. Step one switched the plugs from right to left, and right one still fouling out. Step two replaced both plugs with new ones (mainly just because it was time to do so). Step three took coils off thinking I'd be replacing the one on the right anyhow. Step four went thru this testing procedure as show in the video, but both coils are good. Step five scratched my head and stared at it for a long time. Step six, tested the kill wires with the ohmmeter and found that the one on the right has zero connectivity. So I'll be going out tomorrow to get a new wiring harness for the kill wires. I'm happy that I'm buying two pieces of wire for about $12-15 instead of a more expensive coil. Hopefully that fixes it and I can get back to mowing. Thanks for the video, this was very helpful and saved me from just running out and buying a new coil without checking first.
3:20 You should measure the primary winding between the spade connector and the bolt hole. If you measure both coils in series like you did, you will not see any difference, but if you measure the primary separately, you should get a very low ohms reading - like, less than 1ohm (change your mulltimeter scale if it isn't autoranging). While you _can_ connect a kill switch to this spade, its main connection is to the points, so it's important to check it separately. The primary is high current, low volts, and the secondary is high voltage, low current. Hope this helps.
Keith Sherry right, it is better to look at the principle of a coil, Bobine in Dutch, to understand the measured values. and at 4:40 there is that cap. It is possible that they are R types, for suppressing pulses on radio etc. then there is a hi R resistance in that cap. So 5KOhm is in the circuit already. When repairing old engines a often use caps without a suppressor resistor. Good luck with your videos!
Hi Roy. Excellent video many thanks. I have a Mountfield with Sumec engine (RV40 - RV150 Series( and purchased an after market coil which is failing to produce a spark. I have tested it and the reading is 6.2K Ohms - is this reading too high for this machine please?
Thanks for your video. Mine was bad and your video confirmed my guess. I had another idea, but can't test it right now. If you set your meter to measure DC voltage, and connect the positive lead to where the plug goes and ground the meter on the body while passing a neodymium magnet in the same path that the crankshaft goes, you should get a momentary voltage signal. If anyone can try it, let me know if my idea worked.
Very helpful. Thanks! Is there a convenient place to find out what the various resistance tolerances are for different coils? I gather that the larger the engine, the higher the range of resistance should be. Is that about right? For example, if I want to check the coil for my truck, where do I find out what I should be looking for on a good coil.
8/24/2019 Thanks Roy from Florida. Great video and plenty of lighting so everything could be seen! I liked that you gave more than one example with the different coils. I wished I came across your video before I bought a New Coil. I tested both with the same exact readings.They were 172 on both old and new coil. Where would I find how many Ohms the coil is supposed to be?Thx very much / keep up the good deeds.
I've done this test and have gotten 2.66 but my engine is only sometimes sparking, came be running okay for time then all of a sudden just won't spark anymore? Any ideas on what to look out for? Thanks
Thank you i have a 2017 murray lawn mower and no spark,but the spark plug is good because when i hook the spark plug up to another lawn mower it sparks.So it must be the coil,i hope so because they cost $45.00.I never had a bad coil and i find it hard to believe the coil is bad on a 2 year old(young)lawn mower that was hardly used and was kept in the shed,but it was used because the fuel system is good.But i will try to test the coil on the mower like you showed before i buy one.
wonderful! You helped fix my snow blower and to finally get my head around these coils. Do you know of a site that has resistance specifications for this type of coil?
So my coil is off a 17.5hp Briggs and I lost fire yesterday as I was trying to start it up, it kept flooding. Not hitting at all. Thought it was possibly a switch or sparkplug but I tried a spark tester and it wasn't jumping on it. My meter showed 1. On both tests. So my coil is dead?
I have a old Fairbanks Morse generator with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It's a model 23FBPC type 203531 serial 289831. I want to know how to test the coil on it and find out if I can get a replacement coil if it's bad. I have been told that they don't make new coils for this engine?
Finally someone that taught me the right way to use the meter on a coil!! Thank you for your help and video!! So mine reads 6.45 Briggs and Stratton would you know what a new one is supposed to read? I have ordered and installed a new thermostat, changed the oil, filter and still not wanting to run. It has a self choke primer it’s a 2013 craftsman push mower. I might add the carburetor has been cleaned as well. There’s not much more I can get besides a new coil and carburetor
If someone hit a stump the key on flywheel can shear....timeing is then off...and 6.0 is good reading... Squirt gas in plug hole...then put plug back in
@@PaulPippinjr-ev2wi I decided to keep the new coil since there was nothing wrong with the old one. I did replace the carburetor and the self choke primer and the lawnmower has been running great. And let me tell you on the first pull it started right up.🤙🏽
@@Bargle5 never seen a magnet go bad. Did you happen to sand the post the coil bolts to? Also gap it correctly. Guys like me absolutely love guys like you because of your lack of patience as well as knowledge of the situation.
@@cravenmoorehead5636 Yes, sanded all the contact points. Set and double checked the gap. Also checked for a grounded out kill wire. And made sure the spark plug was good. Nothing helped.
Thanks, having trouble with my Husqvarna 340 chainsaw, did your test with coil attached to saw and got 1.56 so is that good or bad? adjusted the coil to credit card gauge and it started for a second with starting fluid.