Sorry.But I dont understand how he test.I did not see where it he connect in outlet in AC in magnetic sensor.And in 3 wire also I did not where he connect it.Only reading I see
Let me say you are extremely good at explaining things and in a reasonable amount of time. THANK YOU for not telling a story about your girlfriends dogs new trick when I went there to find out how to fix a flat. All made up however if you want to give information to assist people who may not know just do that. I think you are the first person that has been clear to the point and not confusing. I am very well knowledgeable on automotive troubleshooting and your information is good and anyone should be able to to follow you direction with ease as well you cover all angles. I don't see how anyone could not comprehend your info even more so if they watch a couple times if new to the work. I rarely leave any comments check my profile but I feel that even though you may know you are doing a great job keep it up and more so all the people who are on limited funds that you are helping is awesome!
Very helpful video. Subbed! I will use this video to check out my dad's 2011 Altima. He said it went into limp mode driving to the supermarket this morning. I want to make sure he has a safe car to drive since he is 75.
Excellent info & teaching skills! Love your videos. Thank you so much for sharing your talents & conveying in such an easy to understand way for us laymen. Much appreciated by all!
Love your videos man !!! Being a mechanic myself the only thing I seen that could be not right.... When you were showing continuity,, I'd you have a 18 gauge wire with say 41 strands of wire in it, if 40 of those wires are broke or curroded your multimeter will show continuity. But will not carry enough current to operate the sensor. Need to show testing the wire with a couple Amp test light, depending on the circuit. Should make a video about load testing wires 👌
I replaced my 2003 sprinter cam position sensor, works better than ever, I had crank but no start issues when the van was hot. $20 part with only 2 bolts.
The three wire hall effect sensors can still be bad if you're just measuring the changing voltage. You should carefully measure their static voltages as well. You should put the meter on DC volts and measure the signal wire with the ignition on, but without starting it. The voltage should be in one of two states, High state (5 or 12 volts) and Low state (0 volts). If you turn the motor by hand using a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt it will cycle through these two states. The important thing here is that when it's in its low state, that it is very close to 0V. If you measure something like 0.120 volts, it means that your sensor is failing and should be replaced. If this happens, you will get random misfires. You should also make sure the voltage is reaching very close to the source voltage. Put one probe on the source wire and the other on the signal wire. The difference should be very small, like 0.02 volts. With these hall effect sensors, you can do this check with a new one without installing it and using that as a baseline. Simply connect it to the connector and make the same measurements; you could put something metal like a screwdriver near the sensor to put it into an activated state. I had this same problem myself. The engine ran great but I had random misfire codes pop up. The CPS signal looked good on an oscilloscope. After replacing the wires, plugs, coils, power transistor and even cleaning the carbon out of the ignition switch I was still having this intermittent problem. I took a closer look at the static voltages of the CPS and that was the problem. It was measuring 0.162v on the low state. The new one measured 0.026v.
Oh, wow, at first I thought this was the typical "mechanic in his garage"-type video which, while quite useful, are usual really low quality and mostly talking (and a ton of noise in the background) and little showing, but this is really high grade with a bunch of stuff prepared beforehand to teach us better. Good job!!
Thank you.. You are a true subject matter expert. No guessing on a three wire.. Simple test.. wire, crank, scan the multimeter for a voltage signal.. Thank you.. Thank. Made it simple.. Have a great day..
This video is more helpful than I can say. I'm currently having a crank-no-start issue and by George i cannot figure it out. Time to do these tests. I've got the 3-wire - mitsu evo 7. Thanks RAW. God bless you.
i found this video by accident however it is useful for ppl who dont know what they are doing or are doing general repairs on sensors. great explanation.
Crank and cam position sensors generally are notorious for failing, but let's be honest, Land Rovers are notorious going back 30+ years for electrical reliability (well, lack of to be more precise). Long may it continue (and it will)
Great video man. Way to explain the volt meter function. What if your engine is running fine then shuts off. After about 5 minutes it fires back up with no issues. But will repeat. I've already replaced the ignition module to no effect. This is a 2.5L Ford 4 cylinder
@@tonydavila2606 you're the 1st to say that. Thanks i'l look into that. So if i turn it off right after I'm done and try to turn it back on it won't start until i let it cool down.
4PITTS1BURGH2 yeah if it’s clogged and restricts the air flow it will choke the engine and when you turn it off it’ll slowly leak out then it’ll run again until it chokes the engine. Basically like trying to run with your nose plugged. Let me know what you find!
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU.
Thanks for the information in this video and others. A lot of mechanics won't tell you this stuff so you'll have to go to them for overpriced repairs. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Sometimes repairs are expensive, not always intentionally overpriced. It costs a LOT in overhead to hang a shingle out and open a legit business. I can't ask a guy to give up his day to fix my stuff for the same price I could and make no money to pay the light bill, taxes and tool truck bill plus house and feed their family on short days when they get home by dinner. They won't be around long. There are scalpers out there and I have no defense or respect for them. Cheers!
Very difficult to understand for a non english man due to the fast speech..in any way this is the better video i have encountered for this purpose, thanks a lot.
Hey there.. great video. My car has issues starting when the engine is cold. Take several (LOTS) tries and it will finally start. Once it warms up, no more starting issues. 1993 Volvo 240 Wagon
Eric J Simmons how long has it been since you changed your battery of your vehicle? I just changed my battery because it needed to be charged a bit before starting up. It would click instead of starting up.
Awesome video, watched til the end. A little slow and basic for my liking, but love your efforts explaining it correctly. I am curious to watch more of your vids.
You are the best.. I replace timing belt and car wouldn't start.. By mistake, I had pinch the crank position sensor wire.. as per your testing technical help me to check my CPS.. thanks
To add a bit, if you have an older engine (say 1995 to 2010) with a coil-pack instead of an individual coil for each cylinder, then likely 2 cylinders share a coil. That is the "wasted spark" system where the spark plug fires on both the compression and exhaust stroke. If such wasted-spark, then the ignition system (spark) doesn't use the camshaft signal. The camshaft signal is only used to synch the fuel injectors to the intake valve openings, for lower emissions around idle. Of course such synching doesn't help at higher throttle since the injectors are spraying much longer and while the intake valve is closed. In such engines, the camshaft signal shouldn't be required for the engine to run well (just not optimal idle emissions), but that doesn't mean it will. I think some do and some don't. My 1996 2.4L & 2002 3.8L Chrysler engines die if I unplug the camshaft sensor, even though they have coil-packs and wasted-spark ignitions. Perhaps the designers were just being mean. Chrysler crank & cam sensor are 3-wire (Hall-effect) type, but powered by 8 VDC from the PCM.
I have an 03 ram 1500 that would run fine for about 20 minutes and start to spit and sputter with NO CODES. I had a hell of time with crank shaft sensor. Swapped out both cam and crank and everything seems fine.. I used this video for a reference for my issues. Idk why dodge makes it so hard to find out what's wrong. Thanks for the help
Thanks for good video. Sensor is OK as you told but car still take long self to start. Before car was OK,, just for nothing I opened the Cam sensor to make it clean because large mud of power steering oil was on it. But now car takes a long self to start before it was having nothing problem
I was told that my CPS is possibly failing.. But here is my sittuation. There is no check engine light and the car starts fine but has rough idling in the heat or after the 1st trip? So if you drive in the morning to get gas there is no issues, but after you start up your car again (2nd trip) it starts idling low or bad. I have an AC adapter that reads voltage and at stops/red lights it drops below 12v.
Great video! I'd like to add that some crank sensors with produce voltage and can still be faulty if it is not being pulled all the way to ground, but you would need a scope to see that, cheers!
So the second sensor he tests, when he puts the paperclips on it are we assuming he plugs the sensor back into the car but doesn’t connect the pins to the wiring harnesses since he has them hooked up to his tester unit? Or does he hook it up to both his tester unit and the cars wiring harness?
Thank you so much for making this video. My 2004 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi died on me and now it barely runs and smokes really bad . Hoping this sensor is the problem. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent video plenty of important details been explant very clearly came from master tech ,who can make harder lessons about cars mechanic problems to been more easy to been understood when ever one of us see his great videos , from bottom of my hart I would like to thank you very much.
Like your Excellent Lessons :+) I recently got P0339 HONDA CKP SENSOR A CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT on my 2008 4cyl Honda Accord. ... My INNOVA OBD2 scanner also pulled a 10 second BATTERY Monitor scan test resulting in 11.84 VOLTS (at ECM vs 12.5v at my battery terminals) ... while saying: "BELOW ACCEPTABLE LIMITS". ... I believe my small 4 cylinder Napa battery has been reading marginally lower voltage for a couple years plus (& possibly the biggest source of my problem). I also believe some higher end batteries of same small size would retain higher voltage. My Choice now is: I am going up a size to the 24F larger size battery (spec 6 cylinder Accords) in AGM format as my best shot for a long term fix. I lost Engine torque when that code tripped. ... Erasing that code with my Innova scanner after study resulted in no more problems or codes returning (so far/ even though my 24F AGM battery order in progress makes that a near future project). I also intend to remove my Crank Shaft Sensor's plug and spay contact cleaner. ... My two cents as a past mechanic shop owner who still like doing all my own wrenching :+)
Great video. I've been trying to fix my Tahoe that has p0336 error code and have watch all you videos to try to help. I've replaced the sensor, wiring, control module for coil, and the coil and still can't get any spark. Something odd is going on because I have power to all different components but its like the sensor is not able to read the signal when the metal cog/notch rotates past inside the timing cover.
Hello friend, good tip, maybe you have time to explain me this, he did the test to find the negative wire on the connector by using a multimeter. The setting was Ohms but he had the ignition switch ON also he hooked up the black lead to the battery post negative side, is that safe and correct, a friend long time taught me the correct way to find resistance but everything has to be OFF no source of power, am I wrong the way I had learnt, please break it down for me thanks.
Nice job explaining the differing voltages from the 2 wire sensor. This is what I needed to troubleshoot a problem with a new cam shaft sensor that appears to be faulty. I am at my wits end in getting this car figured out. As we know it is not always good to buy cheap parts which was the case on this car. I bought the cheapest cam position sensor sold on ebay so after a no voltage test as you outlined in this video I returned it and ordered the next more expensive one from a different manufacturer. All a person can do is get money back for the bad part. It does not cover the agony of going to the next hours trying to troubleshoot the next potential problem that might cause the car not to start. On a 97 MB E320 this could be a number of items which all relate to no injector pulse or a no start condition. THe question arises what sensor triggers spark and which one triggers injector pulse. Is it the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor. Guess I will wait till the new sensor arrives to be sure. Next if this does not work I go to retest the crankshaft sensor which is also new and a bugger to get out. I have spark cause it runs if I put gas down the air inlet port to the engine. Have you run across a situation like this one? Thanks again for sharing your expertise. J
Can u show how u did the continuity test i dnt see how u conected the wires i only see u conected the negetive to battery but does not show the rest thx
2006 Impala LT 3.9. The sensor that is on my car is plastic( the part that goes into the hole on the engine).This is like the first one you showed on your video. It also has a small rubber grommet. When I put the sensor in the hole and tighten it, it's still a little wabbly. Will that affect it's performance? Awesome video. Thanks so much.
