I must say, I watched your other video on testing coil packs and you are the most clearest in dialog and graphical as I understand your every point, You are excellent at describing troubleshooting various automotive problems. Other's can take a lesson from you.Vinnie in Cincinnati
Except his test is incomplete. Testing 12V on one wire in the harness tests only a half of the 2-pin connector. What about the other wire? Also, the injector itself has more into it than just the coil. This is electro valve, it has electrical part and mechanical part - what if electrical part is good but the mechanical part is leaking or clogged? This is not a valid test.
PszemoI resort to step three of your free tutorial in which you take a mechanic stethoscope and put it to the actual injector itself while listening for a clicking noise.
@@PszemoI that test does not show the variable pulse signals to the injector from the engine management code - these pulses are variable to meet most engine operating condition, the inner fuel circuit can mechanically comprimised in the flow through the injector - each one should be removed and inspected and cleaned by energizing them intermittently and observing the spray and flow pattern
Since most ppl are learning this for the first time on here I had to drop you a message and thank you for a very understandable video. If someone isn't able to keep up with you then they really should just get someone else to do the work. Shoot, I watched this @1.5x and the instructions were perfectly clear.
For our 4th Gen Maximas, the highest point of failure of the fuel injectors is the pintle caps and that can only be confirmed by visual inspection or fuel dumping into the affected cylinder(s). Fuel dumping kills the Cat(s) systems and causes more major damage over time. At the age and mileage of these cars, as preventative medicine, it's a good idea to replace them all or have them rebuilt by a reputable shop. There are also output tests that help identify a Fuel Injector or more that isn't balanced with the others. If the output is balanced across all six fuel injectors, the engine will be the smoothest at idle. The resistance test only confirms that the Injector active component is within range. The pintle cap disperses the spray in the right flow, PPM and pattern.
2.5 liter Nissan multimeter resistance spec is 12.1-12.9. Mine were 13.5 ohms across the board. Doesn't start at all despite spark and compression and fuel pressure across the board. Was only getting a dribble of fuel through the injectors. Checked resistance of a part at an auto parts store, it was 12.4 ohms.
First thing to do before all this, is CHECK YOUR SPARK PLUGS. Pull out one plug wire at a time and see if the engine changes at all. It should show rough engine and or chuggling effect. If you pull out the spark plug wire, and nothing changes back and forth a couple of times, SUSPECT THE PLUG FIRST. Find another spark plug and change the suspected Plug. Once done and then fire it up and pull out the wire and if it changes the engine RPM to a rough engine or chugging effect>> YOU FOUND THE CULPRIT. If it doesn't check your spark plug wire, when was it the last time it was changed? If it is OK, >> and that does not change anything you must check the compression on each cylinder. 1. Check spark plugs with engine running pulling each spark plug wire out to see if RPM changes. If none found do next #2>> 2. Do a full cylinder compression test with all plugs removed and wires. First stroke on all cylinders must be 40 PSI or higher. Max number of strokes is 10 to get final reading. If any of them off the scale or not show compression its either a blown head gasket between cylinders or stuck Valves or a hole in the piston or rings are worn out. If all OK go to #3 3. NOW YOU GO TO THE INJECTOR TESTING SEQUENCE. This is the proper way to do it. First listen to all injectors with that long screw driver or stethoscope, and the SOUND MUST BE ALL THE SAME. Each injector must sound the same as the previous one. Do all of them and make sure you mark it down on paper. Then shut the engine off, do each injector ohms test at 200. They should all be within a specific range. From low to high no more than 0.2-0.3 ohms. 4. Do not put power to the injector wires to check voltage. If it is bad >>> that check engine light will show up saying Check Engine. The computers today is pretty sensitive. 5. Then check each Injector for resistance. Each one should all be the same within specs not more than 0.2 in resistance. If OK go to #6 6. Check your coil. Do that test as well. IF OK go to #7 7. Check your fuel pressure and your fuel filter. A clogged fuel filter can also cause a problem. If Ok, then go to #8 Take car to mechanic. to check out the rest below Look at fuel pump which is inside the tank. 8. Have your mechanic >>Check your fuel pump itself. They sometimes go bad and cause missing problems and blow fuses. If none found then go to #9 9. Have mechanic check out your computer ECM. They sometimes go bad and shorts itself out on occasion. Wires do go bad inside the harnesses as well. So basically you can save a lot of troubleshooting money doing it yourself having some equipment with you handy at all times and find the culprit early doing these steps. If you discover you have a compression problem >>> THIS IS A MAJOR ENGINE JOB AND COSTS A LOT OF MONEY. You need to remove the valve covers need a valve cover gasket set, the Head, need a head gasket need to get the head machined out, do the valves both exhaust and intake, need new valve guides, and check the piston if you see a hole this means drop the oil pan drain the oil and get a new oil pan gasket and disconnect the connecting rod from the crank shaft, find another new piston put in new rings and a ring compressor to put it back on etc. and so forth. This is a major job itself. When you get to Number 8 You need a mechanic to do the rest. Good luck.
Yeah the injectors have power, but one could be leaking, or have a bad spray pattern, that could cause a misfire. Noid light would also be a fast way to see if you have power to the injectors
this only shows if the injectors opens and closes,but if it is clogged or leaking you still have problem,bad upstream O2 sensor,or vacuum leak send wrong signal and it can send more or less fuel even if you injectors are perfectly fine,working and getting the job done right is two different thing!!
The water reservoir broke and it sits over cylinder forth cylinder coil and harness, so now I have a forth cylinder misfire code. Would these same tests work for water damage?
If you don't have a long enough screw driver, you can use a wood dowel rod. I had a fault that my Torque code reader came up as P0205, which reads as "Injector fault". So as to be sure that it was indeed the injector, I swapped the suspect injector in cylinder 5 with the injector from cylinder 4. After a bit of a drive, my code reader came up P0204 which has me now convinced that it is indeed the injector. My mechanic tells me that as the engine heats up, the solenoid fails and the pin remains closed. He believes I should be able to drive it without damage even if it is missing and losing power. Gotta get to work tomorrow. A new (rebuilt) one has been ordered.
98 F150 4.6 256k mils Batt. Ing. off 12.33v Batt. Ing. on 12.03 7 conectors 12.02/12.01 1 connector 11.96 v 11.06 enough to cause my rough idling and stumbling acceleration ? all injectors resistance 15.01 ohms Codes P1000 B1398 B1302 Used service truck wires remaining from antenna external speaker safety lights ...I have back fire from exhaust .I have swapped used parts 3 × DPFE ,O2 Sensors cleaned EGR value and the entire system cleaned and checked plugs and wires, is the fuel presure test next
Great video. I have a miss firing so I bought the plugs. After replacing them I took it for a dive all perfect but as soon as I pulled into my drive way it started miss firing again strangely enough it dint do it as bad and it would do it for about 5 min and it will stop then it will run fine after a while it will do it again do you think is an injector going bad what’s your thoughts on that issue thanks,
I couldn't understand yet how to find a +ve terminal? as you measured 12.2 volts at the female side connector. What happen if I touch +ve probe of Multimeter next of the terminal you used? It give me same 12.2 volts?
Hi, tnx for your channel. I have a Nissan maxima 97 model. And it has not been on the road for like 3 years. Reacently me and my dad finally finished it up and got license plates on! My first car :) But, the car is not going right.. it's "jumping" and not going clean. it's almost like a kangaroo at times. What could it be?
When doing the screwdriver test I have one injector that is only half as loud as the others. It sounds to be running at the same rate as the others only not as strong. Is this normal? I ask because I am also getting a missfire code from the same cylinder.
So you check your injectors for resistance, is there a tolerance range. Say if your FSM says 2.7 ohms, and your reading 3.5, and they are all within that 3.5 range , plus or minus say 3.0 to 3.8 , acceptable ? The FSM dosent give a range. Just says 2.7. Im sure they all could not be the same.
Yea, it's common to have a range of some sorts. You can double check by verifying the injectors are firing. Just touch the end of a screwdriver to the injector and you should clearly hear each injector click on and off multiple times.
Sure Im hearing the injectors clicking on/off thats the easy part, The range should have something to do with how long they are on/off, wish there was a place that could answer this type of question. I find no place. Actually asked a rebuilder, he also had no answer. Thanks CarsNToys.....Nice Name
i have check the power wires in my ingectors and i discover one that has no power i used a noid ligth and it corroborated my discovery the wires are good or so they look to be what else can i do i can't find were the problem is please help
+Yo Man this can be done...but it recommended to use a NOID light. Which is a resistor light...that will pulse when the car is running and plugged into the injector plug.
@@CarsNToys Isn't it possible for gas to pass thru the injector into the combustion chamber when it's not called for? Similar to a needle and seat leaking in a carb.
My fuel injectors or flooding the engine will replacing them stop that I asked this question because it won't pass smog the engine light comes on intermittently . I have a 1993 Lexus ES 300
So this test is not enough to rule out a faulty fuel injector. A common cause of fuel injector malfunction includes blocked sprayer, which this video does not test. Still, resistance test is ok for testing internal electrical components
