Garage Built Hondas Hi, I have a 1988 Honda Civic .. the car was sitting for about a year without being driven because of a bad distributor.. Finally, I replaced the whole distributor and main relay which is OEM. Then, because the car was sitting for a year I also put in a brand new battery, did an oil change and put in fresh fuel in tank.. sufficiently enough to start the car.. still car has no spark and it appears no fuel pressure. This is what the mechanic told me over the phone because the car is located far away. Also, when he turns key to "on" position, the check engine light comes on but it doesn't shot off.. it remains on.... the car still has same ignition wires by NGK and same NGK spark plugs.. also when you crank it the technometer needle does not move at all..
Garage Built Hondas How do I test my 88 Honda Civic sedan ECU with a test light? is there a simple method? I wanna check and make sure is the ECU like you said... do you know where is the fuse for the ECU? thank you for your help
I can confirm what he says at 16:20 is correct, don’t use that small sock that comes with the fuel pump, you’ll have issues like hesitation, bad idle, engine dies at 1/4 - 1/2 tank. Replace that sock with a longer OE style sock and save yourself the stress.
Just changed my fuel tank on my 88 hatch and when my car is less than half a tank and I’m going up a slight hill my check engine light comes on and it seems like it wants to die. Do you think that stupid sock could be the culprit?
I admire your work ethic to make sure you're not wasting time. You went thru all the steps to make sure it was the fuel pump first instead of just throwing parts at it
+PURE Virginia Man, you have to!! Dropping the tank is a pain in the booty! And thanks man, I'm trying to set a good example for anyone attempting this in the future!
@@GarageBuiltHondas I'm late to this thread so hopefully you see this. If I have a 96 civic that doesn't require removing the gas tank but I also don't have the fuel pressure gauge., would you say it's worth a shot and just examining the fuel pump and sock, or should I actually buy or rent a fuel pressure gauge and make sure it is indeed the fuel pump. My car is experiencing different issues. Car will start but immediately dies at times, sometimes will not start at all without applying the gas, and sometimes will just work fine. It
Examining it won't tell you much especially if it still looks relatively clean. A pressure test is the easiest way to go and out if the pump is doing it's job.
I appreciate this info, I’ve been chasing around a stuttering/ bogging issue for a while since I’ve replaced the fuel pump with a whole unit, (different style sock) and my car dies at 1/4 tank
Did we ever figure out why this car was bogging out im having the same issue my distributor and fuel filter are new and I have a check engine light. I'm throwing a code 1 code 17 and a code 20
So I bought a 1990 EF hatch and the gas guage doesn't work and it starts sometimes runs smooth and stuff but randomly starts any help the car randomly starts
Just picked up a 91 sedan that is not getting fuel. Going to start down this path. I’m so glad you laid it out in a logical process. Crossing my fingers that it’s the relay and not the pump 😂.
My crx ECU fuse blows as soon as i turn the key to the ON position. i tried 2 ecu's and 2 diff main relays, blew a lot of 15a ecu fuses in the process, can't find out whats wrong...
I have to replace the fuel pump on my 90 EF HATCH but the whole process of dropping the gas tank makes me feel like I can't do it, or atleast not by myself. My gas tank consistently shows around a half tank but then acts like it's completely out of gas and I've had this issue for a year. The fuel pump recently started whining the other day when I got up to about 90 miles per hour on the freeway ever since I've been babying it and it doesn't wind anymore but I know the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
It's really not that hard. It's not intimidating at first but actually a really easy job. Try it, you'll be glad you replaced it and the peace of mind is worth it!
Was convinced my low fuel pressure was electrical since it seemed the problems only came after I blew a fuse. Finally caved and with the help of this vid, diagnosed that it was my FPR and Filter that were the problem. The gas I poured out of the filter literally looked like mud... My 91 HF runs like a dream now, thanks for the help man.
I have an 1990 Honda civic ex sedan with an engine swap of an 1994 Acura intgra Ls 1.8L ( B18B1 - motor GSR TRANS 5speed manual ) I replaced brand new idle air control valve fuel injectors Fuel filter fuel pump Fuel pump relay Fuel gauge sending unit Fuel tank ( tank strap holders ) Alternator Ngk-Spark plugs ( torque & gappe / 0.44-20ft lbs ) Ngk-Spark plug ignition coils ( top of spark plugs) ignition coil ( inside distributor) Oil / oil filter -5w-30 new starter wiring is OBD1 ECU P75 throttle body PGM-FI system mpfi swap I believe with all that being said I’m having trouble starting the car even tho with all those changes she cranks not starts I would appreciate anyone’s help really ❤
Just wanted to share my experience with the fuel pump relay on my 90 civic. It would start just fine and I would drive to the gas station. After filling up it would not start, no fuel pump sound. I would wait a few minutes, turn the key and it would fire right up. Inside the relay are two separate relays, each with its own plastic cover. When the relay got warm, one of those covers would warp, preventing the relay from closing!!! I removed the plastic cover and haven't had a problem since.
What is not clear here, is how or when a slightly lower oil pressure actually makes any difference in performance. Poor fuel injection pulsing I can see as reducing combustion pattern and efficiency - but at what point is that actually a problem? If 25 to 30, or 30 to 40 psi is consequential, are DIY fans cranking up to 60 or 85, in the belief that higher is better?
I had to watch the second part of the red hatch mistory. I will be honest. I haven't watched it yet but I was thinking fuel pressure. I'll watch it now and see if my guess was right from part one...
Seeking Help for 91 CRX Si: I installed a new OEM main relay thinking it would get my car to start up. But, it didn't. When the car is in the ON position (under normal operation), I can hear the main relay click, followed by a secondary click that primes the fuel pump. Right now I am only getting the first click as the CEL goes off, and no secondary click, with no noise coming from the fuel pump. Apparently the fuel pump is not engaging. I was able to test & verify that voltage is being delivered to the fuel pump. Someone told me it could be a grounding issue, so I checked the ground wire connected to the thermostat housing, which was securely connected. Any idea if a bad ignition switch could have a direct correlation to the fuel pump not activating? Or is a bad ignition switch and a bad fuel pump two separate issues that may co-exist without being directly related to each other? I do have a Honda Service Manual, which is helpful, but because of my limited experience, I am not able to adequately understand the aspects of diagnosing electrical fuel delivery issues. I have followed the service manual test step to determine if there is voltage (10V) available when I connect the multimeter's positive probe to the BLU/WHT wire and the negative probe to the BLK wire of the main relay harness connector, then turn the ignition switch to the START position. I am not getting the 10V that the service manual says I should get, but only getting 0.03V. Does this mean the ignition switch could be bad? The engine does crank, it just doesn't start. I hope the information I have provided is enough for someone who can respond with a possible solution. I am basically trying to find out the following: 1. Do I have a bad fuel pump only? 2. Do I have a bad fuel pump AND a bad ignition switch? 3. Are the above two issues directly related, or are separate issues that don't necessarily correlate? Any amount of information & knowledge passed along would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I applaud your patience and though instruction. You are a most vital resource in educating our next generation of repair enthusious.. Thank you for restoring my faith in online RU-vid turorials
Don't ever let it go to your head, at the same time try not to second guess your true naturally acquired talent. As we age some of us forget more than most people will ever know...
For the quick resoldering of the board, if cracks are showing, just dab a bit of flux on the spots, no need to add or use more solder which might flow across an adjacent area. At 8:45, the screw on top of the right 'Banjo' bolt is a pressure release, and should access to check line pressure without messing with either of the Banjo bolts which hold the lines into place, an easier and less compromising method if a fitting is available.
My 95 honda civic does the one click with the CEL coming on once then turns off but it only clicks once does this mean that the main fuel relay is bad. Someone PLZ confirm ! Im going crazy !!! My civic is a d15b7, 5MT,
If you run around all the time on an empty tank your fuel pump will be running hot and most likely will fail sooner. I try and run at least a 1/4 tank of fuel to help cool the pump.
Facts! I keep mine between 1/4-1/2 at the minimum. I have a 94 Civic....$12 will take me from empty to half a tank and if I'm ever strapped and can't put at least $10 in it, I sit my ass down lol
I just replaced my fuel pump and followed your other video showing us how to and now new pump is not priming and check engine light will not turn off cranks but won't start,I am getting voltage just not sure how much also got a new main relay
The new aftermarket relay i bought was junk. I bought a fuel pressure gauge. It mounts above the filter. I think i bought the adapter from glow shift.Mini gauge was from summit.
Wouldn't you want to test the fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail? That would eliminate all possibilities of a clogged or faulty rail and injector o-ring failure?
You understood this wasn't even his car right? Don't try to knock this dude; cause he clearly knows what the fuck he is doing and I'm not just basing that off of this one video.
@GarageBuiltHondas replaced the fuel main relay. Ignition switch and fuel filter. Fuel pressure jumps to 50 when pump primes but immediately decreases back down to 10 after 1-2 secs. So can't get it to start. I checked each spark plug inlet for leaking injectors into cylinders, and nothing. If I pinch the fuel return line on the regulator, the pressure jumps up to above 80, and the fuel pump makes strange noises but still goes back down to 10. That seem like the fuel pump not holding pressure or something else?
@ronniecatalano5246 yes you can. Off the fuel filter. But make sure the pump is actually priming as it should , when turning key to first click/accessory.
You see when someone worked on a car before and notice the street hurry to patch and go style, 😎I'm learning, I changed a lot of things in my Son's 1992 civic" I called him today to finally tell him that it might be the Gas pump and filter,He bought another vehicle to then sell the civic very cheap,,like giving it away, but I took it home , It is a nice looking civic,,And watching your video, Im sure that is the problem.
It happens a ton on these cars. Cheap cars a lot of times equals owners who can't afford much. I get it, but it's not fun having to fix the issues sometimes.
I b swapped my ef with a conversion harness from mono tech. I was teaching someone to drive manual and they stalled. It wouldn’t turn on until after 2-4 key turns and giving it a bit of gas. Code 16 came up then went into limp mode, I turned it off then back on and the code was gone. It’s happened a few times. Mostly when running hot but never becomes a constant issue where I can’t drive the car. It always “goes back to normal”
Glad I watched this. I just bought a 1990 Civic STD and it's a little boggy sometimes while driving and if I bring the rpms up while sitting still it kinda fluctuates and sounds like it's struggling. I know what I'm doing Saturday...
hi,GBH I have a problem similar with with this 90' honda on my 91' lx and will be going for a new fuel pump would you happen to remember the brand you bought or a brand you recommend to replace the old existing pump,and also are you any other social med. sites
So I was looking up the location of the pcv for my car nd this video popped up. Maybe u could help me. I have a 89 civic hatchback dx with a d15b2 motor. Tryna smog my car but it wont pass. It runs rich at 15 mph but it passes at 25 mph. Already changes the coolant sensor nd thermostat but that didnt seem to work. Now my friend is thinking it could be the pcv valve
I don't know sorry. In Texas all EF's don't require smog anymore so I don't ever encounter having to worry about those issues. May want to start with a tune up and possibly a new cat.
hey, brilliant video, my civic b16a1, have been stoped for 15 years, and cant make the engine run (yet), can i measure the fuel pressure without having the car running?
@@GarageBuiltHondas ok, any way dont ear the fuel Pump working, gonna mesure volts and then Change fuel pump. Thx for the vídeo, great tutorial, and huge tips. Up, yp
Amazing video, really all your content has been a game changer. I’m new to the world of car enthusiasts and just got an 88 ED hatch and your videos have already helped me a ton! Out of curiosity- do you have recommendations for which fuel pump works best for a 4th gen civic?? 🙏🏽💯👍🏽
I'm confused before I clicked on the video the title said something like "figured out the stuttering problem" and then I clicked on it and the title changed. It's done this twice
Im having the samw problem it boggs like it feels like its not getting any gas ive replaced injectors fuel filter wires and plugs could it be my fuel pump?
good evening Sir, I have 1989 honda civic lx sedan 1.5 engine with dual points injection, I replaced my distributor, replaced both injectors primary and secondary, replaced sparkplug, cables, fuel filter, delphi fuel pump with the right sock, main fuel pump relay, the car runs good but suddenly spotting or skipping plus loose it power, specially when you are at light, the engine pistons compression is at 140 pounds are the cylinder, I need help figure out what is happening with my car. thank you for your great videos
Always great seeing your videos buddy. You are sharp my friend!! How did you gain your knowledge? I had someone do a head gasket on my 91 Si Tahitian Green, getting it back on the road. It was awesome the last few days. The shop also changed the fuel pump and relay so I thought I would be ok. Took it out to go to some body shops as my car needs a driver's side passenger. I pulled into the garage and parked. I decided I wanted to move the car and put the key in the ignition. All the lights went on but it would not turn over. Back to the drawing board buddy! Ugh!
The front driver's side fender and outdoor rear view mirror is cracked. I got the mirror from ebay and am looking for the fender now. I see that there are a lot of after market ones out there.
Hi there, I have 89 Civic Ef. My problem is when the fuel tank is full, it run fine. But, when fuel inside the tank drop almost empty( about quarter ) it doest run.. It's like no fuel pump into the engine. I bring it to a mechanic, even they can't solve the problem. Any suggestions.? Tq.
The fuel pump strainer is either the incorrect one or isn't in the pump anymore. Common issue is people put the wrong one on the pump when replacing it.
Hey Jon, when you go to read the vacuum line off pressure, it's usually a good idea to pinch off the end of the disconnected hose so you're only reading the difference from the fuel pressure regulator and so your idle isn't effected too much by the vacuum leak.
The Honda/Helm's service manual for EK Civics says to disconnect and pinch/clamp the hose when comparing readings. Makes sense since the FPR adjusts fuel pressure based on vacuum and not engine speed, so it's not really necessary to create a vacuum leak, intentional or not. The DC Integra service manual says the same thing, but it might be different for earlier Hondas. Good video nonetheless.
inspyral02 Well sh*t, maybe I've been doing it wrong the whole time. I was taught this way a long time ago and have used it ever since. Next time I test another one I'll try it. Might not be for a while, it had been years since I last tested fuel pressure.
I don't think it would actually have much of an effect on the fuel pressure readings, at least on late model Hondas. It's probably more about preventing unnecessary wear and tear from running with that small vacuum leak, especially since the FPR doesn't really care what RPM you're idling at. Here are the relevant pages from the EK/DC manuals: imgur.com/a/vSpce
When you pulled the fuel pump , it’s missing the rubber insert that sits under the pump and above the fuel pump bracket , the orientation is correct as that’s only way it can go on there is a simple that strainer aka the sock sits in .
Well unless the strainer is not oem I suppose could be the wrong orientation like you mentioned . I just replaced my fuel pump and strainer on my 88 crx si as it was bogging and stalling when coming to a stop . Turned out to be a bad fuel pump strainer was wrong one plus it was not attached properly , pump was good but replaced with a new one since I was in there and a new oem strainer. Also mine had a drain plug on the fuel tank so helped a lot and got a lot of sediments and deposits out .
I've noticed the aftermarket fuel pumps don't fit well usually with the rubber insert unfortunately and it's pretty irritating. I've had luck with a handful of aftermarket ones doing just fine though thankfully too! I wish all tank had the drain nut on the bottom.
Wow very informative! best content I have seen in awhile! I watch plenty of repairs on different vehicles but, Never seen a video so informative and straight to the point. definitely subscribing and don't know why this is the first time for me seeing your work. highly impressed!
What if I changed the fuel pump but now the car just dies All grounds are good and everything sometimes it just cranks and cranks until it finally starts
Hi Jon, thank you so much for these videos - they're super helpful! Can you let me know the exact make and model fuel pump that you put in? Have you liked the performance from them?
I prefer this setup now over any others. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBI5C02/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jrw2018-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00MBI5C02&linkId=c0f03133167ad6e6e48eb3281280d6f5
+Kyle Govan I think I'll get one for that price! It'll be a good tool to have in case I ever want to use one. I rarely use them and the rental option is nice.
Garage Built Hondas. Yeah I think it's worth it. You don't know when you'll need it and when you do you might not have the $ for the rental. Hypothetically.
Thanks for this video! I checked my fuel pump pressure and it read at around 28 psi. Disconnecting the regulator hose and the psi went to 38 psi. Would this be the reason for stumbling during acceleration in my 90 civic ex with only 90xxx miles?
@@GarageBuiltHondas so I replaced my fuel pump, regulator, filter, relay and tank and i still have only 28psi. Any idea why? Its running like I didn't replace anything.
Thanks for the inf my friend also my car dies yesterday check main relay and smell bad I change it and the car dozens start the check power to the black and yellow wire no power take the fp out test it direct to batt and run super fast the n car dozen crank no more the green ligh key show out one's in a while I really don't now what else to do I swap ecu and still the same problem do u have any suggestions for me I will appreciate this its crazy issue
The only thing that I wish u would of done is, from the beginning of anything I really want u to show the symptoms of what that fuel pump was doing before u change the fuel pump out :(
I have same problem on my 1990 Ef I replaced pump and fpr but still have same problem... stumbling on acceleration past 50% throttle.. ecu bad maybe ? Or injectors on dual point system . Fuel pressure read at 44psi with fpr vacuum line detached any thoughts ??
@@GarageBuiltHondas recently did spark plugs, distributor, starter and I had a shop recently put on a new cat and ever since then car ran good for about a week and then it died on freeway with check engine light turning on while power was lost then stalled. The car still runs but it will eventually die while idling after reaching operating temp
I having issues with my fuel pump not priming it was and now it doesn’t and I change the main relay for a new one and it worked and agin it stop priming ?
Garage Built Hondas and the bumper filler from a sedan can be cut to fit the hatch? Or just the hatch will fit? Mine a little bend and I wanted to change it, but can't find a Hatchback here in Mexico in good condition
Need help my car stalls when it’s about reach normal temperature. I changed fuel filter , changed spark plug, changed fuel pump relay, when I switch on I hear fuel pump prime, clean the injectors, adjusted the valves, when the car stalls after 20 seconds I start it it’s fine then stalls again after few minuites. I’ll be checking fuel pressure soon. I’ll keep you update on that also I ordered new ignition coil I’ll also update you on that. The compression are all good .
Help... I just put an Ultra Street intake mani but it stumbles horrible on low rpm's after a hard pull... Some say bad injectors, others say I need bigger injectors... what fuel pressure should I have? My pump is a 255 Walbro
Once you turn the key and the pump kicks on, you're gauge should automatically tell you where it's sitting. It'll give you an idea on how the pump is doing.
Does it matter how much LPH the new fuel pump has? Like mine is fucked up i guess on my 99 integra type r. Which do you recommend? And whats the minimum LPH?
Any new replacement will be fine. I've been using some Denso ones from autozone lately and finding thr ones with a whole new assembly. You could upgrade to a Walbro which is one of the best. The lph won't matter, your ecu, rail, injectors, and regulator will only allow the proper amount. The larger lph that some support is only if you upgrade and need the additional fuel, then your pump csn support the demand.
Do you have to soldier all fuel pumps? When you replace them because I don't know how to soldier. Is there a fuel pump I can buy that I don't have to soldier plug in?
I changed fuel pump with new, replaced the relay under dash, replaced fuel filter and still am having it die intermittently and then not starting after. Relay clicks and fuel pump hums. Any ideas?
My fuel pressure is good, but if I turn the key on ON and don’t start it, the pump primes to about 35psi but immediately looses it and drop to 0. Is that normal?
I put a new fuel pump not too long ago and it still does the same thing as you're describing where you give it gas and it kind of boggles and it doesn't turn off or stop it just you let go of the gas and then you push it again and it's back to normal what do you think it is do I need to put another fuel pump on there maybe the one I bought is defective
I'm having the same problem with bogging down at more than 50 percent throttle. My motor is a d15b2 dpfi. I plan on doing a d16z6 swap but I'm just trying to get my current motor to run right first so that I can drive the car and move it if need be. I pulled my O2 and it was white. Will try a fuel filter and pump replacement since the z6 will need them anyways. My relay seems fine and my pump primes, but I haven't tested the voltage yet.
I'm having issues with my car now haha Just changed the battery and now after an humid day it won't start... It's freshly built too!! Imma check it up when it gets hotter.
