How to test lawn mower key switch 

have fun reconnecting that switch

Thanks for your service in the Nam.

+Frank From Upstate NY I want to say that the most common 5 pole you get at home depot or lowes will work, BUT you really need to make sure the letters on the terminals of your old switch are in the same location as your new switch. If they are not correct it could potentially burn out your ignition coil and stuff.

So

Nvm it’s B+R+L in manual so I’ll go from there I’m not sure what the R stands for as neither of your descriptions show me

tip072

I have yet to run into a problem with a new one. The odds of you having a slightly different key switch than my video and could have different results is more likely… unless of course you know it’s identical to the one in my video.

@@metalinmotionshop if you have an email I can email you a picture of what the switch looks like

Usually so long as B - S are connected you engine will start. Then to shut off your engine you need G-M connected. Usually L is just for lights and maybe sometime accessories. Sometime that accessory is the fuel solenoid on the carb. So long as it's clicking when your key goes from off to on ( not cranking) you should be good.

Chris Bridges - On some switches (most) you must turn the key back to the light position of the key switch to turn your lights on. When starting your mower you momentarily pass through the “lights on” section of the switch, thats probably why they’re temporarily coming on. I have torn them apart and cleaned the contacts and the little copper wipers inside but its a little bit of a pain.

The little wiper that connects the B + L is either burned, bent or dirty. Some fine sand paper and contact cleaner can usually fix it.

Send me your model and serial number and ill see if i can find the schematic. In short, yes you need the G connected at the key switch. Usually this only has to do with turning your mower off but i would to check the schematic to be sure.

Model No. 122607 Type 0176E1 Code 010312FA. It's a Castlegarden ride on mower with a 6hp Briggs and Stratton single cylinder OHV engine. Hope that helps. I've checked all the safety switches and they're all good. I've checked the ignition key and it's good. I've replaced the faulty solenoid with a new one which I also tested so I know that's good. As I say, when the kill switch is disconnected I get a spark at the plug and can fire the engine up but can't shut it down without earthing out the magneto. The only other thing I can think of that might be causing a problem is if there's a fault with the small circuit board which is built into the wiring system. I'm not sure exactly what this does but it's there for a purpose. I'm really puzzeld by this problem and hope you can help.

Ok. So that model number is the engine model #. There should be another model number on mower itself. Usually under or in the rear fender wells or back of mower. Lets assume you don’t have some fancy electronic module on there. If your G is disconnected from the keyswitch and you are still having to disconnect it at the magneto then you definitely have a problem with the circuit and it not the key switch. Most mowers have that ground wire going through a blade switch and a seat switch and sometimes the brake switch. Like if you have the blades on and get off the mower it will die. Assuming your switch are good( which you tested) that black wire is rubbing the frame or something metal to ground it out. I would trace that black wire back from the magneto to the key. You could check for continuity to it at the magneto to battery ground and the tug and move the wiring harness around and see if you lose continuity( make sure to disconnect it from magneto).

Some safety switches pigtails have a spring inside that when disconnected the spring ground the engine to prevent it from starting. Also check for dirt in the pigtail themselves as I have seen them touching another through the grease and grime.

Let me know what you find.

if it doesnt have a continuity test you can set it to 200ohm resistance and just watch to see if the numbers on the meter rise.. if it stays at 0 there is no continuity.

It doesn't really matter if you're starting from scratch, but to help tracing any of them, then colors are very helpful

i know this is 5yrs ago but my craftsman has a plastic housing that pops up from underneath, unplug harness and set.

how to replace switch for Xmarks 2007 lawnmower

A1

Send me your model number and Ill try and look it up.

It could happen, but as long as there is no high resistance it should work ok

safety switch under the seat. likely cause..

+Jorge duarte usually those wires are the charging stator wires that either plug to the existing wire harness connector on the mower wiring harness or to regulator/rectifier box on the side of the engine.

metalinmotionshop oh ok thanks

Those 2 wires are your charging system

Bad solenoid

Yes, but so can the other safety switches that are on that same circuit. Like the brake, seat, and blade switches. It all depends on where your key is turned when the fuse blows, as to where to start looking.

I figured out my starter cable was touching the block

Thanks

Are you stupid?

Ffffffffffffffffuck off

lol if it doesn't start after about 10 seconds tops then you need to let the starter battery cables etc cool downdon't ever keep cranking on it because if its not starting then there's obviously something else wrong and cranking on it is going to do more damage than good

+Bluegill20 sure you didnt get your starter and ignition mixt?