Thanks for the wiring diagram. That helped out tremendously! Our washer just started doing the clicking as if trying to lock. Though it was already locked. And the display wasn't recognizing it being locked. So there was no indication stating it was locked. I took the lid off, found the switch, tested it at the connector, and found it wasn't reading right. Instead of buying a new locking device, I opened the switch up to find the "legs" were dirty. Cleaned them off with some alcohol and a q-tip. Its been running just fine since. Saved $160 bucks on a part that just needed to be cleaned. Thanks again.
Just FYI, the White and the Green Wires are the Reed Switch Wires. Put an Ohm on those 2 Wires and it should show "Open", hover a Magent around the door lock and it should show a "Short".
This is what he said: Time frame 1:53. Open, close. locked ,unlock. Open=locked. close=unlocked. And open door is a locked door. A close door is an unlocked door. If you are not confused you must be on drugs.
what about if the lid is open or shut, I have been having problems and Iv'e determined that it is the reed switch, It would have been nice to be able to test that too without pulling the machine apart. Since my reed switch is broken, i'm not sure if it is by default connected when the lid is closed or open with the lid is closed, I think you would be able to find out by connecting the white wire with the green wire and opening and then closing the lid, it should turn off and on.
Sam Sowards I have a lid switch dc34-00025a which I opened but there are two metal bars which fell off and I can't figure out where they fell from. Can you please assist me to know there position in the switch
How do I bypass this turd all together so my machine will work without it? I live alone. No kids over, ever. I was expecting 2 wires id splice or something I could trick with a magnet when I ripped it out. I hate smart sensor bull crap. I'm gna find an old late 70s GE w dials switches. The kind that never die.
This really doesn't help at all as the first two points that you tested (brown and black wires) are wired straight to the locks Actuator motor. There is also a chip on the motherboard that controls the power sent to that motor,and if that chip fails no power will be sent to the motor. This is the issue I am dealing with now and I am 90% certain the power chip on the board has poped as there is a bunch of brown crap trapped in the gel around one of the chips where the lid lock connects to the motherboard.
