How to Test Vehicle AC/Heat Blower motor. When your blower motor goes bad you will not get AC or Heat to blow inside of your vehicle, you will also not be able to defrost your windows.
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Very helpful video. My fan wasn’t working, I was getting volts before and after Resistor/Relay thinking fan was toast. Did this fan test and it worked… Glad i didn’t buy a new fan. I was a lil confused why everything worked but Put everything back together. Maybe loose connections or there was a few dozen pine needles in the fan. Ty
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Thanks man; sadly your test proved my blower motor was bad in my 08 Nissan Titan. With that said with my military discount applied a new one cost me $90.51 from O’Reilly’s auto parts.
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help. Yea it's always Nice to get a discount can help out a Lot .Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
If you get the blower fan without the actual plastic fan part, just the motor they are closer to 30 bucks, then you just swap the old plastic fan on the new motor. a little bit more work, buck saves you about 50 bucks. or in my case, saves me about 100 haha
Did your fan motor have two or three connections? The rear blower motor my wife’s Nissan NV 3500 has a blower motor with three connections. Skinny connection goes directly to the fan speed switch which is actually a rheostat.
Thanks for the help , I did this with my fan to eliminate the fan not being my issue, I then moved back to the resistor it was that . Water damage I think from humidity to cold (-30/-40 for a week 😅)
You did prove that the blower was good, however from what I have read and studied on the web concerning auto electronics, you should test the fan while it is connected to its connector, "very important with the circuit ON", then "back probe" the connector, of the blower, with a DVOM "digital volt ohmmeter" One end of the DVOM the "black lead" connected to a good ground, ideally, the battery negative terminal, then "very important" with the circuit ON, you now place the red probe of the DVOM on the positive feed to the blower, and read the voltage. If the voltage is low, like say 6 volts, way less than the battery source voltage, then you have a voltage drop "resistance from corrosion or whatever" on the positive side of the circuit, from corrosion, loose connection, etc. If the voltage reads a normal 12 volts same as the battery source voltage, then place your DVOM red probe "back probing again", on the negative blower terminal, it should "ideally" read "zero volts" or .very close to zero like .5v 5 tenths of a volt or less, if it is higher than .5v you have a voltage drop "resistance corrosion or whatever" on the ground side of the circuit, because of a bad ground "resistance" like a loose connection, corrosion, etc. So bottom line, you just can't say that the problem is definitely the switch on your dashboard is the issue, it could be, but it also may be from resistance as explained above. What you did was prove that the blower does work. You did not find out why it doesn't work when it has power in the circuit, and you guessed and concluded, that the switch on the dash of the car was the problem. HTH
You need to run it through an ammeter to see how many amps it's drawing. When the motor is failing it draws more amps and burns out the resistor. You'll just keep replacing resistors one after another with a failing motor that is drawing too many amps.
Yes this test the guy did in video is good but does not prove 100% your motor is bad mine works but when we amp tested it. It was way to high causing resisters an the wire harness connectors to slowly burn so u must amp test to truly 100% know
IAM having a issue my ford ranger 2.3l 1994 runs great but the moment I turn on acthe engine dies...it will run perfect with AC on if I manually disconnect the heater motor...but as soon as I plug the heater motor it kills the engine...I also noticed that before it got this bad it was blowing fewer air through vents. ..could heater motor be causing a short circuit?
Electrical stuff is not my forte. Can I use just any ol' wire I find in the garage or should it be above a certain gauge? Great vid, checked our your other vids, too. Great work
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Thanks, check your fuses if not bad, then could be your blower resistor or a problem with you climate control panel if not blowing at all. Also check your power plug to blower to be sure your geting power to it.
Not bad way to do it but you should have some small alegater clips with rubber coatings on them to clip on the terminals instead of just sticking the wires in. A little safer.
Thanks for watching, also you should check your fuse that goes to your blower to be sure it's not blown, sometimes that can be your problem and not your blower. Please Subscribe and share if haven't already and check out my other helpful videos.
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Does it matter which wire touches which prong inside the housing for the blower? Also, how do I find the video you talked about for taking the blower out of the car?
Your blower is under your passenger side dash inside your car or truck should be about 3 or 4 screws holding it up and a power cord to unplug. Shouldn't matter. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Hi, thank you for the info. I was wondering if you could direct me to what the issue could be for my 2011 Chevy traverse. My ac and heat works as it should. It blows in the back but it won't blow in the front, no matter what I switch it to. There was a time that it did work then it didn't work, but would occasionally kick on. Now it doesn't. What should I check to be to figure out the problem? I also should tell you, although I do not know if this is part of problem of a separate one. My car speakers work as they should in the back but in the front, the ones on the door panels, go back and forth. The drivers side will work then it will switch and the passengers side will work. Back and forth. Not sure if these 2 issue are related? Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi sounds like u have a bad front blower motor or you have a bad blender door actuator. I Have a video up showing it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MULbAWfc7ko.html. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Thank you! It was my blower motor. I was able to replace it myself. I was wondering if you know anything about after market sound systems? When I bought my 2011 Chevy traverse it came with the brand Dual after market radio. Well, the speaker on my driver's side door and front passengers side door cut in and out. They both still work but one will work then it will cut out and the other one will start working. It's been going back and forth like this for a little while now. Do you happen to know what the problem could be?
@@brittaneypatriciaann1004 I'm betting wires are touching, probably installed with just electrical tape. Or the speakers are so old they are failing(corrosion/chipmunks-mice)
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share and hit the bell if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Your welcome, Thanks for watching and commenting glad could help.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Thank you! I used your method and tested that my blower does work. So then I narrowed it to the blower control dial as the possible issue. Upon further examination, I found that the dial had a broken plastic piece inside that made it unable to rotate the switch behind it. So I used a screwdriver to move the rotating switch -- my blower and AC turned back on! If I hadn't tested my blower using your quick method, I would not have moved immediately onto the control dial as the problem.
Another thing to note, if your high works but your low doesn't your resister may have gone out, which usually means your blower fan needs replacing as well.
If it doesn’t work at all(with good fuses) is it the blower motor being bad itself or also the resistor? My mk4 gti fans randomly stopped working after I let it warm up(everything went dead on the climate control) including the lights for it…
@@btbdesire4675 could be, though with that many issues I'd check the back of the climate control unit. What happened with mine is the blower motor went bad, caused increased draw at the regulator, regulator goes bad, and then the contacts at the back of the climate control unit burnt out. In which case you need to replace all three, you might be able to rebuild the contacts at the back of the unit though.
That should only effect the fan controls though, if the entire unit is kill it's more likely that the climate control unit went bad, especially if it's new enough to have computer chips. The cheaper thing to rest first though is power, make sure the power is arriving at the unit, if it is, then you need to replace most likely. If there is no power, you get to have fun tracing wires
@@HmmWelp tested the blower fans and they have power, the resistor pack tested good and gave the exact outputs it should. Any other ideas before I go tearing into my wiring? Is there any other fuses other than 5 and 25? A relay or something else
Couldn't you just look under the glove box after removed and turn on ur ac to see if blower motor is running? Or does it need to be fully out and tested?
So I got a 94 Chevy c1500. It's not the AC controls. When you try to press or change the fan speed you can hear a loud click behind the glove box. I still don't get air at all. Is it my blower motor? Or is is fuse? relay?
did you touch both the positive and negative to the blower motor, or just the positive? the picture cut off at the bottom, so i couldn't see you make the connection.
Thanks for watching yes I touched both Postive and negative , 1 on each prong in the blower. Please Subscribe and share if haven't already and check out my other helpful videos
Is is supposed to spark while I'm testing the blower? I did what you did and when I go to touch the inside the motor kicks on but it also make a spark. Almost as if I'm touching the 2 wires. I can assure you I'm not touching the 2 wires
Yes sometimes it can spark, once you see that it works I wouldn't keep testing it. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
You shouldn't have to take the blower motor out to test it. The problem can also be intermittent in the blower motor, or what's called a "dead spot", and would have to be replaced.
Looks from here like the motor bearings are a little stiff or bad. Fan didn't coast to a stop, it pretty much stopped like it had brakes. Could be the bearing is worn.
These little motors are feisty as all get out, i was testing one one time out of the housing and the damn thing flew out of my hands,lol, after that test i realized why when you turn your blower motor if you look at your electrical gauge in your car that thing goes way down,they sure suck a lot of power.
It could also be the resistor. Need a longer video checking everything, from the fuse/s first, the blower motor (here), the resistor, and finally the control panel. 👍
Do you know where the fuses are? I'm troubleshooting my problem and already replaced resistor and tried a new blower motor before that. Now I'm gonna test my motor to make sure it's not the issue and then I really want to figure out if it's a fuse of some kind before I take it to my mechanic to see what else could be.
A blower motor also has a resistance that needs to be tested, if the resistance is not checked the fan motor can still be bad. Bad Fans can draw too much current!!! research before you make a video Like this.
Thanks for watching if you have air coming out then your blower is working, and you should check to make sure you have enough fluid in your radiator, if no air comes out then check fuse, and if that's good most likely u have a bad blower. Please Subscribe and share if haven't already and check out my other helpful videos.
Wow.... i did exactly the SAME steps / except view fuse "good" - no meter..... & when i popped the fuse out to ✔...it fell below fuse box.... used plastic straw ... that put it to the bottom engine cover .... a few twisted-rusted cover bolts off & the Rain started... moved inside garage ..o view
I having a issue with it as well when I turn on the ac and fan it would only come on at high speeds at least 10 and up, now neither the ac or fan blows anything at all
Sound like you have a bad blower motor resistor located close to your blower motor, under your passenger side dash. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
When I select floor, the blower turns off. Works on other settings. I put another selector in, it did the same. Goes from cold to hot.. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you have a problem with your climate control panel, may need to be changed. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Resistor/transistor issue. control panels don’t really fail unless they get beat and punched on or liquid/moisture damage. Blower motors and resistors are the most common cause of low air or no air failures.
@@np5589 Thanks.. I know it's been 2 years..lol, but I parked on it, back at it with the same issue. I changed the resistor, still the same. I did notice the pigtail connector melted, ordered another one which will be in today. I thought my evaporator may be blocked, but I reversed polarity on my blower motor, & airflow picked up, but not enough, some air did come through, but very weak. If replacing the connector for the resistor does nothing, what are the chances that the blower motor is not spinning fast enough? It's only maybe 5 years old(the blower motor). There isn't very many other options left, so it has to be the pigtail connector or the blower motor itself is burning out. Or some wiring further down the blower motor resistor connector is having an issue. Would connecting it to a battery like in this video give me full speed of the blower motor? It seems like it's fine at this point..
Wrong. Sometimes fans will turn on and still be bad. If the blower motor still runs but turns on and off seemingly when you hit a bump or put it in park or drive then the motor could also be bad and start a fire. Do not trust them. Test the power going to the blower motor first using a volt meter while fan is on high seting. If good then the blower motor is likely bad even if it turns on. The problem is, the blower motor is creating to much resistance in itself and causing heat in the motor and or wire harness. This can cause a fire. Do yourself a favor and get the right parts. Also with the volt meter go ahead and check your control panel for the correct 12 volts coming out to your whole system. Worth the piece of mind.
What do I do if when I turn the car on and then I try to turn the heat/air on and nothing shows up on the screen,and nothing blows out, radio works, Ik it’s like been 4 years but I need help.
Have a 2012 dodge avenger with a couple AC/HEAT problems. Pros: Heat and AC work fine. Meaning it blows nice and hot and nice and cold. The problem is that if the ac is on...no matter if it's on low or full blast the ac will not blow anything unless you are going 45 plus and that goes the same for the heat as well. So if its 100 degrees out and I'm in the city going 30 and have several stop lights I will never feel the ac no matter if it's on full blast. It does blow a little when I'm driving just doesnt match the setting whatsoever unless like I said if I'm on the highway...it will completely stop blowing hot or cold air when you idle or come to a stop. Same problem for ac and heat. That goes the same way in the winter when I want the heat to be working. Any solutions? The other problem is I have knocking on the passenger side from the glove box. Any solutions for that as well?
Thanks for watching and commenting you could have a alternator problem, may not be puting out enough power u can get it tested at your local auto parts store
@@Flashback502 well before i tried again yesterday something just told me to try a new resistor since i had planned on getting a new one with a new blower motor and when i replaced the resistor the motor started working again
Thanks for watching yes sounds like you have a problem with your blower motor. Probably should replace it. Please Subscribe and share if haven't already and check out my other helpful videos.
I have a 99 mitsubi Montero sports I put a new really and the heatestill don't work I can hook a ground waire to the ground wire on the fan wire and it runs real fast
Please can anyone help me out I have change my blower in Range Rover sport HSE 2008 and the blower stop working after two weeks and also water coming out from passenger side of the car
Sounds like it's your blower resistor that's bad not your blower motor. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
hi. i bought a new blower but delaying to install it. i'd The new blower's workiing fine when i bought it. Now when i try to install it, it's not working. what's the problem?
Check you fuses and also could be climate control panel or resister.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Every time I touched motor terminals a spark occurred like if wires touched. Wires were not touching. When my heat stopped working I also smelled the burning smell
When mine went out there was a burning smell that was a plastic/chemical burn smell and the fan stopped. I assume the fan burnt out. Do you think that’s the most likely cause?
Yes most likely it's burnt out but make sure you check the blower fuse first, should be in fuse panel, It could have blown. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
I checked the fuse and the relay following a video I found that said if I turn the car and have the heat on, that if it’s the fuse, I should be able to wiggle them (in my case it was 23 under the head and 24 inside my 1997 f150) and it should blow air a little. I tried that and it didn’t. And since you said it’s probably the heater blower motor burnt out, I’m just gonna get one at my local junk yard for $20 and put it on. For anyone with a 1997 f150 it’s located inside the truck on the passenger side. Maybe this comment will save people some trouble of looking for the fuse and all that. Thanks for the fast response. Subscribed 👍🏼
Thanks for watching, if fuse not blown then most likely it's the blower, but before buying a new one, I would test it. Please subscribe and share if haven't already and check out my other helpful videos.
Could have a bad climate control panel, blower going out or electrical problem. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Thanks for watching if air comes out then your blower is working, you may want to check your fluid level in your radiator if it's to low then you want get heat if not may be your heater coil. Please Subscribe and share if haven't already and check out my other helpful videos.
Sounds like Bad climate control panel or electrical problem.Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Yes that will rule out if power is getting to it our not, if not could be blown fuse. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
If it's your blower then you may have a short or something wrong with your climate controls. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
Normal if resistor is bad will still work on high if doesn't work at all most likely blower or fuse. Please subscribe & like and share if haven't already and check out our other helpful videos
