How to Test Your Motorcycle’s Stator and Regulator Rectifier | The Shop Manual 

What about the magnet.

@RevZilla , maybe you know what may be wrong? CBR600F4. Issues only at idle, none with higher RPMs. Measured resistance, 0,6-0,7 between terminals cold, 0,7-0,8 hot [does not exceed 0,1 for same terminals]. No continuity between terminals and ground hot or cold. Measured stator's output, all 3 wires. It is pretty steady - from 10V at 1k rpm going steadily upwards 10V at each 1k rpm, to 70V at 7k rpm. Same hot or cold. Seems ok? RR gives 14V when started cold [around 2,3k RPM]. On idle [1,4k rpm]: - goes to 13,5-14 [fluctuates] when hot. When lights ON, goes to 13,1, and then fluctuates between 12,9 to 13,5. - When ventilator kicks in [with lights off], drops to 12,9-13V; with lights on drops to 12,5 and sometimes lower, then starts dying and cuts out. This is extremely unpleasant at traffic lights when hot, cause it dies or dies when kicking in firs gear, and then it takes time to start and start moving [sometimes even does not start, i.e. starter runs but engine does not power on, like was flooded with gasoline...]. Several measurements show it takes 0,8-0,9 V for headlight [low beam], around 1V for ventilator. Is this ok? But it is slightly strange; if it generates 12V at 1200 rpm, it already undercharges the battery, not even compensating lights and ventilator. So naturally the battery charging shows around 12,5V at battery, as the electrical load uses battery's reserve. Is it supposed to be so low at low rpms? Run out of ideas, what may be wrong. If you have any ideas, will be very grateful :)

Can a person buy a higher output stator for an older motorcycle. I have a 1980 Suzuki GS 750L. So when adding ditch lights, the load on the stator won't burn it out.

Tell me bout it. I went through 3 stators in like 7 years.

And Honda Shadows

as long as you don't overload it, it should basically live forever. It's not like it'll wear out at some point. There is no point in reducing the current draw in order to prolong the life of the charging system

Reducing electrical load actually stresses the system if a standard shunt style regulator is being used. The stator puts out a constant wattage per engine RPM. This either gets used or the rectifier has to dump the excess power to ground as heat. Excess shunting to ground = running hotter. If you want to be dropping electrical load , ideally you would install a series style rectifier. Instead of shunting to ground like standard shunt rectifiers , a series rectifier can actually cut off stator output allowing the windings to cool down. Series rectifiers are recommended for track bikes where headlights are being unplugged.

Stator is connected to the battery through the RR. Since RR has diodes in it, stator will constantly charge the battery as long as its output voltage is higher then battery voltage. All the consumed electricity is taken from the battery. I'm not an expert, but this is my basic understanding.

Hey hey I've had that grime causing weird readings happen to me on a China bike that I had no reference materials for, washed it out with brake clean and things returned to normal

@@Onewheelordeal Yeah, it's got me a time or two in the past. Unfortunately lol

But wouldn't the end of the plug basically not have any point it could have grime to drop your resistance without being am actual short?

@@RaphYkun Not necessarily. I should have mentioned insulation could be cracked or worn through or you may even have moisture under the cover around the stator and internal wiring. My point was check everything before replacing the part. My apologies for not clarifying my thought properly, I'm a bit of a scatter brain at times... I just want to save others some aggravation by being thorough in their testing, before pulling the cover and stator.

I have to disagree in regards to continuity to ground. Any continuity to ground will fail the charging system. Just touch the AC wires with the bike running and it’ll hurt because the couple mega olhms to ground you probably (your body) are is still a plenty good enough path to ground for some of the electricity. I do agree you are correct to emphasize the importance of a clean connector but that’s its own thing.

Buy a trickle charger and quick connection for the bike. Makes batteries last.

@@redtobertshateshandles Hey, I just got one. But for some other purpose. Mind sharing briefly how I can use a trickle charger to keep my battery helth tip top? Cheers mate.

Any of them work. Don't need to be fancy.

@@nevinkuser9892 I know that. It was cool to see being that RadioShack is gone now.

@@thearch1tect249actually they still exist as part of another store or website only.

rip

I noticed that too.. first thing I looked ar was the date of video 😂😂awesome. You know he don't lend out no tools😂😂😂

Yeah, I was the same at the end of the video. Even tho my bike has LED headlight, I still find it lacking in lighting up the pathway - especially when going around a corner at night. I want to out a couple of small “running lights” that are on at night, to really light up road 20 - 25’ in front of the bike

And to think it all started with a leather shop. Remember Tandy leathers. They are still around too. 🙏

Yes I have this issue with gsxr 1000

well, here at idn, 46 or rossi error also common on r25/mt25