Ricky, at 8:45 your multimeter is set to read current (ammeter), not voltage (voltmeter). The display confirms this - you're reading a tiny 13mA, not 13V. NEVER connect an ammeter across your power source. As an ammeter is an extremely low impedance device, you are creating a circuit with infinite current which will immediately blow a protection fuse - either in the meter or on that charger pigtail. Either one of the aforementioned fuses is blown or that battery is totally dead. Great info on testing the stator though. Thank you.
Here’s another tip. Open the derby cover. If you get a bad smells like electrical burning. More than likely your Stator is going out. You can do all the test you want and they may pass. But from my experience open up the derby cover if you can smell that electrical smell pull the primary cover off and look at the Stator you’ll see it’s starting to burn, some of the coils could be black or all of them indicates a bad Stator. I’ve seen this on Harleys and imports more than you know. Most the time when you do the test you’re usually done at cold or warm up run the bike for a while when it gets really hot and then the test start to fail,
Hello Ricky HD I have a 91 Sporty XLH1200, it consists of a single phase stator. The battery is about a year old, I use an HD bat tender, and the starter whips right over. I got back from a ride and smoke is seen down by the shifter. I shut engine down. the 2 pin connector between stator and RR was extremely hot. The reg. shorted the Bat+ wire to ground internally and no continuity between a.c. input and charge wire. there is a circuit brkr between Bat+ and charge wire and wire to ignition The stator is good as its resistance is .3 ohms and puts out around 65 volts at 2500 rpm. I am trying to understand why plug to stator got so hot. thank you very much for your help.
Have a 2012 dyna fat bob with this issue I put a new voltage regulator on ran fine for a day then the next day all my lights are back on sator is good any ideas
Another tip. With battery fully recharged to 12.8 volts. Hook leads to battery POS/NEG, next Put your meter in min/max mode (if it has the option). I got lucky and got a fluke, cheap. . Try to start bike. Read the min/max voltage taken by meter. If the max drops to 10.7 or below you have a cell in your battery that is failing. Each cell accounts for 2.133 volts, therefore if your battery drops under 10.8 during any millisecond under a load, even if it jumps back up into the range of 11 or 12 volts, a cell is shorting and not delivering the 2.133 volts it’s responsible for. Sometimes you’ll see it go below 9.5 volts. In that case 2 cells are failing
He left that out for some reason. Maybe start the bike and see what the voltage is at the battery. Possibly disconnect the Neg cable while running. If it shuts off then you know its either stator or regulator. If the stator passes all the checks he showed. Then its the regulator. Trust me on this. You don't want it to be the stator. That is a three hour job for me. Not hard just taking the whole primary off is a lot to keep track of. Cardboard for the hardware is a must as many are different lengths.
@@playsportfun3356 I was going to ask if the meter can test the diodes in the Harleys. I understand that the rectifiers in different models can have other electronics built into the units that complicate diode testing in rectifiers. I don't know if this applies to Harley makes or not. Is this something that you are knowledgable about?
you should have illustrated/shown how the rectifier/voltage regulator was failing etc etc...using the meter to show failing numbers etc....but thanks for the video....next time show a video in full detail from A to Z....you know it but your audience does not know it.....
My regulator keeps running hot and then it will not charge the battery. IV replaced it 2 times and I'm about to replace this one but I'm thinking maybe there is something else that is blowing my regulator... Any ideas?
This might be dumb but I had the same shit happen. All my gauges died then my lights then the engine. I’m checking the continuity on the stator. They all read 0.01 except for one of them which was 0.00. As long as it doesn’t say open line still am I good or is the 0.0 bad still?
If problem is intermittent it sounds like contacts. Why you simply didn't try to clean contacts of those 3-prong connectors instead or replacing the regulator? Use small tubes brush or even a toothpick and isopropanol or even denaturated alcohol. Don't apply that contact grease as it's not good for low-tension contacts (rather makes it worse).
When checking voltage, the meter must be set on voltage ( the indicator being a straight line with three lines above it, this indicates direct current or pulsating DC), not current (mA)
Awesome video... I have a strange issue with my bike. On idle i only get 12.5 to 12.6v charge. When i rev the bike to 1.5k i get around 13v... and at 1.8k rpm i get 14.2v... Stator and rectifiers have been replaced twice, tested stators and no issues. Can bad grounding cause this? Or is this normal with some softails?
Hi. Dyna 2001 FXDP I have problem with burning regulators.wiring ground and plus checked. I measuring at minimum stator give 20- 23V but when accelerating it rises above 75- 80 V. In 10 minutes regulator burning. Stator already checked and looking good. Please help. Cheers
On a buell, battery is good. But! Within a 5 mile ride I can't watch my voltage hold a good 14.v then, float at 13.2, then 12.6, finally 11.8. But, when I let it rest, it's back at staring voltage.. Im grabbing another multimeter and checking after i get it towed from work back home, but...Vr or stator?
Nice job Ricky. Have trouble with my 07 king. Engine and battery light came on while riding. Pulled over checked cables found them a little loose. Tightened down and rode 17 mi back home with both indicators still on. Going to do your electrical testing now.
Hey Rick, question? Just brought a 2007 Harley Davidson Street glide. Check engine light keeps coming on, Harley Davidson dealership can’t seem to fix the bike. Something about a voltage overload. I have a standard radio on my bike and when riding on the freeway and turn my music up to normal check engine light comes on. It’s been to the dealer two times and they can’t seem to fix it. Any ideas on what it could be?
Hey man, I want to ask something. I have a 48 sportster which has a problem when I push the gas on a high rpm sometimes the headlights flicker and the engine feels like it drops and sometimes the engine suddenly stops, so i have to keep it on a low rpm to avoid the engine to shutdown. Is it the stator problem? Or maybe from the combustion? Please help me because I am very confused right now 😅
I have found that a 5 yr old battery can lose voltage. You may have a bunch of crazy shit going on electronically. It may not always be a stator issue. Stator's do not work like a alternator on a car. If a battery is crap you wont get constant voltage. If you have electric issues keep in mind your battery life and how it was maintained for multiple years will and can cause some crazy shit.
Bro i had an older battery that was doing this but now I put a new one in and realized I don't hear the fuel pump. Come to find im not even getting power to the fuel pump fuse. Can you help me figure this out? Vrscse2
hey what ever conclusion did you come to? i know its been years but my bike battery is dead and i just got it in july lol at first i thought it was the security system light blinking....
What about the other end of the voltage regulator ?? Like, what if everything is good up to the regulator but then there is a break between the regulator and.......... The battery..I guess ??? If that an option ??
Same scenario happened to me yesterday on Mt Hood. Major bummer. No way to jump had to be towed 1-1/2 hrs. back home. Thanks for the vid brotha! Will apply this!
What about bike off at battery & bike running at battery? Accurate, yes no? If yes, how important is rpm for testing. Most opinions are 2k? Is that correct? Or should it show a voltage increase even at idle?
... couple months past but just gava check on my custom softail - battries a year old. When off n fully charged shows '12.8v'. Runnin at idle - '12-13v' flex due to lites n chit. Slight rev from 1500 rpm on up - jumps er to '14-14.2v'.
Thanks for your time but I would like to see a test on the regulator . We can assume it is the issue but there should be a test maybe a bench test to check input and output.
This was a great video, and answered some questions… I’m having the same issue with my sportster only thing is that my bike is completely dead, I can’t test the stater on start up electrical doesn’t work not even my speedometer lights up. Hopefully these tests will help me diagnose the problem.
I’ve had this issue twice now on my road king. New battery.. month later while riding my bike just shut off. All tests came out in spec with a donor battery. Had my battery tested and it was bad. Put in new battery. Month later same thing. Bike went dead while riding. Haven’t tested battery yet. I’m sure it’s fried again. So I ekther got 2 duds off the shelf that took a shit after a month…or I have something in the charging system spiking intermittently and frying the battery. Let me know what you figure out
Frankly, I think anyone who rides should have a very good idea of these issues and when they do their oil & filter change service the air cleaner, check spark plugs, putting a meter across the battery to see state of charge would also be a good idea.
Thanks needed it! Info is on point and very easy to follow. Looking fir a good mechanic in Cali.. funny harley shops dont really work on later year bikes. 1st Harley.. 04 electra glide Classic. Rode dirt mostly as a kid then bought my 1st Gsxr 750 slingshot when i was 17. Lost alot of friends, riding stupid.. put bike up, had kids n i kinda felt my number was up. Turned 50 , i told myself yeaes ago when i did i was buyng a Harley and i love it!!! Mostly ride to clear head.. i figured my 1st bike would be my learning bike and it has bigtime. But having guys like you out there droping solid info to help is just plain Awesome! Thanks again Jerry Norwalk Ca
Thanks man. I’m going to check my sporty out this weekend. One dumb question. After my bike broke down and got jumped. And that out on me just like you explained. Now it won’t start, so do I get jumped again to check the stator with the engine on test?
Hi Ricky! I found this video extremely helpful while helping my brother troubleshoot an electrical problem with his 2000 Ultra Classic. His has only two wires between the Stator & Regulator and although they showed good on the ground test and the connectivity test, when we did the AC Voltage test, we could only muster 2.3 Volts out of her. The Service Manual suggests that this is either the Stator or Rotor. Is this bought as two separate pieces? Mechanics around here aren't that forthcoming with info! LoL! Thanks
at 8:52 meter is set at milli Amps??? i would think it should be set at DC VOLTS NOT AT MILLI AMPS ??? i thought you would want to check Volts not Amps??? so i guess you can check Volts on a Amp settings ??? it looks like it reading 13.0 milli Amps ... on the meter correct???
If a battery has a dead cell, it won’t have 12v or above. You’re looking at 9-10 volt, if it has a dead cell. Batteries normally have 6 cells, equating to 2volts a cell.
Rick, thanks for sharing. But you flawed two things.. never check resistance when you are powered 'on' and 'mA' is Current Value, not Voltage. To check Current, that Ammeter should be placed 'in series' and not 'across' the Battery Terminals. Thanks.
Outstanding video. Exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you. FYI: Your flag is displayed backwards. The union should be to the upper left. 🇺🇸👍🏻
I have tk keep bump starting my bike. Original battery was low. Got a new one and cranks but doesn't start. I'll be picking up a meter tomorrow but would the bike still run with a bad stator with a bump start?
Rick can you make a vid on the electrical tester on where that dial needs to be on the stator test. Even with reading glasses on I cant see it to good. Phantom in Massachusetts
Dude my bike is starting up fine and about 15 minutes in to a ride it just dies I just replaced stator and v regulator when I try to start it after it dies it’s got no spark what are your thoughts
interesting 19 to 26 volts pr thousand rpm same as on my Sporty but this is a 3 phase job. so more current output as the engine is bigger, more loads and a heavier starter.
First off, thanks for the video. I have a 2000 Fat Boy. It has 2 leads on the plug going from the stator to the regulator. When I do the continuity test, from each lead to a bolt on the frame, I get 1500+ on the meter, instead of no change. Q: stater is bad?
Hi Micky i have a 2014 street Glide and the voltimeter in the faring becomes crazy it marks 14-15 v. I changed the voltimeter regulator but the problem continues so i went to the mecanix and he said that the problem is the battery but the battery it's ok on 12 whit the bike turn off what do You think bro?
Thank you very much for the information and making everything so clear. I've always felt intimidated electrical issues. I never had the confidence to attempt a repair. You made things very simple for me and I really appreciate it. 👍
Great help, thanks. Is there a test for crank position sensor?. I know it not electrical, but it does start the bike, or prevent it from starting if it is defective. How can I tell?
So on the part 5:30 and after where it’s testing if there’s something grounded from the stator inside the primary… mins had readings. On all 3 holes. Do I need a new stator or do I need to find the part that’s grounding?
My voltmeter bounces a lot (bad gauge) everything cut out except headlight on i4 one night check volts barley charging jumped on checking regulator it showed good but I found bad clean ground and the drag specialties battery had bad cell new amg battery and tight grounds no issues
@@RickyHD I changed yesterday the rectifier and the battery just in case and the bike now is working great. No battery or engine sign on the speedometer. Thanks God it's not the stator . That's bro for your video it help a lot
The last test you did with the test light, you used a digital one, if I use the old style where it's a probe then the other end is a clip would I clip it to ground like normal?
