This is a very unusual socket situation - having an external mounted box sunk into the wall. Why show an example like this? Most sockets have a back box (metal or plastic on other side of plasterboard) which means that it's not straight forward as in your video.....that is, you'd need to install extra long electrical screws since the tile goes behind the electric socket front plate, not around it like in your video.
My tiles are slightly proud of my patress boxes, do try and set the boxes flush with the face of the tiles or, can I put my nice new switch plates on, using the same silicone that I'm using all around the kitchen, to seal the plate to the tiles ?? It's literally 3-5 millimetres on all the boxes,lower and upper including light switches. It was like it with the old tiles that I removed and it is slightly less with new new tiles I am about to install so, it has been like that the entire time I have been here and there has not been an issue, I just want to know so it is done correctly, legally with longevity and safety in mind.
You skipped the part where the outlet or switch is now 1/4 to 3./8 deeper than the surface of the new tile. Magically you go from no outlet to screwing in the faceplate. But that's impossible if it is set behind the tile.
Ok but usually the sockets would be mounted on a metal back box not a surface patress box that has been sunk into the wall some how. That will need a somewhat different technique especially if the tile surfaces are textured. The actual sockets need sealing to the tiles somehow.
Frenzied and completely unnecessary background music makes this a hard watch, despite the skilled professional advice. What do you do without a power cutter, how would you make the parallel side cuts?
Such an incomplete video, no way goes far enough to cover all aspects of this job - either do the instruction video properly or don't do it at all. Waste of time!
