I have a 273 and while it's a little different(where you have a belt I have a chain) this really brought it all together for me... just picked my baler up did two fields and the sheer pin broke... your timing is the same as mine and your explanation was good even for someone as slow as me...lol Thanks for taking the time to make a video!
I just purchased a Hayliner 268 and this video was very helpful. Thank you farmboy for taking time to share your experience. I went out and looked at my 268 and it made perfect sense.
This is the whatyoumacallit.I see that farmer talk is a universal language ,where ever I go..So cool..Always knew how to time a baler,but am getting older now.Thanks to your video,I'm on the go again.Now,just waiting for the rain to stop....
Just wanted to say Thank You!!! Baler broke, yep it's old, but so is hubby. Our 1st year using it for hay and yada yada and so forth, it needed to be reset. We don't have the same model, but it was close enough, they got it running and are back to working! Thank you again!
I think my problem is Solved, thanks to this video! I have a 270 Baler, But the concept is the same, I took the knotter assy completely off to clean and service (new knifes, etc) and did not know it was timed. Juts spend two hours in the field cussin. going back out now to look for them marks!
@Gadeto Well you probably will need a tension spring. That will help, but there is also some adjustment in the arm that works the feeder fingers. You may need an owner's manual to adjust this arm, but it will allow the feeder fingers to go deeper into the bale chamber, thus putting more hay on the right side. My baler does that sometimes, especially in light hay like bermuda grass, but I can usually adjust the tension bar to help balance it out. If not, sometimes just going faster will help.
Yeah, NH used basically the same design for many model years. As long as your tucker fingers are attached to a rod that's attached to the plunger, this should work fine. They are handy, just a pain to get out the field when you don't have the help or equipment to make life easier!
A few factors to consider. There are stop dogs on mine at the bottom of the chamber. These are spring loaded and should be operational to keep the hay from springing back to the ram. Also fixed stop dogs on the sides. The next is to consider your tension at the exit shute. I have two handles. Try and get them equally compressed on both sides. The side that comes out longer needs to be tightened up. A banana bale is an unequal loose bale.
luis .identifica al soltar el nudo el hilo delantero y el trasero.el problema puede encontrarse con la presion en la podadora(bill hook) si el nudo esta adelante. en la presion del sujetador de hilo si esta atras. aumenta o disminuye una o dos vueltas en la rosca mientras trabajas,saludos desde celaya,gto,mex
@Gadeto Is the tension spring missing on the right or left side? If you swap sides with it, does it change the bale shape? The twine length will not be the same if the bale is lopsided because more hay is going into the longer side and that will use more twine. Are the knots even on the bale?
@aaron7610man I would have to guess that the timing is a little off then. Those chains will stretchover time and when there is so much that the tensioner can't take up, it's time to get a new one. Also, check the little steel paddle that trips the knotters and see if the end is worn out or the bushing.
Hi there. Thanks for your videos, they are all helpfull! But i need your help. I have a New Holland 268 Super Hayliner baler since a few days. The right twine is always longer than the left one, so most of the bales are skew and not very pretty. I have tested the baler so far only by putting the hay "by hand" into the pickup If i put the hay more to the right side into the pickup and as fast as i can, the bales become better.
@aaron7610man A loose chain will jump time. We had it happen one day when one of the tires hit an old stump hole. Ended up breaking both needles too. Is this happening on both sides or just one?
Sounds like it's dragging on something. Is the bale chamber rusty? Are the bale wedges intact? These are the little triangle shaped pieces attached to the side of the bale chamber. If they are worn and ragged, they could be grabbing the hay. If so, try removing them and see how it bales. If the bale chute is rusty, try sanding the rails smooth and repainting them. Hope this helps.
@AD4203 Yeah, balers are dangerous! I know a guy who lost an arm when he was younger messing around one. Now that you mention it, I believe that model 65 I have just has the dots. Hard to tell with all the pitting - lol.
@shwnlarrabee I wasn't aware of this problem. I assume you're talking about the shaft that runs through the knotter cams. The cams are held in place with keys. I would think the key would shear before the shaft twists. Sorry to hear about your neighbor. Hopefully people will see this comment and double check their shaft.
Will it become better when i drive the baler over the hay, or do the knotter need adjustment? The only thing that i can see is that the tension spring on the right sight is missing! Thanks for any help!
hey,did you ever see a baler jumping the timing on the knotters due to a loose or worn chain? i have a nh 276 super hayliner (sperryrand) and this season she has started to let go of the twine before it is fully cut and causing her to loose the twine in the knotter,she is making a perfect knot but just not cutting the twine of cleanly,the knives are razor sharp and still makes no difference,do you have any ideas to the problem? thanks aaron.......
@farmboy30117 Thanks for your fast reply! So do you think(beside the tension spring) that there is no direct failure in the knotter system? So it must be really the feeder fingers that cause the problem. But i think i could open one bale and then compare the lenght of the twines, if they have the same lenght, then i think the knotters are ok, and the feeder fingers are the problem. I have the owner's manual, under "Bale Shape" i can find how to time the feeder fingers! Thanks very much
I've got a video that might help on running the twine called Case 230 Baler - Running the twine The best advice I can give you is to get an operators manual as far as checking the knotters
Thanks for the info on the baler. Helps me understand my one better. Just wanted to ask if you knew there seem to be two different kinds of 268 baler? I'm not sure if it's the same baler with different front covers for UK and US? My one looks much the same as yours but has a chain to drive the pickup reel instead of a belt. It won't let me add a picture to this but, on all the 268's I've seen in the UK the front covers go diagonal from the flywheel over to the other side of the pick up reel instead of box shape at the front like yours. Just wondered if you knew anything about that. Keep up the good work. Thanks
The only difference I know of is they came with two different pickups. Mine had the regular style with wide plates. The super pickup had a lot more teeth and the plates were narrow.
@Airspace1 Well I guess you could call it a rake, but I think "Feeder" is probably what I would call it. Don't know of anyone looking to buy a baler, but good luck selling!
We all have one those off days for some season Mine has three dots were the timing warks are in stead of the line Gotta watch turning that thing over by hand like that I was in kinda a hurry one day an got my finger caught on the back side of the flywheel
I bought a 68 baler at auction for 140 ive used it about 500 bales it ties good but probably 20 percent of bales are banana bales!!! ive tried heavier windrows and changing speeds cant seem to keep it from it!! it is orchard grass bye the way!
thanks jay! it just gets me how most bales are fine but it just messes them up enough that I cant really get any good money!! selling and delivering 2.00 hay sucks! that is another reason to feed my own! lol I also bought a 268 last year from a widow some nice guy borrowed the needles and brought some back that was welded! lol so I think ill try it this year!
put more forks in your chamber like my 273 hayliner. I've been told by NH dealers that will help. also check the resistor plates in the chamber. nothing goes better than having a baler that works right.
Do you have any videos for the chain on the opposite side? My chain suddenly started breaking every couple of bails. Need to trouble shoot but the 268 manual does not have a lot of help from what I can see.
@@farmboy30117 my terminology is awful.. in the video, it reviews the chain on the right (when looking back onto the bailer from the tractor).. the chain I am referring to is on the left. To my knowledge, only the chain on the right is the pick up drive chain and affects the timing. If I could even confirm what that chain is called on the left, I can better search. I cannot upload a picture on here to show the photo from the manual.
i have a 275 new Holland it was out of time and it was fixed but now im having trouble with the needles it doesn't tie or ties lose knots. any suggestions?? thank you for your time.
I would suggest finding a New Holland Baler Knotter service manual. These are readily available on eBay or Amazon. Lots of good information in there to help you troubleshoot your issues. Hope this helps.
Hey Farm Boy, I have a NH 269 and think I have everything correct but it banana bails horribly. What would cause that? I think the feeder is loading the chamber heavy on one side therefore overloading one side of the bale. What do you think?
You fail tell people that if the knotter shaft is twisted a tooth out of time this is not going to fix the problem. NH balers are noted for have shafts that are twisted. If the knotter keeps jumping when not tying a bale the shaft has a twist. My neighbor watch this and it cost him a set of needles. You have to let people know
