Big shout out to you folks at Dead Air for making the newer shim kits notched! I can't tell ya how long I've spent in the past eyeballing and slightly flexing shims to figure out what thickness they were. (Might be time to buy a micrometer eh?)
Would love a similar video where you go through the torque wrench install of a keymo break. Extra credit if it’s on a bolt gun? Either way - thank you for this. Wish all these types of videos were this clear and well done.
Great info and I love watching Mike work. Very helpful and calming…like watching Bob Ross paint. 😉 Keep up the great work…and…make some more Sierra 5 cans. I need one. 😉👍🏻
Is there a torque spec if you are pin and welding your muzzle devise? Do you add grease to the threads if you were pin and welding and thinking of changing it later?
Fortunately, I have the AAC tool!! I recommended a reaction rod too. It would be nice if deadair would buy a bunch of the tools and reaction rods and rent them out.. I bought the AAC 3 prong tool 15 years ago and used it twice.
I recently had to use rocksett on a thompson center. The brake would not stay on. Wasn't enough shoulder where they threaded it to get proper torque. Has worked so far. Don't think its ever coming off though.
I have a A2 standard flash hider on my pistol lower . 11.5in barrel . I put a Gisselle 10inch rail so had to remove the flash hidden, after installing back I went to the range and it was jamming or short stroking sometimes wouldn’t even eject the shot shell . Would this be the cause ? It never happened before untill I changed the rail and installed the flash hider
I want that shirt! Big Metallica fan here and I just ordered enough of your suppressors to set a record at my gun shop. 😂 When will they be in stock? The website “notify me” is not working.
I'm having issues where it comes close but not there. And no matter how tight I make the muzzle device, I can't take my sandman s off without taking the muzzle break with it
Can you tell me a parts number and manufacturer of the vintage three prong tool you used? You mentioned “AC” as the brand is that acme or a different manufacturer?
What should I do if my muzzle device is stuck inside my can? I was just testing out weight comparisons on a couple different rifles so I can’t just rocksett it onto any of them without first removing it and getting it timed correctly 1st
While getting the shims right is kind of annoying, so far I've installed two Deadair and one SOLGW keymo muzzle devices and they all look good. I just got my Sandman last Saturday and they all aligned well.
How do you know when a muzzle device needs timing? How do we know when its timed correctly? And when does it require a shim Looking to suppress my mpk-k soon. Need to figure out the attachments.
Pappas, I MUST have one of those tools. What kind is it and where can I find one? All of my rifles run keymo flash hiders because all of my cans (Sandman S, K and Ti Nomad) are of course DA. 😉😉😉
AAC 3 prong tool. The three prong flash hider was originally designed by AAC for the SDN-6. You can get them on any major firearms retailer. Capital Armory has them in stock currently
I completly crushed the washer and just put another one on top and then I went too far on the muzzle brake timing so I backed it up a little, how did I do
@@Coicker12 if you’re using it just for a brake it’s fine but if you’re using it to mount a suppressor you’re going to want to change that out for a shim kit like he has here. Crush washers don’t offer a uniform and rigid shoulder for the muzzle device and may cause misalignment especially during use
Recommended but not 100% necessary. I got one since im using an old cetme rifle as a host and don't want to risk a baffle strike on a barrel that I don't know the history of. On a quality ar or other modern rifle it MOST LIKELY will be fine. I personally just don't want to risk it after months of waiting and hundreds of dollars.
You can’t clock what you can’t get. I’ve tried since January to get the 5/8-24 flash hider & the .578-28 piston. No dice. Are you people not producing anything? I thought you were the best system.
Don't put it back on if you are running a can. You won't get a properly aligned mount. If you are just installing a regular hider/brake and not a QD mount for a suppressor you can use it just fine. getting one back on usually requires a little bit of force. careful not to damage the threads, id avoid using metal tools to force it on. some people say you can force them on by threading the muzzle device down but I never liked the idea of that.
