Don't Fall setting up climbing anchor for top roping 

"Never and always are generally used by novices and fanatics" I love that you acknowledge there are MANY nuances in the real world and that every situation is different. Never stop learning never stop practicing systems. Thanks for all the info Bobby!

This is such a great, precise video, every passage is explained perfectly and nothing is left behind... keep this up!

I'm super excited for more of your content. Keep up the great work!

This is the exact video I needed when I started top rope climbing, all the other videos out there are great, but they seem to avoid this one topic which is so crucial! Great stuff.

Yes!! Ah I'm so glad you're making videos now Bobby, been a fan of hownot2 for a long time now and I always hoped you would start your own chanel for exactly this kind of content! Best of luck, cheers!

Thanks for the great content! And don't mind if the topics that you want to talk about are already covered by other channels. Your experience brings a lot of value and the way you deliver your content is way more digestable than on other channels! Respect!

i can't get enough of your safety tips! this is amazing content and very well explained and valuable to both new and seasoned rope-players, keep up the good work Bobby

5 5 alive - very helpful. Also the point regarding the root zone being solid.

Man this is so nice. I remember trying to set up my first top rope outside. I was crawling to the edge and then the anchor was still barely in reach even with my wingspan. This is way less sketchy. Awesome work!

This is great. I would love to see it from edge approach to anchor set up start to finish to the point where one is ready to climb. Loving these videos. Thank you.

I'm so glad you have a channel now! YES to Bobby content! You're a entertaining and enthusiastic teacher!

Your voice is very pleasing to hear. Cool content too!

What a way to become an expert on edge safety :)

Thanks for the content Bobby! Always good to refresh and/or learn new things! All your videos are so detailed yet you make it so easy to understand the systems. Love that your passing your knowledge on to others!!

Really enjoyed this video Bobby! It was great meeting you - Hope to see more videos from you soon!

That never and always remark is spot on man! Great video again Bobby.

Hey Bobby a little story for you. 2 or 3 years ago I was climbing some routes in the eastern part of Switzerland. a kind of known region, but rarely climbed spot. What I found there was kind of bizarre. There were some routes, which were bolted using concrete screw anchors, also for the 2 top anchors. The stamping on the head told me exactly which screw anchors these were. Hilti HUS-HR, D10mm x 85mm. Now the funny part. I used to work at Hilti, in the Headquarters in Schaan, FL. Most of the testing and technical documentation at the time is produced there, for all the regulatory approvals, development and what not. I've also had set these anchor myself in the past, as well as access to all the CAD files, because at the time I was a design engineer for power tools at Hilti. So in short, I knew exactly what these anchors were, and that's why they got my attention in the first place. Otherwise, I'd probably not have noticed the type of anchors used at all. Also, these anchors are weeell established in the industry and around for a long time. They get used in industrial applications all the time. Now when I was there climbing, I continued climbing with my friends and we had a great time, nothing ever failed or started to in the slightest. But once I was back I started to think a bit more about it and I don't really know what my opinion is on that. On one hand, there is the officially approved data sheet, which says that this bolt has a failure load of 16kN tension, and 33 shear in non-cracked concrete and 9kN tension and 28.6 kN shear in cracked concrete. Yes these numbers are for fairly high quality concrete, not Rock. But these numbers are tested with the bolt only 70mm deep, while at the wall, they are set like 85mm minus the thickness of the hanger. So these numbers seem super good enough. On the other hand, it kind of worries me that there might be a trend starting (here in Switzerland at least, tho other than this place, I haven't come across any other routes set like this yet) were people start using these screw anchors regularly and without much thought. They are pretty convenient after all, you're probably twice as fast in setting the bolt than with other methods. They are quite expensive, especially the Hilti ones (like 7.- a piece) but there are many cheaper brands. So I don't know concrete screw anchor in particular, but I know screws in general very well and the thing which worries me is the fact, that these are still screws, and screws come loose over time. Yes, these screws are tested in any imaginable environment. Salty surroundings, in seismic active settings, material fatigue is taken into account and lots more. But Rock kind of lives. Rock can be dense, perfect and strong, it can be impure at times or it can be a pile of rubble in many places. It changes all the time, through erosion, earthquakes, avalanches, water which freezes to ice and expands. And all these things are generally NOT a place, where a screw excels. You DON'T want to use screws there, maybe anywhere. But these things are just so convenient, if the rock is bad, I'll just set one which is double the length, or backup the anchor with a third one, because it probably still takes less time, than glue-in's. So that's it. I don't know to be honest. On one hand, I don't really care, on the other hand, it worries me a bit. But what are your thoughts on it? If you managed to read all the way through :)

Another tight and succinct video. I wish this type of content was available 30 years ago when I started climbing. I had a really old book on climbing and following the methods from it would certainly frighten most modern climbers. 😁

Really excellent pacing on your presentation. Very clear. Loving your work!

Thank You, it's good to review the basics once in a while. Finland gives 10 points.

Not a climber but I do on occasion go up on my 2 story roof and use safety devices when doing so. Great advice.

Another absolutely banger video, man I am loving to new videos

Thanks for all the knowledge Bobby, you’re one of the few channels I genuinely support. Keep killing it and hope you know there’s thousands of people eagerly waiting for the next upload, keep killing it dude.

This is great content Bobby! Sometimes the simple stuff is stuff that nobody else is covering and needs to be covered for the beginners out there.

Very informative and well covered, while the only really new thing I learned was the "five five and alive" phrase I still enjoyed all of it. Great work, subbed for more quality content.

Yay! I’m so happy to see you are making content! I loved watching videos that you were featured in, and every time I would say to myself “that guy is a “FWOK” (a F’ing wealth of knowledge)” I look forward to more videos!

Bobby, this content is great. Prepping for a trip to the Gunks and this is just what I needed.

Solid, practical advice. The tree tie could be done with the triple wrap, a fig. 8 eye and locking biner to the incoming line; this creates practically no strength reduction. If this were a summitting scenario, the main rope left available might allow anchoring quite a ways from the edge, if no closer reliable anchors were found, but this might necessitate moving down the line closer to the edge for communication, and not pulling belay rope over the edge. Situational flexibility, and familiarity with a few alternatives to the formulaic systems taught now, can help a lot to avoid needless compromises. The rule of "redundancy" is touched on, and the concept has value wherever anything might somehow be tested to a limit - but master points, belay devices and biners, harness buckles, and such are all non-redundant, in ordinary usage - but sound ropes, locking carabiners, belay devices simply have never failed where used to mfg. specs. Misuse and rockfall can bypass the normal parameters of things; things move and unclip, probably 100-1000 X more often than they break. Slings and ropes abrade dramatically, for example, under tension in a diagonal fall, across coarse granite - one climber following a traverse in the S. Platte took a mild penduluming swing, and found himself hanging from just a couple core strands of the rope(on display in Neptune Mtning). Testing equipment can reveal both surprising strengths, and weaknesses, in commonly used gear and setups. But developing an awareness of what to avoid is not a simple checklist; experience and sharing close calls can be more valuable than any quick "How To" video. User error is much more likely to result in accidents, than from using "old fashioned" methods which are still mostly "good enough."

was always wondering when you were going to make your own channel; happy to see it pop up on my recommended. love the vid!

Such important advice- even on super good terrain crap can happen so I always make sure myself and anyone up there with me are safety lined when we get near the edge. Personally I usually just pre-tie a catastrophe knot at about the distance of the edge and then clip it to me before I even clip on a cinch/gri-gri but I do see the benefits to tying it right where/when you need it too

I have always been into rock climbing but never had the opportunity to learn (curse of a tiny town) now that im in a bigger city I will be going to a climbing gym regularly. Thanks for relighting that passion

Wow, just found your channel after seeing you often on How not 2. You're one of my favorite climbing educators on RU-vid. Keep the videos coming 😊

Wow I just noticed today you have a RU-vid channel. Super happy to watch your content, I enjoy all you share. Thank you

Another perfect video. Clear, concise, not hurried, no time wasted. Video A OK, Audio A OK. Information A OK. Thanks Bobby!

Bobby is just splendid to listen to

Thank you thank you thank you!!!! You’re a good soul, I appreciate this clear cut presentation. Also I’m glad to hear you made it out of your life or death fall.

Thanks for this video Bobby. Have just completed my first outdoor class and set a couple of TR anchors both from bolts and with cams and a rock. Clipped into a hanger and a cam for myself until an anchor was set and checked by my instructor. They both worked! I have a 30' static and just got my first dynamic so I will be likely testing your methods (with a mentor) soon.

Amazing guide as always. CRG is one of my favorite jems of California!

thank you for this i learned alot about edge safty and the danger of edgeing

Apart from all the justified praise of the content of the videos I want to highlight the editing. The videos are paced nicely, the information is not overwhelming while also being concise (this has to do both with editing and with the way you talk and present information). Do you have somebody helping you with the filming and editing side of the channel? If somebody else is doing the editing (which, if it produces videos like this, is great) I'm slightly worried about some information not making it through the editing process. I just don't want your message to get cut down in the name of snappier editing, shorter videos or "more interesting" content. Anyways, it's an absolute joy to watch your videos and they're quickly becoming my favorite RU-vid "series."

This is the channel I'd recommend to someone who wanted to start learning about outdoor climbing. It's informative, and succint.

Good work, Bobby! You have one of the most informative climbing channels on RU-vid these days. Keep the content coming!

Bought to climb at Red Rocks in Vegas. Thanks for the good vibes Bobbaaay

Bobby just seems like the most awesomest bloke that ever awesomed!!

Good to see you putting those tree climbing skills to good use! 😉

I too am lucky to be alive after decking from the top of a climb when I first started out. Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Will definitely be shared with all the gumbies in my life :)

Thank you! Everyone says to setup a top rope as a new climber but I hadn't found a good video explaining how to safely set one up.

Pretty much exactly how I was taught edge protection! These are some pretty important and fundamental skills for anyone looking to set up top ropes. Thanks for the video, I'll be sharing this with my buddies 😁

Bomber content Bobby! Thank you!

A+++ Bobby! We started the climbing a long time ago (19mumblemumble) and the first three climbing magazines we bought each had a note about separate articles about different "fall while setting up TR" accidents. There's an extra lanyard on each harness to allow us to leave the safety anchor as the fourth anchor in TR the set up (it's the back up back up). Always clip in please. We make it a verbal check between husband and wife-boss while setting up the climbs: "You clipped in?" "Yeah, you?" or "Shit! I am now!"

Good stuff Bobby, keep them coming. Thnx

Great concise video! I would add a barrel knot at the end of your static line over the edge...just to ensure a good practice for ends of ropes. 😀

Loving the content, Bobby. Glad to see you on RU-vid still!

Outstanding, I'm glad you made this

You got me thinkin… made some improvements to my usual system when I was out today !!

I miss that gorge so much, Ill watch every video you make there lol! Its where I learned how to transition from the gym to trad, such a perfect place for teaching and teaching videos!

exactly what i was looking for. thanks Bobby!

Another great video! Please could you do something like an ‘about me’ type of video? I would be interested to find out how you got into climbing, some of your favourite trips, what you do for work these days etc!

Amazing information Bobby! This WILL assist the community in making safer decisions out there. Thank you.

Superb explanation about a very important topic that for some reason is rarely covered. If you lack a Grigri, a prusik hitch and a cat knot work fine too.

Another great video! Answers a lot of qusetions i've had.

Breath of fresh air to hear a pov separate from the all-too-familiar “SuperGoodEnough&HOW⁉️” YTChannel to the all new “DoesBH👍🏼😃OR👎🏼😬&WHY” Channel .....

Hell yes Bobby! Good stuff

Rope protection system is an interesting subject. I usually make mine with segments of used firemen hose.

love the Nalgene for scale! thanks.

Great video, Bobby 👍👍

Excellent and concise. Great content. Fantastic delivery.

I'd love to see a video about setting up a top rope or fixed line to clean and practice high ball boulders

I saw on a rescue demonstration video. The rope is wrapped around the object and the wraps hold the load and the carabiner is the backup to the wraps holding the load.

It's awesome seeing new content from you! Thanks for all that you do :)

Bobby; I think you caught all the gotchas , excellent, I personally hate it when climbers are unprotected at edges. A tip I was given when I started was with slings if your not sure it will stay on, run the sling back and forth like a saw, pops off occasionally ! Nice tip on the double rope around the boulder with a bowline ( new to me )🙂

Great video! Not sure if it was mentioned but it's probably a good idea to put a stopper knot in the end of the rope

We need a "Stay high, dont die" T-shirt with the pose on it at 7:34 🤣

Nice! A hand on step by step guide for safe climbing would be cool. Just like this, examples and bad examples, not just talking. Obviously not instead of a climbing course or experienced company. Useful even for those who have taken a course. Keep it up!

Great content Bobby!

I’ve definitely had some sketchy times setting up my top rope solo anchors at Cosumnes. Looking back I definitely should’ve done something like this

Perfect content. It's short and sweet. Very helpful thank you.

Bobby once again with a banger ❤‍🔥

perhaps you also could cover using a rope protector on edges, and how to deal with Descending/Ascending, while using a rope protector.

Love it, learning stuff. Keep it up Bobby! 🙏

Awesome video, I needed some reassurance on this, and you addressed the issues really well and in detail. I didn’t see much about padding on edges though, and I’ve always been wondered whether you should have some when belaying over an edge from the top.

Great content! Simple, straightforward. Is this filmed at the Cosumnes River Gorge? I think my climbing partner used that smaller tree to descend down to the anchors. I do kinda wish this walkthrough included descending to the anchors, and then ascending back up -- that part is a bit awkward sometimes if you are setting up a TR. Thank you for all that you do for the community!

Your making great videos keep it up! I did have a question however, i feel like i see many people let go of gregre’s while rope soloing or even while repelling when they stop to look at holds, rest, ext. would you say it’s safe to do so? I do understand that a gregre is a assisted breaking device but it seems like people are comfortable using at a anchor point to the harness without holding tension.

Thanks for the video Bobby, reliable content on this subject is suprisingly hard to find. One question: when you're using a single point anchor like this it is obviously ideal for the anchor and the place you're setting the toprope to form a line that is perpendicular to the cliff edge. However, there isn't always a suitable anchor that forms a roughly perpendicular line with the spot you want to set a rope. How do you handle stabilization of a single point rappel in those situations? I went with a guide who did essentially what you describe here despite a not great angle.

10/10 would climb with Bobby!

To mitigate tree damage, I use 1 inch webbing around the tree. One session might be doing minimal damage, but in a high traffic climbing area little amounts of damage can add up over time.

I’ve found this video very helpful! Thank you Bobby 😊

Sweet content, I have been thinking about this for a while thanks for the explanation

Thank you for this!

Great video!

Keep it up!

Thank you Bobby for the great content as usual I would like to add my 0.00002$ to the topic. I think it's better to tie a slipknot as a catastrophe knot instead for the overhand on a bight. The reason being that it's easier to untie when the Grigri is stuck on it; otherwise you'll have to ascend the rope and it's particularly challenging in an overhang. This is just a minor nitpick but I think it's good to build systems that work everywhere. Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

super helpful! thank you :)

Hey Bobby, quietly and with much respect, I appreciate these videos. One thing that drives me maaaad is myths and Sort-of-myths about climbing. Obviously some of these are covered on The Internet, but I wonder if some things about climbing might be in scope for channel. Is it bad to have a sling round a boulder that only just fits (think of the angles!!). What sort of load does a sitting down body belay support? (When should it/shouldn't it be used?) What are the risks of standing up and belaying (or not!)? How much wear on my rope should I expect whilst top roping? Huge gratitude for the time you put into these videos. I think many people don't realise how much effort and thought go into 6 mins of content (let alone the time to learn this in the first place). I do. fistbumps :)

You the Man Bobby! Great video! Addressed my concerns. 2 Q’s. (1) How long, diameter, static safety rope? (2) Timber hitch around tree? will not slip to damage rope or tree?

Hiking to cliff dwellings in Arizona and other trails in the superstitions has me looking for cross over items to help deal with border line climbing situations. Using a BD grappling hook as a pack hanger was my first idea and having a foot loop for a step along with it was another. Any input or ideas you can share in a video may be something sorta new to YT and helpful to a wider range of folks. I find myself really enjoying myself as a learn about this stuff even if I'm not using it quite as intended. Thanks for sharing and you really are enjoying the comments if you made it this far, take care and be well.

This is super helpful. Thanks!

Hey Bobby, I've watched a bunch of videos today and decided that while Ryan isn't unlikable you are more likable. I'm not sure what one would do with that information but it's not my problem anymore. 😂 Sort of like a "Here Bobby, take this." moment. lol

Great Video! could you do a video on Pulley's uses in rock climbing

Enjoying the vids. Anything more to look forward to in the future with Ghost Town Living?