I'm brand new to climbing (2 months in) and this video was very helpful...at first i was like "wtffff no way i'll ever be able to do a V15 like that", but then you said you'd been climbing for 25 years and i felt better lol thx for making this video Dave, subscribed!!!
Another great video. This guy's videos have physically allowed me to return to climbing after a 15 year lay off due to injury and also given me the motivation and belief that I can get fixed. Just ordered his book on injuries, literally given me hope for the 1st time in 15 years. Only had 1 session climbing since my lay off but happily on sighting F6c and flashing Font 6c/+.
Plateau at v5 for the past year. Wish I could break through but I’m thankful that the sport is so challenging and it will make the break through all the more satisfying. Love the tips
Yes, we want to see technique videos from the master! ;) I really enjoy your videos, so calm and down to earth, yet so strong and reflected. Keep it up!
You mentioned ways to put power through your feet on a steep overhang. If you could do a video on that I think that would be super helpful. My overhang grade is often way below the level I climb on a slab or slight gradient.
I climbed for about a year in 2011. I started back up last November and hurt my shoulder. I went to physical therapy for a couple months and gained my first glimpse of hope that injuries need not define success. As of today, I have been climbing for two weeks. Monday Wednesday and Friday for 4 hours each day. Six hard days so far, and zero shoulder pain! If you want a healthy dose of hope to overcome injury, watch Dave’s video on golfers elbow and buy his book “Make or Break”. Learning about your anatomy is important but the most important thing is to believe in your anatomy. Believe in your body’s natural ability to adapt to your demands on it.
Thanks for the great contents Dave! For those looking for the individual chapters: Introduction 0:0:0 Part 1: GOALS & RESOURCES (What is the right climbing goal for you?) 0:0:50 Part 2: TRAINING TECHNIQUE (Technique = understanding) 0:3:59 Part 3: TRAINING STRENGTH (Can you try hard enough to recruit every fibre?) 0:8:43 Part 4: TRAINING ENDURANCE (Fatigue resistance in important in bouldering) 0:11:50 Part 5: PLANNING SESSIONS (What is the best way to use the bouldering facility?) 0:13:19 Part 6: TACTICS (What gets in the way of high quality training?) 0:26:54
Have no idea how I've been watching climbing training videos for years and have just now discovered your content. Some of the best stuff I've seen/heard. Wish I'd found it earlier
As someone who boulders at the Castle in North London I've grown accustomed to bouldering with a lot of people around but when on the few days its not busy I bloody thrive off it. Having to overcome the problem myself without resorting to watching others do it makes me improve so much more, having said that there's nothin wrong with watching others or asking for help, sometimes it can be the difference between completing and being that 1% away from completing a problem
Really enjoyed the video. A lot of information in there that will be handy for me in the future. One thing I did feel was missing was the importance of flexibility and stretching. Personally, my injuries tend to bother me most when I'm stiff and tight which is usually down to me not stretching properly.
Static stretching before any workout actually greatly increases the chance of injury by dulling nervous receptors... flexibility is not the same as mobility
@@kanepowell6521 How did you come to that conclusion? I'd be interested to see the literature. How would you recommend creating better mobility if flexibility isn't the answer?
@@Murcuseo Flexibility is important, but static stretches should be used AFTER the training, before the training you should do dynamic exercises to warm up and improve your mobility.
I am really psyched to have found this channel. I am also quite embarrassed to say that before stumbling across this channel, I had had no idea who Dave MacLeoad was. Now I am all the more amazed that he makes these insights available to everyone. Such a gem!
Really useful advice. I think the comparison you made between those who apply critique, to those who are "passive" when they fall from a route is a really valuable point.
Dave, I stumbled on your Channel...actually RU-vid’s algorithm brought us together. Awesome vlog and very informative. Thanks for spreading climbing knowledge.
I grew up near Aberdeen but now live in BC, Canada. I just started indoor climbing regularly in November and was enjoying the momentum of improvement through training, and looking forward to some outdoor experiences this year. I haven't touched more than a fingerboard that I luckily picked up before the local wall closed. But I find I am learning a whole lot from your videos, so thanks for sharing!
Guy's the spit of stannis baratheon.. only started climbing a few months ago (aged 29) but have really enjoyed this and other videos. Cant wait to get better and progress. Plan to buy your book soon. Cheers.
IDEA FOR NEW VIDEO TOPIC: Fitness vs Health. Loving the videos Dave. I just bought 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. Can't wait to read it. Cheers
This is really thoughtful and well put-together. Tons of great info packed into 30 minutes. Dave mentions 'willingness to train' as one major component. A technique that helps with this is mental recovery. To avoid burnout and to maximize fun, I need to avoid thinking about climbing too much on my recovery days. Fortunately, I'm a physicist and a skateboarder, so I have a lot to occupy my time besides climbing. After spending 2 days recovering and focusing mostly on physics, I'm so excited and happy to climb, that climbing feels brand new and fresh again. I can see why this wouldn't work for everyone though.
if i see him climbing i want to spin back my hole life and start bouldering decades earlier just to become 1% of his skill and strenght. dude you are a beast.
I absolutely cannot wait for each and every video from this channel, absolutely inspirational!! So looking forward to the winter side of things from you as well Dave!! Such a great set up, hope to have something close to this one day.
I found I've had to put effort into not trying so hard and learning to let go. This is because I was getting injured too often. However these days I boulder for fun exploration and to improve slowly while avoiding injury. Great channel thanks
Thankyou for this video. This a great resource for a beginner climber like myself. I have done a little indoor climbing but love the fact of how terrifying outdoor climbing is. I love how you pushed yourself to do scary looking but easier climbs to overcome fear and build confidence. This climbing style is perfect for myself due to a knee injury. Thanks for your time.
love this! amazing content! would absolutely watch a series about basic techniques - as a climber who doesn't have friends who are any more experienced than myself its so interesting to watch and learn!
Best vlog of the series yet Dave, very slick. One on how you managed your training and climbing through the period of having a young family would be great. Things like scheduling training and how hard to train when you NEVER feel rested but don’t want to halt your climbing life. Should we be happy to just tread water through this period or can we still really progress? Or is this the time when a (re)focus on technique can deliver most?
Excellent video Sir, being an older climber myself. This gives me some hope to improve myself in ways that don't necessarily require strengthening my muscles. Thank you
26:25 Yesterday I woke up in a mountain hut after a previous day of sports climbing and a long night of heavy drinking outside the hut. I felt totally fine and did a nice alpine route that did. Now you encouraged me to do stuff like this more often ^^. Thanks Dave!
Hi Dave. Can you do a video where you choose a hard boulder problem, work it , and hopefully send it? I would like to see the process from start to finish with all the ups and downs in between. Thanks for all you do!!
thanks for another really interesting video. i would really appreciate some more specifics on a typical 45 session. its always been a personal weakness and i'm planning to address that in the next few months.
Hi Dave. I'm starting to frame my home wall this weekend, for which much of the design can be credited to your wall and this channel. Just wanted to say thank you for the thoughtful and insightful content. Keep it up! : )
Thanks a lot Dave. I enjoy your systematic way of discussing topics. Can you please discuss the pinch/sloper types of grip training, are they getting better from hangboard training or one should practice boulder problems involving those grips to get better. What if the climbing wall doesn't have enough of those, what do you think about pinch blocks and hangboarding on slopy grips? Thanks
Thanks loads Dave! Massively packed with info. One thing from your 9 out of 10 book that you didn't mention this time is the need to switch between performance mode and training mode. And that when in training mode the focus is on the process & proprioception rather than just topping out. Hope I've understood this right, and looking forward to future videos.
Wonderful video Dave, your content is some of climbings best and I relish every video you publish. Secondarily, it looks that your keto dieting has worked some lean-mass wonders. You look more fit than ever. Cheers to that.
Great video, thanks! Yes, deliberate practice really influences one's progression. But sometimes mindless fun after a grueling work day or week can be fun.
Excellent stuff as usual, love the way you talk about the subtle interplay of focus attention and effort, I think it would be good somewhere to talk about the importance of the social dynamics of climbing and how that can affect performance good and bad.
Dave, your videos have been brilliant. A suggestion would be to extract your audio and post it as a podcast on Spotify. Considering the length of each of these videos, it would be great to listen while on the move.
Hey Dave! I'm an avid fan and have followed everything i can find of yours for years! I've been really interested in hearing more detail regarding your diet. I know it's a touchy subject, but i am specifically interested in emulating the diet parameters you have been working with lately for my own personal trials. Even a private message with some details would be hugely appreciated!
Thank you for awesome video. You mention that you spend majority of your time bouldering yet I remember you claimed somewhere that there were times when you hangboarded 4x a week at certain time period and it really benefited your climbing. I would be interested what is your general advice on how much time to dedicate to bouldering/hangboarding and also if and how much you train core and push muscles. Thank you!
I hangboard most days of the week out of bouldering season, and boulder as well. In the winter I don't do so much because I'm out on the projects on rock!
Excellent video! I've now subscribed to your channel and I'm excited for your future videos. I love bouldering the most because its the first discipline in climbing I've been exposed, also our place is littered with boulders and not much huge walls suitable for lead climb. The tips you've shared are insightful.
yeah, my goal this year is not to get injured. I‘m climbing for 9 months or so and have been injured at least 5 or 6 of them.. my goal is to be able to climb 3 times a week without it being too much for my body. It might take a year or so to get there, but i‘ll be patient from now on.
One thing that almost never gets addressed in these videos is pinch strength. For most people it's more of a bottleneck than crimp strength. How important is it to train pinches, how should we train them?
you can see the foot error toward the beginning if you switch between 6:46 and 6:56. the toe is definitely a tad bit closer to the wall when it sticks.
