How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]

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Videos mentioned:
Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): • Why Climbers Should Re...
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00:00 Intro and Overview
00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice
00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy)
00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance
00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations
00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo
00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form
00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression
00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range
00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note
00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy)
00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance
00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation
00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo
00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression
00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range
00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy)
00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance
00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation
00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo
00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression
00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy)
00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance
00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation
00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance
00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation
00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo
00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations
00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range
00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy)
00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance
00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations
00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression
00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started
00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form
00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance
00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo
00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression
00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression
00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy)
00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance
00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo
00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy)
00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations
00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo
01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy)
01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations
01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo
01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy)
01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance
01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo
01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 125
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons
Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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Опубликовано:

30 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 422

@HoopersBeta Год назад

⚡Please support free content on this channel (and sometimes even get discounts!) by purchasing through out affiliate links: www.hoopersbeta.com/store For coaching inquiries with Dan: danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com ⌛ TIMESTAMPS BELOW! 00:00:00 Intro and Overview 00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice // UPPER BODY // 00:02:06 // Upper Body: VERTICAL PULL (Anatomy) 00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance 00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations 00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo 00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form 00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression 00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range 00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note 00:10:30 // Upper Body: HORIZONTAL PULL (Anatomy) 00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance 00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation 00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo 00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression 00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range 00:21:30 // Upper Body: SHOULDER EXTERNAL ROTATION (Anatomy) 00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance 00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation 00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo 00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression 00:30:25 Upper Body: COMPRESSION (Anatomy) 00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance 00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation 00:33:47 // Upper Body: PUSH (Anatomy) 00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance 00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation 00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo 00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations 00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range 00:42:23 // Upper Body: FINGERS, HANDS, WRISTS (Anatomy) 00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance 00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations 00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression 00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started 00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form // LOWER BODY // 00:51:59 // Lower Body: PUSH (Anatomy) 00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance 00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo 00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression 00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression 00:55:43 // Lower Body: PULL(Anatomy) 00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance 00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo 00:57:27 // Lower Body: TOE HOOK (Anatomy) 00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations 00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo 01:00:25 // Lower Body: HEEL HOOK (Anatomy) 01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations 01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo 01:05:52 // Lower Body: HIP ABDUCTION & ADDUCTION (Anatomy) 01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance 01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo // CONCLUSION // 01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion

@sanddr. 10 месяцев назад

will you make a video on grip strength and grip training (wrists, fingers, hand) i really lack in that field and dont know anything about it nor do i know how to train or what to train types of grips too

@AllegraClimbingPsychologist Год назад

This is outstanding, really. And the structure allows you to go to the section you need when you want it. Incredibile, really!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you! Appreciate the comment/feedback :)

@manocaio123 Год назад

I was watching your video yesterday on Pete Whitakker! Awesome job! Between this channel, lattice and yours I just dont feel like I can have better sources of education when it comes to climbing training and psychology :) Cheers from Brazil!

@AllegraClimbingPsychologist Год назад

@@manocaio123 wow never would have thought to be put side to side with Hooper and Lattice 😍 Thank you so much!

@pascalporedda958 Год назад

This content is crazy. It’s gonna be so valuable for so many people over many years. Thanks for this!

@debradaugherty8287 8 месяцев назад

Exercises for the not super strong: (1) 14:57 Horizontal Row with Barbell (2) 23:24 Shoulder External Rotation with light bar/dumbbells (3) Bench and Overhead Press 36:24 (4) 51:14 Hang board (probably not fully weighted) in position shown (5) Pulling on Band with Toe 58:58 (6) Hamstring curls with Monkey Feet weight attachments 1:02:57 (7) Sliders holding on to countertop or chair 1:07:50. Thank you guys!! Great tips!

@RM-xq7gf 7 месяцев назад

Source?

@78jtfvhiuuygiuyg 4 месяца назад

@@RM-xq7gf The video

@thanh-thomasnguyen7969 Год назад

Holy cow, this is THE video for climb training. Phenomenal.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Yew! Thank you!

@thanh-thomasnguyen7969 Год назад

@@HoopersBeta In the principle of specificity, the closer an exercise resembles the actual targeted movement the more useful the exercise is. Is there a reason why most of the exercises in this video are off the wall; Wouldn't on-the-wall exercises would be more useful for climbing? Also, the focus of this video to me was physical/full body exercises, but is there anything you could elaborate on (or direct to a previous video) for training cycles (macrocycle, mesocycle, etc.) and power systems training (anaerobic, aerobic)? Thank you for your hard work HoopersBeta!

@meganh7526 Год назад

It sounds kind of obvious in retrospect, but I want to credit your videos for helping me to think differently about not just training for climbing, but time management in general for achieving goals. Your outlook about how you choose to allocate the limited time we have to devote to our hobbies and goals has guided me to be more mindful about the importance of being thoughtful and strategic when pursuing said goals.

@gustafsjostrand Год назад

Wow absolutely epic! Talk about threading everything together :) You guys are killing it, many thanks.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thanks for the comment and you're welcome! Hope you enjoy it!

@hypelloid1312 Год назад

The video I waited for, thank you for providing us with such high quality training and health videos!

@junej.8030 Год назад

This is exactly what I've been looking for! Outstanding work, thanks a lot!

@lucas.6731 Год назад

I really love the content on your channel, because I genuinely trust your expertise and I really like the fun you put into learning these things! I’m actually in need of a video for triceps tendinopathy and how to treat it! Keep up the great work!

@laurenstagg8077 Год назад

Can't thank you enough for this video, it is incredible! Your whole channel is so well done, such an amazing resource 👏

@jaredandress4304 Год назад

Thank you so much for putting this content out there for free for everyone. I'm sure it took a substantial amount of time to put this all together.

@ricardodominguez5066 Год назад

This is the best RU-vid video I've seen in a while!!! Amazing job very clearly and completely explained. Loved it!

@oisinweitzman5410 Год назад

Great video! Would love to see a follow-up about periodisation and long-term training plans 😊

@playwithbugs Год назад

It was super generous of all of you to put this together. Thank you!!

@projectone1022 Год назад

This is such a relieving guide, no other channel combines anatomy and practical exercises in such a seemless way. I will be including the techniques and concepts into my training!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you for the kind comment! Hope this guide continues to help you for a long time!

@caesarsol Год назад

I'm astonished at the quality of this video! it answers half of the questions I've ever had, and with great detail.

@cornalito Год назад

Each video is better than the last. This is going to be a hard one to beat. Excellent job

@kiul6075 Год назад

This video is gold. Thank-you and I love the channel.

@sethg4584 9 месяцев назад

Thankyou very much for this thorough guide.The comprehensive description of each exercise, the muscle groups responsible and how to safely train them especially exertion vs injury pain. Will be rewatching many times in the future!

@aliciahull Год назад

I’ve been trying to piece together this information from so many sources, this is invaluable, thank you!

@williamgodfrey7256 Год назад

This is the most structured detail video I’ve been able to find about climbing strength progression thank you!!!

@leoingson Год назад

Wow, HUGE video! This will make my evening (and plan hopefully). Thanks in advance!

@lllogggs Год назад

After years of climbing and training i can confirm this is the best, most efficient off the wall training workout suggestions and strategies to implement into a program. And will definitely eliminate “garbage” miles. Thanks guys.

@loganladd1523 Год назад

Great video! Some really good concepts in there explained well. Nice work and thanks .

@ponsilliusvii6290 Год назад

Amazing content man, forwarded to all my climbing mates this is so useful :)

@justenminnocci9562 Год назад

This is an invaluable resource you all have created. Thank you, I see myself coming back to this video many times throughout my training. ❤

@HoopersBeta Год назад

That's exactly why we created this :) Thank you for the kind comment.

@fredpilk7759 Год назад

@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much for this video! I did the inverted rows on the rings for the first time yesterday and I feel like i've been hit by a train .. in a good way :P :D

@tomerb37 Год назад

Thank you so much guys, this is exactly what I needed. Should be the go to video for every climber looking to get into training for climbing.

@nicholasb9279 5 месяцев назад

As somebody coming from weight training to climbing who loves the science behind everything as well as the balance between "the most optimal" vs what is realistic and necessary, this video and this channel is absurd. It's incredible. Thank you.

@HoopersBeta 4 месяца назад

Thank you for the kind words!

@andyyy.climbs Год назад

Amazing video! I have been looking for specific exercise recommendations with proper technique demonstrations and this popped up in my feed just at the right time.

@dustinspinner2040 Год назад

Thanks for this mega guide. You guys rock.

@MP-bx3uj Год назад

Started watching. Got really stoked. Saving for later when I can write notes and focus on this epic content. Thank you for sharing!!!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Nice! That sounds like a great plan. Happy to hear of the stoke :)

@juaresbarbosa3833 Год назад

Wow absolutely awesome! Thank you very much. Would you consider a similar video for mobility?

@ethanharley8805 Год назад

Impressive content! Looking forward to unpack in more and helping me with my climbing programming. Hand board form 101 and leg training to include balance are nice take aways at first glance.

@alicelarpthaveesarp1400 Год назад

Saved and shared! Thank you so much for such great info!

@quoozie Год назад

Super informative and well presented! Love it

@PS-nm8wk Год назад

Thank you for this awesome video. As always, you managed to keep it light with some humor in there, so it's fun to watch. Train, climb, send, make a video, repeat please!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Hah I like the modified version :) Thank you for the kind words!

@John-mi9dx Год назад

Really went all out for this video, much appreciated

@andriussadauskas4317 Год назад

As always, amazing video, 12 points from 10 😄 thanks for sharing!

@soumyajitmandal6595 Год назад

Jason, thanks so much for this! I am so happy that I reached out to you in the past and cannot recommend enough your contents to my friend :)

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you for the kind comment and support, Jit! I hope you're doing well :)

@varunagarwal2470 Год назад

This a very thorough video, thank you so much for all the super detailed technical information.

@Rosenblut001 Год назад

You've blessed so many people with this video. Thank you very much! It is so well made and structured, packed with only relevant information. I'll be definiteley coming back to this. Thanks a lot!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thanks for the kind words!

@borisbolshoi7317 Год назад

I really appreciate the time and effort you've spent on this video. I feel like there is a probably a section or few for everyone that they can use that's specific to them.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you! That was one of our goals :)

@jussisihvonen3152 Год назад

Thank you so much. This is invaluable!

@Djdavidnyan Год назад

Thanks a lot, this was an excellent video! I will use to focus my training plan in what is going to drive better climbing! Thx!!❤

@Rockmaster867 Год назад

Just WOW! Thank you so much for that video. As a pretty new climber, THIS is exactly what I needed to boost my progress!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Awesome! We are all stoked to hear that! 💪

@sjoerddejong7601 Год назад

Oh heck yeah! An hour long video from Hooper's Beta featuring Dan Beall. I'm waiting to put this on my TV when I get home :D

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Yew! Grab some popcorn, or just any delicious snack I suppose ;)

@haidarfakih2987 Год назад

I deeply appreciate the effort and care put into this video. Thank you so much!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@stitch3163 Год назад

Wow! This is an extraordinarily helpful and educational video. Thanks to you, Dan and the crew for putting this together.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Our pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it.

@Jen-vp7gt Год назад

Wao 1 hour of full information! This is really amazing! You are leveling up the climbing skills of many and preventing I juries for even more! This video is amazing for the ones that are going from intermediate to advanced climbing and don't really know where to start!

@wrongbeta Год назад

Dude, masterclass! Thank you for this, def the best climbing channel out there.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you for the kind compliment! We definitely appreciate it.

@martins.5184 Год назад

Thank u for making this

@SpeciesV1X Год назад

This is gold for training!

@WesHuesos Год назад

LOVE THIS VIDEO. Thanks Dr. Hoops!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you! We love this comment ;)

@noevidencebasedopinion8776 Год назад

A thousand Thanks ! Megagiga quality content. You are gold on internet

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you for the kind words! The entire team appreciates hearing that :)

@Roubainx Год назад

10/10 content. I am going to become a member to support this content

@Carlito2046 7 месяцев назад

Awesome! Great structure, explanation and detail. Will never need another video on training for climbing ❤

@i0am0hamm Год назад

This video is awesome, thank you!

@frost9239 4 месяца назад

Been scouring for this gem thank you sm

@metyu3730 Год назад

Great vid, tones of information, thank you!

@harlimaw Год назад

Thank you! What a treasure of a content!

@user-fr4oq5wr5s Год назад

The quality of this video is purely outstanding! Thank you so much

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Glad you enjoyed it!

@thekye Год назад

Great vid, covered a lot of ground. Great to get this higher level with a whole picture view,

@karstdeviz3858 3 месяца назад

Thank you so much for this video! I'm so grateful for all this information. I also love how you can see Dan is thoughtful about every word he is saying, not making it too complex but also not too simple.

@HoopersBeta 3 месяца назад

Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for the kind words + feedback!

@robbory Год назад

wow what an incredible video, thank you

@alan_long Год назад

Thought this was awesome! Tons of great info laid out in a really clear way with great examples. I did notice that this focused primarily on acessory training for climbing. Would love to see something in this format that covers climbing specific training (endurances protocls, strength, power endurance, etc) Thanks as always!

@olabystrom5265 Год назад

Amazing content!

@muscularibuprofen69 Год назад

Incredible and valuable resource. Thank you.

@AlessandroCaroli Год назад

Awesome content, thanks

@rosebflowin 7 месяцев назад

Incredible works guys. 🎉

@ramdop Год назад

thx for in depth and very structured video

@1990Cornetto 8 месяцев назад

Very professional coach. He knows his stuff!

@chelseaanderson3329 Год назад

Thank you for the beautifully organized and articulated training program!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Our pleasure!

@SnowmansApartment Год назад

Thanks so much, it‘s massively helpful to get a general idea what to work on and what maybe be a waste of time and energy. This is definitely one of the best climbing training videos i‘ve seen in years!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you for sharing those kind words!

@dekun007 Год назад

This is the video i needed. Thanks allot!!!!

@oliverlin5700 Год назад

Can I give more than one thumbs up? 😄 Awesome summary and explanations!🤘

@SnowmansApartment Год назад

so psyched, thank you so much for this!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Our pleasure! It was a fun mega vid to make!

@Dr4zh4r66 Год назад

Great video! The most relevant exercises condensed and really well explained.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you for the support and kind words!

@jeremyclimbs Год назад

LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!! +1 vote for a periodisation video

@sonnsingh Год назад

Wow this is directly going into my saved list! Thank you for sharing this!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@pastrop2003 Год назад

Thank you, guys, incredibly helpful! It will make my training so much more effective, I gonna forward it to all my climbing friends who are not subscribers already (and I truly don't understand why they are not...)

@HoopersBeta Год назад

We appreciate the kind words and the support! Glad you're stoked on it!

@benjaminbarigazzi5680 Год назад

A great lower body exercise that I recommend for training hamstrings and a little bit of core stability are fitball bridges. (I will now try do describe it to the best of my abilities). You, of course, get a fitball lie down on the floor then place your feet on the ball and from there you bend your knees trying to keep your trunk/core in line with the legs. It's great because you can then progress by only doing it one leg at a time, or just using one leg for the eccentric or concentric part and then using both legs for the other part. Of you can do it with only one leg, try doing it keeping the other leg straight or bending it to reduce the intensity. Usually do 3 sets of 10 on each side and go home with my legs on fire so I hope it's usefull for others :)

@Willoops Год назад

This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thank you so much

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Glad we could help!

@aviduke 8 месяцев назад

Nice detail. +1 new subscriber from an old experienced climber

@carlosfuentes5538 Год назад

This is amazing, my life as a climber has been so much better because of you guys!

@carlosfuentes5538 Год назад

Thanks a lot for the effort put into this video.

@moonti6820 Год назад

Thank you very much for your work you are helping a ton of climbers out there me included !

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thank you! We are all happy to help!

@anjalilakra15 Год назад

so much knowledge in this video. Thanks a lot!

@marks3440 Год назад

Hamstring slider curls are pretty excellent. Mentioning this because if I’m backing off a bouldering problem, half the time it’s the hamstrings that I’m avoiding.

@ayuminor 8 месяцев назад

In the vertical pull demo preamble all I could hear is "scoopy da scapula" (5:39). Will do Dan, will do.

@Basileclimbing Год назад

Just perfect, best climbing video ever, nothing else to add.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Hah thank you! Much appreciated.

@Noshuas Год назад

I unironically love you all. Thank you.

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Haha thank you for the clear comment ;) We all appreciate your kind words.

@lizosaurusrex Год назад

Woo! Thank you guys! You're the best!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thanks so much!

@kiul6075 Год назад

Thanks!

@HoopersBeta Год назад

Thanks! :)

@andrewscott5059 Год назад

Such an excellent video, especially for people newer to external training for climbing. I had a few notes or questions on the video's contents, based on my personal experience. First, I think periodization, at least mesocycles, should have been mentioned somewhere given this is beginner focused. Many people new to strength training exclude this critical component, and as a result plateau after a few months of constant progressive overload. It's especially relevant for physical strength exercises like pullups that require a high level of recovery. Something I would have liked to hear more about specifically for climbing is machine based isolation exercises. They're maybe not the most common in climbing gyms, but they are everywhere in commercial gyms and present another unique tool for training. The one that came to mind as potentially valuable was be a seated row machine, as a replacement for barbell/dumbbell rows. The ability to prevent "cheating" on the movement by keeping it to a shoulder exercise (removing the possibility of using the back) seems valuable, and with the right machine it also gives you more options for wrist positioning. The downside would be lowering the use of other stabilizing muscles, but I would love to hear what you think about it. Another question I have for you is one of specificity and timing: How should somebody of any skill level determine an efficient ratio between climbing, climbing specific training, and more GPP training? I know this question is probably impossible to answer without a whole video on it, but at the very least I'd like to know a good way of telling when somebody should first consider starting more general training to complement their climbing, and maybe a solid time/fatigue ratio for climbing/sport specific training to general training among intermediate to advanced climbers (v7-11ish).