How to Troubleshoot a Samsung Dryer that is Not Heating 

As an electrical engineer and maintenance technician this is the BEST video repair ever - you are the BEST . Now off to use your fantastic work and get the drier working - well done and THANKS

Hi Bill. Ran my dryer for a few hours yesterday and noticed we had no heat. My husband arrived home from working out of town to a frustrated wife. I would like to thank you for.. first of all... very clear and easy to see video... then for the straight forward instructions. You literally made it that a child could follow the directions. We're off to town to buy a new element. Thanks to your troubleshooting info we got down to the element... took it apart and found a broken coil. You saved us a bundle. We live out in no mans land and the service fee is more than the dryer. Thank you so much. PS I checked your videos and didn`t see instructions on how to remove and take apart the heater and element. Had to go to another video source for that... I got the gist of it but man the video was of poor quality... bouncing all over.

So easy for this most common issue with Samsung dryers! Searched other sites and wasted some time then found this and answered all pertinent questions, I like how you didn't make us watch the turning of every little screw that needs to be removed to access the element ;-) pertinent info much appreciated!

This video worked like a dream. I am a petite 62 year old woman who followed it and was able to fix my dryer for the cost of the part about $30.00. Thank you Repair Clinic.

I never comment on videos but I have to say thank you. I disassembled it with your other video and just tested each component exactly as you did. Everything was exactly the same until I tested the high limit thermostat and I got nothing. I ordered one for $5 and it fixed it. Thank you for making this video. You saved me 100’s of dollars.

Thanks Bill, I just used both videos to troubleshoot and replace the heating element in my Samsung dryer. Your videos were most helpful...six years later. My dryer isn't even that old.

Thanks Bill. Magic. Using your approach here and your disassembly video, I was able to diagnose a malfunctioning element. I was pleased to see the broken element coil when I removed it confirming I was on the right track. Ordered it for $36 on Amazon and had it back together and working the next day. Very much appreciated... Derek in Toronto

Thanks for the help. I tried the trouble shooting, but jamming the probes into the power cubes was tough. In the end, it was the element and watching your video gave me the confidence to do it myself. Thanks again.

Very well made video. Thank you so much! I've got about 4 pages of notes on your 3 videos for checking the power, dis-assembly, and troubleshooting, and going to see if I can figure out why the dryer is not heating. Great info!

Great freakin' Video! We need more like this on youtube! I'm a technical person who can do the process but this helped me through the process quickly and knowing what to check. Got all the way through. Open circuit on the element, look inside and it's broken. I just put a $200 motor in this dryer 2 months ago. Now this. Thanks for the help man!

Hey Bill, I wanted to stop and give you a big thank you. I was able to locate the issue with my dryer, replace the troubled fuse as well as the thermostat. For a $8.00 I fixed my dryer, for an additional $20 I replaced the thermostat while I was in there. One thing I would recommend your viewers is to have a vacuum cleaner close by. There was a ton of Lint on the inside of mine so I cleaned everything up quite well. Anywho, thanks again Bill for the information. It took me longer to get to the parts store and back than it did to locate the problem and to fix it.

Great video. Just fixed my 13 year old dryer heating element. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without these videos of yours. Thanks!

This is a great video. Helped me fix my dryer by learning it was the heating element! Saved me a bunch of money and headaches

You make great videos with good content. Just getting started in appliance repair and you've been my go to for info. Thanks.

Thank so much Sir, for taking the time to pass on these testing tips. I will be able to help my brother and sister in law repair their dryer. Now they won't need to hang up wet clothes to dry!

Hey Bill, thank you for this very useful video. I have spared 160CAD$ + Tax and 3 weeks minimum wait. I ended up spending about 70$ by replacing just he heater box elements. - The Mobo relay test was a great saving feature. - You ROCK!

Hey bill! Big fan of your videos! You may have already realized this about testing the relay on the board. A really important detail for testing that relay is to make sure that one of the leads on the element are disconnected. The reason being is that you will have voltage coming from the motor back up to that relay which will give you a false reading. Not trying to be a critic. Love your videos. I’ve had other technicians watch them as a way of training.

Awesome videos Bill. Just replaced the heating element and belt. Awesome instructions!

Good instructions, clear and precise on what to look at and where faults can be causing a no heat situation. Upon disassembly of the dryer front panel to access the testing of the units element, high limit and such the light switch on top of the door plug would not come undone. Finally it gave way and sent me to the ER and 5 stitches in my left thumb. My dryer without heat was tested to show that the thermal cut off needs to be replaced. Sadly on Friday night when I sliced my finger I assumed it was the element and that arrived.... +2 more days without dryer.

just used this vid to diagnose my dryer............it was the heating coils. Ordered from Amazon and they will be here Monday. Thank you!

Thanks, Bill, your instructions on how to test for a working heater relay were incredibly helpful. Was hoping you'd have additional insight into my dryer not heating, even after replacing all of the related components (even the ones that passed continuity tests) Context: Dryer stopped heating after replacing tensioner/idler pully arm assembly after the wheel failed. Reseated the belt and dryer ran beautifully again, except it was not putting out any heat. Steps taken: - Tested voltage at outlet (246V) - Continuity check on heating element and related component - Ran dryer with vent hose disconnected - Replaced all heating-related components in phases (1. thermal fuse & thermostat on heating element housing, 2. other thermal fuse and thermistor, 3. heating element) and tested dryer after each phase - Rechecked all related and accessible wiring connections were secure - Did your test on heater relay, blue wire to ground went from 0V not running to 120V while running So it seems 120V are going to heating element when dryer is running and all components pass continuity test AND have been replaced anyway (including heating element). Yet, still no heat! Any ideas on additional troubleshooting and/or solutions would be appreciated.

Super helpful video, was able to follow it and trace the problem down to a bad thermal cut-off. I am appreciative you took the time to make such an excellent step-by-step guide.

Bill, you have saved me twice with the band and heating element troubleshooting. Thank you so much. Very valuable info.

Thank you for thoroughly diagnosing the dryer. I found my High was not continuous!

Thank you for this video! I was able to diagnose that I had a bad heating element in the dryer. Again, thank you. Now I get to fix it and put the damn thing back together!

Thanks for the great video, saved me a lot of spurious amazon purchases, and got me to test what needed to be tested. Element had a hairline crack, could not see it. Thanks!

Great video. The other videos I watched had people gutting their machine to to trouble shoot a no heat problem. Mine was the relay. saved me a lot of trouble.

Very helpful, thank you for posting

Thanks for the solid and clear advice. Found the problem and fixed it with a $5 part in less than an hour.

Thank you! GREAT VIDEO, this is exactly why I love youtube.

Great video! This helped me element the heating element is bad in my dryer. Thanks!

Great video and thanks for saving me money.

thank you so much i find it extremely helpful to have other techs making video's!! much appriciated could you make a video on the centrifugal switch and how to test that?

Great video to troubleshoot your Samsung dryer. In my case the problem was the heating element, which I suspect is the high runner fault. You'll need to watch other RU-vid videos to get instruction on how to disassemble/reassemble the dryer, and how to remove/reinstall the heating element. The last part is a little tricky, and I advise wearing gloves to do so because the heating element case has sharp edges. Kudos to Bill Newberry.

It's 10:30 pm on a Thursday night and my wife emerges from the laundry room saying, "Umm, the dryer is not drying the clothes. Can you take a look?" Since I had to work all day Friday and it was the start of a 3 day weekend, I knew I had to diagnose the problem that night and get the part on Friday. Your video saved the day! I dismantled that Samsung dryer and diagnosed a bad heating element. Luckily a local parts supplier - Ideal Appliance Parts in New Orleans, LA had the part in stock!Thank you, sir!

Bill thanks a bunch for making this video!! You saved me a lot of money and taught me a couple things in the process. Heating element replaced and back up and running. Do you have a video that shows how to trouble shoot when the dryer sensor doesn't work properly?

Great thank you for uploading

Great Guy, Great Video. Saved me tons of time and Hundreds of $$$$$$.Thank you!!!!!!!

I found the solution to my My Samsung dryer DV330!!! It was simpler than I thought :-) kept blowing the high limit thermostat. I replaced the high limit thermostat (manually reset it as many times as I could first), thermo cut-off fuse, heating element, cycling thermostat, AND the thermistor. They all had continuity but I replaced them anyway, and the thermister was reading the correct ohms when I did resistance test at room temp. I also cleaned the heck out of the dryer hose, filter, and blower wheel pipe to make sure air flow was good. I even ran it with no dryer hose but was still over heating. I checked the relay switch on the main control board and confirmed it was operating correctly. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why it kept over heating and tripping the high limit thermostat. Eventually I bypassed the thermostat with the higher temperature thermo fuse and ran the dryer at 10 minute intervals, but then I figured out the root of the problem! It was the blower seal and the seal on the dryer filter cover. The foam gasket had become so depressed, that gaps in the seal allowed the blower to suck in cooler air from out side the dryer drum. This meant that the air running past the cycling thermostat and the thermister was cooler than it actually was within the drum. SOLUTION: I thickened the seal of the blower wheel and dryer filter cover with electrical tape and covered the gaps with electrical tape, this ensured the blower wheel was sucking in 100% of the hot air thru the dryer filter, and none of the cooler air outside of the dryer drum. After doing this, to my surprise the heating element was cycling on and off in like 2 minute intervals like it should, no more over heating and tripping the high-limit thermostat!! Before I corrected the seal, the heating element would never turn off, it would stay on for like 8 minutes and then blow the thermostate. Not anymore!!

thank you so much for your videos!!! I just fixed mines thanks to you thank you!!!🤗🤗🤗👍👍👍

Thanks for the video buddy you helped me fix mine

Great video. Thanks!

Thank you Bill!

pulled one and fixed it with your help thanks

When checking the "no heat but motor running " you do need to check both wires for individual voltage. This is the first test you do after UNPLUGGING your input electrical cable from the wall outlet. Disconnect the blue wire from the relay being careful it is not contacting any metal surface. When you plug back into the wall it may be "live" and if it touches you or a metal conductive surface you will have the potential for an electrical discharge; enough so that you could be killed so unless you feel comfortable about your abilities stop here. When the dryer is off but plugged back in you should have 120V on the black wire terminal at the relay and 0V on the unplugged blue wire. When the dryer is energized like in the video (and on one of the heat settings) you should show 120V on each wire (blue wire is still disconnected so be extremely careful not to touch it by hand or ground it). If you have 120V on each wire while test running this indicates that the "heating" circuit is working correctly. If you have no (or less than 120V) voltage on the blue wire then test your element and other sensors for the faulty piece. There really isn't a need to test the relay because if you have 120V individual voltage on each wire you know that the relay is not connecting the 2 wires to complete the circuit. This would indicate another problem.

Thanks Bill!

Thanks for your videos!! Very helpful! You helped me fix my dryer and saved me money!

Samsung DV395 stopped heating -all fuses, heating element, thermistor, relay checked out. Found wiring harness was in contact with drum, which resulted in insulation wearing off and significant arc between the two. Samsung instructed me to pound sand - which really doesn't help to dry clothes. I am guessing the board has an issue - any useful thoughts?

Thanks so much

Did all this and everything checked out good. Cleaned thoroughly and I suppose lint was blocking a sensor? Not sure what I did but it is working great 👍. Changed out belt and idler pulley.

You sir, have saved me a nice chunk of change. After using your test method I determined the heating element was bad. I pulled it and the heating coil was broke in the middle. Thank you very much!

Thanks so much. Part on order and hoping to get a few more years out of this 20 year old samsung

Thanks for the very helpful video. I have an issue that my red wire to the heating element burns the wire off the connector about every 4-6 months and I am constantly repairing it. I have mad sure to use the high heat connectors. Can you think of any reason this keeps happening? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Found the problem at 0:23. Thank u

Thanks man! My heating element broke and I found it quickly thanks to you.

So many other videos teach parts removal and replacement. You provide info to execute diagnostics.

Hey Bill, Video was very informative. The only problem I got is my thermal cut off is showing 75.0 ohms. Does that mean it needs to get replaced?

Thank you Bill, you saved me a $75 service call

@Bill Newberry when I'm checking the power coming in, I'm not getting anything on the blue wire or the black wire, but the dryer will run, and the power is checking out at 120/240 on the terminal blocks for the power cord. Am I doing something wrong here?

dang good video

Great video. Followed steps and found thermister was fried. Ordered on Amazon and it worked like magic. I think insted of checking the Ohms resistance of all 3 parts, just checking if it's not fried that's 0 ohms ( No beep) should be enough , right?. Mine was not beeping on multi meter. So means its faulty. Thanks once again.

Thanks again Bill for saving our butt again. Our dryer wasn't heating so I used this video and the troubleshooting one to replace the thermostat.

in order to get the service code is there a certain sequence of buttons to push on the control panel?

@billnewberry Thank you! Got it done today based a lot on your video!! Cheers

Excellent instructions! I followed the procedures until I got to the heating element which was faulty. The entire assembly cost less than the element alone. Thanks!

Hello sir. I have been following your troubleshooting with a Samsung dryer that is operating, but not producing heat. I have tested the relay (around 1:05 in your video), and I am getting around 118-119.5 volts). I am currently testing the thermistor resistance from the black harness (around 3:05 in your video), and I am not getting a reading whatsoever. Before I start testing the other parts would you recommend me replacing the thermistor at this time and retest?

Thanks.

Hey bill i have a dumb question the thermo cut off on this front loads is the same as the thermo fuse on the old ones i assume it is but you know .......

Hi Bill, if the multimeter detect 120V at the black wire connected to the heater relay but not the blue wire. So it means my heater relay has problem?

Everything checks out great exactly how you showed on this video but heater don’t work

Does the layout of the wiring harness on the heating element stay the same for all Samsung dryers? I've seen a couple different layouts.

Do you have any of finding out the value or the color codes for the R53 and R57 resistors at the edge of the board behind the relay? My relay was smoked and so are those resistors!

If you order a replacement heater on Amazon, read the reviews carefully. Some are jUNK, fail early. The one I bought did not last 8 months. 36% gave an Amazon part 1 star.

Great video. I am now stumped. Dryer runs fine, no error codes but doesn't heat. Checked everything you described and all checks out fine. Both thermal fuses intact, thermistor resistance OK, high limit OK, heating element OK. Where to next? thanks. joe

Hey Bill great videos, I've started through them all when my dryer (Samsung DV7000 just over 1 yr old) stopped heating. I think I've been through all the trouble shooting, but I can't seem to find the problem: Venting/exhaust free from excess lint, proper voltage from cord, proper voltage through motor and heater relays, correct resistance on the three fuzes on the heating element (Thermostat 3, Thermostat2, Heater) and correct resistance on Thermistor and Thermostat1 (near the motor). Any other ideas what may be preventing my dryer from heating?

Hi Bill, I have a Samsung dryer. It stopped spinning and no heat. All the screen light up. When I press the start button I hear a click sound around the control board. I did check the belt and is good.

I have a Samsung Dryer model dv395etpawr/a1 and just did all these test after I had bought a new heating element assembly assuming it was the heating element. But to my suprise everything checked out just like your video and I still have a dryer that doesnt heat. Its been cleaned of lint etc.. Any suggestions to what it might be.

Since I bought SAMSUNG washer and dryer I have had nothing but problems! Miss greatly my Kenmore machines had for over 20 years and never had ANY problem EVER.

Hi Bill, Great video. I have a questions though. My Samsung dryer keeps tripping the circuit breaker @ Normal Run 5 - 10 min (High heat), Air Dry (no heat) 15 - 20 min. There is an "Electrical burning smell" when it trips breaker but nothing inside the dryer looks burnt. A new circuit breaker has been installed and the dryer is 5 years old. Please advise.

Nice

Hi Bill, my dryer Samsung DV45H63000EG/A3 has a double heating element, I tested the elements, thermostat and they are good. The only thing I missed checking was the Relay. The process to check should be the same as you explained, correct?

Thanks! This was helpful

Your a god among men

on the heating element which one is likely to blow, the thermo cutoff.. or thermistor ?

thanks...

Hey Bill, I know this is a really old video but thankfully I stumbled upon it. You did a great job making this video, very professional. Question: you tested the thermistor on the control board and got xxx kohms based on the room temp. You then tested the same thing on the heating unit but you didn't call it the thermistor but called it a "high temp cutoff". Isn't the high temp cutoff switch and the thermistor aren't the same thing? Other videos call this item attached to the heating unit a "thermistor". If this is indeed the thermistor, shouldn't it be showing xxx kohms based on the room temp and not 0.1 ohm (direct short/or Normally Closed)? These "thermistor or high temp cutoff" are set to open up at around 250-260deg F. Am I mistaken here? This is my confusion and thank you.

great vid!!! I was wondering if you could give a good pic of the wiring on the heating element assembly?

Bill:Thank you for the wonderful video. My display did not show any error code on it. After taking the dryer apart. The element is reading 10 kilo-ohms, thermostat has continuity but the cutoff has no continuity. I ordered the part for the cutoff and put the new one on and it heat up for a minute and after that there is no more heat to it. What else is the problem? Everything is the same except the cutoff is broken. Looking forward to your reply.

Hey folks, For the morons who keep saying "Don't buy Samsung, it's junk", and other similar comments, see if you can keep up with me... People looking at this video are likely the ones who already HAVE a Samsung which is no longer working. So what sense would it make to tell them not to buy one? How about contribute something positive or just don't contribute. And for the record, I have a Samsung. It's not heating. It's also 8 years old and this is the first problem we've had with it - so I would disagree that they're all "garbage".

DV45H7000EW/A2 is the model i have i have gone through all the steps change high limit both thermostat the thermistor and the heating element i still get no heat and when i run the smart install test i get HE code could it be the main board

Hello, I have Samsung Dryer Model DV419AEW XAA. It stopped heating a few months ago. I took the unit apart and found a broken Heating element. Got a replacement from Sears and installed. Heating problem solved. Now that was in August, Now Middle of October and have the same problem. This time bought 2 elements and took the system apart again. This time heating element seems fine. Replaced it anyway. Checked all the ohms on Element at 9.7, Thermostat High Limit = .2 and Thermal Cutoff =.2. Also Checked the Voltage on relay = 120 on Black not running but on, Blue Non, but when Turned on 120 on Blue and Black. I'm out of ideas. Any good suggestions would be appreciated

I have no power coming out of the relay to the heating element can u replace just the relay or do you have to replace the whole module

Well Bill, Thanks for this info. However on my Kenmore (Samsung) Dryer, there is one other possible reason why you don't get heat. While one side of the AC line (Line 1) gets switched by the relay on the control board, the other side of the line gets switched by a centrifugal switch on the motor itself (this is a safety feature: no motor, no heat, no fire). In my case I found an extremely corroded connection on the bottom terminal of the centrifugal switch connector. I ended up having to modify the connector itself so I could terminate the switched Line 2 separately. Not sure you can buy the harness from a parts supplier???

Great video. Thanks for posting. It does seem like you should verify the voltage across the relay contact as well as the voltage to the frame from each leg since you wouldn't be able to tell for certain if you had feedback from the other incoming hot leg of the 240V circuit by just measuring both legs to the frame. If the relay closes properly, the voltage across the contact will go to zero when it closes, as well as getting the reading you showed of 120V from each leg to the grounded frame.

I am getting 85 Volts on the other side of the relay, should I replace the whole board?

I have a Samsung dryer model number DV203AEW. I got it free from someone cause even after replacing the element, still no heat. I tested all, thermistor, hi-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off and heater relay. With the dryer plug-in, not turned on, I get 120 volts from the blue wire to ground and 120 volts from the black wire to ground. I get the same when dryer turned on. Can you please give me some ideas to what might be the problem? It blows cold air...:-(

Hello Bill, I like your video tutorials, I had leaned a lot thanks. Question: My refrigerator is freezing food inside food compartment what could be the reason. Thanks in advance for your help/advice.

Hi Bill Great video. I think you're missing one critical part of the diagnostics which is to test Thermistor and High-limit Thermostat parts that are attached to blower unit. Can you please also include how to test "Thermistor" and "High limit Thermostats" in this video and repost it? As far as I know if the Thermistor or High limit thermostat do not function well then the main control board would not receive the proper commands to switch on or off the heating element. Please note in a dryer there are 2 places where the thermistor and high limit thermostats are connected. One at the heating element unit and rest of the 2 are at the blower unit. I think it is better an expert like you give us an idea how to test those 2 parts attached to blower unit

Decent video. Diagnosed and fixed my dryer. Gotta say though, it would be nice if you'd say what the problem was if you DIDN'T get a normal reading on the multimeter. I also agree with a previous comment: No need to remove drum. Which is critical if you're repairing a stackable unit in a tight space. You can get to and remove heating element from front.

is there a moisture sensor on these that prevents them from heating without wet cloths inside?