I must admit I lost your thread a few times, but I understood the basics, so I watched it again. A very informative video, and once again, you showed how to fix what would be impossible for the layman to understand until you explained it all. Well done,
Decades ago now, I was a VW 'nut'. Had various examples of all 4 types. What I remember most is the never-ending struggle with 6 volt electrical systems, with the dreaded voltage drop.
Mustie, I needed the charging system wiring on my bug project and I figured you did a video. Thanks! How cool is it that this information will be around for anyone to use forever. People like u Rock!
Super helpful video. I have a 67 bug that burned out two batteries in a row so I thought to check alternator. Followed the procedure you laid out and found that the alternator didn't spin at all when I hooked the battery straight to it. I can see a little damage inside the alternator, not sure if it affected the brushes at all, but it wouldn't spin whatsoever.
Yea it sounds good, only problem is gens don't put out a lot of power. But yea at least the old school stuff is easier to work on. Alternators aren't all that complicated either. Good stuff here man, I miss seeing people workin on this stuff. It was old when I started wrenching but was more common.
Awesome video! thanks 7min 20 did the trick for me.. !! If left speedo bulb does not light when ignition is switched on, charging system will not activate! My problem was bulb was blown! Thanks!!
Thanks Mustie, very useful, brushes fixed my issue, old ones only 500 miles old ( seems a very short life) so was the last thing I checked, but you helped save me a fortune in replacement parts so thanks again for youtubing
Great super helpful. My type 3 has an issue not sure if it’s the voltage regulator or generator now I can skip the repair shop. Put new battery in last month and it died yesterday had to push start it. I noticed my lights were getting dim too.
I got a 76 Toyota Truck and a 76 Toyota Celica, The Celica is having the light come on and it will only run for 8 seconds unless reving it high, this video has me headed to swap voltage regulators sine they do unplug and are the same 22r(e?), Motovating video,Thanks Mustie
Generator; also make sure the brushes are not worn down to nothing and that they move freely up/down in their brush holders! Regulator to do: clean all external connections pop the cover and clean the relay contacts inside! Remember electricity 101; clean connections as well as clean ground connections, ground straps Engine/Transaxle to chassis, Battery to Chassis;....
@mustie1 I'm having an issue with sputtering and backfiring when driving but at idle it runs perfect. I have been through just about everything and can find nothing wrong. I did notice that the headlights were dim and at one point they got bright like they were supposed to be. When they did, it ran great a few minutes later, the lights went back dim and it sputtered and backfired. I'm researching the voltage regulator and came across your video. I did everything you showed in the video and all the readings were pretty much the same as what you had. My question is, can I disconnect the wire on the de side and run a jumper to the body and then test drive it to see if that clears up the issue? I wouldn't need to drive more than about 30 seconds to see if issue goes away and then I would be fairly certain that it's the voltage regulator.
Wow, just a simple blown lightbulb replaced and my generator is now charging the battery on the '71 T2 Camper bus. Yay 13.5v! Now to figure out the dash lights.......
could you give me a quick explanation why you need a red gen light on dash for charging system to work, on your video that was the only thing I didn't really get. I,m kinda thinking it completes a ground
Don't know if you even check the older comments but here goes. When I save old units for parts I always write POS on them. First off it reminds me that I don't have a spare and should watch out for one. (positive onhand supply. Second the POS stands for piece of s--t. Works for me. lol
thanks, it was helpful, my 1977 has a pancake motor and an alternator.. i get no battery light with ignition on engine not running, so i guess start with checking the bulb. do you know if i have an internal voltage regulator?
20 yrs ago i put an alternator on my 68 Bug, connect the 61 wire to DF, the B+ to D+ and threw the mechanical regulator in the trash. Read too many horror stories about the regulators sticking with contacts closed sending unfused battery power into the generator D+ lead. Alternator puts out rock solid 13.6v at idle and haven't had a lick of trouble with it.
Question If I Don't Have An Initial Power Going To The Field But After I Short The Feild Lug Then Start It Up The Light Goes Out And I Have 14.3-5 Volts When I Shut It Off And Start It Back Up It Won't Charge Again... I Don't See Any Voltage Regulator??? This Is On My VW Trike...
Great video! Will the principles also work with an alternator? Regarding the part numbers, the 019’s, etc are Bosch part numbers, not VW. To find out if a Bosch part is for a type I or II we need to dig a little further.
Very nice tutorial, if that were a pricey piece out of say a 50's car I might take the cover off the regulator and file the points on it, and see if it comes back to life, but since that's a VW regulator and I just saw a new transporter regulator for $14 on ebay meh... cool vid D-man
Greetings: From your description of the voltage at thr DF terminal, you should be able to compare the field control voltage between the good and bad regulators by noting the voltage at DF for the 2 regulators at both idle and higher revs. That way in the future you only nned to measure the DF voltage to know if the regulator is sending the correct voltage to DF. HTH
maybe you and help, I have a dune buggy that some of the wires were messed up, I have most everything sorted out except for the charge light, it has the factory alternator I think this is about a 72 model, I have no idea where to hook the wire from the alternator and also how to hook up the light on the back of the speedometer, there are 3 lights at the bottom or the speedometer and also a contact that kind of surrounds the 3 light sockets, I am at a total loss as to how to connect the charge light and wire to the speedometer.
Great video. I'm trying to figure out why my generator and voltage regulator are overheating. I'm getting 14.75 charging voltage at battery, so it looks like it's overcharging. The battery with engine off is reading 11 volts, so it looks like the battery has problems. I'm going to run your checks on the generator to make sure it's OK. Thanks again. This will hopefully be helpful. I'm going to buy a new battery and a voltage regulator if the generator tests OK. Then go from there.
What do you do when the gen light comes on and it won’t go off? We’ve put brushes in back in july. Light went out. 1050 miles later it’s back on again. We’ve changed the coil regulator taken the belt off and polarized it. Brushes look ok. Taken the 61 wire off and the light goes off on the dash. Rewired the df to regulator lights still on. All my lights are led except for turn signals. No radio...... I don’t understand what’s making the light come on. 1968 beetle
I bought my wife a 67 bug and it has bin parked since the 80s they must’ve had lots of electrical problems because there’s little notes written over inside the car with diagrams the generator doesn’t charge I just saw this video says the light Hass to work in the dash but the light does not come on with the key. It only comes on when the car starts. Wondering what your thoughts are if there’s something wired backwards
My 69 bug has an alternator. Are the tests the same? When I turn my key on the gen light does not illuminate. But I tested the bulb and the bulb is good
hi guys hope u can help ive got a vw air cooled engined trike and its sta rted to over charge up to 15 volts changed the bty but still the same its running on a alternator is it worth changing the regulater or change the whole thing /alternator how easy is it to change the fegulater any would be great
I went to fuel up at a station whilst driving the light was on. I started my engine again after and it wouldnt turn over. My red light is always on, idle or when fully running. Battery was dead but now that's been changed to a new one. Starts fine now but the red light is always on. Any ideas what I should do now?
hold up a sec here, I have 2 aircooled VW 1600 on rails and both my charging systems have dummy lights. the thing is, is the light from the "61" post of the regulator is ON when it is charging. and the light goes off if it is NOT charging. so Im confused why your goes off when it IS charging... what am I missing here?
You present the theory of the generator's function and what's what--but you got off a couple of times and interrupted the stream of information. Also--the generator warning light in the speedometer is not needed for generator function--it simply gives you an indication that the generator is function--or not. However, with an alternator, the dash light is absolutely necessary for alternator function--to excite the generating fields. The regulator for a Bus, Bug or Ghia are the same--the electrical current doesn't know the difference. I wish that you would go back through your thinking, omit the "stuff", and stream-line your presentation. That would make this a truly great video! Your show and tell is great! Go for it! jay
My generator when tested as demonstrated in the video only gets about 3 volts. I did the test with the hot wire from battery and generator spun without the belt on. This means my generator is bad right?
I have a 73 super beetle, it has a new battery, the alternator is charging , 4 months ago I replaced my new battery I bought 5 months before that because it had a bad cell, I put on metal wrapped fuel lines and they sparked on the coil when I put them on 2 months ago and today it started then wouldn't start until I jumped it. I electrical taped around the fuel lines where they sorta touch the coil wires. And it starts now, Ima gonna wait till tomorrow to see if it will start again. Thanks for any advice you can offer....
Mustie1 got in this morning and it wouldent start, lights came on wouldent turn over, then jumped it, it warmed up,turned it off ,then it started up, started up three times in a row. You have any ideas?
Just tryed to restart and it won't, unless I jump it, did a test on the neg terminal and the test light came on, when I test the fuses the windshield wiper and rear defroster fuse lights up with the tester.
i did that years ago before i converted to an reliable alternator as when the vehicle sits the generator lost its polarity as an alternator work regardless but like the generator the bulb in the speedometer has to work as i added a load equalizer resistor to the bulb if converted to LED it will work regardless if the bulb or LED is burned out. i added LED indicators in the speedometer i did this long before the Radio Shack closed here. as a 1968 bug the green light is oil used a green Led green for turn signal arrows, and red for the charging and thats where i had to add the load equalizer resistor too i tried it would not charge as the resistor is added it charges.
Newer VW's e.g. type 25 wedge transporter have the LED indicator you've mentioned. I have found most faults here are caused by mis fitting the LED into it's sockets. LED's are also polarity sensitive so have to be connected the right way round to work. This last point mostly applies to the bare LED component that's used in newer water cooled VW's since the mid 1970's mainly Golf, Polo, Jetta, Pasat and the T25,T4,T5 Transporter. The bulb like indicators used in aftermarket applications can have a rectifier circuit fitted before the LED that negates the polarity sensitive requirements when fitting but this can depend on type of indicator bought. A simple task is to check the indicator polarity both ways on installation usually complicated by the connections already present. LED's do take less current to work usually between 5 to 10 times less than the old incandescent bulb so the use of the bypass resistor is recommended 120 to 150 ohm 2 watt resistor. The transporters with the dual circuit brake warning light also have this light wired into the charge warning circuit via a diode so providing an alternative initial excitation current path in the case of bulb failure.
