HOW TO USE A DIGITAL MULTIMETER ON A CAR BATTERY 

Great. Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

@@Caliber8Tools Using your guide when my car wouldn't start, I found out my car is running at 14.4volts but with the car off the battery says 10.4. I took it out and hooked it up to a charger, hope that does the trick!

Appreciate the great observation skills.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

Great tips. Thank you.

Likewise, thank you.

Glad it helped.

Glad it helped.

@@Caliber8Tools lol it’s been so long since I’ve used mine and needed to check my marine batteries and foregot what setting I wanted it ! Faster than reading direction😂

Thanks for the feedback.

Glad it helped. The negative cable should plug into the ‘COM’ port on the meter.

wait, now I am confused. In the video you do not have any cable plugged into the COM port of your meter. Did you mean the OHMS port because thats where you have it plugged in on the video here. I hope you answer me because I am trying to see if I have an electrical problem in my charging system.@@Caliber8Tools

The black cable that goes to the negative terminal should be at the com port.

You’re welcome. Glad it helped.

Glad it helped. Btw the black lead should be connected to the common jack.

Glad it helped.

You’re welcome.

Glad it helped. De nada.

Yes.

No if it’s above 13V your ok.

@@Caliber8Tools thanks

Noted

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SJgGuMrQj9M.html

We need to look at the VDC portion of the scale because we are checking for volts. 20V is the lowest value on the scale and we don’t need anything higher. The voltage will exceed 9 or 12 when we start the car but it won’t go past 20v.

You are essentially choosing the upper limit of the scale with which you will be measuring your battery voltage, so you need to choose a number greater than the one you expect, but not so great that you'll only see a rough estimate. Too low an upper limit, and your reading will peg at that lower level, so in your example of 9v, you might see the number 9 briefly before it then shows L, even though your battery reads 12.6 when you switch to the 20 level. Think of putting a conventional speedometer in a race car. If it can read only 0-90, and your racecar is going 120 mph down the track, that speedometer would still read only 90 mph. Be careful with the settings of your multimeter, as when doing other kinds of tests you can blow out your multimeter by choosing too low a setting. When in doubt, start too high and then progress to lower settings as needed.

Any time. Could have been a faulty battery already.

I hope you got it resolved, could've been parasitic drain where something still uses energy even when the car is turned off.

Glad it helped.

It may not be totally dead. You can try to jump it or use a volt meter to check it.

could also be in the ignition switch, linkage, solenoid, starter ect. Start with the basics

Because you can still test it in its dead state also some cars start then die so that would be a other reason you'd utilize this gadget

Hello.

Meter connection looked accurate to me. What ground is the common ground younspeak of? I'm mechanically inclined and electrically a Delbert and it's so frustrating.

Why isn't this melting his wires? Like introducing to test a dewalt 20v battery and my wires melted instantly and yes it was a very cheap multimeter

If you have your test lead in Amp fused port, you have to test a certain way. Thats to test the ampers of the current through your circuit. You have to remove a wire in your circuit to do this, somewhere make your DMM part of the circuit you're testing. If you use this setting improperly, the fuse in the DMM should blow. If it's cheap, that might not have happened. If you use it above 10 amps, you're risking it even more. The only setting you should use a DMM on to test your car battery is DCV. That measures Voltage supplied by source, your battery. You can check resistances of any load you have in your car (so sensors, fuses, wires, etc) but you have to remove Voltage & shut off what you're testing or remove to bench test. High resistance can cause unexpected Voltage drop in your circuit. Low resistance can let too much through. But simply for your car battery your in DCV, & the black in comm & the red in the one with the V&Ohms symbol.

Whew 😅