Jay, a couple of points from a truck driver: 1) You want a minimum of two revolutions of strap wrapped around the drum - if the strap gets wet it can slip if the load shifts without two revolutions on the drum. 2) That loose flapping tail of the strap is called a dog ear and it is against the law. Very dangerous and is considered an unsecure load. What you showed is going to be left up to interpretation by law enforcement. If I was to use that method, I would still take a zip tie and secure it back onto the strap - zip ties are cheap. 3) The C-clamp - Negative! That would be considered an attachment point and is regulated bylaw - also the carabiner, get it gone. DOT regulates the equipment to be used to secure a load, and climbing equipment is not in the book for securing loads regardless of it weight rating. You take an authorized strap and attach it straight to an authorized attachment point. The biggest take away I want you and your viewers to take away from this is - don't get creative when securing a load. Even those two cleaver chaps at the home improvement store - those straps must be rated. If they are doing this job for hire - they are held to the same laws as a truck driver is with the securement of that load. They are required to have clearly marked load ratings on the straps they use. If you are doing business in commerce you are held to all the laws when it comes to load securement. Even private Joe hauling his motor cycle or race car needs to step up their game and use rated straps with proper attachment points that are also rated for their needs. Good straps are not that much more in price, and it lets you and everyone else know the load is secure. 4) Check your load in the first 100 miles after you secured it down and start on a trip - it is not only smart to do, but is required by law. Check the load every time you stop after that. I hauled flat beds for a number of years and loading and unloading was my Zen time. I worked where I even got to load and unload most of what I hauled. Even tarping an un-tarping a load became an art form for me. Most drivers want to drop and hook - not me. I want to control every aspect of a load I can - and get paid for it too.
This is GREAT information Chuck Howard. Thanks for sharing with our viewer family. And also, thanks for being one of those who help transport items to those who need them. Best to you! DFJ
@@iceroadtrucker2008 Leave more strap between the ratchet and the other hook when you first start ratcheting so that it has to rotate at least twice before tightening up.
@@DirtFarmerJay Maybe you should reupload cause this can be dangerous information? guy I work with used this and im sure other people are breaking the law because of this video.
Thanks russell hansen. Great to hear from you guys again. If you have any more great tips like the last one, let me know. jay@dirtfarmerjay.com. Best, DFJ
Excellent! All YT videos should be produced this well: good audio, good video, good content. No cheesy graphics, obnoxious music. Straight and to the point. Liked and subscribed.
Amen to the cheesy music. I appreciate the channels that forego the hard driving metal music intros. The ones I favor just start with content, no flourish.
Hi Jay !!! Oh man I’m 68 yrs old and I know one of the facts of life is you learn stuff everyday till you die 👍🏻 You just made my day with this video ! Man ! I used big ones strapping loads down 20 times a day driving tractor trailers. People might never forget how to ride a bicycle no matter what but since I don’t drive anymore, I only use them once in a blue moon and only tie something down on my truck or somebody else’s truck once in a blue moon. And if I haven’t done it in 7 or 8 months I can’t remember at all which way it goes. After about three or four tries, I would finally figure it out. Your idea is unbelievable. Thanks so much and I’ll never forget how to do this. I’ll tell you what….. 75% of the people in this world have no clue how to use a ratchet strap tiedown. If they want to know how to do it the easiest way ever all they Gotta do is “ look up Dirt Farmer “J” on RU-vid” 👍🏻 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ You’re The Man !!!
6:55 I drove commercially and trained flatbed drivers on load securement. Whoever told you that was full of it. That is exactly what that pawl is for, and why some have a slight notch for your finger to stay centered. Normally you don't need to manually pull it, but there are occasions you will. Everything else was good advice for the beginner. And I like the tip you showed how to deal with extra strap. I'd normally roll it up and tuck it under the strap on those little ones. In the 2in and 3in straps, you can roll it and tuck it back through the ratchet handle as you close it. One more tip: When feeding the strap through the ratchet, wind the empty ratchet until the reel openings are up and down. Close the ratchet and you can feed the strap from the bottom to the top in one motion. Then start ratcheting. And one thing you forgot, your securements (straps or chains) will normally loosen up as your load settles. If you're going more than a mile or two, stop about five or ten minutes after loading and check your securements to make sure they're still tight.
Project Farm has a great video on ratchet straps. His tests showed a 40 lb tension loss in just 30 seconds. Your advice is spot on. Re-tighten the straps before going too far.
Rob, thanks for weighing in and taking time to share your expertise in such a clear manner. Thanks particularly for your insight on the pawl notch, as well as the feeding tip for the strap when loading the ratchet. The insight about tightening the load again after it settles is GOLDEN - that will show up in another tips video, and we'll be sure to give you credit for it. Thanks again! Best, DFJ
I've used a 3/4 inch garden hose, cut it about eight inches then slice a groove in it, slap it over the end of the Angle iron on my trailer to avoid any abrasive edge on the strap. Works great. Stays in place while I'm adjusting the straps with minimal , sometimes zero pressure from the overlying strap.
@@wickedmuffin76fire hose is also good for chain protection. Leave it in hose form, cut into sections and slip over the chain. Chain will not scratch painted surfaces then, if your worried about that.
I'm another one that has always struggled with these darns crank straps. I especially like the trick on how to secure all the excess strap once the load is secure. That was very kewl. Great job and clear instructions 👍
I have been hauling pallets on a flatbed for a sawmill using much bigger straps. I don't do everything that you do. But I really like your tricks. You gave me a education today and I really appreciate your advice.I found it very helpful and entertaining.
Wow, I have used straps like this for years and feel pretty solid in my capabilities, but still learned a lot. I will be using these tips many times! Thank you!
I bought a strap. Having never used one, I tried to follow the directions on the packaging. The first thing I did was get that double roll going, filling up the mechanism quite quickly. Before even watching your video, I somehow stumbled onto your technique to undo the mess. I hopped online and found your video, and I have now avoided other mistakes I would have definitely made. Thanks for the tips and techniques!
Hi from Portland Oregon! BEST VIDEO OUT OF ALL OF THE ONES THAT I SEEN!!! 👍👍👍 @ 8:00 I will "ASSUME" all truck beds have four or more attachments (upper/lower) points. The natural of my job I have to load equipment on top of other equipment. I place "short straps" on each attachments points so I have a option of using the upper or lower depend on my load. When BORED I will remove the long strap and lube the metal racket and it will work like "butter"! Since I carry about ten or more I found different ways to roll the strap up so it is neat and 90% smaller. They will all fit in a small bag. I bought a roll of velcro from the Dollar Store and cut it to size. The elastic "hair rings" work great too. And play with the strap like a rope using the hook as a hanging point will cost you $0.00!
1. When you hook the two hooks to each other, put the hook of one side inside the hole that is behind the s part of the other hook. This is less likely to pull apart. 2. When I haul one or 2 boards or pieces of plywood, I wrap a strap all the way around the board crossing it under and when I tighten up it cinches the strap tight around the board. I leave the tailgate even with UP with boards longer than the truck bed, when I’m not hauling a lot of boards. I liked your video. I put a shop towel around the touch points of the straps on my ebike to protect the bike. Never never trust bungee cords. They are the number one cause of blindness in young people!
Good tips for those that haven’t figured it out. I formally worked at a auto parts store and often had to train people on how to use them. They should have watched your video. Just as a added tip, you can flip your receiver hitch over and use it as a spot to run strap as a anchor point to keep load from sliding also. Just takes a longer strap. Keep teaching brother. Folks out there need it.
Thanks TFDCAPT. Just gotta ask...are you a fire department captain? If so, thank you so much for serving your fellow man. If you're not, thanks for just being a great human. Best, FDJ
TFDCAPT - sorry for the delayed reply. What a great thing to be doing. I bet you love going to work everyday. What a way to live! Thanks for being a part of our viewer family. We have several friends in our community that serve in various Fire Departments. Love those guys and gals. Great people. Best Regards, DFJ
Jay: great video. Good pace and you present in a manner that is easy to follow, yet not condescending to any newbie (like myself) when it comes to securing loads. Appreciate it.
This was a major help! I’ve seen other videos demonstrating quickly how to thread it, but you took a little more time to show it, and it let me know what I was doing was correct even though it looked off.
Thank you so much for this I am a single Lady of 66 years who has to do a lot of stuff alone so use these straps often and yes I have always had a frustrating time with them but thanks too you not any more
Here's a couple of tips from a long time ratchet strap user: Always have some rubber bands on hand, when you are done using your straps, wind the strap end and store it using rubber bands, this will keep them from getting tangled,( Always store the strap and ratchet separately) When transporting PVC pipe or round objects, wrap your strap around the pipe, when you tighten the ratchet, this will cause the strap to tighten around the pipe, and will keep pieces of pipe from getting loose. From time to time apply some WD 40 to your ratchets, this will keep them operating smoothly. If you are transporting for a long time-take a break and check that your straps are still tight and in the same place where you started!
@@DirtFarmerJay No problem, BTW your advice on purchasing high quality ratchet straps was right on the money. My worst dread was loosing cargo on the road and injuring someone who was behind me!
I haven't been able to find rubber bands big enough for the purpose, but found a container with 20 10-inch bungee cords in it and they work quite well for my 2-inch straps. Now that I've seen this excellent video, I'm going to try the trick at the end to pull the loop through.
@@billnelson3605most truck stops as well as tarp/securement shops will have wide rubber bands that can used to keep straps rolled up when not in use. Might be little big for 1" straps but I use them on my 2" and 4" straps. Keeps them from unwinding from driving vibrations while stored. I like to have my straps rolled tight and keep them tight. Always roll straps with the hooks/chain on the outside. The free end will do way less damage then if you throw the hook/chain end and hit someone.
Good points. When securing a load subjected to winds from highway speeds a single twist in the strap midway helps prevent the humming and strap vibration caused by the air.
Right? I remember that tidbit of knowledge from years ago and yet I still see quite often on big rigs the straps flapping and vibrating which can cause other problems in the long haul.
Yes a twist in the strap does it weaken the strength of the strap at all ! The only thing a twist may do is get into the ratchet tumbler if you aren’t paying attention, but if your that stupid you maybe should not be trusted with the task
Yes that twist to prevent flapping is an old trick I learned as a flatbed truck driver 40 years ago. It’s not necessarily needed on a very low profile load like rebar but it’s important for taller loads.
I was going to say the same thing but you did it for me. A twist will eliminate shuttering. It always bugs me when I'm driving down the freeway and I see a strap shuttering.
@Alan 602 that’s the thing though, that humming and flapping equates to constant movement and possible loosening of the straps which is never a good thing.
Thank you Chuck Howard and DFJ! DFJ thank you for the detail in setting up the strap! I use one at work and have no problem operating it but when I have to put it back together I am usually screwed. Your camera work shows how to do it in detail. Thank you for that!
I've been using these for years, always confused on how to use them. Now thanks to your video, it was very edicational. I am now a strapping expert. thank you. Dirt Farmer Jay.
Who ever knew something as simple as a ratchet strap could be so misunderstood? What I learned from your video: Stop storing the straps with the long end rolled onto the crank; instead, start with the strap separated from the crank. ( I've always tried to avoid pulling the strap all the way out of the crank because I was never quiet sure how it was "supposed" to go back in.) This takes me to what I learned from reading through the comments: As you demonstrated in the video, start with the ratchet arm facing away from the load. Next, close the ratchet arm but be sure the slot is in a position to easily insert the strap through from the load facing side and out the other side. Do not pull too much slack out of the strap, you want at least 2 full revolutions of the strap on the drum. You can put a single twist in the strap to reduce wind noise and strap wear. Use only transportation approved fasteners and fasten points.
A couple of years ago, I had a couple of the big binder type paperclips laying around. I folded up my excess strap and secured everything with that binder paperclip and it works like a charm. I've used the same two binders for over 2 years and it still works flawlessly.
Reed, I just came across your comment again, and wanted to thank you for this. In fact, we are doing another video shortly mentioning that the job of securing the load is not finished until the strap tail is secured as well. We plan to use your technique as one of the ways to do this and will mention you when we do. Thanks for being a part of our viewer family! Best Regards, DFJ
As a flatbed truck driver, I’d say you’re not wrapping enough strap around the barrel of the ratchet. The strength of the hold doesn’t come from the small hooks and small plate. It comes from the wrap mostly. The more wraps you can get, the better. Leave a little slack, don’t tug tight before ratcheting. Get a good 2-3 wraps around the barrel. That won’t cause jamming and will hold more securely. Also, if you don’t want your strap to flutter in the wind, put one half rotation on one side, flat across the top, and one half rotation on the other side with feeding the strap through the barrel flat. Still, have 2-3 wraps around the barrel. This will not only be a stronger hold than shown here, but it’ll prevent the strap from fluttering in the wind. Hope this helps.
Incognito Burrito (love the screen name!), thanks for writing. This is good stuff. Watch for another video where this information will be incorporated. Best Regards, DFJ
Here is a tip for you. Don't insert the strap the way you are doing it with the lever open. You should ratchet the drum until the slot is perpendicular to the automatic pawl/spring catch/release tab, then you shut the lever. This makes it so you can lace the strap through the drum and not have to thread it back through the lever. Two actions instead of three. Makes it easier when it is cold and with gloves on.
Aztec Warrior - thanks! We've had other viewers write in and counsel the same thing. I'm adopting your way and will feature it in an upcoming episode. Thanks for watching, and taking time to write - best regards, DFJ
Just fyi, your ratchet strap is not at its full strength without at least 3 complete turns around the drum. You are creating a tensionless anchor by rotating the strap around the drum.
Like one commenter already mentioned, always twist the strap that goes cross the load to prevent it vibrating agaist the surface, long journey and the surface is ruined. It does not weaken the strap at all, only knots do. Sometimes (usually...) even professional truckers leave the straps flat and straight. My usual boat transporting trucker once said that those "flat strappers" are the ones with a peanut in the place of brains.
Love it. Indeed, in another video we did, we mentioned that tip, but have a new edition coming out of "best viewer tips" for using ratchet straps. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
Suggestion…if you have a fair distance between the end hook and ratchet and the strap is exposed to the wind, it will flutter like crazy in the wind. A couple of twists in the section under tension will prevent flutter. Learned this from a trucker with ratchet straps used every day. Used the trick in the white bimini straps on my boat. Stops flutter completely. JoeB
I'd like to add that if your strap will be in free air as you drive ( like over a tall item) it's actually better to have twists in it to keep it from vibrating.
thank you for making this video help me set it with in seconds. Wish I found your video before the first three. I recommend they watch your video to learn the quick and proper way. Thank you
Some great advice there!I've been troubled by ratchet straps for ages ,ended up using rope,now I know how to really use them!Many thanks, you're a great teacher!
Thanks for the compliment David Coleman. I did a lot of public speaking in my career and learned that if it's not engaging, people won't keep listening, Thanks for the imput. Best to you, DFJ
@@guardianmatthew143 Well I'm glad you find them so easy!There's probably something that I can do easily that you haven't got a clue about but then I wouldn't be so childish as to put you down about it on social media!Remember YOU might need help with something some day!
Thank you! I was doing it backwards. Took me 30 minutes to untangle my mess. Wow! These are going to be so handy for camping and securing paddleboards.
I use ratchet straps twice a year when I trailer a boat. I always foul them up. Thanks for tips. Hopefully the process will go much smoother this season.
Great tips Jay. I have used ratchet straps for many years now, mainly for securing atv's and side by sides. A tip from me is make sure you have at least one full turn of the strap barrel with the strap when tightening. This way when the suspension of any machine works ( or anything that may flex) it won't loosen the strap on the barrel.
😊 thank you soo much! I'm a pretty handy chickie, but these things, sheesh, they have always been an enigma in my family- no one ever knew what tf they were doing. LoL Big ups to you, Good Sir! 👍🏼
I have successfully used ratchet straps to seat the bead on tubeless tires as I don't have a compressed air bead seater. A small one for the front tire of a zero turn mower and a medium one for a vehicle or front end tractor tire. It's possible that a large one would work for a rear tractor tire as a lot of squeezing pressure can be created. It's been the cat's meow several times for my situation.
Dean, this is brilliant! We may feature this in an upcoming video and we'll give you credit for it. Any other creative uses for ratchet straps that come to mind? Best, DFJ
Here is another creative use....to "square up" a leaning arbor before securing it with corner supports. Secure the hook of the long strap to the upper corner of the arbor that is leaning away from the center. Secure the hook of the mechanism side to the opposite bottom corner. Connect the straps and begin ratcheting until the leaning corner is pulled back into square. Once squared up, secure top rails with corner supports.
Brilliant! If only I had watched this video years ago... Some folks have the inspired ability to see minor complexities, like ratchet straps, and think through to the obvious application of the device. These individuals are less than one-tenth of one percent of the population.
Day before yesterday I saw a beautiful piece of ratchet strapping on the roadside & thought someone's strap had loosed & fell off, so turned around to retrieve it. It was a heavy duty 2 inch yellow strap. I was surprised to see it had ripped apart at the ratchet even though it was brand new. Upon closer examination I discovered it was a 16 foot loose end that must have been dragging & blowing in the wind, until the end flopped under a wheel. When the wheel rolled forward on top of the strap it provided enough tension to RIP this 2,000+ pound test strap apart. I saw the rubber tire tracks on the strap that solved the mystery. LESSON BEING, never neglect securing the loose end of a strap! If it was the primary strap holding the load, it could easily cause a fatal accident if the load fell off resulting in someone behind running over it or died trying to avoid it.😖
Ronald, I've seen the same thing happen, and actually saw a strap, much like what you describe, on one of our roads about 2 weeks ago. It too was snapped in half - evidence of a loose end trailing in the wind and the vehicle running over it. Bad news, for all the reasons you describe. Loose ends can also get wound up in the drive shaft, with very poor outcomes. Indeed, securing the end is just as important as securing the load. In fact, if the end isn't secured properly, then the load isn't secured properly. Thanks for emphasizing that point. Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay I followed a flatbed 18 wheel tractor trailer one day, 70mph, that had a heavy duty chain dragging on the pavement, throwing sparks, near the trailers right side wheels. I couldn't warn the truck driver, he was in the left lane on interstate hwy and I was in the right lane and shy ad afraid to try to ease up on his cabs right window to warn him. I was driving a Greyhound bus. My passengers' and I just had to sit and wait for quite awhile for the drama to happen.. Sure enough, as anticipated,, the chain finally bounced under the dual tandem wheels on the trailer and it wasn't a pretty sight to see and the violent snapping of the chain sounded like a cannon going off needless to say.
@@jerrystevens1865 Wow! That must have been nervewracking. Glad you and the others on the freeway were not hurt. BIG lesson for the driver, hopefully he learned it! Best, DFJ
As an FYI, If you fold closed your handle with the slot facing upward, it is much quicker and easier to feed the loose end strap webbing through the slot, pull slack out and begin ratcheting... No need then to pull one direction and then feed the end back through the handle as it is all ready in place.
I run a recording studio and I just bought a set of these to use with my mobile rig to keep my gear from falling off while taking it on location and this video answered all my questions, thanks so much!
I'm sorry but that second "grabber" does not release like yours and I have to fight trying to release that dangerous one at the same time as the easy release bracket, too much trouble, I just grab some rope and I'm done, ( cheaper too)
First time watcher here. Trying to educate myself having just bought my 1st set of straps and knowing nothing at all about them Thank you Jay for some good info. Now to go practice and make sure I understood everything
Another inexpensive and handy item to prevent the strap contacting and chafing a boat surface or to prevent the strap from being damaged on a sharp edge is to use a pool noodle, cut open lengthwise through the core, and then cut into one-foot lengths.
with the way you set up the strap you are double winding the strap and can bind up the ratchet before . just thread it thru , start ratcheting and tuck the tail under the strap and it will keep it from blowing in the wind , been doing this for 30 ytears of trucking , so ive done it a few times, when releasing it if you pull it in the oposite direction of the long end it will open quicker and completely , Can unstrap a full semi in less then 5 minutes,just by feeding the strap under the handle ,rather then doubling the strap it gets tight
mrarmy300 - glad you like it - it's my personal favorite. We have another episode coming up showing 4 or 5 ways to secure the tail end of the strap - and you can be sure that will be one of them that is featured. Thanks for watching - be sure to subscribe if you haven't already - and check out dirtfarmerjay.com! Best Regards, DFJ
Great tips, Like others have said "if I knew this years ago" :) One observation though, when connecting to the strap hooks. Try not to connect (hook/carabiner) back on the metal loop the strap is on. This will cross load the metal loop. If the loop was welded back on it's self, then no problem. Seeing that there all pinched back on them selves, with enough force it could bend back and the strap could slip out/off. Instead hook on to the stitched loop on the strap and let that hook dangle.
Great points, Johnnymailman. Based on the amount of interest we are seeing on this topic, I foresee another episode featuring great insights that have been sent to us. If we do another episode, we'll be sure to include what you've mentioned, as well as give you credit for it. Thanks for taking time to write! Best Regards, DFJ
Excellent vidéo thanks , i watched another video on RU-vid and the guy recommended interlocking the S shaped anchors together to have a more secure bong .
I love the technique of rolling up the remained of the strap! I always tied the end to something to keep it from blowing around, but your idea is a much better way to secure it. Thanks!
You can also fold it up and either tuck it underneath the strap before it fully tensioned or put through the loop on the rachet side (some companies don't sew the strap fully together) and it hold it just fine.
You are such a good teacher. Heading off to pick up roofing with the grands and ratchets always make me nervous. Especially when being watched! Thanks for giving me confidence!
Thanks so much for sharing this. The arm opening thing is helpful for me because I have had multiple TBIs that affect my ability to do/remember simple things like this without some cheat ideas. I am hoping this one will stick for me because I had to haul some stuff last month and it took me like 30mins to remember and get it to work and I was really stressed and embarrassed and mad and that makes it even harder to remember and do it. Anyway, thanks so much for this. I am saving this video!
Thanks for watching and commenting Al Genaro. Sorry to hear about your TBI issues but that fact that you just keep trying until you get it done is really impressive. Best to you as you continue to learn new things. Take care. DFJ
I've used the straps for years but just learned some great tips I never thought about. Another use I have discovered for my straps is that when working on a very large woodworking piece like a bed frame, the ratchet straps are a great woodworking clamp for holding pieces together and taking out some warp in boards that are beyond the reach of all but the longest and most expensive woodworking clamps. They also allow you to do more work by yourself when no helpers are available.
If you decide to use the to use the C clamp system please put some kind of a safety lanyard to the C clamp. If that C clamp comes loose on the highway you could do some serious damage as it bounces off people’s cars. Just don’t do it.
Kenney, I've be reviewing all the comments one again and came across your comment about the use (or should I say, non-use!) of a C-clamp. Your point is well taken and will in fact be mentioned in a future episode on load securing, and do's and don'ts. That was not good practice on my part (although I use this for a short trip and make sure it is tightened down for the short duration) - but this could lead to some bad situations as you mention. Again, thanks for the nudge. Best Regards, DFJ
I start with the clasp closed, so I don't have the feed the end back through. Then again, I'm usually doing this for a load (canoe) that's on a roof rack / bars, so the loose end hangs nicely after passing through the slotted bar.
This was great! I learned several things I've been doing wrong. But you didn't come back to how to store them. I've bought some velcro straps to keep them together FWIW. I have some very big straps I have used for towing - rarely use them, so I've used zip ties on those. Speaking of... worth mentioning that buying the appropriate size strap will save a lot of hassle. Thanks again.
If you ever see a steelhauler loading sheet goods, they will lay a couple 4 by 4's on the steel and then throw the chain across. It's hard to explain, but if you see it done, it makes total sense.
Ed, I have seen that. Thanks for bringing that up. The 4x4's allow down pressure to be brought to bear on the steel, without the chains coming right across the sharp edge of the sheet steel. These kinds of practices are time tested by people that depend on them to safely secure, and transport loads. Thanks again! Best, DFJ
Thank you, Jay! You helped me to use the spaghetti mess I made when I unpackaged my straps. Also, the tip on how to cinch-secure the excess strap was perfect.
Great Video, Thanks. May I offer a suggestion? After feeding the strap through the barrel. Always leave enough slack so when winding strap up allow enough strap to wrap completely over the through hole in the spool. this keeps the strap from slipping bac through the I'm
When you have an overspooled/bent/corroded ratchet you can manually spin them in the unwind direction by putting a flat blade screwdriver perpendicularly, or I use the back of a closed spyderco folding knife in the slot on the end of the barrel(where the keeper pin goes through)
Open the wratchet to it's full open position; keeping tension on it the loaded strap & the release pulled, the handle can be wratcheted in reverse to back the strap off the drum until enough play is available to release the load and tension...learned this using 5k & 10K lb commercial load straps and it works just as well with light weight as well!
@@tomnovak7731 - thanks for taking the time to write and express your opinion. We are ongoing learners and attempt to share what we've learned along the way, as well as pass on great info that our viewer family takes time to send our way. That's one of the things we enjoy about this medium is the conversations, even when someone disagrees with us. Best Regards, DFJ
Really no rocket science here. But things you probably would never think of in the heat of a project that you don't really want to be doing anyway. I've been strapping things in the back of a truck for about 50+ years, and I learned some pretty neat tricks that will definitely make things easier going forward. Thanks Jay, ya done good!
Thanks for weighing in James Smith. I started out in the carpentry trades when I was young but went on to work in corporate america for most of my career. I love to teach others how to "Just Do It Yourself". Keep watching and commenting my friend. Best, DFJ
When using quicklinks or 'biners just be careful of how you load the eyelet on the hook. Some ratchet straps have enough room to connect straight to the fabric sling, but if you can't do that just double check how they're loaded. Those bent hooks aren't welded, and they can easily open up if you put force on the wrong axis. It's still a good idea, but you just need to keep an eye on them.
One thing I would add is always have the ratchet on the drivers side. Especially on long halls, straps loosen after a certain amount of time. It is much easier to see in the drivers mirror vs the passenger. Stop & check several times in your first 50 miles.
Great tips - thank you. You advised to avoid having twists in the strap. I found that straight, flat straps will 'hum' or 'vibrate' loudly when driving on the highway, which is really annoying. I've found that putting a couple of twists in the strap over long lengths will stop the noise completely. As you say though, it's really important to keep any twists out of the ratchet mechanism - they'll quickly jam it up!
Thanks for watching and commenting GarrisonFall. Jay's comment about not having a twist was when rolling up the strap to stow it - making sure that there would not be a twist rolled up that would cause problems when it was being ratcheted on a load. He always puts a twist or two when tying a load down for the exact same reason you sited. Best, Dirt Farmer Maggie
Just a quick one for releasing bound up ratchet straps which I learned growing up in & around the trucking, heavy duty equipment industry from an early age. Although I did not stay in that line of work directly, being in equipment sales and service, an avid outdoorsman and boater I have used proper loading techniques for years. Try this and it will make life alot easier using mechanical ratchet straps: Open the ratchet to it's full open position; keeping tension on it the loaded strap & the release pulled, give it a quick jerk to induce movement to the strap. If it doesn't release the drum to turn freely which can be caused by various reasons such as corrosion, road grime or bent ratchet components then the ratchet handle can be ratcheted in reverse to back the strap off the drum until enough play is available to release the load and tension by keeping tension on the load strap...just back it off in reverse keeping tension on the load until enough play is gather to release the hook(s). Then, once the strap is removed from the load secure the tail side hook onto a stationary point, open the ratchet flat, pull on it and sequencing it between open and closed position will allow the drum to back the strap out. (Make sure to clean, lubricate or replace the ratchet before re-using). Learned and have practiced it successfully for over 40 years using 5k & 10K lb commercial load straps and find it works just as well with light weight load straps as well!
Scott, thanks for taking time to share your insights. This is great stuff. We'll likely use this in an upcoming episode, and I'll make sure to give you credit for it. Thanks again - Best Regards, DFJ
Again Google is watching me, this video came up right after I got done srtuggling to release a ratchet strap (I was doing it incorrectly). Thanks for this video! Now I know what I am doing and I even tested it out!
Thank you so much Farmer Jay!!! I am so excited to finally know how to use my straps when hauling things in my little truck! Also your extra tips are going to be so helpful as well! Thanks again!😃. Jessica in NC
Great video, but I have to disagree or clarify on 3 points. 1- Laying the strap flat is a mistake when hauling at highway speed. That will allow the wind to turn your strap into a really annoying musical instrument. To avoid vibration put a 1/2 twist in the strap between every contact point with the load. If you're saying "but that will weaken the strap!" you have been misinformed. Tests have shown that no noticeable weakening will occur until significant twisting occurs 2- carabiners. When using a screw gate caribiner be sure the screw is closed under load. This is especially true if the gate has a "keyhole" style retention system rather than the pin and hook style. For my money I'd just go with quick links. The harder steel will retain its shape better than soft aluminum. Nicks and gouges are stress risers that over time will contribute to fatigue and potential failure. Steel is less likely to be nicked. If rust in the threads of the quicklink is a problem spray a bit of WD-40 or dab a bit of antiseize. Even some green thread locker wouldn't be a bad idea. And on that note... 3- WD-40 is not lube. It is a rust preventative. WD stands for Water Displacement. For corrosion to occur four things are required: An anode, a cathode, an electrolyte, and a flow of electrons. WD-40 and most corrosion preventers work by shielding the metal from the electrolytes which are suspended in water. Keeping the water from resting on the metal is the key. So what should you use to lube joints instead? Any decent silicone lubricant will work fine. There are satisfactory products under brands like Liquid Wrench, PB, WD-40, and others. Not the original products of those names, but the brand used for name recognition. Anyway great video, but since this is mostly for DIY noobs I thought I'd better clear up some misconceptions.
WD 40 is only a rust preventative for a short period of time...it works as a solvent and breaks down any lubricants on metal that would shield it from moisture causing more rust damage over the long term. Due to inflation, thats my $ .10 :)
Your a very good instructor, a job well done Jay. Scary as I drive around the country and drivers that don't have their loads securely tied down. Jay here's a teaching point you might also look into is , speed ratings on trailer tires. I see everyone with a 1/2 ton truck pulling a trailer going 85 mph and I know these trailer tires are not rated for those speeds.
D Bowtech - thanks for the kind words! We enjoy passing on information that helps people be more self-reliant as well as safe. Indeed, there is an amazing amount of badly secured loads on the road every day - and we see our share. Your thoughts on the speed rating of trailer tires is well taken, and we'll do a future episode on that topic and give a nod to you. Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ
Never understood why people insist on passing it back through, Don’t pass it Back through and you can use the tag end of the strap for leverage to tighten. Then when it is time to release the load you grab the tag and rotate the handle to disengage the ratchet, pull the tag end And voila. By passing it back through it is way too difficult to release the strap from the ratchet
@@Cous1nJack I can do the same thing without passing it through though. To each their own. I don’t necessarily think either way is wrong. That’s just the way that works easiest for me and that’s how I always train people to do it.
@@frednot809 l'm a pass it through man, have been for 40 years. I teach all the young people to pass it through. How do you keep both ends in tension with one hand while ratcheting with the other hand with out passing it back through ? Only bent or rusty ratchets are a problem to release if they are not overwound. Pulling the slak tight before starting to ratchet is the only way I know of to always avoid overwinding.
@@johnossendorf9979 If we can agree that you don’t use the tag and to tighten, the way I do it is leave the ratchet open, Bring the tag and threw one time then pull it toward my load, then simply pinch with my other hand, it allows you more revolutions to tighten some thing because you only have one layer of strap instead of two,You can use the tag end for leverage To tighten a load by just grabbing the end and as you pull up it pushes the ratchet to tighten it. Removal is as simple as opening the ratchet and pulling on the tag end, Unrolls the entire ratchet in one movement. I’m not saying the other way is wrong necessarily. But it’s not for me. I truly find it easiest the way I described
i think its easiest to feed the strap though in the closed locked position. the way this video show its like feeding it though 2 times. you must alight the cam 90 degrees from the handle so it feeds strain though. Ill have to try the loop for storage. a lot of time i use the ratchet handle to lock down the free tail end. it has teeth under it i think its designed for it. I use the straps at least 50 times a week for work.
I agree ! I close the ratchet and makes it a lot easier to feed the strap through ! I also use zip ties to secure the extra strap after I roll up the access !
Tim Z, you are correct. Others have mentioned this as well, and it's a superior approach to the one that I demonstrated. My technique works, but it's not as direct and elegant as the way you mention. We have another episode planned showing the best viewer family insights, and this will make the list! Thanks for taking the time to write! Best, DFJ
@@fuzzyelm1 Eddie, thanks! I like the zip tie approach. Another viewer uses large binder clips (the kind used to clip sheaves of paper together) to accomplish this. We love this medium because we get to have great ideas and conversations exchanged. Thanks for weighing in! Best, DFJ
G'day Jay, from down Under! 🇦🇺 Thanks for the vid! The straps easily jam when securing soft loads (eg. Hay, straw, trimmed bushes/branches), where a lot of slack is in play. Sometimes releasing and starting again is enough, but if not, using a pair of straps tightened alternately works well. Thanks also to all who post useful comments! 😁 Great to learn from y'all!! 👍
Great tip, Farmer Vincent. Great to hear from you there in Australia. I had the chance to visit both Wellington, NZ and Melbourne AU several years ago. Loved the country and the people! Thanks for watching and taking time to write! Best, DFJ
