I missed my opportunity to buy a $200 1960 Cincinnati shaper with a bad motor. Thanks for keeping it old school! Simple machines are still the backbone of societies.
I learned how to use a shaper in 1968-70 in the High School Machine Shop class. I like the striated finish of a shaper over the swirl pattern of a face mill or fly cutter. That is a very nice little shaper....I'm envious. Great video.
Thats good old school milling, I was a 45 yr career cnc prototype machinist/programmer. I never seen 1 in the shops even in the 70's, so I had to watch and I loved it !!! I did work with the old gear shapers, the were amazing mechanicl engineering example
Hi Rustinox. Thanks for the explanation on how to use the shaping machine. I've only read books on it in the past but get by. Nice to learn some new methods I can put in to practice. Tony
Just got a 400 mm stroke shaper last weekend. Very nice machine, although the clapper box is missing, will have to make one. Otherwise a very neat looking machine which has been used for slotting and looks as if it has very little action in many years. An intern at the company where it stood actually saved it from the melting furnace. My luck that there's still young people who care.
As an engineering apprentice starting in 1960 my first session in the tool room was to work on the shaping section for several months. Our first job was to make ourselves a pair of ‘pull downs’ a sort of L shaped insertion in the vice, parallel to block to be shaped. This pulled block down onto vice and gave plenty of clearance for cuts. We had to grind our own cutting tools, rounded at base with a deep rounded angled shape. This enabled a deep cut with metal curling off like butter. We were making all the tool blocks prior to grinding finish for toolmakers to assemble.
I have entered my 60’s and have retired from repairing automobiles in the central US. Other than a brake lathe, I have never see a shaper work. I am very surprised how much is involved in the machine itself, I am fascinated. As designs may differ, I never knew the cutting head swings on the back stroke to clear the material. You did a very good job of explaining this matching, even the rate of stroke in mm per minute. I have worked on import motorcycles since age 11 and bought very cheap metric tools but quickly learned that metric will fit almost every imperial or US standard fastener, but not the other way around. I will say, I am jealous of your metal ruler, with both metric and inches and now I have to find on. I tell people that engage in repair talk and I will say 25.4mm or 1 inch and they are not familiar with this measurement. I tell them yes, you can round up in some case as bearings for a crankshaft or boring a cylinder is 0.25mm over = 1st over, 0.50mm = 2nd over sized and so forth. Imports not only measure the inside diameter for a bearing to fit, but also the outside for the bore they fit in, as this change would effect the force of crush and telegraph to the inside of the bearing. It maybe perfect, too tight or too loose and require a thicker shell. Like the Dr. talk 2 centimeters in length and I say “So, just under 2 inches” and they stop. That’s right, how did you know that? I worked on cars! They can’t figure the connection! They have few patients that know the metric system. I thought you did a very good job in showing the machine, explaining the movements of the adjustments. And I am shocked how heavy it looks. You had to have brought into that room in pieces then assemble it. It looks like 2 tons of cast iron. Wow! You did a very good job as I enjoy learning. On a family farm, and the oldest, I was surround by equipment and used D-4 Cattapilar to build terraces in the field and fix small ditches where water ran after hard rains. We used it to pull a disc for a number of years, but cleared the road to the highway after huge snows W/drifts that covered them in 3-4 meters of snow. Thanks again. Excellent machine. Subscribed! DK, Omaha, NE. (Auto ASE master tech since 1978)
@@Rustinox We Machined deep hole offshore drill mandrels. The Shaper mills had a 20 ft. Stroke we used 15 ft. For 8 equal splines (dovetailed). Lady machinist ran 10 hr shift complete 1 part. We had 6 machines model 1946. Index head, tail stock. Company bought CNC OOYA MACHING CENTER INDEXABLE HEAD 20 TOOL CHANGER bridge TYPE mill 18ft travel. I got to brake it in on these parts. 10 hr shift 1.5 hr run time per part. 6 parts per shift replacing 6 machine and 6 operators. BTW machine cost installed 1 Million dollars. 1982
Thank you for that great explanation! If i only have seen something like this 5 years before, would have safed me alot trouble in how to use my 28cm Aderle shaper.
I started in Mech Eng at RMIT in Melbourne Australia 1983 before I went to America and did switched to aerospace. AT the end of our first year at RMIT we had a 3 week shop course. We did a few days welding followed by a couple of weeks in the machine shop where we made a small bench vise from raw castings. We used pretty much everything including a shaper for the vise jaw inserts which had a cross hatch pattern. I remember asking why we were using a shaper to do this. 30+ years later I still remember the answer. "There will always be some tasks that a shaper just does better." If you want to cut a bunch of parallel grooves across a pieces of metal they are great if you have to do lots. They set up that scraper so that 40+ mech engineering clowns could do that task in a few minutes. Sure they could have had us do it in the vertical mill but we would have snapped off so many tools it just wasn't worth it. Abom79 uses his a lot. Often its just to show what can be done with a shaper but occasionally he does something it just does better. He did one vid where he took some big cuts out of a big slab -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tN6ODZZJNkQ.html. Both Abom and Stephan Gotteswinter have also shown shapers are great for doing keyways, but you might need a reverse clapper box. In future if you get a chance possibly show some of these things like a cross hatched vise jaw or keyways or just raw material removal.
It is indeed a drill press vice. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RLMaRcF5gdM.html It is not rigid enoug for a shaper, but it's what I have. Maby one day I 'll find a better one...
Rustinox,I've only just spotted this video. Very nice small shaper with lots of features normally only seen on far larger machines. I have an Alba1A which is very versatile but not as good on features like yours has. Adjusting the ram stroke on the Alba is far more awkward and crude than the process on your shaper. The copper wire trick I am familiar with and I also sometimes use lead solder wire when clamping soft grade aluminium.
Thanks for your comment, Howard. It's a nice little machine indeed but only for small cuts. A 1 mm cut in steel is a big cut for this machine. The Alba 1 can take bigger cuts. I will remember your solder wire trick. That's a good one.
My grandfather use to use a shaper on cast rail pieces, the inside area of a rial track is rounded on the inside cord , the castings came with single angle on each end, he would change the height of cut on each to make a near rounded taper to fit inside the track, the just hand grind for roundness.
that's a neat little machine, I got a gack 200mm stroke shaper but it misses some features you have. First of all the handle mechanism to adjust the stroke is genious level 10, on my shaper I need to open up the casing and untighten a nut :( Also the klapper box on your shaper is more intelligent on yours as it lift's itself on the backstroke, mine is just lifting by the tool running over the work surface backwards. Is your stroke speed equal on work stroke and backstroke - it looks much like it ? The t-slot holder for the tool is also noted and will be imitated over here :D Did you ever miss an automatic vertical feed, I thought a while about adding one ? Thanks for the nice vid !
@@Rustinox Hi, I just bought such a machine :) Almost a week has been standing still not unloaded from the car :( Regards from Poland , Paweł. P.S. What I could, I left on your interesting channel;)
It's a nice little machine, not a make I have heard of. I like the trick of using cigarette paper to ensure seating, I use the stuff for setting zero with cutters on the mill but now there's another use for it. Even though I don't smoke there's always a pack of papers in my tool box!
Hi, Everett. Thanks for your comment. This are some of the tricks we learned in school. We had a teacher with a real passion for machining. Thanks to him we learned a lot of little tricks.
Great video, great tips, one question. Why do you angle the clapper box in the direction you are cutting, towards the fixed jaw ? And then place the cutting tool straight up and down.
The cutting tool mast be vertical otherwise the tool geomery changes. For the clapperbox i explane in this video; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Yq5pFSosxQ.html
Michel,,that a corporation valve off an AC auto?? Sure looks like the one I replaced recently on my old Dodge d250 truck? Love to have a small shaper, but a big Acura knee mill planned and out of shop floor space. Great video, and loved you magnet chip broom for toolfest 2021..Cheers and happy Holidays for 2021 from Bears Rod Shop,,TX.
Funny that only a day after my comment, I found, and bought that Klopp 450 mins east of the shop. She waits being unload this morning when it warms up here. I will have continue researching all about it, and learn the Do's & Don'ts,,,but your channel has and is most helpful,,,Let 2022 be a good year for us all,,,Merry Christmas & a Great New Year,,Bear & Sammie, TX.
I’ve been in the trade since 1980 , never ever seen a shaper used in Industrie ,we had one in school I used , heard stories of people making form tooling but if I had an opportunity to get one here ( slim to none) I would get one .My opinion would be you couldn’t use carbide with that kind of setup. You can make your own tooling out of tool steel or cobalt ,that would be a lot of fun I’m thinking
Aaaah I really want one of those. First time I see one this compact, though. I wonder how large is the largest part if I would take it apart? I would need to carry it downstairs to the basement so the smaller the largest part the better.
@@Rustinox how heavy is the one you have? And what is the model and maker so I know what to look for. In Slovenia we don't have that many vintage shaper makers.
4:04 On your clapper box there are 2 holes to the right of the tool post and a square head screw in the side near them. What are they all? In other videos I see the square head screw is removed. Is it a clapper lock of some kind?
Dear Mr. Rustinox: I send you a warm greeting and wishing you are in full health. The video of the metal planer is very interesting. It is a very precise machine, but very easy to break, due to the rectilinear movement of the ram; One question the cut you used was 0.7 or 0.07 mm. Thank you for your time and many successes.
Thanks for your comment Jose. In this video i use a depth of cut of 0.7mm and 0.75mm. Depending on what tool i use i can go to 1mm or 1.2mm with a step over of 0.15mm for soft steel.
@@Rustinox Thanks for the response of the cut from 0.7 to 1.2 mm, it represents a saving in time of planing flat surfaces, without risk of damaging the machine, is an excellent advice, thank you Mr. Rustinox
Always try, if possible, to cut parts in the length. I you cut parts in the width, it takes more strokes (more time) to cover the whole surface. I show this in this video: studio.ru-vid.comDTv6A0yEEjM/edit
Shaper is slower than a mill, but as already mentioned, tooling and accessory costs for the shaper are a fraction of what those costs are for a mill. Also, never underestimate a shaper. There is great potential for severe injuries with a shaper.
@@Rustinox 🤣 love your videos, keep them coming. thanks! PS: shapers are unobtanium down in Australia, and ones that occasionally pop up for sale are bloody expensive. e.g $1800 for a small manual hand cranked one.
Most operations are possible on both machines. For the shaper it's very easy to make dedacated tools for almost no cost. The same tools for milling machine are very expensive on inexistant.
Does anyone know why the clapper box is turned on an angle, yet the cutting tool remains straight? Why angle the clapper box if you're setting the tool back to verticle?
The cutting tool mast be vertical otherwise the tool geomery changes. For the clapperbox i explane in this video; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Yq5pFSosxQ.html
