How to use Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax for a Wood Finish BLO and Pastwax 

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I'm not a wood working junkie I was looking for a little paste wax info. After watching this video I wanted to make a career change then I woke up and remembered I'm 59. That ship has long sailed away.

nothing beats the warm glo from a linseed oil finish; true classic finish.

Thanks foor the video. Glad to see someone else likes that raw wood feel in your hands. Been using BLO and Paste Wax for about 40 years now. Great wood finish for tools.

Thanks for the info!! Finishing woodworking projects is one of the most satisfying and confusing parts, lol, there are so many options!

I work in the insurance/assessment and demolition industry, and I want to thank you for mentioning the rags and spontaneous combustion. Many of the big fires my company works with are caused by spontaneous combustion.

Enjoy your videos, straight to the point, informative and no bs.

I have used mineral oil and carnuba wax I LOVE the FEEL of it on my tool handles

For years I have used a handmade mixture of raw BLO, turps and beeswax. smells wonderful!!

My older brother and I used BLO on guitar fingerboards in his music store back in the early '70s. I don't think we ever worried about it getting on our fingers. Feed & Wax will be my next application on my current guitar boards.

I've been using the paste wax alone here lately but I'm going to try BLO. Thanks for the tips!

A truly “hand rubbed” finish! Great video!!

James! Loving this and completely agree!!

My favourite woodworking channel, great work

I have been working with the Bees Wax and Caruba Wax and oil finish......its the only finish Ive used on my handles other than a light weight shellac.....always loved Howards and now I have Pita's.

I remembered that i used blo without gloves and had an uh oh moment. Then remembered I'm a mechanic that gets everything from gas to oil to brake fluid and brake clean on my hands daily.. great video and great advice! Thank you!

Great video! Thanks for talking about the combustion properties. I've seen a few videos and they say to be careful with this product. I myself tend to throw old oil rags with mild oil in the wash to reuse, then hang them to dry. I threw one of these rags in the wash and ran it through 3 times, then my wife accidently threw the load in the dryer and we almost burned our house down. RIP New Dryer :/. I like the finish of linseed oil. I like using it on wine barrel projects.

Thanks! Exactly what I needed. I was doing some quick Walnut wall brackets to hold an oooold wood slalom waterski of my mom’s and I knew I’d never get to it if I didn’t do it quick. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks!

I use this process on old wood cabinets - and type cases in my print shop. Most of them were unfinished when they were made - some as much as 100 years ago. I don't want to "refinish" them, but I do like to give them some protection and make them look a bit nicer than the old, dry wood I start with.... The linseed oil does put life back into old, dry wood. I also use the feed 'n' wax to refresh the finish now and then. It makes the old wood look good and helps me to keep it clean. Thanks for letting me know I have been doing the right thing...

One of my favourite finishes too. I have made up my own BLO/Bees wax blend which is nice too, and a paste wax/3 in 1 oil blend for my iron and steel tools.

nicely presented ....and LOVE the workshop utility apron.. I'm working to make an Elm dining room table ..straight from the tree (after 4 yrs seasoning) so this was invaluable to obtain a lustrous finish thanks again

I like your blo and paste wax finish I used that on a diston saw restoration. I followed your saw restoration instructions in your other video. I experimented with it on a lathe project and used blo and coconut oil in lieu of paste wax turned out well.

I've been using a blended oil finish with for years then apply a carnauba/beeswax hard paste wax on top. Lots of effort but brings the best out of any timber grain. If you want the same effect but don't want to blend your own then Liberon Finishing Oil is one of the best commercial blends and is one of my go-to blends. For wax, I use either Alfie Shine hard paste carnauba or Liberon Black Bison wax and build up 3 to 5 coats over the oil finish once oxidised. There's no better way of finishing projects imho. For better water resistance or wear resistance then hard wax oils are the things to use. You can apply these over finishing oil finishes but not over wax.

Dad always liked these two but he liked adding Danish oil to mix!

Hey James, good info. I've used blo as a base, sealer, " grain popper " Then after its had time to dry, I've put a oil based poly finish ( 3 to 4 coats) . Worked out pretty good.

oh yeah. That Howard's feed n wax is great. refreshing smell too.

Hey that Feed and wax really helped the table i made pop thanks for the info

Good finish, linseed oil, turpentine and varnish in equal quantities is a finish I have used for nearly 40 years but I will give this a go, thanks!

I will have to try this on my carving mallet I made. I hope it makes the color of the handle pop. Thank you for showing this

JESUS!!! Gives a whole new meaning to hand finished..

nicely done on this video sir. i love it. love the idea of home brew linseed oil with out all the chemicals, thanks for the reminder it can burst into flames. I've sat my trash can in the middle of the yard at times un the past heheheheh, thanks again, we let all the commercials roll, big thumbs up dale

About 5 years ago I watched this video to learn more about finishing techniques in restoring old gun stocks. Today, I have restored over 200 stocks using this method and made almost 100k doing so as a side hobby to save money for my sons college! This is an incredible video!

Thank you for the advice

I was shown how to make a linspeed finish when I was a teen in the 60s by an old gunsmith. I add turps and artist tint (oil based of course) burnt umber for a gunstock that had plastic finish that had lifted. A traditional hand rubbed oil finish and it came out well enough that at a range a fellow shooter refused to believe that I had done this myself. This is a lot less work and I will play with this very soon. Thank you.

Great video! I always trying to use natural chemicals, like Linen seed oil in the first place, after about 10-15 years it's a huge different seen to how it affect the wood compared to syntetic stuff.

Did this today already had one coat of linseed oil on the day before. I applied another coat of store bought linseed oil let it soak and this took a while . Then I wiped off the oil that didn't soak in. Then I waited a few hours and applied a coat of pastes wax and waited ten minutes and went over the wood with a torch flame for a few seconds an watched it soften up an then let it sit for fifteen minutes. Then I hand buffed it then repeated the application and torch softening. I buffed after waiting again and it came out great.

Another excellent video. Love it. I too love the scent of linseed oil. Wish I had access to the raw stuff, like you have, as I'd love to rub it in without gloves.

Great video, thanks! Looks like the perfect finish for a wood gun stock either rifle or pistol, as of course you are feeling the wood.

Good video and happy I've found this channel. I'm a big fan of the Feed & Wax, too. Use it on my bench and other work surfaces for maintenance. For hand tools, I prefer shellac and wax.

This sort of approach is great for food safe finishes as well, on turned items like bowls & platters (although, obviously make sure your BLO & wax is food safe / chemical free).

Thanks James! So you really like oil finishes. 😃😃😃

In the days before the advent of Loctite, old timers used BLO as a thread-locker too. I've been using it for decades on my machine and tool surfaces, here in Florida the humidity is legendary, but it holds up very well.

Thank you for the good information! I understand wanting to be able to feel the grain of the wood.

Wright..........love the tutorial my man! Great work!

Well done video. Easy to understand. Would like to see other types of finishes.

New subscriber. Saw you on Matt's channel & and glad I found you. Thanks for making the videos

another great video James another thing you can use for buffing out that wax is soft burlap

Thanks a lot for this video. Really, really useful info!

Thanks for a really good video James!

Here's a tip that I've learned recently. Use Teflon thread tape on any place like your jar threads to help seal them, but at same time make it easier to remove the lids. Also enjoyed your video, as I'm still trying to learn about wood finishes. Thanks db

Good tips. I use paste wax all the time. I use it on my tools too!

I had no idea the paper towels might combust, thanks for that tip.

That was a delightfully quick answer. My husband and I are pouring our life savings into an old farmhouse and have wood questions in several areas. For example, we have patched the old maple floor. Once it's sanded, then what? And what about the Ash stair treads and risers. And the ash ceiling in the stairwell? Especially the ceiling--we don't want to do any maintenance once it's installed. Thank you for referencing Rubio monocote. That is apparently a good floor product.

Looks good will try that today

This is content that I do like 🤗

Great video, cheers fella.

James great video sir you give pl lots information sir

I finished a walnut coffee table with 6+ coats of tung oil 20 years ago and it still looks great! IMHO, poly is difficult to apply without it looking like plastic.

Great video. BTW, 10 minute mark: "rubbing it out." LOL.

Was thinking of this JUST TODAY!!!! Incredible...thanks...rr

James, a good video as usual. I would like to offer some insight into the use of any of the drying oils. And you made a good point NOT to instruct people on how old fashioned "Boiled" linseed oil is made. Today there is a version called "Polymerized" where the oil is heated in what is more or less a vacuum or at least oxygen free chamber. This is not for the DIY community. Thin coats I have found is much better than soaking or applying 2-3 or more coats the same day. The chemistry is simple, if the oil is applied too thick or to much at once, it will almost never dry and cure. My Motto for 45 years has been: Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then... Once a year there after. Yes, some of my work is actually not ready to go out the door for a year but, if the customer is willing to do the monthly and yearly oiling... then it can go out the door the second month after the first coat of oil is applied. In regards to Paste Wax though... read the ingredients... there is little to no oil in it. What makes the Was a paste is solvents like Mineral Spirits. So, gloves are somewhat a requirement these days. I make my own Paste wax and it is a slower drying one because I use Pure Turps as the solvent and a drying oil as part of my personal blend. Keep up the great work, I hope you do not mind a veteran of 45 years of woodworking chiming in. Walter aka Dusty Splinters

Hi, I just found you channel and have subscribed . I enjoyed your information and appreciate your easy going manner, nothing pretentious like some of the "celebrity" wood workers who are so full of themselves.

After an extended period of time (years) BLO will eventually give a good smooth finish as it polymerizes and self levels. It's the sort of "human finish" that really old tools have. it's sort of like seasoning a cast iron pan, but with wood.

I have a ton of experience with linseed oil and wax. Bottom line, it works well enough inside, but outside in the sun/wind/rain fuggetaboutit. I live down in Mexico, in just a few months it looks like bare unfinished wood. The best exterior finish we have found is a Canadian product, Permachink... zero VOC, non toxic, developed to finish and seal log cabins... Canadian winter, Baja summer, Permachink takes a lickin and keeps on tickin.

Nice way to finish wood. I'd also suggest trying to combine (via a warm mixture) the BLO & PW, then using high grit sand paper (like 1000 grit) to work it into the wood, letting it soak & wiping it off. Do that 2 to 3 times, then buff it up. Great work................Steve

Thanks for the advice I will defiantly use this finish. Congrats on the subscription increase.

I have been experimenting with melted wax finishes lately. Using a heat gun and a rag, it applies easy and soaks in deep takes a bit more time but only needs one application. I am trying it on allot of my laser etched pictures because it is easy to re-flow and buff and it isn't picking up as much laser dust.

Thanks man, great info.

These are very good tips my friend,I love it awesome video bro :)

A good coating for wood. Like!

Cheap in the US... plus $68 postage to Australia... :( Happens every time... You guys have so much variety of quality products but the postage makes it prohibitive to buy here. I watch several woodworkers as I am just starting out. From the UK I found Paul Sellers and now in the US I've discovered you. I love the honest down-to-earth sensible, easy to understand, professional approach you have. Thanks Again.

Great information thanks 👍

I use BLO on my wood gun stocks. About 60-70 hand rubbed coats. Comes out like glass in the end with a very good, hard protective surface.

Good video! Very helpful! Thanks James!

this is good to know

Great video!

I would like you to try something a little different with your paste wax... I have been using BLO and topping with commercial paste wax, I have found that adding Kiwi shoe polish in a brown/oxblood or black, helps the drying, adds a tone to the finish, applies smoother and buffs higher... I melt the paste wax in boiling water and add the can of shoe polish, no mixing necessary, blends completely on its own, I am very pleased with this concoction.

Maybe you could do a video watching the guy who makes your oil at his facility? Very nice video buddy.

I really loved this video...feels like home to me...even though I live in miami..ha..thanks for sharing dude!!!

great stuff James! i like using a mix of BLO and beeswax (sounds like I just might be making homemade paste wax)

Hi one of the things I have found that works well for me is blo plus bees wax 60/40 I rub this in to my hand planes and wood surfaces. I took Paul Sellers oil rag in can and modified this to 40/60 and I wipe it on the planes soul as required. This works for me, and he'll I just a weekend warrior.

Good info.

I use Howard's Feed 'N' Wax on my guitars. It seems to keep the nitrocellulose laquer from becoming brittle. My "homemade" guitars get Violin Varnish but all my tool get BLO/Paste Wax. My paste wax is a mixture of beewax, carnuba wax, orange oil, raw tung oil. The recipe is a consistency thing for me but guessing I would say 75% beeswax, 15% carnuba wax, 2% orange oil, 3% raw tung oil. I use the orange oil to soften the carnuba wax. I do it by "feel."

Thanks for sharing!! 👍

Oh my god, the pickle jar is actually kinda clean.

Hey James! Great video. Have you ever considered using a double boiler to melt the wax into the oil and turn it into one finish? I have done this using beeswax and tung oil as well as beeswax and mineral oil. It works great and is much easier to work into the surface than straight paste wax.

On Gardening tools if it has a varnished or lacquered handle you will most likely have obtained water blisters on your hands from prolonged use. Sand off the factory finish and apply the boiled linseed oil finish and it is far more comfortable to use. You can also wipe down the metal parts to keep them in good condition as well.

Good info! Thanks

Hi, nice video. One question please. I use snooker cue, over time grains on ash cue raise and pores can be felt while cueing. I have to send it to cue makers for refinish to get it smoother again. Any idea , how to fill those grains and smooth the cue? Thanks.

Thanks a lot!

Yes!!

I once tried applying boiled linseed oil with gloves on. My wife went mad saying I’d absolutely ruined her best pair of woollen mits. I make my own wax paste with bees wax, carnauba wax, genuine gum turpentine and linseed oil, you haven’t to use turpentine substitute but I don’t know why not. You also call turpentine something different in the states, it might be white spirit. The wax I mix together at a ratio of two parts bees wax to one part carnauba. Then my mixture is 1 part wax, 1 part terps and 2 parts linseed oil. I’ve jiggled these ratios from a recipe I found online, but they had one part bees wax to one part carnauba. I prefer the smell with more bees wax and at 1:1 I found the finished product too hard to use efficiently. However, the above cannot be used on utensils or bowls to be used with food, there I just use pure tung oil. They say you can also use Danish oil but I’m a little trepidatious as it has lots of additives in it, much like the bought BLO. Another brilliant and very useful video, thank you.

Linseed oil and wax is my finish of choice (partially because I like the finishing / re-finishing process), however for things that are going to get some wear and need protection, I've taken a liking to Rubio Monocoat. It's no VOC and smells like real linseed oil, but has an accelerant causing it to dry in one day. It's made for floors but I've used it on wooden countertops, even around my sink with great success. It's a floor finish so I imagine that it's pretty durable, though on the countertops since they are made of wood (laminated plywood on top of mdf, edge band in poplar) I do my best to keep it dry and wipe out any spots with a damp sponge as regular maintenance.

Completely off the topic: I went to an antique store today that specializes in woodworking tools. I started talking to another customer about just starting out woodworking. He said, "you should look at James Wright's videos". I told him that you have been helping me with woodworking for a couple of months. We started talking about your different videos. I just thought you'd like to know that your videos get out there. It was fun.

Great video James ! Another good way to buff it out, try a shoe shine brush.

Your dad told me you had gone "hand tool". Glad to find your site. Linda will be excited to see what happened to the little kid who used to make faces at people in church when you were 2 or 3. Nice video. My shop is a 24 X 48 with 24" Delta planer, 24" double drum sander, a 60" stroke sander, 2 RAS, 2 drill presses, two table saw, two 12" chop saws, 2 shapers, and most of the common power tools. Having said that I am finding I can do some things faster and better with hand tools. Keep up the good work.

James, very informative video! Thanks for the time to make it. I have a question on the paste wax. I practice aikido and we use wooden weapons made of various types of hardwood (red or white oak is most common). Our bokken (wooden sword)and jo (wooden staff) occasionally need to be resurfaced and after sanding we use boiled linseed oil. But we've never used the paste wax. The BLO gives it a great looking finish and really makes the wood grain pop, but as these are used in contact with other wooden weapons in training they can take a bit of abuse. Do you think that applying a coating of paste wax would be a benefit at all?

I love your videos man 🙌🏻

A horsehair shoeshine brush works well for buffing.

you take a Hands-On kind of guy saying to a new level