IS SAVANNAH AWESOME OR WHAT!? She put in SO much time to do this interview for us and write EVERYTHING out in the show notes on our website. Let's show her some support on Instagran @coachsavmiller ! And if you're lazy like us and you want someone else to figure out your diet for you, you can setup an easy appointment with Savannah here: coachsavmiller.com/
It's easy: stick to things that have only 1 ingredient, but no isolates like sugars and oils (you can throw them together obviously for a meal) I consider whole grain pasta to be healthy, but you should have them split up in to maximum 2 meals a day. Other than that I eat oats, nuts and vegetables. Only drink water, coffee, and tea without additives. If you're vegan have your vit.B12 and a good source of omega-3 fatty acids (chia seeds, walnuts), maybe vit.D if you're a nightshift worker or not out in the sun much, and you're good. Once in a while if you have an easier day try to eat nothing for that day. I'm 40 years old, athletic, everyone thinks I'm much younger. Take good care of your bodies folks 💟🌌☮️
I recently took a course on exercise science, and what I learned about nutrition there lines up almost exactly with what Savannah says. It's helpful that she and Hooper were able to basically condense the course into a 22-minute video. ;) I'm also interested, as other commenters have mentioned, in the role of collagen (natural sources and supplements) for climbers.
collagen supplements have not been conclusively proven to work for climbers. It's a protein like any other but is quickly broken down by the body to glycine, proline, etc (which will help creating more collagen later, lol) which can be found in many other proteins. Your body can also biosynthesize those from other sources. Given the hefty price of supplements and how it's so poorly regulated (do you know if the manufacturing process creates molecules that the body particularly likes to assimilate? I don't), It seems way better to "just" follow a fairly balanced diet instead (which has other benefits haha). So really, you just want to make sure you get a lot of food that can be broken down into potential collagen consituants (but also that you eat enough in general, or else these proteins will just be used for fuel instead of repairing your tendons)
Question for Savannah or maybe a future video, what kind of food is good for building/repairing tendons or in general injury prevention ? Love the show btw :)
I've noticed that liquid meals an hour and a half or so before my sessions have been super useful, I'm glad there's some basis for this in real science!
Soo important information, but often so difficult to get in an understandable way - You guys made made this accessible and interesting! Loved it! ready for more :)!
Have you ever thought about/have you done a video on digit ratio and how your digit ratio may effect your chances of injury? I’ve got a long ring finger and short index, which I think is the reason I often get an inflamed PIP joint on my ring fingers? I would be interested to see what a professional’s thoughts were on this and its relevance in climbing! PS, love the videos, it’s refreshing to have the comfort of science backing up climbing relatives info 😊
Excellent episode with helpful and sound advice!!!👍🏼There seems to be a developing trend on consuming collagen peptides to repair and maintain healthy tendons, especially for climbers. How effective is this and is all the hype warranted? Can't wait for future nutrition episodes!!!
All I know is, if I eat regular food as carbs and protein an hour before climbing, I stand a very good chance of barfing. If I need to fuel close to climbing, protein/carb bars are all I can handle & only with water. If I have time to use regular food, salmon and brown rice no less than 2-3 hours before, and I am golden.
Great overall recommendation! However, excess protein intake doesn't necessarily mean weight gain. It's my understanding that the body doesn't store much as fat or use it as fuel because its conversion is pretty inefficient. I'm not a nutritional expert, just relaying what I understood from Dr. Galpin's videos. For example: Protein, Amino Acids, BCAA : 25 Min Phys
What about older climbers (in my case 50). I hear they need larger protein portions and more protein overall to get the same benefits...? Should our macro-nutrient balance change as we get older? What about other micro-nutrients?
Check “Up Hill Athlete”. They’ve got a couple of podcasts for the aging athlete (nutrition and training). Also check out Dave Macleod on RU-vid. He’s a pro climber, and has done a ton of research related to training and nutrition. However, the older you get the more protein you need. An older person is not able to process proteins as well as when he/she was younger. Therefore you have to up your protein intake as you get older. I’m 55, and started climbing a year ago. After an evening climbing session I’ll usually be quite tired and my body feels sore. Before I go to bed I’ll make myself a 40-45 gram protein shake, and I’ll feel much better in the morning compared to when I didn’t get that dose of protein to help my recovery. It works for me.
I love all of your videos! I just started to climb but get injured easily. They're so helpful for me to learn. Submitted a appointment booking, looking forward to your reply!
Without trying to discount anything she said, has she climbed before? If so, how familiar is she with the difference in climbing types, ie bouldering vs speed climbing big walls? As a former swimmer, I would assume she thinks climbing is all endurance based and a cardio sport and is the precedent for her promotion of carbs. Keto has worked really well for me in the past for bouldering and was overall great for completely eliminating blood sugar variation. I have to say I don’t think it would have worked for endurance forms of climbing for me though as my climbing sessions weren’t as long on keto as before/after.
That's awesome that keto has been working so well for you! I think it would really deserve a whole video of it's own, as it's such a big topic and outside the scope of this particular video. It's also something that only a small percentage of people will actually do, and an even smaller percentage of those people will do it properly and see results that they're happy with. BUT if that's something that a lot of people would like to learn about, maybe we can badger Savannah into doing a keto video :P. And yes, she knows the difference between different climbing/training intensities. :)
@@HoopersBeta I would love to hear her speak about keto. I've been keto for 1 and a half years now. I had terrible blood sugar tests and needed a serious life change. My tests are all good now. This was my path and it may not work for everyone but it's a great topic.
@@HoopersBeta yeah. Most people think of keto as just eating lots of meat, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. When I was keto, I ate tons of eggs, leafy greens, and got the majority of my fat from nuts, avocados, and other healthier sources. One thing Thomas Delauer said that stuck with me was when eating meat, eat lean meat and get the fat from healthier sources. I’d love to see a video on the advantages/disadvantages of healthy keto for different climbing types.
During increased levels of exercise, Savannah says that your body starts to rely even more on carbs for fuel. If one was in a state of ketosis, does this rule still apply?
Hi, are there any tips for days that you are out at the crag for a whole day? I really have difficulties to find the right food that works out at the crag that fuels me enough but doesn't make me feel too full to climb. I usually eat not enough as a result and feel pretty exhausted.
Any comments on fasting and keto? There seems to be directly conflicting information out there. The information in this video is certainly conventional wisdom, but I have recently gravitated more towards keto and training fasted. I will fuel a bit more before if I'm looking to skyrocket my performance. I personally experience that when I'm carb dependent (lets say I'm eating bananas, oatmeal etc, I'll feeel great for an hour of my workout then crash 1-2 hrs into the exercise. When I'm fasted and recovered, I often can go for twice as long with no crash. I've been told that I'm an outlier by other nutritionists before in the climbing community that have given similar advice to that in this video. I think it would be really helpful to the audience to provide some clarity here.
Ace insights and super concise overview for someone with my pop science level of nutritional knowledge. I like the complex made simple (except with sedentary carb intake!). Looking forward to more nourishing episodes on this side of climbing. My specific questions would be: What's your opinion on Huel? Is there any science to back up the rising interest in ecdysterone in sports medicine and if so is raw spinach better than supplements?
If you're at all interested in nutrition for climbers and haven't heard of the ClimbSci podcast, I HIGHLY recommend it! Hours and hours of very in depth conversations about pretty much every aspect of sports nutrition for climbers specifically. They do a ton of prep for every episode and every claim they make they back up with the actual research papers where they got their information from; they even link the papers with timestamps in the episode description. It's really fantastic stuff!! (EDIT: After typing this next bit I discovered Hooper did eventually make a video on collagen specifically, going much more in depth than I have. Soo maybe instead of reading the next paragraph go watch this instead 😅😁 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gp7jDQcogYU.html) One thing that's super important for climbers that I wish was discussed in this episode is collagen supplementation. From my (very limited and non-professional) understanding, if you want to increase your finger tendon strength you do want to supplement with collagen, and timing is essential, ~30-60 minutes prior to working out. Tendons in general and finger tendons specifically get very little blood flow so the collagen must be available in the blood during the exercise in order to maximize the amount of it that actually ends up where it's needed. Again from my very limited understanding of this the source of the collagen can potentially have a large impact as well, but I don't know enough about the topic to say more than that. All in all, great episode! I think you both did a good job of quickly hitting a few of the big pieces of this topic. Coach Sav definitely seems to know what she's talking about!
Wish this focused more on climbing on actual rock, for a full day on the crag instead of a climbing gym workout... I can't imagine having a high carb meal for breakfast before going to the crag. How about carb loading the day before?
Hey, I am a Vegetarian that climbs and trains. Typically you want to look to have complete proteins. There are 9 amino acids that you need to get from your diet for a complete protein. One easy way is quinoa and lentiels which are together a complete protein. There are other ways as well but try to google based on "complete protein". Many Ultra marathoners use vegan diets so they may be a good resource as well! Good Luck!! :)
Soy protein has the best protein digestibility corrected aminoacid score of plant products. If you consume most of your protein from pasta or other worse protein sources, just need to eat more protein. So instead of 1.8 g/kg maybe go for 2 g/kg Anyway, all plants are complete. There isnt a single plant that doesnt have a complete aminoacid profile. Its a complete myth.
Check out nutritionfacts.org (also has a RU-vid channel). Dr. Gregor dives deep into nutrition and bases everything on science. There is EVERYTHING you need to know. Going vegan will probably boost your performance, if you center your nutrition around whole plant foods. Animal protein does not do your body any good.
Uhum... pasta and cereal bars are usually very good to boost inflamation wich is awsome when you are in a sport that pushes connective tissue to its limits. Carbs are awsome, but choose stuff without tons of antinutrients in the mix.
You might want to look into the research a bit more before making claims like that. Stronger by Science is a great podcast to learn about real science, not the Dr. Eric Berg-style un-science that floats around most of RU-vid.
It's easy: stick to things that have only 1 ingredient, but no isolates like sugars and oils (you can throw them together obviously for a meal) I consider whole grain pasta to be healthy, but you should have them split up in to maximum 2 meals a day. Other than that I eat oats, nuts and vegetables. Only drink water, coffee, and tea without additives. If you're vegan have your vit.B12 and a good source of omega-3 fatty acids (chia seeds, walnuts), maybe vit.D if you're a nightshift worker or not out in the sun much, and you're good. Once in a while if you have an easier day try to eat nothing for that day. I'm 40 years old, athletic, everyone thinks I'm much younger. Take good care of your bodies folks 💟🌌☮️
Great question. Personally I find it easier to get into a routine of drinking 12oz water before I even eat breakfast, and then another 12oz after breakfast. This helps "get the ball rolling" and start off getting ~25% of my need done right away. I think that changing up from just regular water can be useful too. Carbonated drinks (not sodas / sugar drinks) can be quite useful! But in general, getting into a routine with it, especially around meals, not only is useful for staying hydrated but also to help reduce over-eating (if that's an issue, if not, then use caution with that advice)
How is the new data look on the body only able to absorb 20 -25 g of protein per every 3 hours or so? Been playing with this method after 5 years of intermittent fasting. I'm excited to see the data on my body. Should be interesting.
What about collagen supplements and vitamin C. Do we need it and how much should we take? Also in terms of protein intake per day, could you illustrate what that looks like in pictures?
I was wondering how come the general rule of thumb for climbing protein is 3/4 of the pounds of the athlete in grams while the rule of thumb for bodybuilding is just the amount in pounds but in grams of protein. Recently I started eating less protein and more carbs and I have been feeling stronger climbing.
Glad to finally see a nutritionist saying too much protein is detrimental. I only eat fruit... for 5 years now (8 years vegan - 3 years whole plant food prior). The most protein we need in out lifetime is when we are babies, the ideal food for babies is breast milk that has a maximum of 5% protein out of al calories. Fruit has about 2-4% protein. Of course, more protein the easier to get more muscle (promotes growth hormone) but it's not healthy (acidic and promotes growth of everything, like cancer cells too). Even a vegan diet (whole plant foods) have too much protein, that was when I was the strongest in my life (61kg body weight 10% body fat and benching 80kg as max rep, squatting 80kg 15reps x 3) Fruit is out ideal food, simple "sugars", low fat (lean body/muscles can assimilate sugars into the muscles easy in for of glycose). I'm still strong enough (56kg body weight 5-7% body fat, bench 70kg, squat 55kg 18 reps + 16 reps + 14reps). I'm way more active than before despite less peak strength, I climb, do weight training, BJJ, muay thai, train every single day, some days 2 or three sessions. fruit is fast to digest, less energy wasted and faster readiness after a meal to be active, do exercise, NO GI distress which is awesome (as long fruit is good quality, sweet and ripe). I have no protein deficiencies (whatever that means because it doesn't exist on hospitals patients), my hair grows well, nails, good skin (better than ever in my life), I have good muscle mass and I'm not the only one, I know other fruitarians the same as I. I probably eat a maximum 40g of protein per day, I'm 1.7m (5'7") and 56kg very lean. the amounts of recommended protein is insane. Happy to send you more info, also have a super jacked calisthenics fruitarian friend, 50 years old and looks like 30.
Not that I heard , but that's something you should heavily research if you're planning on doing it. Lots of really good /informational videos out there on doing it properly w/o impacting yourself negatively. If it's being done for fat / weight loss....there are (arguably , not really though) many better methods.
@@HoopersBeta Could probably fill a 20 minute video only talking about essential nutrients to get during your "eating phase". And another 30 on how it impacts men and women differently combined with how long they should do it etc. That being said, I'm sure it , like all of your other videos would be super intriguing to watch. That's an official TY for the knowledge , much appreciated
I would love a bit more practical examples. Not only the terms carbohydrate, micronutrients etc. But more like eat 3 eggs, a 300 gram salad with this and this in it. Or some advise on linking both efficiently for a food dummy.
Your insulin receptors are most sensitive in the morning and after exercise (i.e. eat carbs in the morning), so fat fits into an eating pattern best in the evening after you've exercised.
how can there be a career based on something where half the time the person says "whatever works for you". I mean, it's definitely true. Eat different things at different times and see how it feels and find what works for you. Trust your gut and cravings and that's that. There's nothing to study or learn except from how your own body reacts to what you eat
another extremely valuable pro tips episode! learned so much from this. i even thought our local coaches in all sorts of sports do not know any of these. pretty sure most aspiring athletes all around the world lack access to sports science. Thanks Doc! would surely follow Coach Sav. "Im gonna have to SCIENCE the sht out of this." - Mark Watney (The Martian) :)
I'm 100% that protein dummy. All I need to recovery properly is protein right? While I know deep down it's not true it feels like it's a simple strategy that addresses the main source of soreness. But that's probably nowhere near right.
It's the warm blood and soft meats following the effort of the hunt, so while the lab science mightn't be settled, nature's long term experiments give your approach some credence
new thing learned: protein also becoms fat. i always wanted to be on the safe side and drink that protein (as a vegetarien or vegan evn more importend) but now i will dose less in my protein drinks and i will also try to drink more water during my week.
The example is targeted at a lean male. Be nice to hear about glycogen levels in average folks training hard with plenty of triglycerides to unlock in their fat cells.
I am a bit confused about this video compared with the video where you eat Huel only for a month, in that you say you consume about 2700 calories of Huel in a day, and if I have calculated correctly that is roughly 115 grams of carbs. Comparing that with the example of needing 4 grams of carbs per kg of bodyweight if you eat 4 hours before training, or 1 gram per kg bodyweight 1 hour before, you get 280 grams and 70 grams respectively (with your bodyweight 153lbs). It seems like no matter how you spin it, you are not getting remotely enough carbs for a single workout by eating only Huel. If you eat 4 hours before a workout you would need more than twice your daily intake of huel, if you eat 1 hour before you would need a signicificant portion of your daily intake in one serving. Am I getting something completely wrong here? I have started consuming Huel when I want to go climbing after work, and I think it works great for several hours of climbing without hunger, but I am a bit confused about whether or not it is supposed to work well for someone who works out a lot. I don't use Huel to replace my normal lunch though so in any case it's fine for me, but I am still wondering.
What Huel product are you calculating 115g of carbs from? The typical Huel 3.0 powder has 37g carbs per serving (400 cals), so 2700 calories of that would be 250g carbs.
A century ago doctors were actively recommending smoking tobacco to improve health, there will come a time when health authorities realize that it wasn't the best idea to focus on carbs consumption dismissing fat as a by-design viable energy source almost entirely... Until then, registered professionals are required to encourage you to eat mostly carbs then protein and as little fat as you can manage or they can lose their license... There is your grain of salt for your health...
It is just an inefficient way to harvest energy. First your body has to deaminate the amino acid and then it has to use the by-products to create glucose via gluconeogenesis.
A vegan edition would be awesome! My recovery times are literally nonexistent at this point, and my pump feels really soft and comfortable, despite climbing hard. Plus, no tortured or mutilated animals!
Haha fair! Aside from just experimenting with different foods, you could go with the extreme in actually getting testing done to see what you react well to?
@@HoopersBeta Oh i hadn't thought of that! I'll look into it :) And thanks for replying! Your channel is a wonderful source of sound advise! I appreciate what you do a lot!
I'm with you here. But there is zero consensus amongt sports nutritionists. Most seem to still be blindfolded by handling only "kids" where eating junk doesn't show its effect as much 😅. I recall being creeped by my iron man athlete cousin's diet and warning her those were very unhealthy foods! But her team's nutritionist planed it that way and she followed. Years later she changed teams and the new nutritionist followed what I had studied was a healthy plan. She came back to me saying she felt waaaay better, her joints, her recovery, her steadier energy levels, etc... nutrient sources are everything!
I'd be interested to get your opinion on Emil's latest block of hangboard training described in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sBTI9qiH4UE.html
This is BS I started a zero sugar zero carb high fat high protein diet and I have way more energy climbing and lifting than I ever did on carbs. Just eat protein &fat at a 1:1 ratio and you'll have all the fuel you need with stable blood sugar
This is not helpful at all as she has very limited understanding of climbing. Everything she talked about applies loosely to generic exercise training but not at all specific to climbing. Climbing puts unique metabolic stress on our bodies, in particular on connective tissues i.e. tendons, ligaments, joint capsules, etc. and not so much on muscles. I'd be more interested in subjects such as collagen supplementation.
While I disagree that this was "not helpful at all", I would also like to hear more on collagen supplementation and foods specifically beneficial for joint health
Let me help you. Collagen supplements do not work. Proteolytic enzymes break down collagen into aminoacids in your digestive system so you are just consuming overpriced, underdosed and poor protein source. Collagen could not even be absorbed in its current form so it must be broken down. Also, climbing is not unique. All sports put huge strain on ligaments and connective tissues. This is why you need protein, to repair muscles and the connective tissues. Climbing puts huge stress on muscles. All pro climbers have crazy amounts of strength in their back and forearms. They drop off the wall because their muscles fail so the sport is limited by muscle performance.
You couldn't be any more wrong . TRY KETO and change how you eat then see how hard you can climb. You also do not need any fibre in you diet another myth that is not true
She may be awesome but she needs a better microphone if I´m to listen to her for more than 2 answers. Sorry: the fuzzy sound does something to my brain and I can´t stand it. Otherwise great channel.
@@mateherbay2289 wow your comment is so useless, because it ads no benefit. you seem like a lowlife person. all i sad is a fact, maybe it blowed up your small mind.
