We followed your video, we watched numerous videos on a faux garage door, with you sharing and meticulous preparing a completed job we are proud of, thank you for sharing
Thank you SO much for saying so! Showing our mistakes, and how we think THROUGH these problems is one of the big promises we made when we started the channel. We have had a few complaints from people who didn't watch the entire video. Maybe we should add some text earlier in the video that says "MISTAKE WARNING" with a countdown for less patient people 🤣. I couldn't agree more😊
So coooool. Ex scenic here, learned the broom trick from an old scenic artist in Brooklyn years ago. Lots of distance on my old broom ( worked on floor)
Fantastic! Thank you! You have no idea how much help you’ve been! I’m redoing a piece that was my granny’s so I want to get it right! Not sure yet what I am going to do for sure but I still needed to know this!
Gratuitous Sets Just saw you responded months back. I finished my granny’s old Bombay dresser and have done a couple other projects since then. I’ll check out your fb and I’ll share pics as soon as I get settled back home. I’ll traveling right now.
I was expecting an oak finish. Instead, it looked like pine again.....🤔 I guess if the board would have been stain it would have been less work and looked the same🤪. Nice try! Keep it up man.
That is the kindest of compliments! If I could change one thing, I would add a "failure countdown" clock. Some people don't wait for the end- they click off as soon as it starts looking crappy 🙄
Sorry for the delayed response- I'm not sure it would work, but it's worth testing on a piece of scrap. DEFINITELY clear coat between colors. The benefit of gel stain here is that it's slightly dimensional (kinda stands up) when applied, so there's heavy color left behind after graining. I wonder if there's a way to thicken regular stain... If you test it, PLEASE let me know what your results are- it could be handy. 😊 -Mark
Great video, it looks simple enough to do, with max effects. What colours would I need to create a deep red mahogany look on spandrels (metal T&G slats)? 👍👍👍
Love the video. Great tips. I'm wanting to paint a steel pergola to look like wood. My question is, do you have techniques to paint end grain? I need the end of the beams to look like the end of a beam. When I search, I find videos on sealing end grain, but not how to simulate it.
That is not a graining comb. It's a rocker grainer. I remove the grainer from the handle before using. You can squeeze it together before dragging it across the surface.
Thank you, great video 1- In the beginning you have mentioned the natural stain however later on you said clear coat twice, is there a difference in materials or they both the same? 2- For the wiping stain, can I use a lighter colour or it has to be the one you have used (dark brown) knowing that the timber I'm using has lighter grain colours? 3- After painting and creating the good looking of the natural grain, can I apply weather proof varnish? it says on the product that it must be applied on bare timber but I'm thinking to sand the timber after the pain but just worried that the created pattern will be removed. Can you please advice? Many thanks
I would start with natural stain, then clearcoat twice. Your choice of stain color for the grain. Clear coat once more to seal in the faux grain, then weather proof varnish. 😜
Glaze is slightly more translucent and can give a tiny bit more working time. Gel stain (also called "wiping stain" is easy to buy off the shelf. Glaze is less common and must be custom mixed. Both can be used with this technique but, glaze is water based so, you'll need to clearcoat in water based polyurethane. With the gel stain, aerosol can clearcoats can be used. BTW, this is the BEST question I've been asked on this video! Thanks! 👍👍
I lived in a house that had a ton of trim done in "gum wood". Turns out that "gum wood" is just a term painted faux wood done in the ? 20's - 30's. It looked fantastic. I was there for more than a year before I realized it was a painted surface. Or maybe I'm just slow?
@@GratuitousSets Full shoulder high wainscoting on a large dining room and a bunch of doors. I was also in a house that had some that was not to that quality and you wouldn't be fooled but the first place was impressive.
Thanks for the video. I'm a bit surprised that you didn't use conditioner before the stain to prevent blotchiness. Is that the function of the natural stain?
It would have helped, maybe? In the end, I ended up clear coating the piece so the pine acted as just a base color. I don't know if conditioner would have done that well enough. Great observation, though! Thanks!😊
Using a paint can key helps keep the pry edge from getting dented so it can seal better (especially true if we are going to open and close a can several times)
Can the finished product then be stained again using a standard oil based stain in order to darken the entire piece? I’m trying to stain my staircase of junk pine and it just isn’t working very well.
I would start with this faux oak technique seen here, then I would use TONER, not stain to darken the stairs. I have a section of a video here about how I make toner (cheap and simple) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r_jRAQrMJAk.html . You can call or WhatsApp me and I'll talk you through it. My number is on our Facebook page! 🤪
Thank you for your video. Quick question: I'm going to make raised panel cope and stick cabinet doors with pine, but need the oak look. Can this process be used and, if so, should it be done BEFORE the door pieces are glued together. Additionally, what might I do to avoid the stains getting into the glue areas? Thank you very much.
Hi, dman!! Yes, it would be best to dress each panel before assembly, although it can be done afterwards. I would, then, apply toner after assembly. Each stile and rail will look more "real" that way. Getting a little stain in the glue areas shouldn't be much of a problem but, you could mask the male sides of the joints if you get squeamish. Here is a video showing stile and rail graining of a piece that is already assembled, but the pieces are square (lacking any profile) so, while not ideal, it works okay here. PS- Tony had never done any graining before. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CifxuPV8_3s.html Call me if you have questions (my number is on our facebook page) -Mark
Hi, I'm Christopher. I'm currently Refinishing Red Oak in a Church. Full mechanical strip and Clear Water Bourne Urethane. There are doors involved in this process. New wood (red Oak Doors and casing material is involved as well). When the New doors arrived on site it was obvious immediately the doors were White Oak, not Red. I have been told by the Construction company "you need to do something." If it were Red Oak needing to become White, it would be more realistic. Have you ever made White Oak lighter to match Red oak? Thanks, I hope you get this. Christopher
Christopher! Call me or let me know that you copied my number so I can delete it from the comments🤣 I can probably give you some red/white oak advice ---> call me at 214-529-0045 -Mark
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to match my builder pine stairs to my hardwood. The hardwood is a medium/dark gray distressed oak. At what point during this process would you stain gray? Should you start with a gray base, use gray gel stain for graining or follow what you did and stain gray after the graining process? Would the pine still absorb enough stain to get dark enough after all the sealing to make the grain? Also, any tricks to get the edges where the stairs recess into the stringers?
Stain to the lighter shade first, then seal. The Graining shade shouldn't really absorb, just sit on the surface to be manipulated with the graining tool. Amazon sells smaller graining tools for those hard-to-reach areas. You can see them in this video---> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CifxuPV8_3s.html Let me know if this helps and you can call me for a chat if it might help. -Mark
I think the best base color is a pale version of brown mustard- like Grey Poupon color. I have a really short video that shows the base color and the technique. Let me know if you want it and I can shoot you an email -Mark
I use a lacquer clear coat so it dries almost instantly. I guess about 10 minutes just to be sure. If you give me an email address on our Facebook page I can send you a simpler, better video 😁
Gratuitous Sets And thank you very much for the video. I am attempting to stain and finish an unfinished bathroom freestanding cabinet. Lol Wish me Luck LoL
very clear and helpful! straight to it too! did you overlap strokes a bit? slightly distracting but on a humorous note; the two dark items in the background kept lining up with your ears and gave you a bit of a Mickey look on several occaisons. Gonna check out your other posts and look forward to new ones
Thanks! I try not to overlap since each successive stroke uses the previous one as a reference for keeping parallel. Now I gotta see this Mickey Mouse thing!! This other video we did goes a bit deeper...--> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CifxuPV8_3s.html
Yes- I actually have a short video I can send you a link to. The MDF needs to be painted first. You can message me on Facebook at Gratuitous Sets Laboratories or email me at mark@gratsets.com
Anytime! I have a great time talking to our subscribers- you guys are fantastic- please feel free to ask ANY questions- I look forward to helping each other- I’m sure you have the answer to a question I have not formed... yet!
OOO- Sorry I JUST saw your question. The graining comb is sold at Lowes and Home Depot if you're in the states. Most "big box" home improvement stores sell them if you're in Europe or Australia
Hickory, but it would vary based on whatever stain I was using on the piece I was matching, or what color you want the final piece to be. Here I was starting with pine, but the same technique works on MDF, etc- just start by painting the piece a brown mustard color.
If it HAD been a Biff Tannen reference, that would have been AWESOME! I sometimes say random stuff to camera, like, "Please remind Phillip he still owes me money." or "Tell your brother we miss seeing him around" every once in a while it makes it through the edit, lol
Hi guys! I can't really tell via photos on the internet, but can someone please tell me how realistic does this look like in person? I plan on using this method as a backup, in case the Baltic birch plywood I intend to use for my project, ends up with a blotchy finish once stained. I really would appreciate any help, as this will be my first ever project (knock on wood tehehe). Thanks :) .
@@GratuitousSets Thank you my friend, I was really hoping that you would reply. I very much appreciate your help :) that is great indeed! I was also wishing that they would, because this technique looks like a lot of fun to do. I will put it in a message below this one, so that I can delete it later ( the internet can be like the wild west some times lol, so you can never be to careful).
@@GratuitousSets Thank you buddy, you are the best! I really appreciate you going above and beyond for your audience :) Thanks again and I hope you are yours are saying well in these crazy crazy days. :)
I read your email- If you have WhatsApp (I assume you do, GB correct?) Call me at 2145290045. I have some good process information to share, and would be happy to hold your hand as you move forward. I'm in Dallas in the US, so if you call me at 7-9 pm your time, we can spend as much time as you like. I might have some viable ideas, but I'd like to get a better idea about how you'd like the end product to look. Sorry about the delayed response -Mark
Lol... but, she owes me money!!! Oh, wait... that was your mom’s friend, “Dawn” ... sorry. Tell your mom I didn’t mean to disturb her, but, her friend “Dawn” had better watch out.
