I'm a truck driver and doing some work on my truck saves me a ton of money and with just this video you saved me around $2000.00 bucks. I thank you and God bless you.
I know these are older comments, but I’m going to throw this out there anyway, just be careful , I killed the compressor in a freight liner, that cost goes way up when it gets screwed up and your buying parts and not just cans of liquid. I recommend you plan out a step by step procedure and follow it carefully and try to limit distractions while you preform the job. If I would have done something like that I wouldn’t have had to buy that compressor. Good luck my friend.
Nice. I have some step by step instructions from 2006 for vacuuming and charging the AC system. It differs slightly from what you say. First, it says to open both valves when vacuuming and 2) it says to "flood" the system with liquid via the high side until it takes no more after vacuum is complete. This should only be done during pre-charge (i.e. after vacuuming and before adding refrigerant via the low pressure side port) and then close the red valve. Next to make adding refrigerant faster to jumper the AC cycling switch (if possible but not necessary) to force the compressor on (in my case jumped the AC cycling switch on my Cobra and Ranger) and add refrigerant via the low pressure side. At this point you don't want to open the red valve while charging the system. I used this method to convert my 95 Cobra and 94 Ranger from R12 to R-134a without issue (i.e. pre-charged via high pressure side). Is the way you present charging the new school method?
I had to replace condenser after it got damaged in a wreck. System was empty when I did repairs. Do i need to add oil to it since its a new condenser? Rest of the ac parts remained the same. Thanks
I've been a formerly certified mechanic for a mere 20 years now(started with my dad, to a business and now on my own).I've been telling people I know jack smack about HVAC on a vehicle. I couldn't take it anymore. Watched this video all the way. Now I can add a new extremely basic service for ac recharges. We are in Texas, AC is year round these days except for 2 months. Thank you sir. This is a blessing from God and you shared your bread with others. I'll cherish it.
Using my manifold set- I'm recharging through the low Port ONLY- the low Port coupling is obviously open. My question is-your highport coupling is open so this way you can READ the pressure on the manifold gauge... The High valve on the manifold gauge NEEDS to be closed...BUT the coupling on the high side is OPEN for reading on the manifold gauge? Is that last part correct??
@@coyoteserranoband Yes, follow what he did in the video. Close the big red knob before connecting the refrigerant in fact, close both knobs ( blue and Red low|high ) before connecting the yellow service line to the refrigerant. open the blue knob after you bleed the yellow line of air and open that knob only at the manifold and very slowly.
We say turn the bottle upside down because we "crack" the valve open where it is released as a GAS not liquid in the gauge set, and again once it enters the system. You can do it either way. Also leave the high side valve closed when vacuuming down, it wont vacuum faster with the valve open, it equalizes through the orifice or expansion valve, no problem.
Just a quick FYI from a licensed residential HVAC technician, the top port on the vacuum pump is for a normal residential ac hose hook up, not out dated lmao! It’s appears the vacuum pump can do ur home ac or vehicle. A lil late but thought I’d help u guys out with that tidbit 😊
@@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESELIt’s for ALL applications other than automotive, and is not specific to ANY refrigerant. It’s a 1/4” Flare fitting. The collet QD fittings are ONLY used on newer automotive systems.
The most descriptive demo that I've seen on RU-vid in this field. Your expertise is 'spot on'. A pleasure to learn from you. Thank you. LWJ Qld, Australia.
Thank you very much for your video! Since my husband passed away, I have learned to do many car repairs thanks to kind people like you who share knowledge! I have replaced my vvt solenoids, my blower motor, the ac circuit board, changed the oil, and more. I am now hoping to get my ac running again because this 100 degree temperature in Houston is killer. Not to mention, only 1 of my windows rolls doen, my car is black, and I work as a window cleaner outside. I am sure my coworkers would be happy if I can get my ac working...lol! Thanks again!
NO WAY IM IN THAT SITUATION RIGHT NOW. I live in Houston, AC system went out, only one window works and car is black... Will be attempting to fix it myself.
I’ve charged my a/c a couple times. And I refresh my mind when I do it. And this really is the best video I’ve come across. And I like how you re-iterate the Do’s and Don’ts.
For everyone asking "Why is there a high side valve if we don't open it?!" It is there to vacuum it down the system a little quicker. The reason I said don't open it is the system is a loop and just vacuuming via the low side will accomplish the same goal a bit slower. BUT if you forget to close the high side when you turn the car on with the keg attached the system pressurizes with the valve open it back feeds into the refrigerant keg and explodes most likely injuring if not killing you. Good? Good. ALSO You don't need to add any in this instance because nearly zero is lost. If you put too much oil in the system won't work at all and is very easy to do. If pag oil was important in this instance I would have mentioned it. -Ryan
Old-timer here.Decades of MX/Engineering in Aerospace. You're the REAL DEAL, Ryan. You're an excellent educator. You emphasize the danger points well. People DEFINITELY need to hear those safety points over and over. Thanks for another excellent video and keep up the great work, young man.
To say the least, great video. I have been servicing my vehcile's A/C system for almost ten years, and this young man helped me learn something new. Thank you!
I'm 50 years old, have been working on cars for 35 of those years, and am quite arrogant. But I cannot believe how much I learned while watching this video!
One of the best instructional videos I've seen yet. Your demo and step by step explanations are perfect for the average person with little to no experience in performing this procedure. You have saved many who watch this, tons of $$$$. Great job! 👍🏼
It would have been nice for you to use the 'little-guy' cans to see what to do when emptying one can and starting another the way a DIY home mechanic would do. Thanks for the video - very helpful!
So at 11:51 you shut off the valves on the manifold. That means that you cut off flow from the vacuum pump to the red and blue lines going to the car AC. The blue gauge is also cut off from your car AC. So how does that prove that your car AC lines and fittings are not leaking ? All what you have done is to show that the valves at you manifold and the yellow line to the vacuum pump is not leaking but you have not shown that your car AC lines and fittings are not leaking !
God bless you for this. I have the entire dealership's maintenance and repair manual from GM for my 2003 Chevy Silverado Z71, and 95 percent of it pertains to other trucks. I spent days trying to understand something bigger than an NYC phonebook, and you explained more than it could in all of a few minutes!
No I didn't. I used this pump and gauges literally this morning working perfectly fine. There isn't a check valve if the high side on the gauges are connected they are getting vacuumed too. Peter commented without knowing what he was talking about. Don't be like Peter.
Followed this guide and purchased the recommended kit on amazon, about two hours after it arrived I had my AC fixed and blowing colder and stronger than I can remember! Thank you for an excellent and helpful video!
@@LandenBMS I did not, my system used about 4 12oz cans of Super Tech 134a refrigerant I got at Walmart along with a can or two of AC refrigerant oil from the same source.
I agree as the gauge set I have works this way but I imagine on their part it has more to do with safety. Most out there dealing with HVAC systems don't have a clue. Best 99% of people don't mess with the high side valve.
I also agree. I would open the high side as well when evacuating the system. Other videos do that so this. But when filling would have high side closed.
Hey there, when pulling a vacuum on a system, it means to remove air or moisture out of the system. As you can imagine, air and moisture exist in a "vapor" state. The Low side of the system is vapor only, while the high side of the system is liquid only. Therefore, you don't have a need to open the high side if you're not working with the high side. Hope this helped!
@@CipherVillain Well that would be true if you have a working system but if it has lost it's liquid or integrity pulling vacuum on both sides make the most sense. Correct me if I'm incorrect here.
@@curiosity2314 you're absolutely right, it is good to pull if for both! I was just referring to having both sides of the gauge ports open while pulling on suction. You can use the high side to monitor refrigerant while pulling low side just not both at the same time. My bad if all I did was just confused people😅 I just noticed Shamway had it right--
I know that it’s taught about the efficiency of liquid charging, but few people know that it also builds head pressure very quickly, and has, on more than one occasion, damaged compressors, and even blown up discharge hoses. If I’m not being paid by the hour to do it, I am more than content to babysit the damn thing and gas charge, then, there is little to no chance of slugging the compressor. Unless the system is a walk-in cooler or something, the time saved by liquid charging is really not worth the damage it could do. I will say that I have learned some things from this video, however. Keep up the good work of making sure that people out there realize the potential they have to hurt themselves if they don’t do this correctly.
Thank you for that great video! Very helpful and was quite confused about the red Gage watch lot of videos no one ever mentioned it or even what pressure it should be. I just did two vehicles and both of them are perfect first time I ever attempted an AC job.
Wow. Every one of these videos I watch I just get more and more confused. I've watched like 4 in a row and they all said different things about when to open and close the various controls.
@2carpros isn't wrong about they process, but it's not the only way. If you follow the steps in this video, you will be ok. But, he is completely wrong about his aerosol logic. Hairspray and A/C do not get cold for the same reasons... at all. Hairspray (and most other aerosols) feel cold on the skin from the process of Evaporation on your skin, after the atomized mist falls out of suspension... Not the pressure change from leaving the can. It's actually the can that loses heat in that process. Remember... Water from a hose feels cold when it's misted over you & it's not high pressure. It's the extremely small size of the droplets, they can't hold heat. Recap: liquid atomized into a fine mist - rapidly loses heat. That Mist falls out of suspension (lands on you) & turns to a thin layer of liquid on the skin - the evaporation process begins. Additionally, the air going across that thin layer of moisture also removes heat - The cold feeling on your skin. This is why we sweat, not how our ac system works.
@@NemonicsRacing this is 9 months old and I'm not even really watching his thing but... While you're absolutely correct about the evaporation of the things leaving an aerosol can, landing on your skin and then evaporating.... A can contains pressurized gas. Sometimes it's even pressurized enough to be liquid within the can. When you expel those out to the atmospheric temperatures that can itself gets cold, for the same phase change reason as your air conditioning system. The best aerosol can example of this is actually the AC cans themselves when you go to recharge the system. The reason they get cold as you're feeding it into the low side of the AC system is that they're going from highly pressurized into a liquid, and phase changing to a gas. So while nothing you said is wrong. Nothing he said is wrong either. You just misunderstood what he said.
Thanks a ton for the video! First timer here - I was able to successfully vacuum and recharge my Truck thanks to this video. I was so happy that I started singing "Hallelujah" when the cold air started coming out of the vents. The vacuum test gave me confidence that I had put the new condenser back together properly. Thanks again!
Local shops in may area wanted $150 to $250 to discharge the ac system, fee included refill with leak check. It may be a local regulation that prevent shops from only discharging an ac system
I'm having the same problem. It seems like shops are doing this to prevent DIYers from bypassing them to work on their own vehicle. They basically charge you for a full evacuation and recharge just to remove it so you don't save any money....
Just bought the vacuum pump off your link, hope you get your cut!! Loved your video, really really great video!! Keep up the amazing work!! May God bless your and your family
Great explanation! simple and helpful information, now let's see how it goes recharging my VW Jetta A/C... crossing fingers...😅🤞 now just need to look for a video showing how to add oil and leak dye...
Appreciate the video man, went to Harbor freight and picked up everything I needed to get this done. Never leaving my truck for hours at a shop to get this done again!
Dude - great video! I watched two others who had the same instructions - didn’t work. (they both say to open the High side too). Your instructions worked perfectly! Thanks!
I NEVER like videos or follow someone unless it's just the best information in the world for me. You sir, are the best. You explain soooo thoroughly each step that you answered all my questions. Most people skip the steps they think are obvious and common sense but then other people who are just following steps end up skipping important parts
I get the video but what i dnt get is how do i know how much r134 to add,my car takes 23ounces if its only low 2 ounces how will i know this on the gauge set, and how will i know when im filling that i added only 2 ounces so i dnt overfill !?
I believe you may have forgot to mention the maximum vacuum will decrease by 1 inch of mercury per 1000 feet of elevation. At 5000 foot elevation the maximum vacuum will be 24 inches hg. (29-5=24) Thanks for a good video.
THIS! I have been searching for this info- my beat-up auto zone loner vacuum had me thinking something was wrong because I could only pull 21 inches hg. But I’m at 6300 ft elevation.
What does it mean when you start pulling a vacuum and it start at +10psi. I replaced my condenser/pump/drier so I would expect to start out a 0. After 30 minutes its now sitting at 0. High and low sides are open as well as the yellow going to the new robinair vacuum pump. Are my snapon (old) guages reading wrong? Is there another condition that would cause this??
Great step-by-step video dude. You've explained the process better than many other videos here. I was a bit iffy about the vacuum and recharge process but your video has cautiously given me the confidence I needed. Subscribed. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
@@zacinnc78 - this is correct. This isn’t like a carpet vacuum; an A/C vacuum generally just removes the air and minor impurities like moisture particulate.
If I replaced most AC parts except the compressor ( replaced condenser, AC core, etc.), do I need to add Pag oil and if so, directly to each the accumulator, condenser and AC core? Is what is in the compressor enough? System takes I believe 8oz. of Pag oil. All this before evacuating and recharging of course. 1993 GMC Sierra, 5.7, v8. Thanks!
You are the only honest person who explain how to release freon without going the shop to steal our money when they do the same, we going to do if their machine is broken. for that I will give you my thumb up. -- I saw many open both low and high to do the vacuum. so, you say better only low side? -- why at 13:24 you lose the yellow hose instead of pushing the bleeder valve you have on top? -- Why don't you have the high side connected to the port? then I saw you connecting it. --So basically, you add freon with car off, then when equalize both gage you turn the car and a/c to add the rest?
Watched another highly viewed YT video on the same subject and couldn't get it to take a charge. Set me back about a week. The instruction to keep the high side valve closed was never mentioned in the other video. It made all the difference! That one detail and that it was written on the valve handle. My car took the R134 like a champ after I closed the valve. Many Thanks Sir!
9:40 interesting how there’s a mystery substance all over the engine on the top right side right after you took it to the ac shop to have it evacuated properly 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for this video, I have looked at many but many videos there's always one point they miss, Cant see anything you have missed here. Very clear instruction .
Just wondering if it's ok to charge liquid refrigerant (upside down) rather than gas on the low side? I thought low side you have to charge gas since you don't want liquid to get pulled into the compressor? Sorry If I am confused...
This saved my Bacon. I replaced a line that blew off. I'd installed my AC 6 years ago- my one and only experience w/AC- and had forgotten how to use the manifold gauges and vacuum pump. Great write up and greatly appreciated.
Great video! And love the "hypotheticals," everyone tells you the same basic standard liability lingo which leads to the same limbo. I understand it's bad for the environment and wouldn't do it anyway, but love the extra knowledge that comes with the hypothetical aspect. Thank you.
Just so everyone knows, auto shops are not as willing to evacuate the system as he makes it seem. I called 7 different shops before i found a guy who was actually willing to do it. Everyone else wants to do a full evac, recharge, and troubleshoot for like $250. So good luck
You should have mentioned how the gauges don't go through the valves. Found that on another video. Had to vacuum it twice. Fella's the gauge still reads with the valve closed.
That should have been self explanatory when he said to close the valve after pulling vacuum and wait and watch the gauge to see if there is a leak. If the gauge went through the valve there would be no way to know there was a leak in the system after closing the valve.
I am confused. I have seen other videos where they vacuum-down both the high and low side (open the red and blue valves). You say to NEVER open the RED valve. What am I missing?
2004 suburban with rear air.....Would a blocked orifice tube make me un able to pull a good vacuum? I can't get it to go past 9 and it should get to around 29? I had to replace my ac compressor. Only disconnected the 2 lines attached to it . They are seated fine and with new O rings( supplied by manufacturer) initially I got it to vacuum down to 29 and hold steady. Put in 2 cans of gas then when I went to put a 3rd can , it started blowing warm and my low side pressure went very high!. So I let the pressure out and basically started from scratch and now it won't vac to 29. Tried multiple times to no avail. Could it be a blockage?
Absolutely the best video out there to do this. Not only tells you what to do, but what NOT to do. Explains in detail exactly what it is doing and how the system is working. Really good.
You lost half your vacuum when you connected the high side line. Should have added some refrigerant first, then messed around with the high side. Always break the vacuum will refrigerant before you do something that will lose it.
@@ShyRage1 Correct. Break the vacuum with refrigerant. You want positive pressure in the system so when you make a connection, refrigerant will come out rather than air going in (not good).
I have a Kia soul 2012. 2.0L and the compressor are leaking a yellow liquid for some time. I've tried to seal it with RTV silicone, but I think is not working. Do you think I need to replace the compressor? This car has only 73 K miles, so why you think is leaking? We are in winter so we don't use it too much for now, but in summer this place will get 105 to 115 degrees. -- I have a quote to replace it for $ 1700.00
Great video. Good information. But I have to say, its enormously frustrating to watch 10 different videos on the same subject, and each one contradicts the other on some aspects. For example, some respectable videos will tell you DON'T turn the refrigerant upside down to force it out as a liquid because it can shock your AC and damage your compressor, which is designed to compress gas. Others will says alternate rotating the canister up and down so that you putting in refrigerant in both liquid and gas form, but not so much that it will hurt the system. Still others, like this guy, are telling people just to dump it all in as a liquid to speed up the fill, with no regard to any potential damage, just to save time. Hard to know what to do when newbies get such wildly conflicting information about the "right" way to do something like this.
Notice the guys saying not turn upside down are DIYers. The pros know that the whole point of a compressor is to turn liquid into a gas. It ALWAYS has liquid coming in to because it is in the loop after the condenser which converts the gas to liquid in order to get the cooling effect. So of course the compressor can handle liquid. Google image search for car AC diagram to verify this is true.
WHERE ya' gonna get the newest new R-437C refrigerant??? You MUST have an EPA LICENSE to purchase or POSSESS it and it costs about $400 for a half kilo of it (about a pound) system charge. All the EV's and MOST hybrids and most GM's use it after the 2022 model year. All vehicles equipped with "heat pumps" use it. It is TOXIC to inhale and MUST be trapped and "recycled". It comes in the purple cylinders and uses dedicated gauges. At the appliance parts store near me, (I needed a fan for my fridge) a "small" canister (4-5 kilos) was $8000 net with "used" exchange which is MANDATORY!
I just found out today after I went there to buy the tap valve for the can $10 and vacuum pump oil for$10. Damn it. Already bought my pump from offerup for $60 and my Pittsburgh gauge for $40 both from OfferUp
Best video I’ve seen! The short explanations of why something is happening helps to understand the whole process without overwhelming us with information. Thanks for the help!
Hi all, I’ve purchased a pump from Vevor and the ultimate vacuum is 5pa. The vacuum used is a 3x10 pa. So I wondering if this pump will do the job or if I have to send it back to upgrade? Can someone please help advise?
Why is my Air con fan inside cabin working intermittently? Fan speed set on Max. but sometimes I'll get medium airflow , sometimes max. airflow , sometimes zero airflow? Btw Aircon is very cold ❄️ if fan comes on.(so far so good for past 5days)
Anyone in the comments here still have a car with r12 and havent converted to r134a? My system in my civic is still r12 and I need some help and tips if the same process is the same as r134a vacuum and refill
Very helpful video, but shouldn't there be some mention of compressor lubricant -- or is that something to concern yourself with only if the compressor is replaced?
Does anyone happen to know if it's normal for air to blow out from where the expansion valve goes? I just changed it myself, and there is air blowing out from there when I turn the A/C on.... but it's able to hold a vacuum....
I’m not one to leave reviews but your instructional video was spot on!! You were clear with important information, didn’t drag out everything like a lot of videos I’ve watched! Thanks a bunch
You look familiar, you look like a guy I went to school with @ little elm anyways, I had a quick question! "What about the oil?" I replaced one of the lines and I need to pull the vacuum. My system s supposed to have 8oz of pag46 oil? And 46oz of 134refrigerant. (2003 Lincoln Aviator). [Option#1]......Should I pull the compressor off and pour the oil in that way then add small can of 134a?.... [Option#2]...... Two of the tiny tiny 4oz can of oil then bunch of 134acans? option #3 Is ok to use two of the big cans with 18oz "15" with 3oz pag+additives & a 12oz "10" with 2ozpag+add.?
hello sir i am a Hvac technician student i am confused how do you recharge liquid by suction line ? if you make a clear video on this topic it will be helpful for us
I followed chrisfixes video and my high pressure valve stuck open and blew out the refrigerant cause he didnt tell me to turn the car off and let pressure equalize before removing. He's a scam. Following yours now. Thanks.
If I use the little cans, do I still have the system equalize before turning on the vehicle? What if it doesn't equalize with one can? Do I then attach a second and continue until the system has equalized and then turn on the vehicle?
