How To Recharge an AC System - EricTheCarGuy 

Because of the small molecule of R134a, the refrigerant can commonly leak past the Schrader valves, especially the high pressure Schrader valve. The "dust caps" are actually an integral part of the entire system (per the EPA), being the last line of defense, so to speak, between the refrigerant and the atmosphere. There is a seal in the inside top of the cap that seals the top of the Schrader valve to theoretically seal the valve if/when the actual valve insert leaks. The "dust caps" need to be inspected for cracks and hand tightened to secure the system. Just wanted to mention that in case some folks think they are optional.

Thanks Eric. I have been repairing my own cars for 25+ years. Engine rebuilds, drive-train, suspension, even body and paint work now and then. There were a few things that were voodoo to me, welding and A/C. 10 years ago I started taking welding classes at the local community college and now I can weld anything I want. I've been watching your videos for a little while now and finally decided to get a set of a/c gauges and a vacuum pump. This video was my guide to my first home A/C repair and recharge. You are bringing knowledge to thousands of people and the comments enhance that by bringing in even more thousands of knowledgeable people to add to and acknowledge the information you impart. It is amazing.

What I found by listening to ac experts is low side pressure is ballpark of 1/2 ambient air temperature and for high side 2x ambient air temp. So adding refrigerant at 80 degrees ambient temp low side would be about 4o and high side 160. At 100 degrees low side 50 high side 200. They have stainless steel injector plungers that allow adding correct oil right at low side hook up. When I charged mine last 5 yrs ago I believe I added just under 2 oz oil with the oil injector, could have added some leak detector with it but hadn't thought to do it.

Great video, Eric! The yellow hose commonly referred to as the “Service Line”, because this lets you service the system. The adapter on the can is commonly called a “can tap”. Now there is a blue adapter for the can of refrigerant to prevent leaks, because the cans of refrigerant have their own shrader valves.

When you hook up the refrigerant canister YOU MUST PURGE THE YELLOW HOSE BEFORE CHARGING! It is done simply by the following: step 1: hook up yellow hose to refrigerant can. step 2: turn the can upside down and open the valve on the can so the refrigerant fills the yellow hose. step 3: at the manifold assembly briefly loosen the yellow hose until you get a small puff of liquid come out and seal it back. Then you can charge the system.

Great video, the center hose is called the charge hose, I noticed that when you introduced freon through the charge hose you didn't bleed the trapped air inside the hose, usually you need to bleed just a minor amount of freon to remove any air in the line. But great job all around.

Thank you Eric. You are the gift that keeps on giving. Love the clarity and the amount of detail you include in your explanations. That really helps with hacks like me. I have never been unsuccessful repairing anything after watching your videos.

Excellent video, Eric. Retired aircraft mx/engineering tech here. I like that you address the seemingly 'obvious' details. It's the little things that get you! You're absolutely correct: a/c systems are not for the faint of heart. Consequently; this should always be an "A/C for Dummies" course. You've done that. That's what makes you so good as an instructor. (BTW; I love "for Dummies" books/vids.) Remember; always keep on addressing all those little things (like the O-ring missing on a fitting; NEVER open the hi-press valve; safety glasses,etc.) that guys/females are too shy to raise a question about. Thanks and keep up the excellent work!

Dude, You have fixed so many of my car problems. Thank you sincerely john

Eric The Car Guy, Thank you for the info you make it look all so simple ... I got my Ford Ranger down to -25 and it held vacuum for several hours so I put the R-134a in the system and it went smooth ,, so no more driving around with the windows down ......

Replaced the condenser in my Dodge Durango last week, pulled a vacuum and recharged it. It is working now! Watching your video made it very easy! Thanks, and keep up the good work & videos!

I just did this this morning according to the video. I had the exact same symptoms and added R-134 as shown outlet temp dropped from 46 to 39-40 degrees F. Feels much better. Thanks for the helpful video!!!

Slugging the compressor, AKA hydraulic lock from liquid refrigerant can break the reed valves if not worse. Shaking the can at a 45-90 degree angle is safer. Though this too will feed slugs of liquid refrigerant, the slugs will likely be small enough to sufficiently gasify before they hit the compressor. After one connects the refrigerant bottle, one should purge the air from the center hose by cracking the connection to the manifold and leaking out some gas refrigerant. BTW, this particular type of purging is legally allowed. If you are topping off w/o vacuuming first, purging must be done instead at the car end of both the manifold hoses - before the valves to the vehicle are opened. Not purging hoses introduces moisture & incompressible air to the system. Introduce too much moisture and you are going to eventually sludge/acidity the refrigerant oil and this can lead to severe internal consequences such as "black death" that can ruin entire systems. Air raises pressures and decreases system performance. You also put an idler bearing back into service with what appeared to be pretty-new belts. You admitted these idlers are weak links - you are likely to have to go back in unnecessarily soon for that one. If I see an idler that spins as loose and free from thick grease as that old one did, I replace it - especially if I already have the part removed (though in the past when money was tight I did have luck popping off one of the seals, cleaning and regreasing them). BTW, in terms of top performance, the responses of the gauges to the compressor cycling tells me that air conditioner system was slightly undercharged (though with the air and moisture you introduced, it's hard to be sure of anything). A top-rate mechanic will have cleanliness concerns much like a doctor. Drives me nutty that you often don't clean the parts you are assembling better. In today's video, it appears you left dirt near the compressor shaft seal. I would have tried extra hard to get any potentially abrasive dirt out of there, as the compressor shaft seal is already a weak point prone to failure. Also, oftentimes your dirty gloves appear to be shedding dirt into critical areas without you recognizing it. For example, I try to keep the ends of my manifold hoses as clean as possible by handling them only with clean hands and keeping the ends connected to the manifold's storage fittings when not in use. You are clearly excellent at creating videos. Unfortunately, like many commercial mechanics, you have a few bad habits that in the long term, could end up leading to more breakdowns. Being that you are a leader in videos that cater to DIY mechanics that care more about their equipment than the average hack mechanic trying to make a buck, I expect better from you in this regard. But thanks for the excellent videos. And sorry to dog you.

If your fan was on high the compressor wouldn't cycle on and off. This is how you want to do it when charging. When your fan is on low the evaporator core is getting so cold that the thermostat is cutting off the compressor. We were always taught to turn fan on high when charging to prevent unwanted clutch shutoff..

I viewed your video last week several times and took notes. Saturday morning I replaced my Jeep's A/C Compressor that took, surprisingly, one hour - remove the old and mount the new. Taking a break from the exhausting heat (we live in Florida), I once again viewed your video. An hour later, back into the heat and following your time line, I was finished in 1 1/2 hours. Thank you so much for an excellent, well throughout and easy to understand video. BTW, I saved $225 in the process including the gauge manifold set. [I was quoted $422 for the job, including tax.] I am now looking over some of your other videos - just in case. God Bless!

Eric. I love your videos, i am not a mechanic by trade, but your videos some years ago gave me the little push that i need it to work on my own AC and get the tools. Now i work in my AC and my friends AC, i had changed compressors, valves, hoses, and obviously recharges. Now regarding the pressures that you get, my little experience had shown me that, the high side compression depende on various things like your said. * The AC Compressor power or status, i mean, a bad compressor will give your lows pressures on high side and some noises * The condenser debris or clean status, if its not too clean, the temperature will rise, rising the refrigerant pressure more than nominal values (i had that case on my fathers car)) * The charge quantity, if it is overcharged, you will see higher than usual both high side and low sides pressures * Finally the ambient temperature. On various cars i found there is a table with related the high and low side pressures in function to ambient temperature, i use those to diagnose my charge, i want it to be close, and, the weird part with your video is that i think is a little too low on the high side, like there is missing refrigerant still, because normally you will see on very chili days (about 18 degree) a low Side of about 30psi to a high side between 130 to 160 psi. Maybe your day was colder that 18 degree, this way, that pressures will be pretty perfect. Here in Medellin Colombia i have a ambient temp of about 30degree and that gives me a nominal low pressure of 40 to 50 psi to a high pressure of 250 to 270 psi. The chart is easily findable on the net. www.acprocold.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Temp-pressure-chart-33776F1.jpg Another tip that you maybe forgot to mention is, when you apply die or oil or ven the R134a gas to the system, you should purge a little bit the INPUT HOSE (i think that is the name jeje), so there is no air, moisture aggregated to the system. Again. Congratulations on your videos, i love them very much, i used this video as a start on the AC world, and i love every minute of it, i used too the brake pad change video, i even used my vacuum pump to vacuum by brakes while charging, i love to learn all about this and do your self a lot of stuff. Thanks Eric. P.S: Pardon my english, my primary language as i mentioned in another comment is spanish, so... i love english but i am nowhere an expert on it.

Make sure you read the labels on the r134a bottles completely because a lot of times it'll say 19 oz and you read the labels and it will really be 17oz and 2 ounces of "Additives" and pag oil.

Eric is an excellent instructor. I used many of his videos successfully. I replaced a compressor in a 2003 Elantra back in 2019 and used this video to learn how to vacuum and charge a system. The ac is still blowing cold. Thanks Eric.

You're a very good instructor. I took notes and soon I'll buy the equipment needed to find links, repair and possibly recharge the a/c system on my 1989 Ford E150. After eighty dollars for a recharge and twenty dollars for a hose replacement I had a/c for four days. Two weeks of running back and forth because there was problems with getting another unrelated repair right the mechanic simply wanted to send me somewhere else to spend more money. At this point I figure I have nothing to lose by trying to figure things out myself versus going blind on the word of others and paying whatever they demand and coming out no better off.

The reason your pressure was low was likely because you weren't putting any heat in the system with the interior fan on low. Also the low ambient temps probably helped too. Now if it's hot and your fans are on high inside the car and you still have low pressures it's probably the compressor has worn out pistons. I love AC work and enjoy tearing down old compressors. It's very enlightening especially when you know the symptoms it had.

Eric, great video! It's called the service hose of the manifold gauge set. Keep the content coming!

Just observations here. 1. When you didn't purge the center line you added air into the system. 2 never operate a compressor in a vacuum. 3 you could have started by charging vapor into the high side while the car was off. After it equalizes turn the high side off, start the car and charge the rest into the low side.

I can't tell you how many times I've used your vids, especially this one as a reminder of the steps. With that being said --- see what I did there --- I just noticed your high tech audio. I cassette to CD adapter. Well, at least I'm not the only one. BTW, good luck on whatever you are doing and enjoy. You've been a great help and I shall say; in some cases; a great instructor. Thank You very much for sharing your knowledge with ALL of us.

Great video with excellent narration. Very informative on the technical side. It never dawned on me to recharge my own vehicle's AC system but I'm a technical DIYer. The manifold gauges are the way to go. Thanks Eric - all the best.

Great Video Eric! it refreshed my memory :) This along with your other videos are always packed with easy to understand info.

Just found Eric's channel yesterday (go figure) some of the best vids I've seen on YT.

Love your videos! I just replaced the compressor and condenser on my son's car today. I bought my vacuum pump and gage set at Harbor Freight. I'm not a big fan of HF stuff but for this application, it seems adequate. YOU helped me through this. The money I saved versus taking it to a repair shop paid for the pump and gages. Keep posting! Your videos are the best! Thank you!! Winkel

Hi Eric. I'm actually a professional career pilot, but my hobby has always been restoring cars, especially the older ones. Your videos are great. I maybe a little bit more of a perfectionist, but you definitely come across as knowing what your doing, and most importantly, you show and talk about even your mistakes or errors in your first judgements calls that makes you a really do it yourself kind of guy that all home mechanics can connect and relate to. Great work Man. And just a small plug, the only other repair videos that I watch on a regular basis it are Kevin Tetz, Hands-On-Cars. By combining not only both of your knowledge, but also common sense and attitude, there isn't anything I can't fix on a car or truck, in budget, and do it right the first time.

Another great video Eric. Thanks. Note: Make sure your seal on your gauges good. I thought I had a big leak in the system and it was a bad low pressure seal on my gauges. My set was about 10 years old. Went got a new one and bam. Good to go.

Just a few notes from an AC GuyNEVER introduce liquid refrigerant into the system as bearing washout can occur and equal compressor damage or failure.ALWAYS weigh in you charge with an accurate scale, never trust what the can says.Run your fan on HIGH to move more air across your evaporator coil, thus ensuring sufficient evaporating of the refrigerant and less likely you slug compressor while charging.Make sure to PURGE the common/yellow hose after connecting the refrigerant tank. ALWAYSDon't let your compressor short cycle like in video. Jumper the LPC (Low Pressure Control) Switch if needed till enough refrigerant is in the system to maintain an adequate suction/back pressure to overcome the LPC setting.Test both LPC AND HPC (Low and High Pressure control switches before starting the new compressor (must be a reason why it failed in the 1st place)Add the refrigerant slowly. Its not a race. The low & high side pressures are relative to AMBIANT temperature so try using a PT (Pressure Temperature) Chart for the exact refrigerant you are using. R-134a/R-12, ect...

Great video learned so much. I have replaced all ac components in a 2008 Honda an had to pay someone to vacuum and charge system. Now I am working on a 2004 Lincoln Town car. I bought gauges and pump and plan to do the entire job and have learned so much. Thank You, Scott

Excellent vid, scared myself when I tried to do it myself years ago, found a local aircon expert - most was the same techniques as yours. Last recharge he found a very small leak but suggested a buy a leak sealant and add it myself, showed me where to buy and how to do it. It worked brilliantly for the next 3 years, then I sold the car.

Thank you Eric! Very helpful and gave me the courage to recharge my MX-5! Also saved me 200usd since I did it myself! Awesome vids, mate! Heaps of support and kudos from me!

Eric thank you, I love the way you explain the process of repairs and services. You go into such detail and go through every single step by step process that one must do.

Great video - I have watched at least 10 different videos on how to Recharge my A/C system in my Honda, this video was by far the best! Clear, covered all the bases and explained why you were doing each step! Thank you, nice job!

thanks for taking the time to show us this video Eric, I enjoyed it and learnt a couple things I did not realise, also I use the machine on ac systems and have never seen it don this way. keep up the good work. 🧤🧣

Thank you for answering a question that I have had for years. The connection ends on the side of the ac hose system . Always wondered what they were for.

Awesome presentasion. You're really good with those DIY's. Keep up the good work!

Lol I'm in the process of recharging my a/c right now but I found it funny and convenient that you have the same manifold gauges and vacuum pump that I'm using.

Thanks to my Mentor Eric.I bought my tools vacuum pump,gauge,die,oil etc and fix my own A/C.So great Cudos to Eric🙏🏾💯🤠

great tip on the oil fill in the center hose Eric. Can't believe I never thought of that..

Thanks for keeping it simple Eric.

Great video. Thanks! I was really putting off putting refrigerant in my car until I saw your video. It literally took less than 5 minutes and now I have super cool air on a 100 degree day!

Excellent video, I just swapped out a damaged condenser along with the accumulator/dryer on my Transit Connect yesterday with the help from your video. Kinda knew the basics beforehand, but your vid has some great tips and great step by step. Well done!

It's the Service Line.. I love your vids Eric.. pro shop here, and we still go to videos now and then for hints!

Eric, I really can't thank you enough. All your videos are good. Very well filmed, very clear explanations, and I always watch them again before I repeat a procedure I have done many times. It just avoids mistakes. I'm very grateful for your efforts. Tom

Not only you are a great technician but you are a great teacher and performer. Great job. I liked your video and gave you a thumbs up. Thank you for sharing your experience.

Digging through your archives to find an ac vid...just ordered myself a set of gauges to help fix my system...great work eric very helpfull as normal

good info -- as for subaru the service manual for filling after evacuation says to fill through the high pressure side without engine running then to go to low pressure side with it running. start up compressor is done by cycling the ac switch off and on several times to prevent shocking the compressor - leave ac on/engine running then go to low side to top off pressure

Eric, thank you por always putting good content and explaining it, great video 👍👍👍

Thanks Eric for yet another fantastic, professional instructional video. Have a wonderful day.

Excellent Video, Eric does a great job explaining each step of the process. We might as well call him "The Educated Car Guy"

Depending how close the low side connection is to the compressor will determine if you can invert the can of freon and for how long. I was taught to taught to turn it upside down until the needle moves then turn it back upright for a 20 or 30 seconds to allow the liquid freon that just went in to turn into a gas hopefully before it gets to the compressor. If the low side connection is real close to the compressor and you invert the can the liquid freon might not have enough time to turn into a gas and you could actually be putting liquid refrigerant right into the compressor and that could damage the suction valve. Use common sense. If the connection is real close don't try inverting the can. It will take a little longer but you can shake the can up an down and back and forth or dip the can in and out of a pot of hot water. Wear gloves the can gets real cold. PS: Before you charge the system after the can of freon is connected to the service/suction hose DON"T open the low side manifold valve until you loosen the connection at the manifold to PURGE the air that is in the service/suction hose. Loosen the service/suction hose fitting for a few seconds at the manifold and let freon gas flow out pushing out the air in the hose. Wear gloves you can burn your fingers if liquid freon touches your skin. Also wear safety glasses!

DO NOT TURN THE CAN UPSIDE DOWN WHILE CHARGING. By doing this you are introducing liquid refrigerant into the low side which can potentially sludge the compressor by washing out the oil in it. Keep your cans upright and take your time while recharging. In this demonstration it should also be noted it doesn't really matter, but if you are reading pressures, the fan should be set to high. Temperature on the components create different pressures, and air movement creates a exchange of these temperatures. Pretty good video though, thanks for posting.

You totally helped me recharge my system after I replaced my leaky condenser. Thanks so much! August in Texas is brutal!

Another major contributor to my knowledge even so far into my career (which you almost singlehandedly started) Thanks again.

Once again Eric, OUTSTANDING instructional video in detail. Saved to my Things-To-Do on my Audi this weekend. You should be paid for these and for all the things you have helped people accomplish. The amount of time you spend making and editing your instructional videos should be recognized. You have helped me more than 10 times accomplishing automotive tasks. Have a great day and again BIG THANKS for all you do.!! This Natural Light's for you.

I always bleed the feeder hose by opening the Schrader valve at the top of the yellow hose for a few seconds before charging. Otherwise, you will add the air from the hose (including ambient moisture) into the system. I know it is not a lot, but I prefer perfection.

Single mom diyer mechanic here. I noticed I didn't have an oring on mine and was told I didn't need it. I knew I was right! 💁🏼‍♀️ Now just waiting on the sun to come up so I can try to vacuum it again and check the pressure! I inherited an old broke down 04 mustang. Everything was wrong with it. Electrical to suspension to major engine work. You name it, I did it I swear. I did all the work myself and fixing it up. Got it running, inspected, and registered! Then the AC stopped immediately after in Houston weather. 😭 Replaced all AC components and could only vacuum to -22 psi on low side. I pray this is the fix (o-ring) and I can ride with AC again! God bless RU-vid and guys like you! ❤️ I cannot spend more money on Uber anymore! In a few hours, I hope to update with good news! Lord knows I need it! 🙏 Thank you again!

Excellent presentation. So good in fact that I have decided against doing this myself. I'll be taking it to my mechanic instead. Thanks for sharing yout time and expertise with us. Much appreciated.

The worst mistake you made was not charging the supply line. Always crack the supply line open at the manifold set to get the air out of the line before you start charging the system. As of now, you have an entire line's worth of air and moisture in your AC system.

Hi Eric. Turning the can upside down means you were charging the low side with liquid refrigerant is not good as you can slug the compressor. A compressor is meant to compress a gas, not a liquid. What i used to do to make charging a car's AC system go faster was set the can in a container of hot water. This speeds up charging safely. Anyone else want to weigh in on this? Thanks!

Excellent tutorial on how to re-charge and charging up your ac. Thank you for explaining all this in exact detail. You are AWESOME!!!!!

Eric, I have seen many of your videos. You are GREAT!!!! Thank you for your time teaching us out here in the NET world. I really appreciate the lesson.Tom Dove

Just a few nbservations. When you attach the refrigerant to the yellow hose bleed the air out at the manifold before opening the low side valve. Also the inner scale is inches of mercury below 0 psi then the scale becomes psi and the outer 134a scale is temp corresponding to the pressure shown in Celsius not Fahrenheit. Otherwise really well done. Thanks for posting.

Good teacher-u maded it easy to follow-Thank you

cool video, I just replaced the heater core on my 04 TJ. I was lucky to find a shop to empty the refrigerant out.Your video makes sense of it all, thanks.

Awesome video, just replaced AC system on my 1995 K1500 Silverado and this was extremely helpful. Thank you!

You have introduced air into the system. You should have purged the line between the refrigerant can and the manifold by loosining the hose end at the manifold and letting some gas flow out and pushing the air out, then retighting the hose. That amount of air will mess with the pressures and may also have water in it.

Turning the can upside down and charging liquid is not a good idea. It can slug the compressor as mentioned by some and damage it by blowing the valves out. It won't hurt to turn it upside down for a second or two but for safety's sake it should be moved upright again. This can continue to be alternated in this fashion. If the can won't empty fast enough palm it. Body heat can help. There are also can warmers and my favorite is a pan of hot water. When charging, try to keep the RPMs elevated (1800 or so) as that will drive the low pressure side down and in turn empty the can faster.

Thanks for the salient advice. I recently had a leak in the radiator fluid cap because I was idling for a year in the Starbucks line, and the fluid seemed to boil into the overflow tank and the engine failed, but the temperature gage was not all that high, although it was above the middle. I had noticed a bit of dampness also near the ac hose as it attaches from the rubber to the metal part. I’m just going to put in sealant and hope that it goes away. Works fine, you know. Corolla with 330,000 miles. Best gear I’ve had even with the slight transmission wobble which it had had at the beginning.

Thanks Eric. Great video. Learned more in this video than hours of researching on the web.

How do you purge the supply(middle) hose when you have dye/oil in it? Great video as always.

Great video Eric. Question... After evacuation, is it proper to air purge the yellow center hose by opening the refrigerant can valve and cracking the yellow hose fitting at the manifold until a small amount of refrigerant exits at this fitting so that any atmospheric air is purged from the line?

HOWDY ERICTHECARGUY...I have a 92 crown vic lx, with 280,000kms on it. had the throttle sticking problem, didn't know what it was causing it to hesitate and even stall on the QE2 in Alberta. Saw your vid, man that throttle was completely covered in thick gunk, cleaned it out like you showed, and it works great now, now I have to change the belt, followed your instructions, another triumph, thanks eh!

im a heavy equipment mechanic, recently got job with company that has lots of equipment w/ac have not use my ac taining in many years your ac videos and explanations are excellent.

I like the way this guy's explains things. really easy to understand.

the yellow hose is called the sevice hose

Great Video, I've worked an AC system before and you provided a great refresher. Keep up the good work.

I spent 15 years as a ASE certified master and Chevrolet certified. Back in the 80's we used R12, then R134 came out and was referred to as "OZONE SAFE". What happened? now you are killing children if Ozone safe R134 leaks out. I remember when you could no longer go to an auto parts store and buy R12 unless you had some type of certification card. Why can you now go into an auto parts store and buy R134 without any proof that you know what you're doing? I retired in 1998 so every now and then, I come to your site for a little reminder to help me along the way. Thanks Eric.

Every car repair forum or youtube channel on the internet insists on taking the car/truck to a professional service center to have the refrigerant drained so that you don't "drain it into the atmosphere." I called three shops around me, and none will do it unless they're doing the entire a/c job. Welp, I have not choice but to drain it myself it looks like.

Hi Eric, I love your videos! I was wondering if I replace a compressor and added the appropriate oil to the new compressor during install and then evacuated the system, does the oil I added get removed when I evacuate it? And do I then need to add oil to the system when I am recharging it? Thank you.

An outstanding video, lots of practical information and process steps. includes warnings to not damage the Schreader valves by over-tightening them.

Piercing-Valve Thank you Eric. Excellent tutorial :)

It's a pretty good idea to set your refrigerant can in some warm water to make sure and get the most charge out of the can and into the system, especially when you are on the last can.

You can rent the vacuum and gauges etc. From Oriellys 👍👍

Doing this for the first time replaced my accord compressor and drier and now I'm ready to add freon. Watching this and Chris Fix. Hope I don't screw it up. At least it holds vacuum. Held overnight didn't move a bit.

Man Oh Man... Thanks to this video I was able to recharge my Air conditioning on my car... Thanks Erick

Eric I love your videos but I really think you need to remake this one as you skipped a very important step. purging the air form the yellow hose.

Ok...got my vacuum pump. I'm gonna start to put a vacuum on the system. Wish me luck...

Always Enjoy Erics videos..... old yeah. but on POINT... her in 2021 doin my ole Lexus AC... original compressor ...new high pressure line... dryer.. temp runnin...41 degrees.. im a happy ole man

Thank you man! I had to replace my Heater Core on a Nissan Frontier 2001, and what a job.....! had to remove the passenger seat, front dashboard, center console, steering wheel cover, radio, ....AND A/C lines. while there found the "cabin filters" ..YUCK! They were like your house air filter that should be replaced every 3 months, so you can imagine what they looked like after 15 yrs!! Anyway, your video here was very very helpful, saved me a bundle. Good timing for the Season. So, Thanks Again!

I have a question. Does the oil also sucked up when you vacuum AC system? How to make sure that there is still the right amount of oil inside? Thanks in advance ;)

R-134a is not a CFC. R-134a does not deplete the ozone. However, It does create tropospheric ozone (ground pollution). So still should be properly evacuated.

Despite the fact you didn’t purge the service line, the information is very useful, thank you much, keep going!!

Hey Eric, I really like this video with your detailed explanation. Detailed explanation is very important especially when fixing the AC system. Thanks so much!

Don't turn the can upside down. You want to charge gaseous refrigerant, not liquid. Leaving the can right side up insures only gas enters the system. You'll notice the can gets very cold. This is caused by the liquid it the can turning into gas. Once the can gets very cold, the liquid won't turn to gas very quickly. To speed the process, you can stick the bottom 2/3 of the can in hot water.

The yellow hose is "malcolm" because it's in the middle

Great Job, Eric! Thanks! Followed your directions and it worked like a charm! Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR [Ret] 17 February 1969 - 1 August 2004

excellent video! thank you for explaining it in the detailed manor that you did as it was extremely informative and gelped me get my ac charged back up after i had to remove my hvac box from the dash to replace the broken blend doors and heater core.