How To Varnish Miniatures with Spray cans 

"Use your common sense" I love your faith in humanity. Now excuse me while I go and microwave my matt spray, haha

That bit should have had you put on 3 thin coats.

Something I came to realize after a few years painting miniatures is that there's a real obsession over completely matte finishes. IMO this comes in part from the world of realistic diorama modeling - especially gritty, battlefield military scenes. The problem is, matte varnishes, even brush-on, have powder in them in order to create the matte effect. Stop and consider that you're literally brushing or spraying grit onto your finished model. Ideally, the grit is too small to see and just mutes the shine of the clear varnish. But once you understand this, it's easier to grasp why frosting and grainy surface finishes often result with matte sprays. In my case, I honestly learned to love semi-gloss or "satin" finishes. A semi-gloss finish is similar to the natural sheen that a lot of paint has. There's a few big advantages to this I don't often see talked about. First, the satin sheen helps modulate the value of different paint colors. It brings everything together with a similar sheen, lessening the effect of a model being painted with a chaotic mix of paints that each have a slightly different texture due to pigments being different in each color. Second, satin finishes tend to deepen rich colors that become muted and chalky looking during the natural process of painting - washes, dry brushing, feathering, etc. Colors like deep reds, purples, and blues have their luster restored by a semi-gloss coating. (There's a reason semi-gloss clear coat is used for automobile body finishes.) Finally, I realized that if one is using models for tabletop gaming rather than fine art display, super-flat finishes aren't necessarily good for the distance one is viewing the models from. It is of course, a matter of taste. But I find satin finishes provide enough shine to help tiny figures stand out on the table top. And make it easier to tell them apart when they're massed together in formations or mixed up in a big melee.

Mate you've brought this video out at the right time for me , got a load of models to varnish this weekend so big thanks from me as I've never vanished models before .

Frosting can be caused by spraying in cold conditions and or from too far away which causes the spray to start drying before it hits the model.

Have followed your technique of warming since previous video, never had a problem painting or varnishing since. Thanks a heap.

Another good vid, mate - with some great hints, esp for newcomers. My early frosting errors tended to all be in very high or very low humidity, plus high Summer temperatures or low Winter temperatures. Have avoided these effects by taking can (from even inside temperature) quickly outside to spray under shelter, then bringing models immediately back inside into temperature controlled environment for drying = no frosting. Learned from my mistakes, mostly ...

This was really helpful! Thanks, Luke. This is a step I usually skip, but have finally hit the point of needing to do. (Don't game very much, but am getting more into the hobby)

Great video as always, Luke. So here is my "two cents" worth of technique/advice. I lived in Savannah, GA for twenty years so for those of you not familiar with the climate, it is hot and humid, extremely so at times, a good part of the year. There were many times I had minis I needed to spray (primer, base coat and varnish) but the weather was hot with high humidity which made me concerned due to the belief that would affect the conditions of the spray result. So, here was what I did and would recommend: I have an empty flat box similar to a pizza box which I originally started with. Most of the time you can get a free, clean pizza box from a pizza place if you ask. I now have a slightly deeper box, a three inch box, which works better for larger minis. I line it with paper then arrange the minis I wish to paint almost in formation so as to minimize the gaps between them. Leave some space so you can spray their sides and leave a gap between the minis and the edge of the box for the same reason as mentioned. I then shake the can inside the house similar to what Luke mentioned. When that's done I take everything outside. Once outside, I'd put the box down on the patio, open the lid and spray a very light coat back and forth parallel to one side of the box. I would then move usually clockwise to the next side and repeat a very light spray and then to the next side, repeat and finally to the last side and repeat. If it was hot, cold or humid I would partially close the lid, leaving enough of an opening to allow the inside to breath. If the conditions weren't extreme, I would leave it outside for a bit (five, ten minutes?) then touch the paper around the minis that got hit with the overspray to see if it was dry, not tacky. If it was dry and required another coat, I'd repeat the process. If another coat wasn't required and the minis need to be flipped over, at that time id spray the other side. If the conditions were extreme, after I'd spray the minis I would partially close the lid, bring them inside and stick them in our spare bathroom and turn on the fan. You can have strong vapors with the varnish obviously so I'd also close the door. After that coating had dried, id take it back outside and repeat the process until done. I only had a fogging problem once and managed to get my minis painted as required using this method. I hope this helps others painting their minis.

How to varnish is something I’ve always wondered. Thanks for teaching pal. Easy and absolutely clear. Greetings forma Spain.

Just wanted to say I recently used your method to warm spray cans and so on. It really helped! Thanks a load!

Fantastic video! So good to see how far you have come 😊. From a fellow diabetic/northerner keep up the good work

What is this coat sorcery? Please make a video on what wizard we need to bribe to get magic coats!

Educational and entertaining. Really put a smile on my face and made my day. Thank you!

Thanks dude! Just making a list of paints and varnish etc. for Blackstone Fortress and this was great timing 👍

Really great video, Luke! I follow the same technique as you and I've only had problems frosting when I was using Krylon brand varnish. It's ridiculously hot here in Texas, but typically if I wait for sunset, the temp doesn't seem to affect my varnishing process. Take care my man! ~ Wolfbrother Methos

thank you so much for this video! me and my friend have been trying to fine a nice cheap alternative and this tutorial has really helped ! thank you

Was looking for a video like this! Great job

Wonderful show Bro. I've been using statin polyurethane for the finish on all my minis. I absolutely love it. Very important video you made here. Thanks Luke.😉

I have had this problem in the past. Usually it seems to be worse when it's cool/cold outside and humid. I do not normally go out of my way to warm the cans up but I do keep them indoors. I had a bunch of Dungeon Saga minis get frosty so I took some olive oil (EVOO) and a plastic toothbrush and lightly scrubbed it into them. Then I washed it off with some warm water and dish soap. This turned out pretty good. There's still a couple frosty spots on a couple models but overall they seem fine and I don't think it removed the varnish at all. I did wait a few days before trying this method, though. Also I usually use Krylon - which is a general purpose paint brand in the US - as opposed to GW or army painter or Tamiya or anything like that.

Quickshade varnish dip with a coat of matt varnish spray over the top, usually Windsor & Newton as that dries with a nice satin look.

Once I was able to fix the frosting in a model by re-applying the varnish and left it to dry under a warm lamp. Most of the frost went away! (Now I see that Luke blinks one eye each time, like a Toy Story character, and I can't unsee this.)

Thanks for this. I feel ready to try this.

I fixed some frosted minis with olive oil - I used a q-tip to massage in some olive oil and it took the dull frosting right away, then I wiped off the excess. No, they're not sticky, dust prone, etc. So if you "frost" a mini, you DO NOT have to strip!

Some Northerner you are, putting a coat on to go outside.

Very helpful, keep up the good work

Good tips. Very helpful.

Ive had frosting toward the end of cans. And once it starts it's been unstoppable

6:48 amen brother to using slight satin. Varnish ages and satin will tone down, where true matte will kill any specularity. This is a preference thing but you and I share the same perspective on this one! Great video.

great idea for video. nicely done mate.

Hi Luke, I’m new to this and want to know what brand of varnish you use/recommend. I bought a can of Testors spray lacquer and I’d like to know should l use it or chuck it? I live in Oregon, USA. Thanks!

Thank you man. It helped me.

awesome vid man! helps alot!!

What’s the best spray or varnish for miniatures that have been oil painted? All the videos I watch their using acrylic spray or water based varnish but didn’t think you could apply them on oil due to cracking your oil paints. I would much appreciate some info.

That’s some good hand action

I'm in the American midwest (North Dakota) and my frosting experience was either from glopping too much on, or spraying on warm days with high humidity. 15-ish years ago I switched to using polyurethane varnish sprays and I've not frosted a single mini since. I seldom shake a can more than 15-20 seconds, I've never warmed a can above room temp, and I've walked out into a sub-freezing garage and sprayed with no issues.

I had frosting once on models and that was when I went outside in nice weather in winter temperature was close to 0C in Bristol in humid from nice home temperature and went back in side straight after spraying and it was clearly temperature difference.

thanks man, really good video!!!

Damn Luke, failing in making a failure ;D Keep on teaching this wonderful hobby.

Great video as usual, Luke. It's difficult to tell what's causing the problem because the actual products being used weren't mentioned by the people having the problem. The can in your video looks to be Paint Factory Matt Varnish Clear. I am unfamiliar with this product, but I have an idea of what's going on. I know you mentioned having a problem getting these things to frost over, but I think I know what's happening. First, MOST spray can varnish especially marketed to hobbyists is lacquer. That includes Tamiya, Testors and what have you - and most spray can varnishes from craft stores. Lacquer is a very common clear finish. Probably the biggest down-side is that it yellows over time when exposed to UV light. It's also difficult to sand once fully cured. Traditionally, lacquer is used to finish wood furniture. When a furniture maker builds a desk or something, they usually build it in a shop or a garage and then brush on lacquer when it's all done. When putting thick coats of lacquer effectively outside - while it's raining - lacquer tends to frost pretty easily. This is, of course, because of the extreme humidity. It then needs to be sanded and refinished at the location the frosting occurred. So, I really suspect a lot of these people are doing what we all do - take the stuff out to the back yard and spray it down with a can of Testors. Clearly outside and in the garage offer WORLDS more humidity than inside the home, and as you've demonstrated laying it on thick can really increase your chances of frosting. There are several water based alternatives to lacquers out there from the major hobby paint manufacturers, but most require an airbrush or a paint brush.

Great vid!

You tend to et frosting due to a couple of factors high moisture content in the air, not rain but high humidity and poor ventilation or too thick a coat. with too thick, its often due to the varnish drying in layers if you will. Its like ice in water, some is still fluid and some hard, and the different drying times causes frosting. High moisture tends with low ventilation and can see it when varnish spray particles catch moisture on the way to the item and trap it under the varnish, causing different drying reaction times.

Thanks a bunch Luke your The man!!

Help: how much would you dilute AK ultra matt varnish in an airbrush? Thank you

So I’m new to this hobby. Yesterday evening, I was aghast to find some of the models that I had brushed primed with Vallejo white primer, the paint would just scrape off with my fingernail very easily… This was in contrast to the ones that I had spray, canned primed, with army, paint primer. These models seem to be far more robust, and you have to really work at scraping off the paint. The spray can primer clearly is far more effective. However, there are some models that I’ve painted with the brush and primer that I’m really quite happy with the results. And now I’m slightly panicked, as to how I can in affect seal them and protect them. So now I’m on to carefully pick a varnish that is not too glossy, something more akin to a matte finish, but doesn’t completely kill the metallics...

Great video! I varnished my very first miniature today and followed all the right tips. However, I have a question: is it normal for varnish to dry after just a few minutes?

what is the varnish you used? i have a similar way of thinking in what i need from my varnishes

I've had the opposite problem. I tried W&N Galeria Matt Varnish with the brush and straight outta da pot it dries with a strong milky white cloudiness. I thinned it down 2/1 water to varnish and it's better but still a bit hazy. Is this normal? If I thin it more will it become too weak for it's purpose. Is it a bad batch or is it just super concentrated stuff? I always used Testors Dullcote spray and never had any problems.

Thank you. Actually i am using brush-on matte varnish on resin figures about the size of yours. Do you think one coat of varnish will be fine?

Not painted a mini for over a decade or touched a wargaming table for 30 years - I only visit to catch up on my accent after 30 years away. Off to see Hands off Gretel on Monday! For another dose of Barnsley. Then I got t't bit where tha puts a coat on. Soft lad.

It's very humid here in the southern US. Humidity can cause varnish clouding too. Well, maybe it's the combo of heat and humidity. I just spray in my garage. Never have clouding when I spray inside. Since I don't stay in the garage, i don't worry about ventilation.

Trying to find a vendor with that varnish now because I could really use some that's not quite satin but doesn't highlight all my shoddy painting. Can anyone recommend one in the EU?

I've only ever had it happen once. I varnish several models before and after with no issues. I noticed that I tilted the can too much to the side and i think I had more propellant than paint spray out. It frosted immediately. Maybe it is due to the propellant or how cold the spray became during that discharge.

Where do you buy your matt varnish from?

For me I'd get frosting from: Spraying too far away (esp on warm days) Overspray hanging in the air (un-vented garage, I did use a painter respirator) Really hot days or to close to a heat source (for me it was a infrared heater in a freezing garage) Last 10% of can (probably lacking propellant or dregs the of unshaken) Cans that sat for ages on a shelf/stock room Avoid niche 'hobby' versions was the advice i was given (as above and quality control is poor) and 100% agree with I now buy main brand like krylon with quicker stock turnover. I store my cans upside down to stop dregs from forming Pure matt I used testors and never had a problem, but seems like its very hard to find in the UK now :'( On a side note if you're looking for the daddy of matt black primer check out 'KRYLON Camouflage Paint with Fusion Technology' that stuff bonds so well and great to spray.

I bought some spray varnish from pondshop if it's in stock lol. I spray from a distance and I do a quick short spray works great.

Luke always what I do is apply a layer of Vallejo varnish by brush and that way, not out of a can but a bottle /plastic thingy but then why varnish at all is the next Q someone will ask as models looks better under lightening effects Mat. Least I think so and I've been painting models for some 40 odd years - no wise cracks you!

I don't varnish my minis but have been wondering if I should? I don't play a huge amount usually just like to paint them

I only had frosting happen on one model. I sprayed it outside on a nippy day then brought it immediately into the house to dry. In america we have forced air heating (like you get in the car) so it sucks moisture out the air very quickly. I assume the extreme change in heat and humidity caused the frosting, perhaps because it dried too fast. I now do all my spraying indoors with lots of ventilation and wear a mask and never have any issues.

Luke, where do you buy your spray cans from? I know you said they’re the paint factory brand but do you buy them online or from a high street retailer (which one!) cheers!

i use testors dull coat.. bloody awesome stuff. never had a problem.

Ive only had frosting once so far. But i chalk it up to my fault. Used reapers brush on sealer during a side by side comparison with other brands, and unknowingly mucked it up. I think i used it neat, which isnt a huge deal but on tge model i used it on it had details that it pooled in and i didnt see, eventually causing the majority to frost. Tried recoating and few other tricks to no avail, but luckily was an easy paint so i just stripped and did again. Typically use some variety of rustoleum,krylon, armory miniature sprays followed by a matte. Still use GW ardcoat/lahmian, or reapers brush on occasionally. Im just trying to find a cheap primer i like. Most local modelers suggest some verison of a auto primer or hardware store brand.Provided it doesnt have filling properties.

Thank you , Luke .

Just a little tip I discovered... if you do get a frosted mini I sprayed some WD40 into its lid then took a brush and painted the WD40 over the mini after it dried the frosting was gone.

Killer advice ... I only had it happen once as well and it was my most perfected model I had done (as a noob painter mind you). But the haze that muddied it up just ruined all the details I had done and all I was trying to do was to freaking seal my perfection so nothing could penetrate the paint. I had done this many times before but for some reason the humidity or that set of circumstances, put that awful haze all over my epic paint job. Man I was pissed. I hit it again the next day (because hey why not?) and it got a lot better. Now, it was not as sweet as my original paint job and probably will never be but it did make an improvement. I have never, at this point, been able to replicate that failure though. Oh, and I am wracking my brain still trying to figure out what I did wrong so that it doesn't happen again.

i went away from using rattle can varnish because of the faff involved in avoiding the bad finishes, i use airbrush varnish its just simpler, but after your video i have to wonder if warming the airbrush varnish would make a difference

Only ever had frosting happen with very very old GW branded ard coat too, mine was a little weird as it only frosted on the metallics (turned them dull and grey) was a total pain as I had to re- paint the metallics on that mini

honestly i am trying to get frosting to happen because i got some pieces that need that look. do you have any tips to get it to happen.

I dont seal my minis anymore .. I use to do everything always the same way .. but I messed up a heap of Great minis after spending hours painting them and never did it again . Wouldn't have a clue what happened ?

Wich varnish should i take For my stormcast eternals? The whole Model got golden Armour. Greetings from Germany :)

Can you fix a too heavy spray? Or is it hopeless.

Luv you man

Hey luke, where do you buy said cans?? Awesome video

I live in East Texas and it’s hot and humid 80% of the year. I only rattle can anything when the humidity is in the 40 to 50 range. I know that’s extreme but I get my very best results this way.

Starting out painting miniatures again (been a long time from when I was a kid) can a person use varnish found at a hardware store?

What about frosting when you apply a mat varnish over pigment powders? I had finished an amazing piece of terrain, all covered in rust pigments, and varnished it. Only for it to end up looking like it was covered in snow instead of rust.

I like Gloss. Seems to last longer, and I like the Shiney..... ;)

Thanks mate

Short burst sound all right to me... But here's the thing: I always have to press hard to make my can spray (I use HAGMANS - I've tried others as well but with the same problem). And by doing that I DON'T manage to get nice short burst. Any suggestions? I live in Norway where EVERYTHING cost at least 5 times more than you pay for your stuff... Anyway, great video.. as always! CHEERS!

Lol killed me with that rain scene... :D

Is it neccesary to varnish spray your models?

I have just finished my first miniature after a very long time....25 years in fact haha 😃👊. I want to use satin varnish sir. I have vellejo but no airbrush. Any tips on how to do it properly as hardly any videos on here on the brush on ones? Do I have to thin at all etc etc....any help would be superb man, cheers in advance 👍

Novice question but ... why lay the can down for storage? My car spray cans all need to be stored upside down once used to stop the nozzle blocking. Is this not a problem with hobby cans too?

Hi Luke! I had a problem with my primer coming out "fuzzy". Was this due to similar issues as with the spray varnish? And, can it be resolved the same way? Thanks! Kurt

Ey up, watched this video because sometimes occasionally some of my models will frost, it’s happened only when it’s been cold, dry air, not wet and raining, just straight up cold, once before Ardacon, my 8 harad archers frosted, and funnily enough last night a model frosted. I shook the can for a while, didn’t spray too close, didn’t overspray and it just frosted in a few different areas. Weirdly enough, I rubbed the frosting and it came off to a certain extent, you can’t tell it’s there but if you look closely you can see a pale white coating in the recess where it was, I normally go over my models with Lahmian medium to get rid of the slight shine of GW’s varnish, and this kinda helps with the frost I guess

Old varnish has a higher probability to frost up on you. Always check the date of manufacture when buying any spray paint. Coatings can go bad in the can. This happened to me when I was using GW Dark Angel green spray back in the day. Sprayed the models only to find the paint had gone over and it frosted on the models.

can you tell me what shop you use for paint factory paints i emailed them to ask who they supply but got no response cheers m8

Something that's come up a few times, and I'd REALLY like to know the answer: Does varnishing with gloss first protect your minis MORE than just using matte? I've been glossing and then using matte, but wonder if it's worth it.

When it's cold, wet or humid I, I'll either spray outside and under cover or in my storage room then quickly bring the models back inside and put them in front a heater.

What causes "fuzzing"? I sprayed about 10 models in a batch, same can, same amount of shaking. 1 model fuzzed on HALF the model. One half was fine, the other side, got fuzzed. I have no idea why. Every other model was fine. Any ideas?

Oof. I did this to some minis and it gutted me. Glad to know i wasnt alone and how to make sure i dont do it again.

Sub this man, you rock dude keep it up

It's crazy humid where I live (South Louisiana, USA) and I've only had frosting happen once. I believe that was caused by spraying a near empty can. Who knows?

Vallejo varnish through an airbrush. Gloss first for durability, then matte over that to kill the shine.

Just a question, do you use a glue gun to stick your figures on the baton, ready for varnishing?

I frosted my models one time after using GW varnish ruined a whole unit anyone know a way to fix frosting after it’s occurred

Its yorkshire... course its wet aart. I always got frosting in hot weather when its drying mid spray

The only time i have had trouble is when the can is getting empty and then distance and bursts is even more critical

Is varnish frosting a good way to achieve a frozen effect on models?

The biggest problem with screw ups I ever had was using plastikote matt varnish , just don't even think about it as it reacts with GW paint and any other paint I tried leading to a milky colour and orange peel effect ( I had painted a full 10 man squad of Deathwing Terminators and sprayed them with that stuff and ended up having to throw the lot of them into a tub of brake fluid to get it off.... my language wasn't for the faint hearted that day... )