How To Vent Range through Roof Instead of through Wall 

Thanks for the positive comment--that was genuinely helpful and encouraging both

I applaud your comment 👏 As a construction worker and homeowner I respect you and him. He did what he set out to do. He got it done for sure. Was it perfect? Perfect to whom? I've done projects that didn't turn out perfect but it worked for me. People can be just plain rude and I found your approach refreshing. Let's face it we are after all only human.

Hello, as you a professional, I hope you don’t mind me asking how you feel about elbows, as my new range hood advises against it. Hence why I came to learn how to install a new roof vent. We have moved our stove to a new location in the kitchen by about 7 ft. My husband would like to just use coiled ducting and I think we should go with metal ducting using elbows, but after reading our vent hood manual further, I’m now thinking we need go strait up, single story. With my configuration using the old vent would require - 2 elbows. Vent Model: IKTCH KB01 - 30”. Appreciate you taking the time as well as your very thoughtful & helpful comment to the creator.

@@KristiSage so the rule of thumb with hoods are in a “if you can avoid”. So … (1) ideal world: 6-7” metal duct straight up to roof flashing not exceeding the height of your hood. (2) will work great:6-7” metal duct offset using ‘less than’ 90° elbows to avoid grease settlement in ductwork, by letting duct flow downhill towards kitchen exhaust. (3) still works a 10x3 square to round with 6-7” 90° elbow directly through exterior wall, maybe through soffit (pitched towards exhaust) to wall eyebrow with backdraft damper (10x3 duct can be used aswell if you don’t have the ceiling, wall eyebrow must match duct.) (4) if you have too you have too: 6-7” Rigid Aluminum flexible duct to a metal sleeved collar at your exhaust and roof or wall flashings. Staying to “downhill” rule and avoiding 90°. (Never use FOIL duct, it’s larger more flexible coils allow grease settling and its weaker body will easily be torn by rodents in attic spaces. It’s a nightmare for people later down the road, ironically most hoods have this in the box don’t use it)

Of course if you’ve already got a fire going on in your ceiling, then the least of your concerns is the fire penetrating the duct😂. Just saying.

@@p.aragon8398 stand on that statement in court when your being sued for damages.

@@hawkdaddy64 Actually I probably wouldn’t, since I don’t install range hoods in other peoples homes but yes I can see that happening. I have heard of some builders or installers venting straight into the attic. Ridiculous!

@@p.aragon8398 You can vent through the attic but it must be double walled and insulated with fire resistant materials.

Would you use the galvanized steel pipes from big box stores? I also read somewhere else about the noise and fire hazard. Thanks for sharing

did you used flex duct ? i hope not

I think he did everything right but I dont see why he didn't go through the hole that was already there. He also broke that shingle. He also pinched it a bit for the joist and rafter but I dont think that's a big deal. Can you share what your analysis is because I have to do this. I'm being genuine, thanks

EXACTLY! I kinda imagine 10 months from now that all the grease from the flex duct is going to drip down the hood.

​@@syn8666 M-1901.4 Range hood: Range hoods shall be vented to the outdoors by a single-wall pipe and smooth on the inside as to not catch grease in crevices that can cause fires and constructed of galvanized steel, stainless steel, copper or other material approved by the building official for the use intended. Vents serving range hoods shall not terminate in an attic or crawl space or any area inside the building. Labeled unvented range hoods shall be installed in accordance with the terms of their label.

@@Nicholas-pt3ln This is important, especially when it's time to sell the property. The buyers building inspector is likely to flag any such violations,

And make it less of a fire hazard.

Well well well, someone might be in middle management with a EQ response like that. ha ha ha (you get more bees with honey)

you should always try to locate any ceiling joists first before you make a whole and even better when planning the location of the hood. You could even make a plenum when you can't avoid a beam or joist. As long as it has the same volume it can be a different shape.

I was trying to pinch the flex duct as little as possible to not create any addition noise in the vent

@@SpiritofaHandyman can you attached a wind turbine to the roof end of the venting, and make it a passive, wind powered extractor?

There is a flapper that closes to keep air flow only moving outward

You could run it through the ceiling/floor joists and out through the wall of the house for sure! I chose not to do that with this project because that would have required drilling through brick and block and it was easier to go through the roof for me.

@@DanielRead87 I see. Thanks for the reply. For my case, it is siding. It is easier to let the pipe run through floor joists and out through the wall of the house.

@@DanielRead87 Great idea of going through the roof. Using the wall can cause mold to build in your artic through the cool are intake when that moist cooking air sucks back into the artic. That old house has a great example of it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PqrZWd_CQIE.html&ab_channel=ThisOldHouse

What's best way to do that

@@CalebsCars there are insulation sleeves available for every size of duct. Just buy and install over the duct.

@@Andrico77 sounds easy enough. Thanks!

there is no need. because usually inside of the duct is hotter and only condensation occurs inside of the pipe. If you use the vent everyday, no issue.

Also, when you go to sell your home, the home inspector is going to spot this right away and you'll end up redoing install anyway... Good Luck. Nice video and I like the BBshop quartet

You would have to run it through a joist bay

I couldn't get the metal ductwork to fit around the ceiling joist, but that would have been ideal

@@SpiritofaHandyman I see, thanks.

Flex line does not meet code. It can trap oil in the fumes and become a fire hazard. That's why the kit didn't have flex line.

Could do semi-rigid but thats the cheapest you can go!

It definitely wasn't air tight where it sealed to the final hookup. If I could do it again, I would made the connection for the flex pipe above the roof and then pushed the box vent down into place, instead of trying to tape the connection in that tight corner of the attic

At least he was trying .... we will be awaiting your video.

@@YakMotley Lol, trying doesnt cut it when it comes to long term reliability and selling a quality home that wont shaft the next owner with repair bills. Sorry its not nice to say, but lets recommend doing it right EVERYTIME.

Damn bro chill, everyone’s said the same thing about the flex vent, if I were him I’d have made a video showing mistake and fixing it.. hopefully he has learned and fixed it..

@@311mdub Chill? I’m chill af. Just asking a question. Don’t be so sensitive. Peace.

Hey! How would you recommend to do this (through the attic) I do live in Canada and the attic gets really cold. How would you recommend doing this to avoid the condensation problems ?

Why is that a no no?

@@johnerikangladalagunes1390 it is not within code in most locales - the ridges catch grease and present problems with fire and cleaning issues

@@mj8495 Not to mention that rats will go right through that.

I'm thinking of doing this one for my home. Instead of flex pipe what do I use? Thanks

Looks fine to me. There would be a shroud to cover the flex pipe so you will not see it or the electrical box. Roof vent looks fine to me. Lwts remember this is to move smoke or odors out of the house. This is not HVAC. This job looks pretty good. He should have installed the shroud to show the finished job. Nice job.

@@Craig5150EVH LOL. I'm sure you'd be happy to have this on your own home.

@@Craig5150EVH You are either clueless about this or you are someone who charges people to do horrible work like this.

@@victorpisauro9051 Its ok that you disagree. You are clueless so it makes sense.

@@Craig5150EVH Yes I was right. You are a rip-off handyman who overcharges for bad work. If you think this is good work you prove that you know nothing about it. Sad little man. Lol!