In this video I go through and tare out the bottom part of a shed that has rotten through due to rain water and flooding. I go back over with new OSB and waterproof the bottom 18". Please let me know what you think of this video!
I had several concerns about the final product but K&M was likely paid to just repair the damage not correct the cause. If that's that case it was a good effort. I've seen lots of these sheds original build on a slab. A real fix would have been to add 6 inch wide x 6 inch tall concrete sleeper/footing and place the new treated sill plate on top. For the size of this job that would only be a couple of sacks of ready mix using a wheelbarrow (and a few dowels). Then the TREATED plywood ending at least 3-4 inches above the concrete slab ending in a 1" x 2" notch in the concrete sleeper thus keeping all wood at least 3-4 inches above the slab. Lot of termites in LA so having that wood nearly touching the slab is like putting out desert for the critters.
I'm glad i didnt have to scroll far to find a comment that makes as much sense as this one did, im glad i found this video because i have a space between two weather-facing brick walls and i was trying to find a solution to framing a wall with a window, between them, your comment has given me some great insight into this.
Yes, the original problem was obvious. It lasted as long as it could, Lol. With the fix it will last a little bit longer. I suggest the owner start saving for the next repair job, oh well.
Still put untreated osb flush to the concrete slab. Will still wick moisture and rot just as fast. Could have gotten some zip sheathing and flashed the underside and the bottom 6" and never had an issue again
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I have been doing so much research trying to figure out how to go about doing this exact fix for the last 2 years and coming up short every time. This video popped up on recommendations tonight and was seriously a God send!!! Exactly what I needed!!! I feel confident going into my project! Thank you!
Thought it was great - live on farm in very rainy North Yorkshire Dales U.K. and you gave me ideas - many thanks to you - more shed builds/re builds please
All I see here is a temporary fix to an ongoing problem because the building was not built right in the first place. Cannot have all that concrete pad on the outside walls as it will hold water no matter what you do. Either build the pad to the exact size of the shed and allow the siding to cover the bottom plate or use blocks as a starter. And what is with the studs? The least you could have done was put filler 2x4 under the area you cut out. I would have suggested to the client that they cut off the excess concrete on the outside walls to prevent this from happening in the very near future. All the caulking in the world won't stop water on OSB at ground level and your coating only covers the outside of the board, what about the bottom of the board where the water will penetrate with all that concrete as a water bowl.
Hi - I have the same type of rot on my shed, although my concrete pad is the same size as my shed. Any advice on what I can do to prevent further rot when I replace the lower portions of plywood (luckily my studs haven't rotted yet)
I have the same issue with a 35+ year old very large shed, wood rot around entire perimeter. Shed was built on top of large concrete pad. The concrete pad has deteriorated on one side in particular. Can the shed be saved, the bones seem good. Clearly there are 2 major issues, needs a door and new threshold. Thought of fixing bottom & concrete and converting it to a greenhouse. Any thoughts or insights? Any response would help 😊
Why would you put the foundation wider than the footprint of the shed? This just lets the runoff puddle on the bottom framing & siding. Also I put generous overhangs on my sheds to get water away from base and window trims where water creeps in from rains. Doing that will allow your building to last for many years to come.
I live in Sheltered Housing and have to use a mobility scooter, the scooter sheds that were installed here have no damp course, and my scooter began to acquire mould, I had to remove t and bring it inside. I have sent this video to our housing manager and I hope it will find its way to the repairs team and they can fix the problem. Thanks very much from dear old Blighty.
That's what we are doing five yrs ago hit bad by hurricane Irma. Just now doing the reroof of the rotted shed that sat for five years whilst we did hurricane clean up. It was baaad. For this chick once you have experienced a fully rotted shed you really want to study up on all things waterproofing! Everything sealed, especially since we live in Southwest Florida. Luckily most of the shed had cement blocks for a foundation underneath the beam for the wall so we were really good there and only a couple of the posts had brought it but we had to move the shed 2 ft further away from the house so that we could work on the house and the gutters etc the gutters are what caused all the rotting I think but this shed is going to be a lot more waterproof and I already have two giant rolls of weather guard that I'm going to use on the roof and possibly house wrap on the sides before I put on the final siding layer I'm excited about it it's been a long time coming that's why I'm watching your video
He hardly nailed it, guarantee that in 10 or 15 years he will have the same problem again. He cut a lot of corners, such as not totally removing the old studs, removing the window and wrapping his Tyvek, and most importantly lack of a gasket that sits between the concrete and bottom plate, which would have greatly improved its longevity. If he really thinks a bit of caulk along the bottom and painting the exterior 2 feet up will prevent water damage, he's sadly mistaken, water always will find a way in. Personally I would have used a rubber gasket under my bottom plate, the bottom plate would have been a trex 2x4 which is basically a hardend plastic 2x4 that can never rot, this would have guaranteed that moisture and water can't wisk its way up into the remaining wood work. Keep the sheeting about 5/8 of an inch off the concrete, wrap my Tyvek around the window opening, being sure to tape my windows nailing phalange prior to reinstalling the siding.
Your explanation is very thorough and points out deficiencies in this guy’s work to a layperson like myself. Your comments will certainly be taken into consideration if I ever find someone who can repair my own shed. Thank you!!!!
@@deenajones9019 Glad it helped, I haven't done reinventions in years, mainly because too many people whom are undercutting and making it near impossible for an honest man to make a living. There are reasons my costs are higher then the next guy whom does not carry insurance, pay compensation, taxes and many other bills that go along with the business. Many out there don't have these expenses and can easily undercut others, but lack the knowledge or simply just don't care to do the job right. Best of luck with your repair.
They also didn’t flash the window properly. I would have run a butyl flashing tape along the base and then gone at least 9” up the walls with flashing tape. I would also have installed a metal L-flashing along the base behind the tyvek.
well this video was exactly what i didn't want to see but needed for a reality check.. I'm next door in MS and just found the 2x's along my shops side window both rotted when i went to stake on some floating shelves.. cleared the wall of junk along the floor and found my OSB to also be rotted in some areas.. looks like my weekend will be fun..
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you. And the video was well done. No fluff, just straight to the point. Well, there was a little bit of fluff, but it was absolutely necessary to see you sharing in my experience of going through terrible wood at Home Depot and Lowe’s and having to toss it aside. Haha!
I think he was supposed to put a thin board across as a spacer / before he installed the sidings. That way there is an airgap if water to get behind the siding and the bld. paper. Because theres no spacer, it gets trapped there. I could be wrong.
@@kendalgee5808 I don't know if that's necessary with the roof overhang and the interlocking siding panels. Looks like that rot came from lack of drainage. I wouldn't mind someone confirming.
Some opportunities for the next install. First understand where the water is coming from and why the failure. To me, the water is coming in around the window and splash back coming up vertical from concrete and yard. It is coming upward between the siding pieces. Use marine grade plywood for the 1st 24". Use stainless nails in the Hilti. Reinstall the window with proper sealing methods. Consider putting a drainage mat over the Tyvek. I live in SC on the coast and have the same type weather. Never underestimate the damage of water that goes up hill, such as splash back and wind driven.
No barrier in between concrete and bottom plate, still direct connecting with concrete probly more I just skipped most of it,base supposed to be same size is the building so water can run down that's the biggest problem not related to man
Yeah. Was wondering why they didn't add barrier there when between concrete and wood. And I would maybe have even layer of cinder blocks between so that the wood would start bit higher. They added water proofing outside but if nothing else moisture gets up to the wood from concrete without barrier there.
Some z flashing under the plywood would of been smart. And you should remove and cut the protruding concrete completely off. You fixed the rott but did not address what caused it to begin with. In five years they will have the same problem again
I was thinking the same thing. He put it back the same way it was, which pretty much ensures that the same thing will happen. Those little cuts in the concrete are not going to drain well enough to keep the sill dry. I would have replaced everything that rotted with pressure treated wood.
Ended up here because we just built a diy shed and learned a lot, as well as we're good, as we built ours to have a lip so water can escape into the ground but boy thats a lot of work that should have been considered before all that rot happened. Kind of scary to think that's what was holding up the roof thou.
I like to double that bottom plate then put a piece of L shaped flashing on then use hardy for anything with ground contact. Then you have a 30 year solution.
Close example of what I would try. I am still trying to figure out the L shaped flashing. My guess is to put a heavy gauge flashing coming down a few inches from the inside and then under the doubled up two X and up the outside a few inches. With the light duty flashing coming down the outside about 4 or five inches and over the HD flashing mentioned earlier. Plenty of right type of caulking underneath all flashing. I also live in LA. and it rains/floods on a regular basis.
Doggy did a terrible job of supervising. He was supposed to sniff around as you worked. He did lay there for a while and do a couple of dirt back scratching like he was supposed to. But, I felt that he was pleased overall
This is pretty piss poor method of stopping water intrusion and will rot again in similar manner. I just did a similar shed inset around the bottom on a slab, did a sill flashing or “Z flash” that came up min 2in in trim coil, then house wrapped overtop so wall drainage goes overtop as well. Caulk and paint will fail if those are your primary methods alone for stopping water from coming back in…..gotta imagine after 9 months you’ve probably already had warranty calls on this one..
Just pour a proper slab and overhang the building from the get-go and none of this nonsense happens. This is just a temporary fix, it will fail too, as the root of the problem was not addressed.
Finally found the vid that was tackling I'm going to have to tackle. Except everytime they showed the work being done it was fast forwarded with music. Thats when I needed to hear someone say," we are doing this with this kind of wood or tool or whatever for this reason. Some of us are greener than others but have nowhere to go for help.
I'm fixing a similar problem only that it's a dwelling now when once it was a carriage house. The grade is too high or the slab is too low. My concrete guy is going to lower the cement by inches. I'm flashing the bottom plate and using hardie plank. Also I'm going use redguard on the bottom course because the rot just made so much work
Simplest trick would have been to put some waterproof foil or or whatever under the wood before putting it on the concrete and then wrapping that foil upward. Best solution is to put a row or 2 or 3 of bricks down first and start framing on top of that or those long concrete bands used for making raised flower beds
I enjoyed the video with the time lapse. Was fun watching the dog. Would have preferred more of an explanation as to what was being done and why it was being done. This did provide me with more insight into the process than I had before. An example of more explanation: When you were looking at the lumber in home depot. What exactly were you looking for? Why were you discarding so many pieces? Also when you were putting up the temporary supports how did you determine the proper sizes needed and how exactly do you shift the burden off of the current lumber holding up the weight. How do you know not to go too tall? Thanks again for your video and I also appreciate the comments below the video even if some are critical they may prove valuable and helpful for those like myself who are seeking to learn from those like yourself and selves who are more knowledgeable.
Flashing at the sill and treated plywood wall sheathing down there, too, adds more longevity to the structure. I had the same problem with a 40 year old building. Water, bugs, mice, mold, rott, all gone, forever.
What if you need to replace the concrete under the sill and the rest of the garage? In phases? Garage floor then temp wall then outer foundation and then outer wall?
Why not paint the bottom framing with the water proofing paint? (Including the bottom of the plate before putting it down.) Also, why not block below the original studs? It would have made for a much stronger structure in the end. You kept saying you were replacing the studs, but all you did was sister up to the old ones, you only replaced the bottom plate and skirt OSB for the most part. Also, unless you tucked the "tyvek" under the bottom of the window's bottom tab, you just gave water a way in at the bottom of the window. All in all, a functional repair, for the short haul, but it could have been better. You could have cut the concrete pad off even with the building, and/or put gutters and down spouts on. If the area floods like you said in the video, the little drains you cut in the concrete, in the video, won't do much now will they?
Exactly what i was thinking. Just pre paint the whole thing heavily, and try your best to encapsulate that pourous board. That chip board is like a sponge with water.
I also am from Louisian and have the same damn thing happening to my house, I've searched for hours to find this info. I have been contemplating using aqua defense on my new rebuild and now I am sold.
This is exactly what I need to do. I have a shed/pump house that has rotted OSB in the lower 18” of at least one wall. I am in process of removing that lovely vinyl siding so I can cut out the bad OSB. Can you tell me what you used for your aquatic membrane or seal? Also would it be wise to put something on the bottom edge of the OSB to prevent it from wicking up all that moisture in the future? Thanks and all the best from north Texas.
This is a great resource for people that need to fix things and don't know where to start. However, there's not really any prevention here. This shouldn't be happening. Water is getting in and nothing was really done to keep that from happening. Also nothing was done to really seal that bottom plate. Others on here have pointed out some better options.
Hello, I have a shed just like it. My yard holds water more now due to all the hurricanes in Louisiana. We had the shed done, the contractor raised it up 4 inches on blocks. Now after a really heavy rain, I noticed water coming in towards the back of the flooring in the shed…..😮. What can we do to water proof it? Evidently the contractor didn’t think of that.
The issue here was how it was originally built. A little one or 2 foot block wall on top of the pad would've kept the wood high and dry but they did a nice job waterproofing and repairing.
One point: If the baseplate is rotten from the bottom up, this surely is due to rising damp from the concrete base. Why didn’t you lay a DPM strip before putting down the baseplate? This would have stopped it from happening again. 💂♂️🇬🇧
i know this is going to be a tough question, but looking for a best guess, if that's ok. I am curious to know what kind of price this would be, if you can give it as labor and materials or separately ? I have a sill plate that is about 12 inches up but could be 24 feet long. It's on pour cement foundation with crawlspace. Of course this is a home and not a shed but the work would be equal. Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
Thank You for making this video. I have some sheds that need a makeover and didn't know the first thing about any of this. No one wants small repair jobs apparently. I am becoming a pretty good handyman for a girl! The Bible says knowledge is as precious as pure gold and that people perish from the lack of it. At least my sheds won't perish now!
Why would you install the OSB down touching the concrete as before? Makes no sense. No matter how much water proofing layers you roll on, water will still penetrate and destroy the OSB. It is also making contact with the foundation PT which transfers moisture to the studs and OSB. I would of used plastics between studs and OSB two feet from concrete, then leave a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch gap between concrete foundation and OSB to avoid any exterior ground rain water contact. Install weep screed, then Tyvek. You guys look pretty amateur. How do you keep your licenses…if you actually have one? Unless inspectors in your area are amateurs as well.
The bottom of my 1928 detached garage (1 car) looks like that all around. I moved in last year and I’m going to have to get estimates soon. I’m worried about how much it’s going to cost.
Have you ever used liquid flashing on the sill plate? Builders I know swear by it. It not only stops water but insects as well. If applied correctly it stops water from leeching up the OSB
@@kmremodeling6923 okay good to hear! I’m thinking about doing this for a 3D printed barracks. Theres no waterproofing membrane on the wall surface and the slab is level.
Cement is porous so treat it the same way you'd treat a foundation wall for a house. Waterproof ON TOP of the cement so moisture doesn't wick up into the sole plate. And with that much water present, I'd also wrap 3 sides (bottom and sides) of the sole plate leaving the top open so any moisture will evaporate.
Probably need to grind down the edges of the slab to let the water to flow away. Grade the concrete. 3:56 Also, need to apply some sill sealer foam to the underside of the bottom plate to prevent wet concrete wicking moisture into the wood.
The siding and OSB on my shed is a good 4-6 inches from the ground and yet I get the same issue. The problem isn't the face of OSB gets wet, it's that rain water runs off the siding, wraps around the bottom and wicks up through the edge of the OSB. Painting the faces of the OSB does nothing to prevent that. A solution would seem to be painting the entire repair strip especially the bottom edge.
I would have stacked 2-3 pressure treated for the bottom plate with silicone between them. Would have put regular plywood for the sheet and bottom, holds up better. I would have put aluminum flashing and back and bottom sealed it.
Thanks for giving this demonstration on how to repair and help with this issue. I have a couple out buildings with this issue. I should be able to repair myself now. New sub here.
Since you had to remove sill and cut studs, a 6 inch concrete curb could have been poured for wall to sit on. That is how sheds and shops should be built. Great job though.
