That class 25 looks brilliant, like a diesel in service but not neglected would have looked. I would possibly add a little every day grime to the roof but that's all. Another cracking tutorial tuesday, thank you both.
Just found your site and like the work you do . I am a senior and have been into steam for about 13 years . Still working on a layout but keep changing the plan , so not a lot of progress . Much of my stuff is American . Chris J
Never tried to do any weathering, in part because I like the prestine clean look, but also don't have airbrush skills. You made it look very straightforward using a brush and I may now consider giving it a go on something I am not too fussed about. So thank you.
Looks great what you've done there! A few additional things I would say, however, are to make up a wash to highlight other details like the doors and roof panels; do little bits of detail painting that weren't done in the factory; and small bits of chipping around the doors and other areas of high use.
Very nice. Good easy technique. I like David Hyde’s weathering demo which turns his Loco from looking like a piece of plastic to looking like a very heavy lump of metal!
I weathered a few bits of rolling stock many moons ago. From memory i used heavily watered-down watercolour paint to brush a film of crud onto the bogies and across the body.
Nice video with some excellent tips. :-) As an added suggestion, when you paint the grills or bogies, wipe away some of the paint from the top to highlight the mouldings for a less dirty effect. Also it helps if you have some photos of the prototype at hand to guide you what the real things look like.
Hi Fellas Lovely little technique that I'm using in conjunction with a few others on some 00 and 009 wagons. Hey, may even use it on the BMR Tram I do believe the Hornby Blue is better for a little weathering Cheers Oliver
That looks great i have one of those Engines thats being a right pain,i think it needs a new motor,im going to try that method on it :) thanks for sharing another great tip.
Have thought on this subject and considered just how far to go and the right. You I feel is enough. Like the method too. Do you both thought on track weathering on the rails. Another outstanding video thanks
I like the look of weathered track, but it's mind nummingly boring and time consuming to do and always seems to need a lot of cleaning to get reliable running so it's not something I would consider
Very nicely done, Mike! I like weathering that's not overdone, it's more realistic in my opinion. Just one question: This doesn't mean I'm not allowed to use my airbrush anymore, does it? Santa Claus just brought me a new one a couple of weeks ago......... Keep up the great work!
(Nice video, sorry if this comment is a bit of topic) Well you got that attachment made quickly! A large letter arrived today , I was a bit confused because I though the kit would take like a month to arrive but i was wrong . You’ve done a very good job of it can’t wait to get it fitted together- might record a little video on it. Regards - Harry
Hi Harry. Yep got the attachment designed straight away. We advise up to 28 day delivery due to high demand but usually it only takes less than a couple of weeks. Glad to hear you liked the kit. It would be great if you made a video on it, if you do, send us the link. Also, It would be great if you could leave us a review on our website: www.budgetmodelrailways.co.uk/reviews.html
You can make your own weathering powders. Buy some cheap artists pastels, the chalkier the better (High St discount stores, etc), and rub a flat metal edge along one corner until they turn to powder. Mix the colours you prefer, dampen brush until almost dry and work slowly into bogies, grills, doors and ridges. If you've overdone things just wipe it off. Remember stains run downwards with gravity, so repeated long down strokes better than scrubbed in look.
I'm not sure how I feel about this technique. I totally get that an airbrush isn't the cheapest way, but I do think that there are better ways to weather locos on a budget. Using pastels with a little bit of matt cote, can create amazing results as an alternative to weathering powders. Also, I think a coat of clear varnish is a must over any weathering. The effect you have isn't a bad start, but I think you can add a lot more to it without spending too much more.
St Michael's Hill .Yes, I only weather by dry brushing and then always apply a coat of Winsor and Newton Matt acrylic varnish. This also has the added benefit of flattening down any in brushed plastic and tones that in with the weathered areas.
nice work :D .. yess locos are usually very clean.. unlike my ww2 tanks which are a muddy mess.. much more work with drybrushing, pigments and mudd as on the locos.. uh btw .. i started my n gauge layout 2x3" :) .. today i bought the track and got a nice loco from the 1940s for 40€ which is a bargain for a nice 2. hand loco in austria :) ..
@@BudgetModelRailways i build maily in1:,76 scalefor wargaming its so mich fun to explore the history of different tanks and armies :) i plan my n scale also layout with a ww2 theme in mind :)
I spent 40 odd years interested in the history of tanks, esp post WWII , one of the reasons it was nice to take up model railways five years ago was learning something new from scratch
@@BudgetModelRailways yes.. One of my reasons is so i can lvl up my skills in terrain and house building and building from scratch.. I wanted something that can actually do something xD the more tanks and dioramas i build, the more space i need unless i sell my babies.. But i would never... Sell under 1 million xD.. And with the model railway i can combime every corner.. It moves, i can build alot of scenery and i can make it modular like in table top wargaming.. So i can change the look and scenery as i want but it will look like its a fixed and glued scenery
love your channel . thanks for sharing ! have you tried pound shop make up the dusty grays and purple look like a clown on women but i think they make nice dirt on stock and for a 1$ or 2 it fits your ethos .
If you let the black in the grilles become almost dry and then go over it gently with a tissue dipped in thinner you can highlight the grill. My first move is always to blacken those very obvious bright wheels with blackening salts. These actually stain the wheels and don't effect their conductivity. Looking at diesels and coaches on the Bodmin and Wenford Railway, everything below the footboards is brown. Airbrush not needed. Steam engines stay relatively clean because thay are regularly steam cleaned.
Dave Day I sometimes dry brush grills with gunmetal, although not necessarily prototypical it seems to fool the eye into believing they're metal grills...if that makes sense.
It make sense. The eyes see what they want to see. If you go here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OhhLx0YlE20.html the grills are blue. Best seen at 2:28.
I have an idea, get wd40, spray it on the underside of the body, chassis and bogies (remove the wheels and motor first). Then get some fine dirt and sprinkle some of it over the locomotive. If I'm correct, the wd40 will make the dirt stick to it which would make the loco look quite a bit dirty
US locos use knuckle couplings that are a solid piece that can't move so rolling stock can't concertina. UK stock used chain couplings that allowed movement so buffers are needed to stop the rolling stock crunching into each other, a bit like fenders on a car.
Now that I've watched it again I think the affect isn't as good as some affects on stuff done with an airbrush but ok for the money. In my opinion some of your other videos are better but that's my opinion.
