This is LITERALLY THE BEST HANDS DOWN explanation I've ever seen! My teachers don't even describe this and I've been wanting DEEP explanation not just simple. They never told me about the prepping part it was all computer and I did read it but never experienced it first hand and seeing this I'm saving it so I know in future tests what to so because like I said he breaks it down to an absolute T. THANK YOU!
This was great i didn't go to welding school i just bought a welder an started welding. Ive been practicing stacking beads for a while now. I'm going build a welding tree out of unistrut and try this 2G open root
Thank you sir for the instruction very good demonstration sir i'am a beginer welder in smaw. I wish you can more create video like 1g to 4g in metal plate. And 1g to 6g in pipe. More power to you sir and god bless
Are you in welding school? I just recently figured out how to do the E6010 root pass. I prefer a 1/8” gap and land and run the 1/8” E6010 on 85 amps. It requires very little manipulation.
@@patriotskingnation8084 Don't stop the grinder in the middle. It take very little pressure to grind, so let the tool do the work, and move all the way down the plate. Good luck!
Awesome video buddy 💯 thank u so much for this the only critique i can give is ur tie ins their a little choppy bc wen u restarted u restarted right where u stopped instead of starting ahead a little bit and going back to trace in the crater
I have a good tip for 2g , when going along the metal on stringer beads make sure to press the weld upward cause it comes down with gravity , so where you want your weld to be , keep ur like 2 cm over
Are you opting for 3/32 on your fill pass due to the u shape manipulation? Ive been using 1/8 for the most part but i assume it may build up to much with rod manipulation.
Hey Dom. Thank you to you and all you guys there for putting in the time and effort to make these videos. I've been following you guys for a while now and realy enjoy your videos. Really helpful, some really good stuff, thanks! So, I have a question for you. You said that you like to start your route weld on the top plate. I don't want to sound like some kind of know it all. I'm not! I had a 3G coding, almost 30 years ago and try to use logical reasoning as much as possible. If you look at Time code 19:26 on the video play back, it shows a lack of fusion and trapped inclusion. Would I be correct in saying that there was no moulten metal on the bottom plate, for the top plate to tie into and as the moulten melal on the top plate touched the colder metal on the bottom plate it got cold shock and shrunk, causing lack of fusion and perosity / trapped inclusion? Would starting on the bottom plate have solved this problem? I know they don't use the ends of the test plates, but if I was welding pipe and it was a test piece, it would make a big difference, as some examiners don't allow you a grinder. The reason I am asking is because, I am a Saturation Diver and I am seriously considering going back to welding and completing all the tickets all the way to 6G. Please dont feel that I am being disrespectful in any way? You didn't mention any thing about this and continued to weld over it. That is why I am asking.
Can y'all show a ceramic tape 2g and 3g. Which alot of shipyards require in Mississippi.. Actually philly shipyard wants an 18" plate which makes you stop and start on root to show a good time in. Thank you Dual shield flux core .052 wire
So for 3/32 gap and a 3/32 or even 1/8th landing using a 1/8th 6010 electrode my amperage should be around 75? What would be the heat range for this set up. Thanks!
If you have a 3/32" gap and 3/32" land or a 1/8" gap and 1/8" land then you can run anywhere between 75-85 amps for the root pass using a Lincoln Electric 1/8" E6010 5P+ rod. When you run it at 75 amps, you will have to go a little slower because remember "amps equals heat." You will have to go a little bit slower because you won't fully penetrate the gap onto the back side if you go too fast. I personally like to put a 1/8" gap and 1/8" land on my 3/8" plate with 37.5 degrees of bevel. I run my amperage at 85 amps and I make sure to keep the rod pushed into the front half of the keyhole. You should feel light pressure as you keep the rod pushed up inside the keyhole where it brushes/nudges against the front rim of the keyhole. You shouldn't have to manipulate the rod very much. Many people think you have to really whip the rod around, which ends up making a mess. All you do is keep the tip of the burning rod pushed into the front half of the keyhole and gradually nudge the gap edges (front/leading rim of the keyhole) and it will melt away, causing your keyhole to extend forward some. However, the metal you are melting from the rod tip will also trickle into the back half of the keyhole and fill it in as you continue nudging forward with the tip of the rod. So basically the keyhole will essentially follow the tip of the rod if you are keeping it up in there. You can nudge forward with tiny little cursive e movements (tight little tiny circles), but it's very small, which is why I keep saying "nudge". The key to the root pass is keep the rod pushed up into the keyhole at the front or leading edge of the keyhole. If you don't see a small keyhole then you are not penetrating through to the back side, so you must always see a keyhole throughout until the end. Keep the rod pointed up slightly toward the top root land (little asterisk here in my depiction) throughout the root pass and make small little wiggles/nudges forward. Make sure you see the keyhole stay centered along the length of the gap. You will see the back side of the keyhole fill in on it's on if you have your amperage set right at about 80-85 amps (|(|(|(|(|(|(|(|(|(|( *)===================== (weld example here is a root pass from left to right)
Go on weld tube. I’m assuming you want pipeline is usually downhill welding easier to learn but have to be quicker in my opinion since is all about speed
In the PPE talk you do not mention nor use the use of a face mask (and you have a beard which would prevent a good seal). You get a lot of airborne fine dust especially using the flapper wheel. You probably have some LEV in the booth though to help. Other wise a first class instructive video. It is worth mentioning the change in sound when you are getting good root penetration to when the gap may close and you start to lose it.
you mean you're going to tach me what all this means? The terminology and the welder settings, and why 6010 and 7018, what that means and the reasons? I hope so. At this point right now. It might as well be Martian. Because watching this before I start to maybe learn something. I hope ya'll can teach a ole pro fisherman a new skill!
