Man, you just saved me a fortune. the technician mixed the wires on purpose after I declined to spend $880 plus tax to replace the motor. i followed your instructions after I bought a new motor for $140 and it's working like new. THANK YOU... THANK YOU.. THANK YOU..
@@northamericahvacvideos We are so very grateful to you. We searched through several videos but most were vague or simply uninformative. Yours was spot on!! Thanks again.
Thank you so much for this video! It was exactly what we needed to know. Previous owners put a 4 wire one on the unit and thanks to your video we were able to get the original 3 wire back on! Cool house and happy family!! About 20 minutes worth of work. Excellent video!
Thanks for the video. The bad fan motor in my unit was wired to a plug. The fan motor i replaced was still running but had a bad bearing and was very annoying being just outside my bedroom window. I just matched wires to plug and used existing plug. The plug had slots for all wires including the ground wire. I did replace capacitor with new one. I was a little nervous since wires were different color on new fan. After studying a few minutes I figured out which wires to match up. Saved myself several hundred $$$$$ doing myself instead of HVAC Service guys, and a QUIET fan motor now!
Thanks. This was probably the fourth or fifth video I watched after going to a few websites also, to get me over the hump in installing my new four wire motor where there was a three wire motor with a purple wire instead of a red wire. Very simple explanation and explaining about the two different capacitors also was crucial.
thank you! I wasn't thinking ahead when I was scrapping my old unit with plans to use the fan as a shop fan, so I paid no attention to how it was wired. this helped me greatly in properly wiring the capacitor!
Thank you so much. I had taken top off (fan) and cleaned inside and then cleaned loose dirt and then sprayed down coils with mild detergent solution and rinsed well. I had a struggle with the fan assembly, trying to prop it up against the wall. Eventually it slid enough to pull the purple and brown/orange cable off and I had no idea where to put them. this explained each of the wires on the capacitor perfectly, including the red wire already there. I tried to look at the fan motor diagram, but it was so faded I couldn't make out the colors clearly. I knew black on opposite of red below and then orange on the fan and purple on the C and after bolting it all back together, turned on AC and perfect, no hum and its blowing right direction. Whew.
@@northamericahvacvideos Hello ! I like to recycle and make new things from old parts. After 12 years my daikin Rxh35Cavmb died.Compressor got hole in it,but everything else works.(problem is i cant find any info or wireing diagrams ) I would like to make a welding fume extractor out of condenser fan ,but i dont know capacitor values(is there like most common value like in washing machine motors 15uF that works on 90% of motors?).How would you connect it to run by simply plugging it in the wall socket? Can i use regular capacitor instead double for it since i dont have compressor connected? My second question is about a internal fan motor that spins that cylindrical fan(looks like nice centrifugal blower if i do some plywood housing),it has 6 wires ,how do you connect it to different speeds? I know these must be strange questions ,but im big on not throwing things that work.
Finally! This was the video that actually solved my problem! Thank you! I even took pictures so i would know, but apparently the previous wiring wasn't right?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and insight. Straight forward and easy to understand. I was going to tackle it anyway, but this gave me the confidence I needed.
So easy , thank you for the easy explanation that can make anyone a pro..not really but helpful video that I followed and did a great job..keep up bud …
Hello, when I connected the BROWN wire to FAN terminal and YELLOW to C, the fan was blowing inside. I had to wire YELLOW to FAN and BROWN to C. Also, the fan that was originally installed had BROWN, BLUE, and BLACK wires. That was rotating correctly.
The fan I replaced was a 3 wire one (brown, purple and black) with only a 5mfd cap. The brown went to one terminal. The purple went to the other terminal with a blue wire that went somewhere else. The black went to one of the legs on the contactor.
No, you don’t have to have a dual capacitor. Single cap will work just fine, with a jumper wire. Also, you should check the amp draw of the new motor. It should be about 75% of the name plate rating.
Thank you for the video. I did not catch what goes on the herm terminal? There is a blue and yellow wire that is coming from the refrigerant I believe a big black thing is that what goes on the Herm? Just to make sure I understand the black wire goes to the contactor box one of the yellow wires goes to the C to fan , another yellow wire goes to the C from contractor box. I still have aNother yellow and blue wire that I don’t know what to do with. They are coming from the refrigerant it looks like. Thank you
Is it necessary to cut the motor shaft's excess length? Some say yes to prevent premature bearing wear, but if it's not necessary I'd rather not go through the trouble of cutting it.
If you have room for the full length of the shaft inside your air conditioner then you do not have to cut it. Will it affect life span- perhaps someone could argue that is does in theory, but in the real world, I doubt anyone could demonstrate that, and have never heard any techs with that concern. If the motor couldn't handle it, the manufacturer's wouldn't make the shaft that long. Good luck!
Mine came with 2 wires on the contactor and 1 on the cap . When I wied it like this it started melting the c terminal on the cap and had to use a hard start to get the compressor to kick on so I had to keep it on the contactor to stop this problem , yes it's a 14yr Goodman
Why do you need a three prong capacitor if only two of them are being used? Please respond quickly. I need to replace my capacitor and already have a 2 prong of the same microfarad
Hello, originally I have a bad 3-wire motor, I just would like to know how to wire when I replace it with a 4-wire motor. Can I use the existing capacitor if the new motor has same specs than the old 3-wire?
Thank you but it seems many of the replacement motors have five wires instead of just three. What am I supposed to do with the other two wires? I see that there is a wiring schematic but it doesn't really help me. I have an Emerson model K55HXJKL-2918
What if you were using this as a ventilation fan in a garage? The fan motor I have is a GE A340 S. It has an orange, black and a blue wire. The diagram shows the capacitor connected between the blue and orange wires. Could you wire the orange and black wires directly to each 115 V connectors from a 230V 20 amp recepticile without using a start capacitor? Instead of using the start capacitor, just spin the fan by hand prior to plugging it up. Or spin the fan when it starts to hum? Reason being is I have an old 115V motor from a washing machine I installed a wheel arbor onto and a buffing wheel. I have it connected directly to a power cord with no start capacitor. Whenever I plug it in it hums. I just spin the buffing wheel in either direction and it works.
So I have a 4 wire condenser motor. If I cap off the brown with white strip, then I wire it EXACTLY like this 3 wire video where the Brown would go on fan capacitor and white would go on common capacitor and another wire will be on common going to the contactor and black would go on the contactor opposite side. Right ? Lol
Thank you. Tried wiring a condenser motor w/o tri terminal capacitor. Went back to using 4 wires and may still have a problem. Too wet out to check now. It started both ways but opened up the overloads. I re-used(new one on way) the 5M capacitor.Seems Spec sheet called for 7.5 MFD. Can also check spin direction and reverse the short armature? leads. Can using 5 instead of 7.5 MFD capacitor overheat te fan internal Overloads ? Serious.
Pat Dwyer Thank you for your comment! When you say that it opened up the overloads, can you be more specific as to what happened? Did the entire AC unit lose power, or did the motor itself shut down? After long of a period? You would definitely want to get the proper size capacitor for the fan motor, but you should not notice any problem running the 5M (rather than the 7.5M) in the very short term. It would be more of an efficiency and long term durability issue than an immediate overload issue.
Only the condenser fan motor. It started and ran 20 minutes then stopped spinning. Cooled off and started up and ran for 15-20 minutes in 105 degree heat. Took it back to Grainger today to get the open air body I wanted. They told me" It is a bad motor". Gave me a replacement of same model,frame,etc. Will wire it up tomorrow morning. The marathon motor that came out was air cooled by machined splines, grooves and shaped openings at motor housing endplates. Packaged unit has a Drip guard of 5" diameter. Be great IF it was just a bad motor. Internal overloads had zero air flow and windings get hot.OL's opened up to protect motor. Still looking for the open air model. I have pic of what I want.
Believe it or not the second motor I had ordered the same day has been running full blast for 2 days in 100+ heat index. Second motor is from Home Depot on-line. I will look at the box (In truck) and give make.First one was a Marathon motor from Grainger. Grainger got it here in under 48 hours. Wired it with separate Capacitors 4 wire configuration as it was w/ a 208 v 1200 rpm 1/2 Hp motor. Took it back given another on that is still in box. The Home Depot one wired up same way fit unit housing perfectly no cutting of fan shaft,etc. I will post the manufacturer when I get the box out of my truck.Home Depot had no way and would not expedite shipping so it took 6 days to get here ups ground from LA, California. Grainger shipped from Jacksonville ,Fl about 400 miles East of Me in Pensacola. So far so good I am actually starting to to get too cold by the time I finish pecking out this message with my right index finger. Thanks for your help. I can always go with the Dual capacitor next time but as long as it is cranking out 65 degree air while it is close to 100 gdegree heat index Thank you Home Depot. They do need to allow for expedited shipping. Dwyer
Could you tell me why you need a dual 3 terminal capacitor and fan won't work with 2 terminal cap.? One side of capacitor is herm for compressor, other side is fan. If fan side of dual is bad and I don't have a dual, a separate capacitor will work as well as 2 individual capacitors, one for fan and one for compressor, share the common..gee whiz
Doe it matter what prong is used on the capacitor as long as it's in the correct place? Meaning there are 4 prongs on C, 3 on herm and 2 on fan. 2 words go to C does it matter which one gets connected where?
Hi, Thank you for your comment! As long as you have them connected to the right set of prongs, there is no designated placement for each terminal. Thanks!
at 1:07, your talk about 2 terminal capacitors not being able to be used with a 3 wire motor is wrong. On a 2 connection capacitor, one side is the fan connection (usually brown)....the other side, this is (Common now although 2 sided capacitors don't have polarity), is connected to the (C) side of the existing 3 connector (C, Fan, Herm) capacitor that has the (Herm) connector for the compressor). They are all like this. I am surprised you don't know this.
My Rheem fan has 3 wires, and a 3 prong 50+5MFD Round Capacitor, and 2 prong 5MFD Oval Capacitor. So I agree with you, but since the Round one says +5MDF, does that mean I can remove the oval one?
@@googlesucks3623 No. The three prong marked C, Fan and Herm is still being used for the compressor. If you remove it, the a/c won't work. The fan capacitor was moved out of the 3 connector to a dedicated fan capacitor. This might have been done for a few reasons. The new fan capacitor has one connection to the fan, usually brown in Rheem/Rudd and the other side goes to either the C on the big capacitor (usually orange in Rheem) or, one side of the contactor T1 or T2 depending on who wired it, but also orange in Rheem
@@googlesucks3623 I would also check the label on your fan motor to make sure what mfd rating it has and if the dedicated fan capacitor is the correct rating.
@@JohnstonPettigrew , thanks for the help. I had removed the fan to oil the spongy things inside that feed the fan shaft oil. When I put the connections back, I put the black wire to relay, the brownish tan wire to the 2 prong (terminal) oval 5MFD and the orange wire to the FAN terminal on the round capacitor. Rookie mistake I took a sloppy picture. After I read your reply I moved the orange wire to the C terminal. After that the fan started right up and still going. Thank you. About my question, I was wondering if I could move the Brown Tan wire to the 3 terminal cap FAN connection and remove the 2 terminal 5MFD altogether. I saw an original layout and the Rheem has just the 3 terminal round Capacitor 50+5MFD 370/440. I'll just leave it as it is, again thanks for the help, I feel more competent now, even if I don't sound competent.
@@googlesucks3623 you could eliminate the dedicated fan capacitor and use the fan connection on the original 3 terminal cap., but the question is why was this wired with a dedicated fan cap. in the first place. Since both are 5 mfd and the schematic calls for 5 mfd, why was this done? If you test the Common to Fan on the larger cap. and it tests good, yes you can just use that one and eliminate the dedicated fan cap. But, the question is why this was done this way......it is usually done because the fan side of the larger cap. has the wrong mfd rating and the tech doesn't have the proper cap. on the truck........or the fan side is bad and the tech doesn't have a replacement, but he does have a 5 mfd oval on the truck. If the fan terminal to common tests good, yes, you can use it and disconnect the oval. Brown goes to Fan and the other side can be eliminated as the common side of the big cap. has a jumper to either T1 or T2 already there.
Which "T" are you referring to? The work "line" on the diagram simply points to the two wires that are considered "line" wires- You must have three wires to hook up your motor in the manor described in this video. You do not need any more, cannot have any less.
dear sir I will request you please teach about Automotive car condenser fan has two low speed fan and high speed fan how Ac EFI system Fan condenser work with circuit thank you so much
@@northamericahvacvideos Hi, I purchased my motor from you on Amazon. The one that came out of my unit was a 5KCP39FG. I purchased the 5KCP39EG. Just had to drill new holes on the grill that holds the fan. One question though: when I connected the wires as per the diagram on the motor housing (YELLOW to C and BROWN to FAN, my fan rotated in the reverse direction. I had to reverse-connect these two wires to have the fan blow out from top of condenser. Has anyone reported that to you at all?
@@paramjitkahai5570 Hi, Thank you for your comment. I will say there are many motors that begin with "5KCP39FG" that are followed by different numbers. It sounds like there is a change you may have ordered incorrectly. If you would send us the model number of the unit this motor is going in, we can begin by checking to see that it was ordered correctly. Thanks!
Wrong you can use a three wire on a single fan capacitor if you run a common wire to the Fan capacitor. Or run a jumper from the common on the dual capacitor to the fan capacitor
#North_America_HVAC I have a 220v fan motor.. I have a plan to connect it to my Cycle to make a electric cycle. Is there any way to Connect 220v motor to a 12v battery of Exide...??!! PLEASE REPLY..................!!!!!
