Fantastic! This will allow me to change the motor and get a few more years out of the old unit. Don't want to part with thousands of dollars at this time if I don't have to. THANKS!
sir,note that it is about connections of the coil from inside that determines the ran, common, start, and the rotation direction wires. here is where the issue comes in. hope colour of wires confuses.
Thank you. When I went to install condenser fan motor the motor had 4 or 3 wire installation. I opted for 3 wire.Deadended the brown w/ white stripe wire. Started fine...5 ton package unit cooled but the Condenser fan stopped after 15-20 minutes. Looking at old vs. new the Dayton (new) did not have ventilation openings in bottom to pull air through the windings so I am figuring the new motor is overheating and thermal overloads opened. I waited kicked it back on...cycle repeated itself. Now I will go Back and wire it with the 4 wire assy.
My unit has the four wire fan, but it also has the Start Relay, the Dual Capacitor, the Start Capacitor and the single Run Capacitor and of course the Contactor. When my Start Capacitor failed, I just bought all new capacitors but unfortunately, the rushed photos I took of the wiring were not good enough to follow with certainty. I'm only finding videos for either or single or dual run capacitor with 3 or 4 wire fan motor, but leaving either the Dual Capacitor or single Run capacitor out starts the motor fine but it runs at only half speed or so. My question is how to wire both into the circuit as a four wired fan.(Which is how it was wired before).
The video was very helpful and made it simple. I have a problem tho. After running for less than five minutes I blew the breaker. There is three wires coming from the condenser, two thick wires connected to the contactor, and one small green wire that was connected to the dual capacitor I replaced with the oval. The green wire was not connected when I ran the fan. Where do I connect it? To the oval capacitor? There was also an orange wire coming from T2 that connected to the capacitor that I did not connect. Thanks!
I watched your video on installing a 4-wire condenser motor. When replacing a 3-wire motor with a 4 wire motor I added the 2-prong capacitor and just disconnected the old fan connector from the dual run cap. Will the compressor run like this or do I need to jump any wires on the cap
When installing a condenser fan motor and a single capacitor and the unit has a hard start installed with a dual capacitor do you you eliminate those 2 items, so will the single capacitor run the compressor and the fan motor.
Unfortunately, without signification and unit specific wiring changes, you cannot use an older air handler motor to replace the newer ECM or X13 blower motors. They are making generic X13 motors that you can use to replace yours, but in the case of a true ECM, you must replace it with another OEM ECM motor for now. Good luck!
question: I am replacing my portable A/C plug in, which has the normal 3 plugs ( neutral, pos and negative - however their a tiny forth wire connected to the circuit board ... should I just cut and wrap the forth tiny wire?
Question for anyone who knows. I had a black wire connected to my capacitor (not from the motor). I had the brown wire, from the motor, on the same side as the black wire. Brown with white on other. I turned it on and the motor was making noise but did not spin the fan or even let me bump the fan to spin. I switched them and the thing has so far been working.
Great video! For my heat-pump, my 3-wire motor black lead went direct to a control board (defrost?) should I wire the black lead of my new 4-wire motor to the same board instead of directly to the contactor?
Yes, in your case, you'll plug the new black wire on your motor to the same terminal that the black wire from the old motor was on- on the control board. Typically, only heat pumps will have this configuration and it is important for the defrost cycle in the winter.
Just watched your video. I have a Rheem outdoor unit. I replaced the fan motor and bought a new dual run cap. The old motor is 3 wire and new is 4. So i followed your instruction to run it as a 3 wire however the motor is turning the wrong way. I swapped the wires as it says to reverse direction but when i power it back up it will not spin. Could this be because I didn't hook up the brown/white wire and brown wire to a seperate cap?
I have a Rheem a/c unit. The motor i'm replacing is a three wire (orange, black and brown) wires; new motor is four wires (two brown one w white stripe, yellow and black). unit has two capacitors both two wires. I hooked up like video said with both brown wires on one of the capacitors and black on one side of contactor and yellow on other side (same side other terminal). Fan ran slow, removed yellow wire and left off, fan moved fast I think like it should. Am I gonna do any damage? Burn motor, capacitor or whatever damage? Another video I watched said yellow wire and brown wire with white stripe are same (Brown with the stripe had an end on it yellow was bare wire that's why I used that one instead of yellow to hook onto capacitor). seems to run fine but worried I will have issues.. What do you think???
truth teller Thanks for your comment! If your motor is running full RPM and operating properly the way that you have it hooked up, you will not damage it by continuing to let it run. That said, there seems to be some odd detail missing in your description. If you hooked 2 wires to the contactor relay (on each out going leg) and the two brown wires to the smaller fan capacitor (and not both on the same side of the capacitor), the only reason I can think of that it would not run full rpm would be a bad capacitor. By removing the yellow wire, you dropped in motor's voltage from 220 volt to 110 volt, effectively making it a 3-wire motor, and a condenser fan motor cannot run on 110 volt. Perhaps someone put a jumper wire from the contactor relay to the fan capacitor, in which case, you would not need all four wires? If this happened, it would effectively be rewiring to the system to be set up for a 3 wire motor. This sounds like an odd situation that would need a set of eyes on site to figure out exactly what happened and why- the good news is that if your running and cooling, your in good shape!
Hi there. I have a motor 50ktyz. 220v . 5 rpm with one red two white and one green wire and one capacitor it came with it.capacitor is 630vac 15.4j. I need help to connect it to mains to rotate 5 rpm . can you please help me ? Thanks
bijaya poudal Thanks for the question! It sounds as though you are working on something outside of the HVAC field- or at least outside of the North American HVAC field. If you are able, can you send a photo of the motor's labels to info@northamericahvac.com so we can see more precisely what you are working with.
my motor was the same but I also have a red wire. the motor I changed had a red wire as well but it was not used it was just taped off. what is that red wire for?
Hi, thank you for your comment. It sounds as though you have a two speed fan motor and only one speed is being used in this case. Good luck with the repair! :-)
@@northamericahvacvideos ok so that is not a issue? the thermostat has only a fan on off option or auto so I guess that makes sense since there is no hi or lo option.
Many motors have a thinner green wire attached to the motor's casing- this is a grounding wire. It does not affect the operation of the motor, but is a safety wire in case the motor shorts our internally and becomes electrified (extremely rare). If you have this green grounding wire, you are supposed to connect to a good ground on the unit somewhere. Where exactly you would connect it just depends on the unit that you have- often times there is a grounding lug with bare copper wires going to it inside of the control cabinet. But verify the location on your exact unit with someone who can properly advise you before hooking it up. Good luck!
Thanks for the feedback! There is volume on the video that works fine, we admit there is a bit of an echo, but this video was made over 8 years ago when technology was not what it is today. We do have more recent videos with better sound quality. Feel free to check them out if you would like.
OLCtv Thanks you for your question! To confirm, it sounds as though your fan is running even after the rest of the unit turns off? If so, the most likely is that the wiring for the fan motor is attached to the wrong side of the contactor (i.e. the incoming voltage side) which would power the unit whether the contactor is engaged or not. Another possibility is that the thermostat is telling the whole AC unit to run, but the compressor isn't, which makes it seem as though the fan is running when it shouldn't be. If it is the entire AC unit that is running continually, then likely causes of the issue would include the unit not being able to cool the house properly or the contactor relay stuck closed. If the compressor itself isn't running when you want it to, then a bad capacitor, burned off compressor wire, or bad compressor are the things you'd want to check into first. Hope this helps and good luck with your unit!