You just saved my life... Thank you for this video very helpful... I had to wire a universal motor to a old singer furnace. Burn one out... But thanks to your video I got it right this time.👍🏽
FINALLY ! GREAT VIDEO! IT WAS AS THOUGH YOU KNEW. I WAS STUMPED.....or some how knew I had been connecting wires aaaaand plugging them in only to have sparks followed by cuss words! Thank you very much , good video.
Hey, what's up chicky? I watched this the other day to fined out what the commands where on my 4 speed. And you said you sometimes seen the command on a 3 or 4 speed as the purple wire and that's exactly what the command wire was because it didn't have a white wire and that's how the motor come out of the unit. Thanks 🍻🥂🍷🍹🍸
Good explanation, thank you! I have the same motor: 120v, 3 fan speed wire, without heat. How can I instal the control board, and which one for using 24v thermostat? Thank you!
Suggestion: you may wish to consider using darker markers and with wider tips when you write on diagrams, charts, and similar. Depending on the various settings available on a any arbitrary display (e.g. contrast, gamma, saturation, etc) thin lines, light colors, and so on can be completely "washed out" and for practical purposes totally invisible...even at the maximum available resolution RU-vid allows.
I am trying to replace a 3 wire 220v blower motor with a motor that matches specs but has a number of additional wires. The old motor only had a blue black and red wire. The new motor has 2 SOLID brown wires, a white wire, a black wire, a red wire, an orange wire, a blue wire and a grey wire. I watched this video of yours several times and can’t get it right. Hopefully you can help me. I tried to attach Alicia of the area I’m trying to use but couldn’t find a way too. Thanks
The start capacitor doesn’t cause the motor to start by providing a “charge”. The cap causes a phase shift between voltage and current. The resultant phase shift allows the motor to start.
These videos are made for laymen. If you would like to talk technically, you might want to watch things not aimed for entry-level/beginners. It's like trying to explain science to Bill Nye The Science Guy because he worded it in a way that children could comprehend. Maybe next time you watch Dora The Explorer you can complain that her Spanish is improper too.
ran into a Heat pump that had at one point had an ECM Blower but someone put in a PSC blower. System had high head and suction pressure and was not cooling. I lowered to low speed and it stopped having High head and suction pressure and is now cooling. Just FYI if anyone runs into that.
I just replaced a working 29 year old Carrier gas-pack in my mom's house. Yes, it was still heating and cooling, but I decided to upgrade it to help save on energy bills and have something reliable. I took the blower out which still worked fine. I hope your wiring diagram is the same for my motor. I want to make a garage fan out of it. Wish me luck! 😊 By the way, went with a new Trane gas pack. Boy is it way more efficient!
@@vasidee267 Aimed at techs. What I was describing is not DIY project. ECM means Electronic control module, PSC means Permanent split capacitor. So, someone changed out an Electronic controlled motor (960 different speeds ) with a single phase 1 speed motor in high. Techs get it, DIY needs some training to understand.
Yeah, that was not my question at all...do you want to explain what do you mean by "high head and suction pressure""..my AC guy has no clue what you mean .so maybe in English you can explain what it is ...
Question I have a 4 plus the ground cable hvac motor blower Emerson brand old type internally procteted two cable on the capacitor only,which wire will be the hot wire black,red,orange,brown?
What would happen if a 3 speed motor is wired for 1 speed only (white [as common] + black is wired as "high") and the 2 other speed wires are not properly parked or wired off. For example if the low/med wires accidentally touched the furnace housing (short), or the 2 wires touched each other.
if you wouldnt mind helping me i want to turn this blower into a shop fan which wires would i connect to the capacitor? i think black is high but it has 6 wires not including the ground and the colors of the wires are blue,red,black,brown, yellow and orange
I have an old York, 23 years old unit. Two of the wires from the motor are red and blue and they are connected to the control panel push terminals marked "Park." Are these the same just safety holding/dummy type terminals that you had mentioned in the video? It appears my heat and a/c are connected with the same black motor wire via using a small jumper wire to each of these control board terminals for heat and cool. I was wondering if I could get my heat to operate on a slower speed if I were to remove just the small jumper wire from the "heat" terminal and now inserted either the red or blue fan wires to the "heat" terminal if that work as to get the heat fan speed to operate at a slower speed? Thanks in advance!
Is it possible for one of the internal motor wiring to be faulty? In other words, can the Black-High circuit be functional but not the Red-Low, for example?
100% you can have just one speed that is bad. So if you suspect that it is just one speed, swap out with a different speed and see if it works! So sorry for the late response, I hope everything was fixed for you.
Great video! I have a problem and if anyone has a solution I am all ears! Wired a blower motor like this up. Now it keeps tripping my breaker. Replaced with brand new breaker and still tripping. Any and all solutions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Has anyone responded to this? I'd have to see the wiring diagram, know the voltage of the motor, and preferably the model number off of the unit. Not all motors wire up the same, and there's a chance it could possibly be something different. Does it always trip the breaker, or is it only in your heating or cooling? For example, if you were to set the thermostat to 'fan on' does it still trip? If it's already been fixed, just ignore the questions!
15:18 great video,question, I am wiring a 4 speed universal blower motor only need 2 speeds. My new motor has 2 solid brown capacitor wires ,does it matter which brown wire goes to capacitor on the opposite side that has common and the power jumper .
@@tyronemorris2634 The two brown wires coming off of the universal motor can be placed on either one of the two poles on the capacitor. As long as there is one wire on each pole, you are good to go!
I just figured out how to turn the comments on RU-vid, so sorry I didn't get the notification for this! The two brown wires from the universal motor can be placed on either pole as long as it's not the same pole. There's no polarity on the capacitors with 2 connections. So, when you are only using 2 speeds, you find which speeds your motor is using. On many older units, they would use high speed for cooling and low speed for heating. If there isn't a label anywhere on your old motor that you can see, it's a safe bet to use medium high for cooling and low for heating. You can always use high and low from your new motor but if you notice any whistling or loud vibrating, change the speed down to a lower speed.
@@elswag The two brown wires coming off of the universal motor can be placed on either one of the two poles on the capacitor. As long as there is one wire on each pole, you are in business. Just don't put them on the same pole!
I have a trane furnace system that only use 115vac 1050rpm. Seems only used capacitor for two white wires and one brown wire the new motor there are 2 brown wires so, do I need to connect them as you video ? Besides that my system only uses black and red wire . I checked my system diagram seems those 2 wires are not used anywhere. Would you help me to wire them with the new motor. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
My 120v blower moter has no white and no orange. Can you help me decode the 4 colors I do have? It only has a black, yellow, red and a blue wire. Since I have no white, I dont know which one is the common and which ones are for the different speeds? The capacitor does have a brown and a brown/white wire. Is my common wire just missing or does some other wire become the common? Thanks. PS: I did apply power to the black and yellow wires and it came on just fine but that was totally a Hail-Mary guess. It probably couldn't have went horribly wrong because according to your diagram i likely applied power to the high and medium speed wires. Im not sure. So I turned it off. Thanks.
As far as colors of wires, it isn't the same for every motor. For example, Mars universal motors often use yellow for their common instead of white. I have come across Nordyne units that use orange for their common. On the diagram section ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SjPx_YMT8ck.html freeze it and look at the wire labeled common. The common wire runs on a different winding than the 'run' windings. Which will be your speeds: low, sometimes medium low, medium, sometimes medium high, and high. The common wire usually has a capacitor line branching off of it, or in a wiring diagram on a universal motors you will see whichever color wire they are using as 'line' with a double arrow going between the speeds. The common wire is always separated on the wiring diagram and will go in a different spot. In your application, the common wire will go to the neutral on your control board!
@@opentopublichvacschool Thanks. I found out that on my blower motor (since there is no white wire) The Common is the Yellow wire The Low speed is the Red wire The Medium speed is the Blue wire. And The High speed is the Black wire.
I have a 230 voltage fan blower motor and the wire red for low that is the fan speed that I want do I hook the red wire up to the heat sequencer or to the power board and the yellow wire says line in do I use that wire for my second wire I am on a two wire setup and I have the brown wire and the brown wire with the white strip on the running compasitor?
The wiring diagram on the motor would let you know which wire the common is. You would need to use the wire that is the common wire, and then the red wire for your speed. Even though this is for a condenser motor, you can skip through my other video here where I explain this more in detail: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rAExHb7doLs.htmlsi=wFTZ0RVY-RyF93qF The same rules apply for blower motors as well and how your wiring diagram is laid out on your new universal.
How do I find out which wire is the coman wire the wire diagram doesn't say .just that the yellow wire is the line in with a line in between the yellow and blue wire
I did all of the aforementioned and my speed is high on both black and red wire after I switched windings from Clockwise to Counterclockwise. Clockwise rotation was slow but when I changed to Counterclockwise it started blowing high.
That is definitely an odd one. I would have to see a video or a picture of how it's wired up. Changing rotation shouldn't cause a motor to run on different speeds. Just changing out the speeds should do that, not when changing rotation. (if this is a universal motor)
I'm replacing a 3 speed motor with a 4 speed motor. is it better to use the med- high or the med- low to replace the med speed on an electric forced air system. Thank You !!
With motor wire speeds, it's definitely a trial and error thing. You are only using 2 speeds, unless you also have a board that has a FAN terminal in which you are using 3. Depending on the age of the unit, I would go with medium-high. If it is a much older unit, I would instead use Medium-low.
Hi, my motor went bad, I do not have a control board and motor does not have a capacitor, only two wires and that's it, I connected a furnace motor that I had with only two wires too and it worked a few minutes and stopped, removed and it was very hot, guessing motor went bad. I want to buy another one but they all have several wires and videos are all for this kind, any recommendation will be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
So your old blower motor was probably a shaded pole, which did not have a capacitor. Alternatively, your other motor could have been an ecm which has the module with the capacitor attached to the motor. If your system is gas and you do not have a control board, more than likely it is an older gas furnace. On a new motor, with say 3 or 4 speeds you would need a capacitor to go with it. Your new motor may not be bad, it may just be connected wrong. You should have two wires going to the capacitor, a common wire (in your case with gas heating, neutral) that can be different colors but the most common with universal motors are white or yellow. The other wires are your speeds which need 120 volts to come on. Since you only had two wires on your old one, you are only using one speed. I would recommend using a medium speed on your new motor. The other wire on your old motor would have been your neutral.
@opentopublichvacschool hi, thanks for answering. The new motor also has to wires only and is bigger, that is why it puzzles me that it overheats and stops running, being bigger should run more at ease. Can I install one of the new ones with the capacitor?
Is this a normal residential unit, or is it an above-the-tub (furdown) unit? Does the motor have a double-shaft with two blower wheels? The fact that the new motor only has two wires makes me question what the specs are on that motor and if it matches up with your old one. I would need to see what the old motor and the new motor looks like to give you an answer. Otherwise, I wouldn't know what to tell you.@@carlospacheco7361
@opentopublichvacschool hi, thanks for responding. It is a home, central unit, one of those in a little closet, the blower only has one side, both motors only have one shaft. The bad one doesn't have any mark or numbers or nothing, the replacement says: Westinghouse furnace blower motor, split phase, 1/3 HP, 115 V, part number DNP 05-0916A, this is i have on the garage, is old but look unused but gets very hot when running and after a few minutes it stops and after a little while starts again. Can I put one like the one in your video with a capacitor?
You can, yes. The main issue would be the rpm and horse power. If there is no marking on the original motor, it's definitely going to be hard to find something that might not over-heat. Does the other one you have in there (the one from your garage) take a capacitor? It may list it on the label. Should say something like 5 mfd or 7.5 mfd or 12.5 capacitor. If you want to replace it with a universal, I would go with a multi-horsepower motor and use a medium speed. Just make sure the capacitor matches exactly with the new motor. @@carlospacheco7361
My blower motor is bad I think either that or my capacitor the capaciter looks fine and my blower wheel can spin freely I almost have the motor out rn my futnace have been messing up since sunday. I trouble shot everything and replaced a bad main high limit switch and the black plastic housing was cracked and got a upgraded model my board is still saying high limit and all other sensors limits are fine. Its making an high pitched electrical noise and turning off my thermastat which is a ecobee 3 I dpun the wheel on motor and I discharged the capacitor and turned unit on and it worked fine for 10 mins and started doing yhe same thing its a goodman unit and I think the high limit switch code is coming up cuz the blower motor isnt pulling the hot air away from furnace. Do you think its the motor or capacitor?
You can test the capacitor in the unit with a basic clamp meter if you have one. You can also get them for cheaper at Home Depot, Lowe's, or Harbor Freight. (I think Harbor Freight sells one online for like $15) The high limit in this case sounds like it is doing its job. Try testing the capacitor first (I have a video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HE4180RIWJE.html on how to test it) Since the unit is staying on for several minutes before shutting off, it does sound like it is overheating. To test the motor, you can check the windings as well with a multimeter and you can also check it mechanically. Depending on whether it is upflow (in a wall, closet, or in a garage) or horizontal (in your attic) it is OK if the motor has a little bit of vertical play (not more than a 1/4 inch) but if you are able to feel any side to side play on the shaft, the electromagnetic core is brushing the windings on the motor, causing it to overheat and then shut off. Which would give you an 'open high limit' error code on the board. Or 'open limit switch'.
I took pictures of my wiring before I removed them to clean the blower. I connected them back but the blower won't kick on. It works if I wire it to a plug and plug it in but won't kick on when connected to board... can anyone help?
Sorry for the super late response, RU-vid for some reason won't always tell me when people post a question! I assume you were able to find out but let me know and I can can come back to this message.
@@opentopublichvacschool yes I figured it out. My control board was pretty old and I’m thinking when I disconnected the blower that I may have broken the connection on the board maybe the solder broke although I didn’t open it up to see. I ended up buying a replacement control board for $160 off of Amazon and everything worked out perfectly. For anyone that’s interested, I had a white rogers 50A50-298 (they don’t make them anymore) and replaced it with a white rodgers 50a55-843.
@@kylebolen7649 Those are the super universal replacements. They actually do make a board for that now that is part number RF000129. It crosses directly to the Amana number. Glad that you got it fixed!
Its 99 here right now im disable and this heat is sucking the life out of me ive been trying to get this motor in after sun drops i cant find code of emerson online
my old trane air handler has a black and a blue wire on one side of the capacitor, and a yellow wire on the other side. The unit is making a thumping/knocking noise when not running/blowing. It seems to start and run fine when the stat calls for air. Not sure why it's making noises when the stat isn't calling for air.
That...doesn't sound normal at all. Normally a thumping happens while running if something is trapped in the blower housing or the blower wheel is coming apart. Did you see if an animal got in there or maybe something was pulled into the unit? I've seen insulation, plastic bags, all kinds of things.
@@opentopublichvacschool The only time the noise is noticeable is when the blower is not on, so that makes me think it is not related to the blower spinning. The noise is very faint... just a light thumping, which sounds like there's some residual current flowing to the blower somehow. The system works fine otherwise. This air handler is in an unconditioned attic, and it's currently summer (July), so it feels like 150 degrees in the attic. I was able to open it and replace the capacitor (which didn't stop the noise). The only odd thing I noticed was all the wires are coated in what appears to be oil mixed with dust, so it looks like oil is leaking out of the blower motor, which is mounted upside down (shaft pointing up). I'll look into getting a new blower motor and replace it when the weather cools.
I have rv air motor black is hi white is low blue is missing and brown i know new motor has 2 brown black white red with no code emerson k55xjcp 2593 i want to use same plug but dont know code on emerson 😊
I have an old motor, can't find a replacement. 5KCP39LGS519AS, I can get close. 1/2hp, 3speed, 208-230v. but when it comes to speed and amp draw no such luck. I can find a 4 speed & 5 speeds and thanks to the video I know I can use a lower wire, but the amp draw is lower or higher than the original. Any thoughts ??. Thanks
So, amp draw as long as it isn't way higher than the original, is fine. You don't have to perfectly match that, as long as it's close. If the amp draw is lower, not a problem at all. That means that it is using less energy. So, in short as long as your not using something that draws, for example, normally 4 or 5 amps, you wouldn't want to use one that draws 11 amps or more. As long as you aren't noticing a really loud vibration after lowering the speed you'll be fine!
@@opentopublichvacschool Thanks, I was watching your motor speed video when you replied, apparently 795rpms is not common today (not for a blower motor), 1075 rpms is the slowest I could find, I Don't want my hamster cage imploding/exploding.😀 If you had a 800 rpm motor would there be a percentage you would consider comfortable over that speed??
Well, unfortunately yeah. It would be better to go back with the 900 rpm (same as 810, 825, 850, all are actually 900 rpm) That would definitely cause an issue with the blower wheel. How large is the blower wheel? I don't know what brand unit you have. But I can say if you purchased a higher rpm motor like a 1075 rpm (same as 1100 rpm, same as 1200 rpm) you won't be able to check if it's causing an issue with the motor without an amp draw. Say, for example, you could lower it to the lowest speed and see what amps it is pulling. You'd need a clamp meter for that, but that would be the most logical thing I could say might work if you decide to purchase a higher rpm motor. Basically it's checking to see if the motor is over-working itself. You may even be able to use a medium speed, you would just need to test it in action. Hopefully all of that makes sense.@@RobertDoppalina
Thanks again,something to think about, it's a Goodman unit. Everything is cooling, cleaned the whole system, even checked for blockages inside the unit. Will be checking electrics again. I did find a 4 speed, 825rpm,1/2hp running at 3.9a.. The only difference is 1 extra speed & an extra 30rpm on the face.
The 825 rpm should work if your motor is a 1/2 hp and the voltage is the same. (220-240 volt) The extra speed you wouldn't use but it isn't a problem at all! I would go with that 825 rpm motor.@@bravo4rcw80
I replace the indoor fan motor with a universal one.. my issue is that the fan run continuously even on automatic? 3 speed white and one solid brown and a strip brown.. both brown wires i have consumed to cap. Black L 1 is my speed and the white i have connected to L 2 where im wrong?
This is a bit hard to understand exactly what you are asking, however, if your wires are connected correctly (for example, L1 and L2) your speed wires should be connected to some sort of relay. If everything is where it should be, then you have either a bad fan relay, or a relay on your control board is malfunctioning.
my questions is the wires coming from my furnace is red ,black speed and orange from transformer to my old 240 volt blower motor,, the red and black for speed had a plug end that plug into the old motor,,and the orange went to 1 side of the cap and the old blower motor had only a brown wire and a orange wire,which the brown from the old motor went to the other side of the cap and the orange from the old motor went to the same side of the cap as the orange coming from the transformer,,.now with my new motor and matching cap ,,the new motor has the brown and brown white stripe,,a white which is common or line,and the speed wires ,,,in this application would i use the brown and brown white to each side cap and tie my orange transformer wire to the white wire of the new motor or would i use the solid brown to the cap and the orange from the transformer and white from the new motor to the other side of the new cap,,my new motor has the brown and brown with white stripe and the white common and 3 speed wires which i will only use 2 speed,,,
This means that your old orange is now white. There are two ways to wire this, but for simplicity's sake, let's just cap off the brown/white striped wire and put the white wire on your new motor where the orange from your old motor went. Keep that jumper wire with the white wire like it was before with the orange.
@@opentopublichvacschool so just put the white wire from the motor with the orange wire from the transformer to 1 side of the cap and the solid brown from the motor to the other side of the cap and just delete the brown/white ?,,,there is no jumper,,the orange is the hot wire from transformer
@@purebredamericana7645 Yes sir, that is correct. Place the white wire with the orange wire that goes back to the transformer. And delete the brown/white wire.
Does the fan speed need to also go on the capacitor? You said the white common and the speed went together to make 240v please help I'm burning up in here.
In the most basic sense (which is what we are trying to convey) a capacitor accepts voltage, boosts it slightly, and sends out the boosted amount of voltage. --*Do not try this* If you would like to test it out, charge a capacitor up and lick it. Maybe you'll get smarter.
All of these motors have diffrent codes and colors 1 made in koriea is totol diffrent color code and use my motor said white is low speed black is hi speed so this not even the same at all
No, you wouldn't be able to do that with a gas powered system. The original motor would be 115v (120v) so your new blower motor will need to match the original specs.
Normally this indicates that it is a two speed motor with your common being white, or if it is a gas system, neutral. On rare occasion I've seen yellow, purple, or red for your common. The two browns go to the capacitor and the others should wire with your speeds. I'm unsure if you have gas or electric, but if it is gas the two colors are your heat and cool and the white is your neutral. This is for a blower motor, right?
@@opentopublichvacschoolthis is on a rv roof air my old motor said white low black hi and its got a blue and that part is missing and brown i know fan ok the motor im useing has red black white and two brown with no code on motor its emerson k55hxjcp 2593 all is same 1/4hp 3 amp 2 speed wire is what i dont know what wire is com i want to use same plug up
@@billhamby6230 We do not handle RV parts at the store. What I would do is look up the manufacturer motor that you purchased and look at the manual. Wire colors literally mean nothing as far as where they go, and I have no idea what motor you are putting in there and what your original motor was. When I plug in the part number, I get many conflicting things online so I am not comfortable telling you what is what without a wiring diagram from both. I know the new motor doesn't have it printed on the label, but there should be a manual based off of the part number on the motor online.
@@opentopublichvacschool ive Tried to find it without any return its really a pain to find out all the diffrent motors have diffrent color codes china made boat motorcycle Car change color from 100 yrs of black is ground red is hot on any 12 v now some are red to black to start motor ive got two thats wired that way im burning up in the meantime im getting cooked in this 99 temp im gonna try to fix the old motor thanks
Your video is of no help. I need actual in the field. This is an air handler, an older one. This is an old style blower motor. This is a new Star blower motor. None of the wires are the same colors and go. That's what I needed and you failed to deliver that to me.
