In my 25 years of experience in HVAC/R, in Canada & USA, I would give you 1 million *s for your brilliant presentation, and I've never seen a presentation like this, so detailed. Congrats for your excellent teaching!
Jersey Mike, what is best move when you update the control board and the connections have changed to Molex..I have an old goodman air handler.. I see splicing in my future
I'm 3 years in the trade. Sadly, I learned more with you better than my teacher. That means a lot. Keep it going strong. I know it is not easy doing this teaching video. 🔥 at last most let go my friends hands 😅😂
Hello Ive got 30 yrs in & found your video to teach my 2 new helpers now I think they got it & how important the blower relay is esp when Heat strips are connected ..Thanks a bunch
I am SOOOO GRATEFUL for such an exemplary explanation of how a home HVAC system is normally setup. Your explanation is very easy to follow and understand. There are many videos online, but none as detailed for us DIY individuals. Just recently I had the AC fixed at my home, and this video gave me the knowledge and confidence to interact with the repairman and even impressing him with how well I understood how the system worked. The man was a great Tech and properly answered my questions and he actually allowed me to figure out what was wrong with my system! We had a great time interacting and he even ended up giving me a great discount for the job after he rewired the system. He will be replacing my 30+ year old HVAC system in Jan 2024. A great new friend to have, just because you took the time to help me understand how HVAC systems work. Thank you so very much.
Finding an experienced tech you know you can keep honest and trust is the best part of this. Those kinds of guys aren't a dime a dozen. Glad my video helped get you there!
Thank you brother for taking the time to make these videos for wiring diagrams this is something that I have struggled with and I have yet to find videos that really break it down in layman terms like you have thank you so much
Thank you Jersey Mike!! Had a local HVAC guy come out, and he said I needed a new air handler at a cost of $7-8000 to replace the entire unit because he said it was too complicated, and obviously didn't think to look you up online!! Took me the length of this video to have my air handler up and running.
I got to say, what an amazing video. The presentation and animation is right on point. Anyone who wants to refresh their skills whether a seasoned or beginner this is your video. Thank you for your time sir!!
Hello Mike! I just found this video. Excellent job! I have the exact same Goodman set up and card in my system. I've replaced the outside capacitor last year. I replaced the inside air handler capacitor this year and the DI-POLE BREAKER on the furnace which acts as a cut off for the unit instead of a door switch. One of the two pole breakers went squishy and wouldn't "click" over when switched. Now, my inside blower fan stopped working. Anyway, I did the entire diagnostic in reference to your video. . I checked the power up to the 240v side of the transformer and then direct charged the blower fan from there - it worked. So, I checked the 24v side of the transformer to the common on the control side of the board and got 24v as my reading. I decided to buy a new board for my system. However, I noticed a difference in your board and mine. Yours has a 3AMP fuse and mine doesn't. Would it be possible to just solder a fuse holder and fuse onto the contacts located just below what is labeled "JW1" on the board? Do i need this fuse? What is it protecting? Thanks man! You're the best HVAC guru on RU-vid!
Most informative videos I've found on RU-vid. I can't tell you how happy I am I found your channel. Before the winter months come rolling in I would love to see a video on wiring up electric heat and heat pump troubleshooting.
Jersey Mike saved me again, first the Nest w/Zone valves, now on my old Goodman Air handler, no 24v from transf after changing condensor relay. .....found the 3amp fuse blown....dont know if i caused that by touching the wrong terminal or there was some back voltage from the relay failing??? Any thoughts? I only had the high voltage pulled, did not flip the air handler breaker....so the relay may have been energizer during the swap, didnt check it prior.
Great job Mike .. this is the best video explaining the cooling sequence of the airhandler... are you making second one for the heat sequence.. ? Great job Mike
i like how you go over with this diagrams. You make it clear and where to look for steps by steps. Thank you for sharing. Hopefuiiy that you will make more videos related to schermatic .
I have a goodman air handler with this exact set up as in the video. the relay on the circuit board went bad twice in one month. The first time, the filter was pretty clogged up and the blower would not turn off. It got so hot the circuit board actually melted some. After spending way too much $$$ just to replace the circuit board, the system worked again normally. Only one month later, I noticed blower motor would not turn off and house was not cooling much. Went in myself this time and after troubleshooting, found the relay was was not working again. Tracked down the circuit board locally and replaced and system working again. The second time, no burn marks and filter was clean. Could it be transformer causing relay to go bad? Thanks
How freely does the blower cage spin when turned by hand with the power off? Does it keep spinning freely or does it quickly slow down and stop? Sounds like you may have an overload issue which could possibly be cause by a high current draw from the blower itself. Could be the bearings or the motor.
SORRY I BOTHERED YOU; I PAID AN HVAC TECHNICIAN TO EXPLAIN THE NEEDED INFORMATION FROM THE DIAGRAM; IT TOOK 1 MINUTE FOR HIM TO EXPLAIN; THANK, S FOR YOUR TIME,;, PATRICK. P
Iam entering level I hvacr field for two year, Iam running the service call for rooftop unit, How to contact with u Mike? Iam looking forward to meeting u my greatest intructor Mr Mike…..thanks Eugene
Little confused. Ok you said that when it gets a call for heat that the tstat sends 24v to g and w. Wouldn’t that throw off the relay by switching no and Nc to Nc and NO? Fan speed would be hi and not low like it needs to be. Makes more sense to just send 24v thru w that way the relay coil isn’t energized and the purple wire can send the 120v thru the com to the blower resulting in the speed being low. I’m no tech, just following the circuit.
You're following the circuit but your timing is off. The 120v on the purple wire dead ends at the relay during system operation due to the NC contact being open. It does not power the blower motor. The red or black wire on COM does that, which also determines blower speed. When the stat stops calling for heat, 24v to W and G is lost, heat relay opens, fan relay reverts back to default position and purple wire loses 120v. So when the NC contact recloses, there is no power there on the purple wire to run the blower, even though the NC contact is closed. It is done like this in the event the relay that activates the heat strips get welded in the closed position. In that case, the purple wire will continue to have 120v on it even though the system is not calling for heat and W is not powered, because the relay is welded closed, it no longer needs a 24v signal to close the heat relay. It's permanently closed and always passing 120v through. This is when the purple wires serves it's only purpose: to force the blower motor to run as long as the heat strips are on, even if the thermostat W and G terminals are not being powered. Because the fan relay NC contact is closed when the stat is not calling for heat cycle, the 120v can now pass through the fan relay to power on the blower motor. It is an emergency function, not normal operation.
I first started learning and confused the COM to blower as a neutral common in 120v system....The relay is conducting 120 v to the blower so why it is called a COM is confusing
Yeah that's the down side to learning electrical. Same term can have more than 1 meaning. When it comes to relays, a COM is a wire that can attach to multiple circuits. So the relay in this video, for example, the COM wire going back to the blower motor can connect to either the NO circuit or the NC circuit that the relay is attached to. It's a wire that's "common" to both circuits.
Mike, how familiar are you with newer RV ACs? I’m attempting the Nest install on a GE RV AC. They, like others, have the proprietary control board and Thermostat. I’ve seen a few videos of people making it work with a 24vac transformer or power adapter and 24/12 relays. I have all that. I talked GE into sending me the unblurred copy of the control board diagram, my issue is that I’m unsure of what wire to connect where on the Nest Learning Thermostat. Anything you can do to help?
I have a Mr cool 3ton universal heat pump. Running it currently only with a heat kit and no refrigerant lines connected to it. My board went on a power outage and i was sent another board. This board is different by 2 pins on the board. There are no longer in/out pins for the heat signal wire to connect to from the heat kit molex plug . Looks like a relay was once there ( telling from the old board) and now those pins are not there on on new board . The exit of one of those pins went to w1 . Should I run the red signal wire directly from molex plug to w1 . Maybe that relay connection was going bad on old board and they superseded the board with a better design?
Why is the common wire taking power to the fan motor? And why is there 120v going to the common terminal on the transformer? I always understood common was ground
@JerseyMikeHVAC why does it go through a common on the relay and why is there a c beside the transformer. I know you're busy if you don't have time to reply I understand
Hello I have the goodman as you talking about This is what I'm dealing with . We have 220 volts on both legs. I can't get it to start up. I check the low voltage and it shows 15.09 volts. The red wire shows the same 15.09 volts. I touch the white and red together to see if it would start. Nothing then the yellow and green. Together nothing. Have 220 on both 50 amp breakers still nothing. So I'm stuck in the Georgia heat.
@JerseyMikeHVAC Okay Thanks for the reply. The two top poles are showing power 120 per pole. The bottom poles are showing 15.09 volts. After watching your video 5 time back to back. The power wire that should have 120 volts at all time at the blower motor is not there?
@JerseyMikeHVAC well I was checking the volts coming out of the breaker box in the house. As you know I have two lines running to the system. Both are 220. The top line is for the A/C system. The bottom line is for the Heat system. After checking from the house both lines are pushing 220 from the house outside to the unit. Top A/C has something that looks like a breaker but it looks to be a contact type breaker have power in and out. Now the bottom breaker has a off on states 45 amp. Well after checking it on both side is were the problem comes in. On side shows 124.9 volts the other side shows 19.40 volts? So I removed the wires from the and tested it again now I have 220 volts. That breaker must have some type of problem for it to let let power come thou the other side of that breaker. I'm sure that maybe the main problem.
Well after replacing that breaker now there's 19.48. On the low voltage side and have power on one leg of the blower motor. STILL WILL NOT START UP. MAYBE IT THE RELAY?
When you check for low voltage coming out of the transformer, make sure to disconnect the low voltage wires from it. You want to see if the voltage drop is still there on the transformer without a low voltage circuit attached to it. The reason why is because on a voltage drop problem like this, the problem is typically going to be because of a high resistance problem with a switch, a relay or the board itself. Possibly even the fuse. With the low voltage wires disconnected from the transformer, this test will tell you if that resistance is indeed in the low voltage circuit somewhere if after disconnecting it you read the normal 24v off the transformer. If you are still reading below 24v, then you have a high voltage issue or a transformer problem. Since you already have 120v on each leg to the transformers primary side, then it can likely be a bad transformer if you're still not getting 24v (most readings I take are actually higher than 24v, typically 26-28v). If you confirm you have normal voltage off the transformer without the low voltage circuit attached to it, you now need to go through your low voltage circuit to see where the voltage drop is occurring. Remove the low voltage wire from the R terminal on the fan relay board and test that R terminal for voltage. If you're reading less than 24v there, see if you're getting a voltage drop across the fuse. Test one side of the fuse for 24v then the other side. If you see the drop there, replace the fuse and if it still persists, then the fuse connections on the board are the problem. If you do read 24v at the R terminal with the R wire disconnected, then your issue is downstream somewhere. Put the R wire back on the board and remove the wire to the G terminal on the board. Put the thermostat into cooling mode and test for 24v at the G wire itself where you disconnected it. If you still see 24v there, then there is a problem with the fan relay board itself. If you see a voltage drop on the wire, then shut the power off to the air handler and put the wire back onto the G terminal of the board. Go up to the thermostat and jumper R to G to bypass the thermostat. Restore power to the air handler. If the blower starts right up, may be time for a new thermostat.
What happened to the video of you going down the list of components to diagnose an ac? And the video of you hooking up all the components of a funace (i think it was a furnace) one by one? I thought i saved them and now i cant find them
Okay The problem was the transformer. How i have 26 volts. My question is the thermostat is a four hookup. It leaves me with a blue wire and the O wire that gos to the board. Can i use the O wire with yellow? And the blue wire cap it off.
I don't go by colors. I go by terminal to terminal. R from T-stat to R on relay board. G from stat to G on relay board. Y at stat directly to the outdoor contactor. Other wire from outdoor contactor to C on relay board.
@JerseyMikeHVAC I understand . I strace down each wire. From red to white to green to yellow. Again that leave me with two at the unit wires blue is coming off the side of the A/C contact that it maybe be the commen wire The O wire is coming off the the board. My question is what do I do with them. I have nit started the unit up until I here back from you to see what to do with them. I was thinking by your video to hook that O wire to yellow. And that commen wire to the white wire . Just asking.
What 2 wires are going to the outdoor contactor? Blue and what? What terminal is the O wire off the board connected to? I'm assuming your talking about the relay board in the air handler? Do you have heat strips or a heat pump or anything else aside from straight cooling?
@JerseyMikeHVAC THIS HAS A HEAT STRIP. They are two wires left over in the unit The blue wire is coming off the side of the A/C 240 contactor for the A/C . The other wire is as you said it's coming off the board O side. Them two wires I'm sure at one time came off a diffirent thermostat That had the O B terminal.. I installed a new Honeywell 4 wire hookup. White Green yellow and Red. Check voltage there 26 volts. Just asking the wire coming off the side of the 240 contactor is that a common wire. And the O wire coming off the board is that the shuttle value wire.
Do you have a heat pump system? By shuttle valve do you mean reversing valve? I'm not familiar with what " board O side" means. What board located where? In a heat pump system there are 2 boards. One inside one outside. There should be 2 wires to the 240 contactor outside. One is coming from Y at the thermostat. The other is common that should go back to common on the relay board in the air handler. I cannot answer the rest without further clarification.
MIKE, I need some help if possible- I replaced the blower motor 1/6hsp; it arrived with one cord -one side is hot the other neutral is neutral the same as common?? anyway the 2 ends of the power cord I put the RED WIRE(POWER WIRE" IN THE FEMALE SOCKET Pin socket# 4- I have at the bottom of the Molex connector three WIRES IN SUCCESSION PIN#7 BLACK - PIN#8 WHITE - PIN#9 BROWN; WHERE DOES THE NEUTRAL END OF THE POWER CORD PLUG INTO PIN# ?? WHEN I TOOK A COPY OF THE WIRING INTO THE SOCKET THERE WERE 3 BLACK WIRES IN POSITION 1-2- AND 3- THE RED WIRE WAS IN POSITION # 4 DIRECTLY U8NDER POSITION 1 DO I PUT THE JUMPER WIRE BACK INTO POSITION 1 AND 3; AND PLUG THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE POWER CORD INTO PIN SOCKET # 2 or plug into position 7 ?? hope you can help; thank you PATRICK.P
ITS A COLEMAN/EVCON DGAT056BDF BLEND AIR THE UNIT ONLY PRODUCES HEAT AND AIR FLOW; NO A.C.-I WISH I UNDERSTOOD HOW TO READ THE DIAGRAM; WAS NEVER EXPOSED TO ANY OF THIS; THANK YOU, PATRICK PETERMAN FROM MONTCLAIR, NEW JERSEY !! THERE ARE ONLY-- 4 PIN SOCKETS THREE ACROSS THE BOTTOM 3AND 1 UP THE SIDE@@JerseyMikeHVAC
MIKE THE BLOWER MOTOR IS A OEV6016 CENTURY EVCON(322P289) thanks again, Mike !!@@JerseyMikeHVAC by the way I,m not looking for a free lunch- just let me know !! Patrick
learning this over the past year, took a class for five weeks at PTech where I live, there not all the great, I have been buying property for 38 years, and the last 5 years been wanting to learn more about ac, I have better then average, Is there a class on line that goes over the whole process? Central air seems to be about 90% wiring.
I'm developing a full course myself, but it's probably a year out. I don't really know of any online that I could recommend. You may be better off just reading manuals and wiring diagrams, which is where I've learned most of what I know electrically.
ok thanks. from Staten Island myself. now in Florida. you recommend any good manuals? I understand electrical, I wired my whole house I built, so understanding the electrical isn't really an issue, but how one is running off the other, looping from one part to another, that kind of stuff. is there any good manuals for that? thanks for getting back. @@JerseyMikeHVAC
Thanks sir. Your presentation has provided me more than what I am currently enrolled in at a Tec. College in my area. I am in my first class Electricity for HVAC . Due to time management this process you have demonstrated in 12 minutes what should have been done in my 16 week class . Book we are using - Electricity for HVACR , Joseph Moravek.
Impressed , on how well you explain with schematic, I'm still new in HVAC and it's not easy for me to follow the schematics but you do an amazing job. Thanks for sharing knowledge
