So, I was having a hard time finding good, overall knowledge on stators, magnetos, and general wiring of a cdi unit to a magneto. So, I figured it out, and as always, I'm here to share my findings.
I was able to wire an aftermarket CDI and new ignition coil on my 81 Yamaha and did everything as shown in the video and it runs better than before! I just wanted to say thank you for posting the video. This saved me a lot of time and money since it was basically impossible to find a original CDI for the bike I've been working on. Thanks again!
I watch so many videos on the CDI and the stator coil since I watched your videos you help me a lot I got the AC on my stator and the ignition trigger pulse working like it should thank you for your help
I want to thabk you for posting this video...I know you haven't had a chance to answer my question about running 2 cdi boxes since I have 2 pick up coil triggers but I went ahead and hooked two up. I had watch another guy on DC CDI 6 pins and followed him and was not getting any spark and so I came back to yours and saw the other guy is telling people to out the power on the top right not the bottom right of the 2 pin side ....so I switched it based on what you said and BAM I got spark! Thank you so much for posting this video, or I'd be lost with no spark right now!!
Thanks for the video! I did this on a 2001 Kodiak 400 and it actually worked! However, at higher rpms it breaks up and backfires so I don't think it has the proper advance curve like the original cdi box. But it does run well enough to get you by for a while!!
I’m having problems with my wolverine and what he does not say is cdi’s need to have a spark advance curve or they will not run good at higher rpms. Cheep cdi will get it to run but not right
Dammmm about time I found some one that can explain this step by step y finally got my 1997 Kawasaki 400 to spark and not only that you saved me like 900 dollars cuz I was gonna bay the original cdi and stator man thanks your the best thanks.
The top right, bogus, wire is a kill switch wire. Kills spark when grounded. On mine the bottom right wire you have going to the positive battery actually gets connected to a red wire off the magneto. Directly to the battery may cause the CDI to always be on and drain your battery.
Thanks for clarifying the wiring arrangement for the pickup coil - I have a Kawasaki KLF185 Bayou and not sure if either of the two CDI units I have for it work as the bike is in bits right now and neither CDI seem to give a spark on turnover so I have just bought a DC GY6 CDI for it and will give it a go!
@@silviurogoz8962 Sadly not - although I am not convinced that the seller of the CDI actually sent a DC one - I have now located a pickup coil for it and am waiting for that to arrive to fit then I will try the two original CDI's again.
Your regulator is not just a voltage regulator it is also a rectifier cuz it's changing your AC current coming out of the stator Q DC voltage for your battery and that blue wire on that ignition box that you couldn't figure out goes to the kill switch
i was trying to wire up a new racing cdi and ignition coil on a suzuki 70 cc dirt bike i think its 1986 i believe i dont know what to do there is what I think is the original cdi and sensor switch under the seat and coil of course is above the motor near the spark plug I just confused it didn't come with any installation instructions no wiring diagram and has me confused also after I tried changing it out i now have no spark and the motorcycle will not run before this it was a one kick wonder i even tried going back to the original like iit was and still no results
@@Wjones450 Why do you say that? The kill switch and ignition switch are linked together and don't power the CDI. I believe they are simply ground faults. I don't think it should matter if it's on a AC or DC system.
@@mitchlec8916 On an AC cdi the box is powered off the stator and doesn't require a battery. On a Dc the cdi requires 12 volts to run . I believe my comment was based off an old wire diagram I had out at the time I watched this video. I'm sure there are many different ways it's done.
good video. when i wired an 1970 snowmobile with electric start from scratch i used a big piece of cardboard and marker to make a wiring diagram, make things easier to sort out. and the regulator you have is called a rectifier. thats what turns ac into dc to charge a battery.
No its a regulator, that happens to also have a built in rectifier. If it were just a rectifier and not a regulator you'd boil all the electrolyte out of your battery with the 30-100+ volts coming out.
thanks so much man been lookin for a week to fix a chienes dune buggt no spzrk problem,did what u said a bam all kinda spark bro!!!!!!!! i wiil b subscribin to ur channel bro ironbill ty!!!!!!!
Having the same issue with my Yamaha big bear 400 runs ok up to about 2500rpm then backfires, the advanced timing seems to be off. Great vid and thanks for sharing
Great video. Clarifying question...my stator only has the 3-wire plug and the 2-wire for the pulse generator. This may be a dumb question but I’m picking up someone else’s mess that “tried” to rewire this 250cc GY6 Engine on a Roketa GK-19 buggy. They failed and they gave up. So I’m starting this up not knows exactly what they did. My question, if it doesn’t have the “extra” 2-wire plug to power the cdi, can I assume it was designed as a DC setup? This thing came with an AC CDI but I think I’m looking at a DC wiring setup based on your video. Bottom line question... it appears possible to convert from AC to DC without changing the stator but not from DC to AC. Is that true? Thanks again for the great video. Any response would be appreciated.
If the two separate wires, are red/black (power to CDI), blue/white(pulse signal to CDI). The others, green, yellow, and white, are power for lights, charging battery, powering enricher(choke).
Thank you so much. I could not fuiger out were the other wire 9ff the pulse generator went to. Its a ground!. And I have been using the rectifier power out to power the cdi. I think that's why im not getting spark!. I need to 12V + from battery to cdi. I didn't know that. I hope this fixes my issue. Thank you.
So I have low voltage coming from stator to cdi for the ignition circuit. I am working on an inverter generator. Why can't I jump 2 of the 3 other ac wires from the stator to power the cdi? Those would be the 3 ac wires that would normally be used for generating power output for the generator.
I have 2 pick up trigger coils...do I have to run 2 cdi boxes or can I wire both to the same wire on the 6 pin DC box cause it only has 1 trigger wire coming off the 6 pin cdi I purchased
You say that green and brown wire powers the ac cdi...but I’m pretty sure that’s not right, the same wires your using to power the dc cdi are the same wires to power a ac cdi also the only difference is that the power wire (red wire) goes to battery with dc and goes to stator to ac...I just kinda didn’t understand that part 6:50
Definitely good info. My problem is going to be using a universal stator for a Minarelli 49cc 2 stroke on a YJ50 Yamaha Vino. Straight up I can tell the connectors don't mate so I'm thinking disconnect the stator side connectors and reconnect the wires to the Yamaha connectors on the stator side. And yes. The colors are not the same. So I'll have to figure it out. I'll see but first I'm a gonna take it to part-time mechanic neighbor/brother of the seller to see if the stator is actually the problem. oy vey.
I have a 99 yamaha big bear 350 .and the new cdi box has a total of 11 wires components out. It's a moto1988. I can't find anything telling g me what wire is what. Any help would be great
Not all CDIs will work on every application. Most engines need a spark advance curve or they will sputter at higher RPMs so it could still be a crapshoot to find the right one. Been fighting my one year only 95 wolverine cdi for years.
So If I have an ac cdi and there's 1 wire (black/red) for power input and theres 2 wires coming from the primary coil from the stator which wire do I hook up to the black/red
On my quadzilla xrv 250cc buggy 2005 the stator wires are 3 yellow with a yellow tail coming out of the multi plug and I have a green and a blue, that's it . What do you advise
Great video iv got an 87 warrior hope this fixes my issue as the used cdi's for and 87 cost between 200 and 300 its ridiculous I have to pulse generators tho on mine one for run and one for start from what iv seen do you know how I would wire up thanks and great video
@@tombauer4887 It won't "run hot" you dumb ass. It just won't have a way to Advance the timing. the Stock CDI has a 3D map programmed to pick up a certain voltage spike at a certain RPM 1 Pick up coil causes advancment at Idle and the other causes reard at high rpm
Just what I have been looking for! Very clearly explained too! Top man! But some questions: I have a 1970 Honda SS50 5 speed. It runs magneto ignition. Could I use the magneto to power an AC CDI? If not no problem I can take power from the battery with a bit of rewiring. Oh its 6v by the way! Next, its a points (breaker) system not coil/magnet triggered. I dont want to mess with the stator. How can I get a trigger pulse from the points? Do you have a video for AC version? Great video my friend! No annoying music either!😉
This youtuber Harvey Spooner tells all about honda crap but is absolutley no help at all if it's not honda just never answers questions at all just found this video havent put into practice yet but seems a+ to me as from what I under stand yamaha and honda use completely diffrent kinds of pulse generators hope that helps this video I believe has helped me
Can someone please help me set up a two cylinder version of this, I have same cdi, and two coils. Should they fire at the same time? (Wasted spark) or something else?
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Wow, I've finally rebuilt a yfm350 engine for an engine swap into a 150cc buggy I have. The engine didn't come with a harness or CDI, so I've had to try and come up with my own. I thought a gy6 cdi should work, but I wasn't sure. Have you gotten this running and been able to test the advance curve in it?
Just did this for a DRZ400 motor, using the original coil, and have it set up on the bench (not in a bike). Mostly works except some issues I'm figuring out. Any idea what would cause a too powerful/too long of a spark? When I'm just cranking the spark is A: REALLY strong, to the point I'm worried about blowing the coil, and B: way too long, to where it almost has a continuous spark even when I'm just cranking. (You don't want that because then it's still sparking as the fresh air/fuel mixture is coming in, which results in lighting the intake tract on fire because it's still sparking while the intake valves are still open. no damage thankfully, but not a running engine yet) I believe this would be caused by the CDI capacitor being too large for the coil's inductance. Sadly, I can't move to a matched GY6 coil because the DRZ's spark plug well is too deep to work with one of those. So thinking of solutions: a resistor (maybe 1 or 2 ohms,would have to play with this) in parallel with the coil input? The idea being to drain a portion of the CDI capacitor to ground, bypassing the coil, so that the voltage in the capacitor drops faster and extinguishes the spark sooner. The con is that this would result in a slightly lower voltage rise rate (because the resistor doesn't have inductance), effectively retarding the timing a little bit. Alternatively, the CDI box I have is one of the clear potted ones so I can see what's in there, and maybe I dig down and replace the capacitor with a lower capacity one. (this would be the ideal solution, but very challenging to do without completely destroying it). Edit: Realized I don't have a ground path from the motor to the battery on my wooden bench, and my coil is grounded to the battery, not the engine. So it is probably charging the sparkplug while it develops current in the coil, jumps the sparkplug gap and charges the entire motor, until the inductiveness of the coil high voltage side "runs out" of energy, before the charge in motor then jumps back through the sparkplug to reach ground through the coil high voltage side, resulting in a very high spark durations. I'm going to try grounding the motor tomorrow and see how that changes things.
OK so an update. Grounding the engine had a very significant impact in reducing the spark size, and I suspect having the coil mounted to the engine instead of some wire twisted around it's bolt holes would improve it further. I think reducing resistances in the capacitor/coil circuit is the biggest key to getting a nice short spark. So it looks like a normal spark now, but I won't know if it runs properly until I get some oil lines to it. (parts should be here in a week)
@@BackyardRevivals Why wouldn't this work? The kill switch and ignition switch are linked and act as a ground fault. I don't think it matters if it's on a AC or DC system.
@@matt-middleton7884 okay i understand but my quad burnd down i try to get the spark going but looks like my voltage regulator got burnt so im asking if it can spark without the regulator
I will do my best to explain this to you it's like chapter and verse just like your friend told you The color of your Wars is everything on a CDI you're white and black and yellow War does not matter but a AC CID and a DC CID if you try to make them work it will fry every wire also it will fry every electrical component understand you have the AC CID not a DC CID it's really hard to explain your CID is a A.C. CID another words they make a A.C. CID also a D.C. CID if that makes any sense to you at all if I could speak to you over a phone I could tell you exactly how it work's most of China's CID are not any good they are made cheap China's CID wars are usually the wrong colors on a CID units but always remember the color of the wires is everything if you put the wrong color of war were it's not supposed to go you are going to fry the CID unit also all of the electrical components will fry also it's not easy to explain in a comment if I could speak to you over a phone also remember how to use a ohm meter and they are different settings on a ohm Mater . But always remember the color of the warring is everything
