How To Wire Aftermarket Stereo With Steering Wheel Controls & Bose GM Truck 

It's comments like yours that keep me motivated to keep making videos. Thanks so much!

By the way it worked just like you explained and I was working on a 04 hummer h2

thanks for watching. definitely not as hard as it seems when you pull everything out of the box

Have fun!

I'm so glad!

Did you try it out ?

Glad to help!

i appreciate that

glad to help

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂That was funny.. lol

Thanks!

I do not because i am not that great at soldering. No, you don't have to, but it is peace of mind not having everything crimped when you shove it all back in the dashboard.

thanks!?

The headunit goes out to the existing factory amplifier. There are generally some important things to keep in mind though like having the volume set to roughly 3/4 of max on the old headunit so the amplifier isn't set too low or high etc. Recommend watching a video specific to bose systems.

03 starts a new gen so I'm not 100% sure. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

you mean the head unit itself has no place for a 3.5?

You can get buy on amazon

it should but i am guessing. check with crutchfield or the like for a more definitive answer

Did that work bro? I watched video 10 times but I also have 4 orange wires coming from every end.....I feel dumb but I have no idea wich orange goes to wich and wich ones are taped off only 1 of the 4 have a white stripe coming off the car side...help

Our car did not have one, hopefully someone will chime in.

Did you use the factory bose amp. If so do you used speaker out to radio or line level output?

You can use wire harness connectors, I just prefer to solder so that I never have to worry about shorts

best of luck!

Did you figure it out?

I have the same question. I have factory bose amp. So do I use the speaker out or the line out on the radio. My thinking says I should use the line out since it's connected to a external amplifier. Anybody have any thoughts on this delimma.

There is a video showing to bypass Factory amp and it explains that it does work when you bypass the amp.

I'm not 100% sure, but I don't see why not.

you can wire it to ground, or buy this thing called a ground loop

You’re welcome 😊

I have the same question, did you get it resolved?

It's never as easy as it seems.. I'm about to pull my hair out next week attempting this

I can't say for sure as I don't have an 04 Silverado, but I don't see why not. Perhaps someone else will chime in....

Prices for all items in description. You will pay more for installation

Ok. Ill bite..... and?

I've made cables like these before and have to use a magnifying glass takes several hours for me to do. Looking at tv I was thinking how easy this would be if I could see like this.

check this out for the install: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DPQfw6jm-AY.html

I have GM schematics but only up to 2004. On a 2003 Tahoe, the amp is turned on with a signal from class 2 serial data. It is the .ORG wire from the radio into the network connecting many items to this serial data line. When the radio is turned on, a wake up signal and VIN number is shared on the single wire. This includes the amp under the center console at the back. The amp turns on and the radio drops it speaker output to pre-amp low lever. If you can find a schematic online with everything the same, check power to the amp at the fuse block first. The radio get louder the faster your drive because it get a vehicle speed signal from the same wire. There is a diagnostic flow chart for amp not turning on, but if it has power, check the serial data line which can be any color. Under the dash (Or somewhere like that) they use a “Splice Pack” which has 10 wires or so, but the flat side has a metal one piece connector. When removed, a digital multi meter to ground and touching an active class2 wire will read 4.5 volts on the DC voltage setting. Class2 is quickly moving from 0 volts to 7 volts DC. The mete cannot read real time, but will show an average. So average is 1/2 of signal voltage. Ground to radio turned on, is 4.5 Vdc. If nothing, it has to be checked. The amp is hard to get to and produces no serial data until turned on via serial data. Only the right color wire from amp to the splice pack can be checked using resistance or ohms. It should read 1-2 ohms to splice pack when disconnected. This is why they use a scan-tool from the factory, a TECH2. In body, entertainment or radio / amp, special functions, here you can push a soft button to change volume or other functions. Take a clear close-up digital photo of the RPO code sticker in the glove box. These numbers and letters tell what the vehicle was built with. Go into a dealer and strike up a conversation with a tech. Offer him/her $10 for a 6 pack, but they will use their computer year, make, model then print the wires for radio & amp. It’s simple! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired