This video will demonstrate how to connect the DRL's and Halos to the ACC in the fuse box on a Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2018 *Note fuse tap not included with headlights
Perfect video for those new looking at your fuse box, that weird yellow thing next to the two big grey ones is a fuse puller, you use it to safely pull fuses out
toobigal no it really doesn’t. Only worked for about half the fuses I tried it on and then broke the grippers off. This was the first time I tried to use it on my 2015 that I bought new.
No, it’s correct. The two outside pins are hot, the middle is where the load goes to. So on the fuse box one of the outside pins is constant 12v while the other outside pin is switched 12v. And on the fuse tap the left pin is where you want the 12v coming in thru which is correct in the video. Where the wire is coming out of on the tap it’s connected to the middle pin on the fuse box (which don’t even matter for the top fuse of the tap b|c it’s only sharing the input 12v which is the left pin on the tap)
Where do you ground it once you connect everything and how do you close fuse box because there a tick wire on opposite side preventing the box to close
Great video!. We're you able to close the fuse box without pinching the wiring? It seems that you'll need to drill a hole and seal it to be sure that no water/dust gets into the box.
Can anyone help!!! I have a 2017 Wrangler JK and I just installed the Spider axial halo with amber DRLs. No matter what combo I try, once I release the "E" brake the DRLs don't show amber like they should. This is a 6 speed manual. They work when I start the car and even in Neutral with the "E" brake on, but once I release it they go white instead of running amber...
Why should we move the circuit half a step up instead of putting it in place of the previous fuse? What slot does the fuse go into the tap? Top slot or bottom? I do not want to blow a circuit
So this might seem like a no-brainer, but where is the best point to wire the ground for 2017 JKU? Almost every video I can find shows the ground getting wired to the screw for the negative terminal connection. But the company says that can potentially mess up the bluetooth controller and that it should be wired to a point on the frame. Any suggestions?
Thanks for a very good video. I do have two questions. (1) Since you're tapping into the 20A accessory fuse, what size fuse did you use for the tap side going to the DRL? I see most use a 7.5A when tapping into a 10A fuse, like the heated seats. (2) The way you oriented the fuse tap, is it correct for the load side? I just wanted to be sure before I duplicate your deed.
HI - I actually just used this same Fuse Tap method today for the DRL for both LED Headlights and the Fog Lights and only installed a 3 amp fuse and it is working fine! As well if you notice just in front of that slot of fuses there is a single hole, You can feed your power wire thru that hole to power your fuse Tap.
@@kimsmagical4 I'm not sure if you're directing the question at me or not but let me explain what I end up doing. The fuse that is pointed out in the picture is the accessory fuse. While the fuse slot is there, not all Jeeps actually have a fuse "in" there. It's a 20 AMP fuse slot, but for the purpose of just running the halos most are putting in just a 10 AMP or a 7.5 AMP fuse. The fuse has two legs and it's pressed into the fuse slot. One slot is the POWER side and the other slot is the LOAD size. POWER side comes from the battery. LOAD side is the power running through the fuse. So, if the fuse blows, it cuts power to the LOAD side, protecting the electronic that is hooked up to it. The fuse itself doesn't care which leg goes in which slot. You just need to make sure "you" know which slot is the POWER side, as the Halo Lights needs to be hooked to the LOAD side.
My halos just stay on all the time even when I turn on my normal headlights. How do I. Make the halos turn off when I want them too. With out using a switch
That means you used the constant power circuit. You need to get a test light check for power while the ignition switch is on and check again on the same fuse when the ignition is off, if no power while the ignition is off then that is the fuse you want to use.
I have the same question. I found one thread on a Jeep forum where they drilled a hole in the housing within the “square area” near the ground. They used silicone to seal around the wire. I am a bit resistant to poke a hole in the upper part of the fuse box but I don’t really see another way around it. I will seek a rubber grommet to use to seal it before I drill anything. I am actually hardwiring a dash cam to utilize the park mode functions so I have two wires that will need to exit the fuse box. Let me know if you found a solution!
Fuse taps. Always the wrong way to wire something into your fuse box. The correct way would be to open the bottom of the fuse box and add one or two connectors (some blanks already have a terminal for the hot side.)to a blank fuse spot. It is actually very easy to do. Not trying to rain on your parade here but fuse taps tend to turn into fuse box fires leaving you asking if it was really worth it to save 15 minutes.
Your fuse box isnt going to catch fire with the proper size fuses. Yanking up a newer model vehicles fuse box and messing with the factory wiring is a good way to avoid your warranty and mess up wiring to the point a beginner doesnt know how to fix.
