www.altestore.com/store/solar... We demonstrate the effects of solar panel shading and how best to wire two solar panels if partial shading cannot be avoided.
All the great information without the fluff. No annoying intro, no self-promotion, just good information explained in a way anyone could understand it. Thank you I know this video is 5 years old and it's the first of yours I found. But I'm going to look and see what else you've produced because I have not been able to find any good educational videos online for the last 2 years.
Amy, what is really great about your channel, is how you present the information. Simple and right to the point. No sifting through unnecessary information. Moreover, all your videos are this way. This type of channel will help us DIY PEOPLE be successful! Keep up the great job.
After many reasearch, this was the most practical and informative video I have watched about shading effects on both sistems, congratulations good job...
If you research is RU-vid !!! Then you are a IDIOT Lern electronic!!! Look Up BY PASS DIODE !!!! IN THIS VIDEO THEY DELIBERET CHOSE NOT TO USE PANELS WITH BY PASS DIODS .. BECAUS THE PROBLEM WOULD NOT BE THIS DEWESTATING !!! WITH BY PASS DIODES !!!! SO MORAL IS ... D O N T.. BUY ... CHEAP .. PV PANELS .. WITH OUT BY PASS DIODES
Kenneth Schultz that’s true. I have 2 12v panels with 2 bypass diode in series. But I think I will try it in parallel to test it when I got a 12v inverter.
@@kennethschultz6465 Nice piece of advice, but I was just wondering that this nice piece of advice would have earned way more respect if you had just avoided the foul language you used in the beginning. By the way, I just took a risk of being bombarded with more indecent words, but let's hope for the best.
WONDERFUL Teacher Amy! It's one thing to talk solar, it's all together meaningful when you combine that with practical applications! Thank you for your invaluable insight! Blessings 👍😇
WOW !!! WOW !!! WOW !!! Amy you go girl !!! that is fantastic information who would have thought?! really good info! now we know what's happening with the shading?! great ! Really good video thanks for posting
Good work on your videos, very informative, and easy to understand. Makes me want to sell my camper so I can buy another and build another solar system!
Answered my query exactly, thank you. On my setup, each panel is wired in parallel, with its own wire going to the controller. I was considering changing it to the series wiring to cut down on wiring but I can see now that this would reduce performance significantly if shade touched one of the panels.
Since it's been awhile since anyone added a new comment, and since I'm learning a lot now about residential solar energy, I can update people on this topic. Enphase microinverters and SolarEdge inverter with optimizers essentially provide parallel wiring of your panels, which is what Amy is showing the advantages of. Pretty much all residential systems use microinverters or optimizers these days, and therefore use parallel panel wiring. Shading is indeed a problem for my house. But of the panels that are out there, I found one that takes this goal of localized partitioning for minimizing shade induced production loss a step further. Solaria (based in Fremont, CA) wires their cells into 4 quadrants on their panels, essentially turning their panel into 4 mini-panels. Within each quadrant the cells are, as normal, wired in series. But the quadrant's outputs are run in parallel. This means that when a tree branch casts a shadow across the corner of a panel only that corner quadrant drops down in output, while the other 3 quadrants maintain the full output. So, summarizing: in the old days panels were wired in series. When shade was cast on part of one panel all panel's outputs dropped down to the lowest performing shade-effected panel. Today, with panels wired in parallel, when shade is cast on part of one panel, typically that whole panel, but only that one panel, drops down in power output. But with the Solaria panels, when shade is cast on part of one panel, that panel drops down only on the quadrant(s) affected so that the affected panel has minimized the affect from the shading. I haven't heard of any other panel manufacturer doing this, but maybe they're out there. Maybe someday they'll engineer panels so that all cells will be wired in parallel for optimal (minimal) shade effect. No, I don't work for Solaria. But since I have shade problems this is the panel I'm selecting, after a lot of panel shopping, for my new rooftop residential system.
Thanks for this. Seemed the logical way and now I know for sure without having to do the test myself. And yes, more controllers equal added efficiency. But, if you need to save money and don't have shading issues one may not even need the added expense of a MPPT over a PWM controller. Unless of course your system needs to run at maximum capacity.
You are right. I needed to use an MPPT charge controller for the demonstration because I was wiring in series, and needed to drop the 24V down to 12V. But as we showed, since wiring in parallel was the better method, this can be done with a PWM or MPPT.
The only thing you really need, is some kind of regulator, to protect the batteries from over charging. As cheap as panels are now days, it's not ultra critical, that you glean every possible watt. It might be cheaper, to just add a couple of panels, to get the current you need.
I'm installing solar panels on my RV and you helped me determine that: I will install a greater number of smaller panels in Parallel, as opposed to a fewer amount of larger panels in Series. And how to maximize panel orientation if possible...Thanks!
Wondering if mounting a diffuser lens above or white reflector beside the panel would be useful by spreading the light out and overcoming shade problem. Or heck amorphous silicon cells have much less problem w shading so just use them (or maybe instead as a translucent diffusing layer over each mono-/poly-si cell with each pair being in parallel to reduce resistance during shade events).
Hi Amy. Firstly thanks a lot for your interesting videos. I have a question for you! What if I have one of the solar panels placed outside that is affected by the shadow of a neighboring wall. Can I place and use a common mirror to redirect the solar light to the panel? Can you show us how (in)effective this would be? thanks a lot. :)
very good show as always, i learn every time i watch and i save these to watch over and over. i like the fan on the left that it moves pans and tilts, would you say where or a link to a place that sells them, have not seen them up here, eh
Thanks George. I bought the fan a while back online. I think it is Peak PKC0JH. You should be able to Google it for your area. I've beat it up pretty bad over the years with demos (including running it directly off a 32Vmp solar panel), it still hangs in there.
Thank you for this. If I have 2 strings of 4 panels, 1 set faces east, and the other west. If I wire them in parallel, will the loss be minimal as well? So 4S (east) & 4S (west) combined to give me a 4S2P setup into a single MPPT controller. Hope that makes sense.
a question. , in my 8 panels setup one panel face the shade , all are connected in series, obviously they have built-in bypass diodes, may I know what would be your expert advice, should I install another bypass diode on that PANEL although it has built-in internal diodes present? or the blocking diode with that panel would be good? plz advice.
It appears that the most efficient system will be wired with panels in parallel pairs, then in series (I guess you said that). I'm busy watching all your videos because despite the sales pitch for your products, you're sharing facts that will help us all to do solar the best way.
Hmm look Up BY PASS DIODE's ..and see why this shade shait and seriell is bad Why IT is aculey not?. Unless you ofcorse think that All cheap must be best And solar PV are fuking Solar PV What can go wrong Then eat this shait i fore one know the word's and the MEANING ogBY PASS DIODE'S
I've got 3 x 100 watt, 2 x 150 watt & 1 - 120 watt panels all 12V with partial shade how should I wire this system and should I use a mmpt charge controller
Nice presentation but you mentioned a few things and didn't elaborate on them. One is that for those 2 panels, you recommend using separate charge controllers to get maximum power. Regarding that, I have 2 main questions: 1) Assuming both charge controllers are for 12V battery bank, is it ok to connect them both to the same battery bank at the same time without causing any issues? 2) Is it better than #1 if you have a 24V series connected battery bank and instead connect one 12V controller to one 12V "leg" and the other 12V controller to the other "leg"?
brillant. so I have 1x200w 12v panel facing East, and a 40amp MPPT controller. was thinking of a adding a WEST facing 200W panel. So using your shading example and using only the one MPPT, seems going parallel is the way to go, to get that bit extra out of them. thank you.
Sounds like a good plan. Since current is more affected in that case than voltage, planning for different amps is the way to go. Parallel would be best.
i got 24 250watt set Up East 45°in this way 4 panels in series 3 times 140v @ 27A on one EPever 60A@48v 4 panels in series 3 times 140v @ 27A on one EPever 60A@48v West 45° 4 panels in series 3 times 140v @ 27A on one EPever 60A@48v 4 panels in series 3 times 140v @ 27A on one EPever 60A@48v I use RECOM 250+5WATT GOLD PANELS with BY PASS DIODES So this shearing nonsens is just What IT is .. Every seriel set have IT's own 10mm² whole down to the MPPT SO THE 27A don't get lost in oh say """ 4mm²"" is way good enough Yes if you like loss and PWM IT SERTENLEY IS BUT!!! I don't build shait .. with loss as a factor .. Remember!! If IT is just .. good enough .. IT is Half BAD!!!
Hello hello Amy and AltE...I really apreciate your "Hands On" series on top of your theoretical series...! Learning a lot. I have an old Japanese saying I use: "Function over Form". I believe you know this, but, just to be sure: In the beginning of this video, you mention the individual solar cells of 0,5V being connected in series, to obtain 18V. Pointing out the series along the top and showing it again in the diagram, is not a correct electrical "Series": The cells have a negative pad on the top and a positive pad on the bottom side. They are wired in series: From one Top(neg) to the next Bottom(plus), to ad up the voltages. PS: I know this video is: How to Wire Panels and I am murking around down in the machine room. Anyway...Spring Greetings to all from Denmark...Jakob
I was worried about overloading my mppt solar controller but after watching this I got an idea of how to fix that problem, Just put a sheet of cardboard over part of one of the panels to reduce the watt flow.
I have 3 x 40v panels in parallel connected to a 24v system and today its a bit cloudy and the panels make less than 24v only 6v aswell. so of course it cant charge , but why? shouldnt only the amps drop with shade, why the voltage? if i connect them in series i am not sure if i solve the problem because if 1 makes only 5-8v i am still not reaching more than 24, so whats the problem? always when i measure the output voltage directly from the panels, its always about 37v with strong sun and when its cloudy aswell, but as soon as i attach them to the mppt the voltage drops to 6v or less
Would it be feasible have a micro charge controller per cell? would that increase the performance o the whole panel even if it was partly shaded? what would be the cost implications for a panel with 72 cells?
Thanks for the request. I'm not able to edit existing videos, I'll make sure to add those details to my next demo videos. I'm outgrowing the existing system, so am building a better, bigger one for the spring. I'll make sure to have good closeups and schematics for them.
for compact installations it might be great the parallel setup, but this methode requires bigger wiring, low voltage high current is more difficult to transport (more loss) than higher voltage systems (series) in some situations it could be good to mix series and parallel
I think there is something wrong with your charge controller. With an AGM solar battery you should be charging at above 14.4V. I have a CTek D250SA and that outputs 14.65V typically to the AGM battery. 12.65V is less than float charge.
You mentioned connecting each panel to its own, separate, charge controller. Would one then connect those, in parallel, to a single battery bank? How do they coordinate charge current so the batteries don't get over charged?
Excellent question with 2 answers. If they are small charge controllers without communication between them, they would just each turn off their solar panel when it senses the battery is full. If all of the charge controllers have the same settings, they will all pretty much turn off at the same time. If the charge controllers are more sophisticated, they may be wired together with a communication port, and can coordinate and organize with each other. For example, Midnite does a "follow-me" where one charge controller is in charge, and tells all of the other ones when to switch from bulk to absorb, when to turn off, etc.
I'm wondering if there's any direction in making charge CO trolleys smaller. If I had a controller that was half the size of what I have now I could dedicate a controller per panel. As it is now it would be very difficult to alter the system I have at all because of size restrictions(it's in an RV). For shading purposes it would be very advantageous to isolate individual panels.
Genasun makes small MPPT charge controllers for 145W panels and smaller. www.altestore.com/store/charge-controllers/solar-charge-controllers/mppt-solar-charge-controllers/genasun-solar-charge-controllers-c1239/ MorningStar, Steca, Outback, Samlex , Phocos, and others all make several small PWM charge controllers perfect for individual panels. www.altestore.com/store/charge-controllers/solar-charge-controllers/pwm-solar-charge-controllers-c477/
Very nice presentation. Did You notice that WATS on input like on out-up get this same? Yes, converter also is consuming some WATS, thats why there is difference in 5-8 WATS. But nice in that presentation is that voltage is changed when amps stays this same, and You get this same watts like with higher voltage and lower amps. On Your presentation that was difficult to see, because of outside sun and clouds and Your body, but in ideal room with this same light, You will get watts at this same level. But voltage will differ and amps also. PS, I have question, did You not over power Your converter? Because I see that panels in series get higher voltage but Watts stop at 50 watts.
Great demo. I didn't realize there was a difference between partial shading when panels were wired in parallel versus wired in series. Your demo really makes this clear and understandable.
Onley when you use cheap skate PV .. Real PV has BY PASS DIODES .. SO SHADING GET BYPASSED AND SERIEL WINS !! But well i am from Denmark and we know this hmm 30 yers now By PASS DIODE's ain't a new thing .. on deasent PV panels But there is No need or use fore Them in these small setup.. But when you got 48 panels like i do .. you know a misleading story This don't appley to big deasent PV ..
I'd like to comment in here with something. First off, I love your videos. I came back to this one video specifically, but have watched many others experiment with the same thing. The reason I want to clarify something here, is because we actually have what equates to four power sources, or four solar panels. You began explaining that each of YOUR panels has twice as many cells as standard, and that's because you have the panel broken into two sets of smaller cells. By doing this you have altered the shading experiment, which can be observed in your first reading. The current dropped nearly in half, with voltage being consistent. This is because your one panel that's hooked up is actually two separate power sources that are wired in parallel. One has some shading, but the other is still completely exposed to sunlight and is producing its original voltage. This is different than what other panels will do, because per your original statement, most panels are made with a single string of solar cells, meaning there is not a second power source made into the panel and therefor your results are specific to your product (or another product that is made the same way).
Perfect timing. I just grabbed two 36 cell panels from the office the other day and was going to do a new video soon showing shading with them. But the result will still be the same, wiring them in parallel will be better.
Given the performance of fully vs. partially shaded cells, would it be better to rotate these panels 90° so that as a shadow moves right-to-left across a panel, when that first inch is shaded, it partially shades 16 cells, rather than fully shading 4? 🤓🤔🤷♂️
I'm building a portable solar trailer to charge my electric trike. I'm using (2) two 120w 19v 6.7a flexible solar panels. While being towed behind my etrike, only one panel (on top) will be exposed) to trickle charge my 48v battery (using a Genasun GVB-8 boost charge controller). When I reach my destination campsite, I will set the top panel off to the side and aim it to the sun while the second (bottom) solar panel is then exposed. Is it better to have (2) two MPPT boost charge controllers (one for each panel)..? And would I need a blocking diode for the bottom (not exposed while in transit)..? Or... would it be better to get a 200w solar panel..? which would also fit in the track width of the trailer.. Suggestions...? Thank you so much. I may need to call you to set up a consultation. :) Can I reach you thru your website..? My goal is to be able to ride an extra 3-4 hours a day because of the trickle charging as I ride. The Lithium-ion batteries will be fully charge at the beginning of the ride and the controller will kick in to trickle when the volts start to drain from the battery. Marissa Muller did this on a trip across America and each day she was still at 75% charge on the 17ah battery.
If the single 200W will fit, that may be the better option. That gives you more charging as you are riding, rather than just when you have stopped, which is likely when there will also be less sun. But you could do the math based on your schedule. Does lower wattage for more hours give you more energy than more wattage for less time? Generally if each panel has its own charge controller, an additional diode is not needed, the charge controller will handle that.
