How to wire trailer lights 

Glad to help!

Glad it helped

@Eve Nacio So This is what I was looking for, Thanks!

You're welcome!

Absolutely marine grade tinned wire helps. Lower grade Chinese wire will disintegrate quickly.

It's a chevy, just removed a brake light and tied it in. Not perfect but it works.

I figured that's what happen. Sorry, I just have a weird thing for wiring things and I happen to notice that small thing. Hope your trailer is holding up well.

@@DaninDewey yep only issue I had was the Ebay 2x6 lights weren't sealed. I should have known better than to buy them for $8 each. But minor glitch. Thanks for watching.

If you use quality wire it won't be a issue. Crimp connections will drain. You can use adhesive heat shrink crimp connections if you want to step it up but it's not necessary.

Yep! You sure don't want weather to get anywhere inside the wiring. Corrosion will set in and build up on battery terminal.

@@DustinApple hello am redoing my trailer also started today i want to do the second light like you just wondering how did you measure the distance between the two holes that you made

I know this is some time later, but the lack of a good ground causes the bulk of trailer light problems. The best way is a ground wire to every light-provided the lights have a ground wire coming out of them. If they don't, check and strengthen your ground to frame connection.

long enough to turn and not bind up. every vehicle and ball configuration is slightly different.

I do like the new soldering heat shrink connections but they were not available at the time of the video. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance. By trying to keep water out you could also easily create pockets that hold water in. High quality wire won't see a problem but my eyes can't tell the difference between high and low quality copper so I don't know it's quality. If you have low quality copper submerged in water for long periods of time then it will corrode at a high rate. If it's in water or not copper is still more conductive than water so there's very little chance of a live wire conducting enough voltage through said water to a ground source and blowing a fuse. Especially when using LEDs. For me the biggest points are length of trailer, total amps, and wire size. Remember you can have to small of wire but not to big so always go overboard with wire size and you'll have less chance of future problems. Hope this helps but I don't believe no matter how hard you try you can keep all the water out. The smallest nick in a liner and it was all a waste of time. Instead I just make sure my connections are tight and let it ride. Good luck friend.

​@@DustinApple Thanks for your reply. The only improvement you could make is to used marine wire which is tinned to help prevent corrosion, but the cost would be higher. The beauty of the LEDs is the low amps they draw makes cable size almost insignificant but I agree, leaving some breathing space in size is always a good idea. The green LEDs will look sweet under water! I was going to say you could add some work lights to the trailer to help loading at night but I see you already have them on the front of the boat. Very nice set up. Happy new year.

yes. ground from the plug goes to every single fixture.

On a little pwc wagon you'll be fine. Just don't get carried away

@@DustinApple thanks man, I appreciate it.

It's better if you wore a ground to each individual light. But you can do it that way

@@DustinApple Ok good enough. Thanks. Great job on the trailer.

Look for raw materials were you can buy by the foot and the plug separately like etrailer.com

It doesn't matter if you use high grade tinned wire. You're insulating the wire not trying to waterproof it. Been doing trailers this way for 15yrs without failure.

Same as I did on every light on the trailer. Brown running light wire for hot.

Ebay... "3/4 led marker" come in red,amber,and a bunch of offroad colors.

Because China doesn't follow American standards.