How to wire up peco code75 points including the th 

Leo Feaver No problem, glad it was of use :) Thanks for watching.

Thankyou. if only I had a soldering iron. have you ever wired a seep pm1 point motor? I'm a bit lost regarding the DCC earth. I get that DCC +- go to the accessory bus wire but that's about it.

Hello. The SEEP PM1 is simple enough. Its divided into two block of three. Three for the point motor its self and three for the switch aspect. The motor. The motor uses tabs A,B and C. A&B go to the switch legs positive and negative. It doesn't matter which. C is the common return. Simple to remember, C for Common. The switch. The switch uses tabs D,E and F. D&E are the switch legs that power the frog and change its polarity. These are the two that are connected to you DCC bus. F is connected to the frog and when the switch is activated will connect to E or D and supply the correct polarity to it. Again simple to remember. F for Frog I now work self employed doing this for a living. If you wish I can pre wire these for you and connect them to terminal blocks. Same with your points. That way there's no soldering for you to do, you just have to connect the colour coded wires via grub screws :)

+BigBountyHunter Thank you! Your more than welcome.

+BigBountyHunter Love the avatar btw :)

+Melton Pieman Hello. Sorry for the late reply, I've had trouble posting comments on youtube. I'm glad you liked it :) I'll have a look around for a double slip at a decent price and do you wiring guide, no problem. If you have any requests for sections of track or any other layout wiring just ask!

+Benjamin Lord Thank you for the sub and compliment. I don't actually model 00 any more as I've gone back to N. But if I can get hold of a short crossing at a reasonable price I'll put up a new wiring guide for you :)

I guess im asking randomly but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!

Hello. Assuming you are using a sliding switch of the on-on variety it's exactly the same. The three poles under the switch will fill in for the motor. The centre common pin will be the frog with the two outside pins being for the running rails. If you drill a hole through the toggle for the piano wire don't forget to add a Z shaped bend in the wire before it goes into the tube for a bit of compensation :)

If you aren't using a motor you will still need to wire it to a sliding switch. Normally ON-OFF-ON. I believe most people do it mechanically via a wire in tube or a micro switch mounted besides the point. That stops the point being set one way and the polarity the other.

Why thank you! I really must do a slips video.

@@Night_Ferry That would be good! I have a quick question - I'm just installing a point on a fiddle yard, and trying to keep costs down I'm going to just switch it by hand. I'm using an electrofrog point, is there a way to wire it up without a frog polarity switch?

@@stmichaelshill7421 Hello. If you are just using it for a fiddle yard and you dont need the polarity switching then all you need to do is add the insulated rail joiners to the inner V of the points. No need for the centre feed on the frog. This will however create a dead section on the point much like plastic frogs. Not an issue of you are running bogie diesels or larger steam locomotives with tender pickups. However if you are using small locomotives I would recommend wiring for polarity switching or using insulated frog points, its actually a shorter dead section in that case.

@@Night_Ferry Thanks - that's what I was thinking but was looking into it too much - I'll try it out and see how it goes! Thanks for the reply, much appreciated

+James Graham Hello, and thank you for the compliment :) In answer to your question the frog wire is connected in turn to each of the rail feeds. You do this by either connecting it to a point motor with a dedicated built in switch like the SEEP PM1, (full instructions are included) or a stand alone switch if your points are controlled by wire in tube or hand. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions feel free to ask as many as you need ;)

Hello. The principal applies, you just have three frogs to wire instead of two. With the two outside running rails that will give you five feeds in total.

Sorry, had trouble with a direct reply. I left your answer above. Hope that helps, let me know if you need more info or a parts list.

leslebreton Thanks for the comment. I haven't yet but it's simply two points back to back compressed. Its a frog at each end and the sides, so it's divided into four sections instead of three on a standard point. I can upload a video if you want, just need to get hold of a double slip on the cheap as I model N personally. I just wish I knew why the dislike guys disliked the video :)

kenneth robertson Regardless of wether your changing polarity or not, you must always use insulated joiners on the inner V. Hope that helps ;)

Many Thanks for the info.

Robin Poulton Just place them on the inner V of all points and connect as normal :) So if you had two points forming a crossover there would be a total of four IRJ's. Hope that helps.

Yup helps a lot thanks

+rodderss52 Hello. Glad you liked it. I actually posted this for a member of a forum, I didn't realise so many people would watch it! In response to your question... If you pause the video right at the beginning you can get a good look at the points. the two breaks in the rail just before the V are where the two small wires are below the rail. If theses are left connected then the third wire added to power the point will cause a short in one direction. The idea is to have the frog independently powered so your not relying on the switch blades to carry the power. The longer wires on the side connect to a point motor for the polarity switching. Yes your correct, they do the same job as the regular track wires. But the idea is that you wire the point as it own section of track. That way you will have perfectly reliable running with even the smallest of locomotives. If you have any other questions just let me know and I'll do my best to answer :)

+fnp90rd Thanks I will.... and thanks for the video by the way, I am just starting out and I am using N Gauge.. I am an oldie but it is keeping my mind active... wish I had started years ago.... keep your videos coming.

rodderss52 Well your in luck! I'm also switching back to N gauge so if you need N gauge specific wiring guides that will be easier for me :)

But less reliable.