How to Wire Your Chopper | Part 1 

That’s the best description I could ever ask for, truly. Thank you brotha! 🙏🏼

Hell yea man, I can’t wait to see yours on the road. Loving the progress videos!

Hell yea! Glad to hear this. I will add it to the tally for the channel goal 🤘🏼🤘🏼

Ah I see what you’re saying, great point

Glad to hear it man! Thank you for the kind words 🙏🏼🤘🏼

I’m so stoked to hear it helped brotha!

What gauge wire did you use?

Congrats man! Happy to hear that 🤘🏼🙏🏼

Nice catch and great fix!

You got it man! I know wiring always tripped me up so I want to make it dead simple for the future builders

Thank you so much for the message brotha! Truly appreciate the kind words

Really appreciate you letting me know it was helpful! Thanks brotha 🙏🏼

Exactly. Start with the bare bones and add in extra components as needed 🤘🏼

It’s about to be open season on evo fat boys haha that’s awesome 👏🏼 🤘🏼

Hell yea! Was wondering if anybody checked out those tech tip sections. Glad you found it man, really hope it gets your project over the finish line 🏁

That’s what the channel is all about, hope you find the other videos helpful too 🤘🏼

This is so great to hear man! I really thank you for taking the time to comment and let me know this. Baby step by baby step is the way that I learn so I’m happy to hear it made it easy for you too

@@greasesgarage you’re welcome man I was so motivated I got my harness in front of me on the floor lol

@@KINGGOD69 that’s awesome man! Plug and play 🤘🏼

@@KINGGOD69 please share it with some of your friends so I can spread the word to more people 🙏🏼

Thanks brotha!

Happy to help brotha!

Thank you Jason I appreciate that 🙏🏼

Thanks for checking it out homie, hope it makes it easy for you 🤘🏼

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching

Thanks brotha, you too!

Thank you!

Great info brotha thank you for sharing this 🙏🏼🙏🏼

Thank you for the message brotha I’m happy to hear that! 🙏🏼🤘🏼

So stoked to hear this! It really is SO simple and once you can see someone do it step by step it takes all the fear out of the equation, good luck brotha!

Did it help you get yours wired up?

@@greasesgarage Still in the mock-up stage. I saw your video a few weeks ago and bought a fuse block like the one you use. Brilliant! It's a simple chopper, 1942 WLA, fitting a horseshoe oil tank. When the time comes, I have no concerns. Thanks!!

@@charleswiley8540 so cool man, I’d love to see it!

That was my biggest pet peeve when I got into choppers and a huge reason I started this channel. We learn and get more advanced and we forget all the things we DIDNT know at the beginning. I’m trying to make it so simple a person who has never wired a bike can do it 👍🏼

Happy I could help brotha!

Happy to help!

Thank you 🙏🏼

Thanks brotha 🙏🏼

Glad to hear it man! That’s what it’s all about

Thanks!

Question man iv got a generator with a built in regulator can I run that wire into the fuse box?

Haha I hear ya, I get a decent amount of questions about those but I haven’t had them in years. I’ll add that topic to the list though since I know lots of people have them

Absolutely, love the simplicity

You got it man!

Yes. If you go to points and mechanical advance you can do this exact setup. You’ll delete your ECM (sell it on eBay for $200), delete your voes and be able to replicate this setup. However, you’d need to wire in a starter and starter relay as your 98 probably doesn’t have a kicker like my bike does. Still would be deleting quite a bit of junk though, a great move 🤘🏼

@@greasesgarage just what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the kind words! Is the 850 a kick only bike? If you want to run a small battery like mine it will only work for bikes that don’t have an electric starter, these mini batteries just don’t have the juice to turn a starter motor.

No problem! And all wiring gauges are listed in the description, I figure it’s easier to put them there so people don’t have to scroll through the video to find them 👍🏼

🙏🏼🙏🏼

Do you have dual points on that bike? Or perhaps the condenser on that bike isn’t inside the points cover and the second wire goes out to the condenser

ya figure it out? I'm also wiring a KZ in a couple days

You also have two coils with with 2 plug leads from each coil. Look on the coils there are 2 low tension connections. If theyre spade terminals they are usually marked + and - You want a fused feed to that terminal, or if the coils have fly leads the male connectors. The other side of each coil is wired to one of the sets of points. One set does cylinders 1&4 the other set does cylinders 2&3. Seem to remember they're marked on the back plate? Connect the HT leads to the appropriate plugs.

I can definitely ask around and see if anybody in our group has something similar. Much of it would be similar but you’d probably also have a starter wired in and an ECM for the electronic ignition. Eventually I will get a video on wiring in the e ignition since it’s very common

This is basically how you wire a Jap four... 🎉ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gsC8dIC46r8.html

That’s good to know, what brand do you use?

@@greasesgaragecycle electric. They make a low voltage reg for 18-22 amp and the later 32 amp systems. They also make them for generators. They have the letter L on the end of the part number that designates low voltage.

Also make sure you run a ground wire from the reg to the motor, from the battery to the motor and from the battery to the frame. That made a big difference in the health of my charging system.

Dynas website should have the diagram for you saying where each wire is supposed to go

Can you shoot me an email at greasesgarage@gmail.com with some photos of what you’ve got for ports so I can try to get you a guide of what to connect to what? Easier for me to direct you if I know exactly what you’re looking at, we’ll get it sorted out for you 👍🏼

Glad you enjoyed it, here’s the link to the switch I’m using www.lowbrowcustoms.com/products/cycle-standard-3-position-universal-quick-start-ignition-key-switch-chrome-bezel

Glad it was helpful! The starter will need to be wired to battery power through a starter relay. You can find that diagram by googling “Harley starter wiring” and just add that circuit into the harness you build by following this video here. Let me know if you get stuck

Yes 16 is ok for those as well, just not for the battery ground or the electric starter wires if you’re running an electric start

Appreciate it @@greasesgarage. Your videos are huge help.😃

You haven’t told me what is on your switch, how can I advise you?

Thank you! Ignition circuit I use a 20amp

I believe the A post is the accessory post, the middle position between key off and key fully on. I have it wired so I can just click it all the way on and go. You probably could wire it to accessory though

16 gauge for everything besides the battery, I used 12 gauge for the battery ground

These are the factory floorboards that came on my fat boy and I love them. Can’t say enough good things. Highly recommend finding a factory set on eBay as many people ditch them right away

Great question, and yes! 5ohm is needed for points. 3ohm will run (I ran one for a week or two) but supposedly the points will burn out a 3ohm over time

@@greasesgarage great, thanks. You're the man!

On mine I used 12 gauge but with an electric starter I’d use 6

What size wire did you use?

@Dadfromhell 16 gauge for everything besides the battery ground. 12 gauge on battery ground

Cheers Chap! keep up the good work!

🙏🏼

Thanks John! Yes I did delete mine but if you wanted to add one with a mechanical button starter on it you could hook it up with just a few additional wires

Hey Jack, thanks for checking out the channel 🤘🏼 Idk if you saw this one I did on the starter wiring How To Wire Your Chopper | Part 2 (Electric Start) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bS8Wi5H7oZg.html This will show you the extra wires you’ll need, as far as where to put them if I was doing it on mine I’d tuck them all inside that oil tank

That’s awesome! And no, no more difficult at all. You can wire the first headlight to the second and on to the power block. Unless you wanted them to operate independently but I can’t imagine why you’d need them to do that haha

@@greasesgarage- Right on! Thanks! 🙂👍🏻

Let me know how it goes!

@@greasesgarage will do. Also does this also apply to yamaha honda as well?

This is a great place to start, then you can build OUT from there as opposed to trying to slim down from a massively complex stock harness 👍🏼

When we talk about intermittent problems like that my first thought is always loose terminals. A loose battery ground, a loose wire somewhere in the ignition circuit etc. I would start by wiggling every terminal connection to ensure nothing is loose. If you find nothing, pull the breaker off the frame and see if it continues to happen. But having it on the frame doesn’t seem like something that would cause that issue sporadically. It would either be grounded all the time or none of the time.

Really appreciate the kind words man, thanks for taking the time to comment. All my wires are 16 gauge 👍🏼

Yes you would use those unused ports for the signals, you would wire a turn signal relay between them as well which is what tells the bulb to flash like a turn signal light does

It’s definitely possible to wire yours like mine but you wouldn’t want to delete your ECM unless you were going to points ignition. Points ignition and kickstart only is why I’m able to delete basically everything besides four wires. But between this video and the one that shows you how to add electric start I could get your wiring simplified quite a bit

@@greasesgarage okay, thank you for your help, Have problems getting parts from HD , I have only had the bike for 2 months, I purchased it from the UK, and imported it into France, I knew when I purchased it that there was some issues mainly backfiring through the carburettor, I’m now completely stripped the carb and put all new jets in, the same that was previously on my old bike, As I mentioned, it’s got a problem with the alarm system, Hopefully, I can sort it from what you have been telling me, I knew that I had to replace final drive belt, but I’ve now looked at the pulleys and they are shot, obviously the belt has been too tight, Just been quoted nearly €1000 for a power of pulleys, which seems excessive, And I have since found out mainly this morning, as I am slowly going through things clean them, getting prepared to put things together when I do finally get all the parts and gaskets, et cetera, been told anywhere between 4 to 6 weeks, And by the looks of it, they’re in a primary case has been repainted at some point, especially as you can see black paint on the inside of the primary case, and you can definitely see a line where somebody has cleaned the coating off on the outside to a certain point then sprayed it, I did not pay a lot of money for the bike just over £5000, In some respect, I thought I had a good deal, but the way things are going it might have been cheaper for me to purchase something over here, but I did find that they were a lot more expensive here than they are in the UK, I’ve already paid import duty tax, paid for a conformity form, I still got to get the bike registered and I’ve still get the bike through control techniques, similar to an MOT in the UK, Already put two new tires on the bike, What I now seen of the bike going through it, it’s obvious that somebody’s been inside it, but haven’t done proper job, extremely filthy dirt mud et cetera, so before I take anything apart, I’m having to rush it all down, sorry I’m jabbing on a bit, Hope you have a great weekend, France

If you buy a factory service manual for that bike it’ll have a wiring diagram or you could probably find it online. That would give you the stock colors of the wires but if someone rewired it some of them may not match anymore

This type of thing I unfortunately couldn’t tell you via an online message. I would have to be there to see the wiring you’ll want to trace it out and confirm where it’s going

Very similar but your stator rotor and coil may look very different and hook up differently

A lot of people swear by them but I’ve never used them. Might be my own ignorance but I never understood the concept. If they auto reset, how do you know where the problem circuit is? If it trips and the bike shuts down and it resets, you’re sort of left without a starting point. Maybe I’m missing something though?

@@greasesgarage no, my thoughts as well...

Got it, maybe it’s just us thinking this way lol. I see them everywhere but yea I like my replaceable ones for now

Fuse box would still work for you just like you see here

@@greasesgarage awesome thanks for the help appreciate it

@@greasesgaragealso had one other question, would I also need a 30 amp fuse, the one that’s connected straight to the battery for my bike? Your channel has been a huge help and I’m learning a lot love your videos

@Nickamen4321 30 amp would work great yes, and thank you!

All are possible yea. Easiest is a hidden switch. Would go between your battery and the fuse block I show in this video. Right where my key switch goes. This switch would just turn on/off the power to your block which powers everything else

Awesome following this to a T...thank you! Ive got the wire coming tomorrow hope to have it wired by this weekend!@@greasesgarage

How can I tell you without knowing what it DOES have lol

@@greasesgarage that’s a great point lol There’s an S,C,A,M,B Thanks for responding!

What are the options?

Sorry. I’m not to good at these device operations. I did return your reply but somehow it has disappeared. I probably effed it up. Here is what my ignition switch is. I bought it from lowbrow. Altogether it has 5 posts with screw attachments and one that is different. It screws straight in instead of the other 5 that have side attachments. The letters starting from the B post going clockwise are BMSCAM. What other post can I use instead of G to do that job? Thanks, and again I apologize for my mistake. 2:04

@@ronpinkerton3126 I would think B would be meant to go to battery

That’s true. I have the B terminal hooked up to the battery. What I need to know is what terminal to use to power the fuse block as my switch doesn’t have a G terminal. The ones available after the B terminal are MSCAM. What would you suggest?

@ronpinkerton3126 turn your key on and use a multimeter to see which ports are getting power with the key in the on position

16G for everything besides battery ground. 12G for battery ground. As for fuses I don’t know how you determine, but I wouldn’t go higher than 30 or lower than 15 only because I never see them that high or that low

I really appreciate your page more than you know. Keep up the bad ass work, and thanks for awesome, easy to follow content.

Really appreciate the kind words man, thank you 🙏🏼

You’re correct, that’s a circuit breaker. It functions very similar to a fuse in this application. Many stock bikes will come with them so you can reuse them for this section or add in a 30amp fuse if you prefer 👍🏼

amzn.to/3RQ6QJX

@@greasesgarage ty

Here’s the link. I got it at @lowbrowcustoms www.lowbrowcustoms.com/collections/motorcycle-ignition-switches/products/cycle-standard-3-position-universal-quick-start-ignition-key-switch-chrome-bezel

Thanks Subscribed

@@donnieleeman8817 Thanks brotha!

How many coils are on your setup?

You can! But you would also have to wire in a starter. To make it simpler I’d use the mechanical push button cover so you can skip wiring in a relay

@@greasesgarage I appreciate your respond brother! And by far this is the best wiring video online!!! Thanks for the tip

@@fernandocolon3154 love to hear that man, must be doin something right! 🙏🏼🤘🏼

16 gauge for everything but battery ground. 12 gauge for battery ground

Yes definitely, you will just have an extra wire or two coming from the ignition. The manufacturer will typically include a diagram showing what those extra wires go to

@@greasesgarage Thanks for the reply

Some terminals may have a different letter for it but check with the maker of your key switch to determine which terminals are labeled for which application. Alternatively, just hook your battery to your key switch and turn the key on, then put your multimeter (set to DC20) on the other terminals of the key switch. Whichever terminal has power when the key is on, that’s the one you want to run to your fuse block 👍🏼

That’s covered in part 2 How To Wire Your Chopper | Part 2 (Electric Start) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bS8Wi5H7oZg.html However the charging system was covered in this video