Wow I felt like I just went from zero to pro by watching this. Now I know my end results (me not having built an RC anything in 20 years) are going to be so much better. This end result was CRISP. I will literally watch this step by step when wiring up my electronics. Thank you so so much for a great video that will help me very very much! Subscribed
Sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any help you can give me!
Nice. I thought I was nitpicking about not getting a whole bunch of different colours in wire. Certainly keep the temperature of the esc in mind when soldering.
First time soldering after 10 years of being out of the hobby it looks terrible. Thank you for this video especially for guys like me walking into Lipo for a first time.
what kind of solder did you use, would any 60/40 work or is there a better product out there for this specific application? is it necessary/beneficial to use with flux?
And I watched this thinking he was gonna show me some neat way to bundle light kit wires or something. For maybe a drift car or scale crawler with brake, sound, high low beams, blinkers, winch, steering wheel servo, ect. This was just a track buggy ESC motor combo instal. And that should probably be the video title. Anyhow. I would suggest not using lexan body snips to cut and strip wires. This actually ends up cutting wire strands making that 13 gauge a 14 or even 15 guage. And also ruining the fine edge on the lexan body snips. Instead use a box cutter or razor blade to lightly roll around the wire, and score the silicon wire coating. Taking care not to actually cut through the coating, but just very lightly roll over it with the blade. Then just simply pull on the end of the wire, and it will pull off at the score. Using wire strippers also cuts through wire strands as well.
what a tutorial that help me alot to understand how is installation is really help me as a im new with this hobby btw can i ask you something i just buy a new servo but its rotate 360 degress is it posible to used in car?? looking forawrd for your unswer have a good day thank you
Nice vid but I personally would have a bigger soldering tip with more solder on it so you don't end up with loads of little bubbles making up the solder, a 40w weller is great for soldering motor wires, that's what I use, and your crimper isn't ideal, mine crimps all at the same time and you put the connector into the crimper, close it till you hear 2 clicks then insert wire and crimp, crimper HT-225D, i got mine at cpc farnell, on soldering it's better if it all melts at the same time and creates one single solder mound / bubble
Why don’t you use a clamp on your wires when tinning them? It keeps it in place and prevents the solder from flowing into the wire which makes it a hard inflexible block.
Great video!! 2 questions for you - 1) where did you get the heat shrink wrap you put on the esc to motor wires? I can't find them anywhere. 2) My ESC is a reedy, and my receiver is by HItec, the receiver is kind of wide and the receiver, esc and capacitors have a tight fit on the plate. Is it OK for it to be a tight fit touching each other? Any ideas on how to place them so they don't touch? Can the receiver stand on its side? THANKS SO MUCH!!!!
Should'nt you start with the longest wire, then cut them ALL to the SAME length? I do it that way anyways, my thought being consistent resistance on each wire... thoughts?
where did you get that front "wing"? Is it something you fabricated out of something else, or can you buy it somewhere? I'd like one for my Kyosho MP9e....
Very educational. Could you please also state what temperature should be used and what tip ist the best for this kind of work? Also, what tin solder is used? I got an Ersa 80 rds. Is this good enough for this job?
When it comes to soldering QUALITY wire, more is always more. I find a temperature of 600° to be most ideal because it heats everything up almost instantly so you place your leads where they need to go once tinned, apply a touch of flux to help carry heat through everything instantaneously AND assist with leaving a mirror-like sheen to your joints.
Is it safe/good idea to mount esc-receiver wire below esc? When thinking about chassis flex maybe it is so centered area that it doesn't ruin the wire...? Otherwise very nice tutorial!
That's only so if you're using a weak or hobby grade soldering iron. If you have a quality iron, it'll work quickly regardless of what's touching the wire/lead.
You used way too much solder when tinning the leads. You only want to coat the very end al the way around. You fed solder into the wire, stiffening it up at least .25" which creates unnecessary resistance. You also didn't solder the leads onto the ESC properly either. You should clean off ALL the Solder from the ESC ports and then you can slide the leads into the holes and solder from the bottom which is how the factory does it for a perfect solder. Each port should have a shiny bubble of solder just like from the factory. Get a wire stripper and CLEAN your tip!!!
You should always point the wire down when tinning. This keeps excess solder from feeding too far up the length of the wire keeping the wire from getting stiff. It doesnt add resistance, it's just an inconvenience. To get a good solder joint on the speed control, apply solder to a single terminal at a time and attach the wire without removing the iron from the terminal. Once the solder cools, it will never melt the same because the solder flux has evaporated.
2:42 uhh my ESC came with perfectly good wires already soldered on, why should i take them off? 4:50 noooo, all hes doing is dumping solder down a good inch of the wire with it pointing up in the air like that. thank god associated manuals are better than the trash they upload to youtube
you are relying waaaayy too much on double sided tape...I'd want the receiver and speed controller at least ziptied to that carbon plate to assure they never move while running the buggy...same with the motor fan...
You can be a newb and use Zip ties while the rest of us will use quality tape like the 3M he's using. Good luck trying to remove anything you stick down with it, especially on a nice glossy finish like the receiver tray like he did.
