That's one helluva high idle. What's up with it? I have a high idle I've been fighting for a year, now. CEL shows "IAC can not bring idle down low enough" or however it words it. So, it's not the IAC. I changed it just to be sure. I've cleaned out the TB and everything in there. Replaced the PCV... and then the whole MAF/PCV container thing along with brand new seals. I don't want to keep throwing money at it... But I think I have a blown intake gasket. It's running a bit rough at mid-throttle. AND if I pull the oil cap off, there is so much suction that the car dies. Does yours do that? I feel like I must have a vacuum leak somewhere, but it's not external unless it's from somewhere that's not under the engine bay. I think I have -20 mm/hg or psi vacuum at 55mph cruising, according to my Torque Pro app and Bluetooth OBDII code reader. Maybe that's idle, I can't remember.. ugh, I'm not helping much. If you have a reader, I'd be happy to compare some logs. I've even recorded dozens of logs. But I can rattle off some numbers to compare with you. Like MAF intake CFM at idle, Long and Short term fuel trim numbers, etc. Idle, cruising at 55mph, whatever. If you can throw some numbers or values that you want to see, I'll grab them and post them and you can compare if possible. Of course, if it's that cold and you JUST started it, it'd be somewhat normal. I know they idle a bit high when first started to warm the throttle body up quicker. All FI cars do that.
I just bought an 02 Park Avenue, and thankfully the PCV was just missing an o-ring, causing a vacuum leak. In my searching, I saw a video (I forgot what it was, so I can't reference it, but you may be able to find it with some searching) that showed how the plastic intake manifold can warp, right where the lower manifold, the upper plastic manifold, and the throttle body all meet. It can cause a vacuum leak that is virtually impossible to find. It's not that it melts, it just gets so hot that it can warp inside of it over time. Hope you can get yours fixed! Mine is a total joy to drive now. But those vacuum leaks can be scary. Also, I'm pretty sure you can check and adjust your throttle position sensor by hooking it up to a computer. I've read that even a few percentages toward the "open" position can cause a bad leak. I'm no mechanic, but RU-vid definitely helps me feel like one 😅
Hey man I got a question for you. I have a 2002 park ave and the orange light that shows you what gear you are in does not come on and it won’t crank. What do you think the problem is?
@@billp3914 Throwing parts at a vehicle is definitely not the way to fix a car, First you have to diagnose the problem before you can fix it! Example: My diagnosis of the problem here is you have no idea what you’re talking about, You should stop giving advice to people in the comment section! 🤦♂️
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 I am a tech Clearly if you don’t have access to diagnostic tools you go for primary std caused for a no start Neutral safety switches in most cases are the issue until to get past 2005 in gm cars Not all but the majority specifically column mount shifters At the same point check fuses And check for fuel and spark I didn’t say exchange parts That’s your words I hope you have a better day Because when you wrote your text You just came off stupid and prove your not very bright
My neighbors Buick suv - while parked in her steep driveway- just opposit my front doors - started to roll down the hill when her 4 years old grandson accidentally kicked the stick shift out of park” into reverse. No keys in ignition or foot on the break and the car started to roll….. how the heck can that happen??
Definitely shouldn't have but that kid must have kicked the SH*T out of the shifter or pulled on it super hard and "broke" or "popped passed" the lock that holds it in P without the key in the key fob turned forward. Edit: Did you see it happen? This could be her lie that she told the insurance company and she had to tell you all, her neighbors, the same story to collaborate it just in case lol.
@@eltatertoto LMAO. Me too. Must be a mid 30's+ year old Buick Park Ave owner thing. To be fair, my mamaw owned this 2000 Park Ave and left it to me. I always tried to get her to sell it and get a Crown Vic for reliability. The car was 99% problem free until she passed... then the alternator went out along with some issue causing me a high idle. I've serviced this car extremely well. Flushed the coolant at around 50-60k miles. Just put new plugs in (Iridium AC Delco). Had new copper plugs/wires @ 80K. It's at 127k now. Changed the trans fluid 4 times, maybe 5x times. WAY too many oil changes to count... Pennzoil Platinum @ 6k miles. Sometimes just 2k miles because she didn't drive much but wanted it changed. Whatever made her happy. Labor was always free since it was done by me. God, I miss her. It's the only reason I kept the car. Should have immediately sold it before it started falling apart... but it hurt too much to sell it. I got it with around 93K miles on it. in 2019. Maybe less. Probably would have sold for a pretty penny with that kind of mileage on that model of Buick. And it's been kept in a climate controlled, closed off basement/garage for its entire life. So zero rust. Underneath looks pristine and clean. Anyone want to buy a Park Ave? Totally doesn't idle high or anything. Totally doesn't run rough at half throttle, either. Totally. (Sarcasm) Other than that, it honestly has a perfect transmission, gets 34 mpg on the highway, sometimes up to 36mpg average on just the highway (according to the computer) depending on weather and A/C use and fuel. But never less than 34mpg. 5x transmission fluid changes in its lifetime, one coolant flush, brand new plugs. Someone buy this car.. makes me wanna cry when I drive it. Me and her were close and I stayed with her during her final years of Alzheimer's. I still call it "mamaw's car" out of habit. Someone buy mamaw's car! 😄😅😪
