How to work it ?!?!? 

The little indent and rubber mat is there for when you inevitably put stuff there. On my own little lathe, I've got a tray there, for the small stuff that's needed when setting up tooling etc. A great first project for a mini-lathe is a handwheel, mounted at the right-hand end of the leadscrew, that way, (when you've dis-engaged the change gear banjo) you can engage the half-nut and have really precise control of the carriage, it feels so much nicer, and keeps your hands away from the shower of hot swarf! If you add graduations you can get really precise too, They're usually a 2mm pitch, so half a turn per mm of carriage travel. a lot of smaller lathes used to have them, but they tend to leave them off of modern screw-cutting lathes for fear of idiot users hurting themselves. Be careful not to overload the motor, the motors and control boards are prone to faliure. although if something does burn out, that's then a nice excuse to fit a big fat 3-phase motor! although (as you've discovered) it's the rigidity of the machine that will limit you the most, but if you take it slow, you can do surprising things for such a small machine! I'd suggest avoiding brazed-carbide tooling at least for a while, Insert tooling is far easier when you're just starting, and eliminates some of the variables. HSS is fine too, once you've learned to grind and hone it! Glad you're finally joining the lathe-club, the learning-curve is steep to start with, but before long you'll be wondering how on earth you managed without it! Thanks Chris!

Small indent/rubber pad is so you don't damage your micrometer or calipers when you drop them onto there and so that round objects don't roll off. Edit: Lump on the face means the tool tip is too high or too low usually.

The facing issue is a common problem. There are videos out there that solve the problem by adding a clamping feature to the main carriage. I make chamfers using a file just to cut the edge.

Cutting tools (like drills) comes pre-sharpened, but i have a few of those blue cheap ones and they arent great. Get some insert tooling in the right size. I agree with someone here suggesting a quick change tool post. You get a few holders with a kit, and they can be adjusted for whatever thickness tool you have. Just sweeping the edges with a file will remove the burr, try to find a lathe file. Also do check every video ThisOldTony and abom released, you will learn a lot very fast. Good luck, and welcome to the club :)

I think you should get a center drill bit set to make the initial hole. You want to start small and work your way up to the goal size. The final drill operation should not take much material away if you desire it to be accurate. If it needs to be exact, you'll want to get a reamer for that size.

It's fun seeing you build up your shop Chris. Suppurb progress the last couple years. Not only building interesting tools, but creating fascinating projects. Great set of skills you're building too.

As I mentioned previously, using a plastic cover is a no-no. Metalwork will sweat and rust under it. Better to use a cotton cover. Not hard to make. As far as "what will I use it for?" ..... you'll find uses for it every day and wonder how you ever did without it. Rubber mat is to place either measuring tools or chuck key so they are within easy reach.....rubber will stop them bouncing around and falling into the chuck.....well, at least, that is the idea. When cleaning, I always use kero with a paint brush and heaps of old clean rag......kero will dry on the lathe parts and protect them to a degree over a few days.......best to use liberal amounts of sae30 engine oil or similar (cheapo stuff works)with excess wiped away....... keeps hands (and fingers)off later or it will rust....... more so with and bronze, clean immediately as certain types will actually etch the bed ways and any bare metal it remains on.......be aware hold down bolts can distort the bed of the lathe....there are videos on how to ensure the lathe is setup straight with a dial guage and remain that way....again, at least, unless you get a lot of volcanic subsidence over your way....oh, most important, ALWAYS use eye protection...the day you don't will be the day you'll end up with an eye full and off to the local hospital.....I see you already have the usual"up the wall splatter" right from turn on time No.1....get yourself a couple at least of tool steel and learn how to sharpen for different materials......when not used as a turning tool they make excellent packers as they are ground to exact size...i.e. 8mm is 8mm dead on...BTW, one can sharpen the tungsten tipped tools with a diamond impregnated plastic file like thingy..... www.timbecon.com.au/eze-lap-50-x-20mm-diamond-hand-laps cheers Jorgo when turning aluminium, a small amount of turps on a paint brush will have a chrome like finish. There should be a lock on your carriage to stop lateral movement (lock in gear maybe without auto feed engaged)...lump in the middle is tool not on centre...learn how to set against dead centre in tailstock. Think you'll find the tailstock chuck is designed that way, wind it back in to get the bugger out......ouch!!!! and get yourself a couple of centre bits, please.!!!!!!!...chatter means too fast......no. you hole will be maybe 4.5mm.....video gave me a few laughs but don't be put off, all have to start somewhere....suffice to say you have a lot to learn and online videos can be a blessing......ones from reputable operators though like this bloke...... www.youtube.com/@joepie221/videos

That depressed area looks to be where to put little bit of stuff (catch all). I put stuff there on my lathe and since mine doesn't have that depressed area, stuff keeps falling off. You should definitely get the quick change tool post. They are a dream to position and you can change them very fast.

Ahhh!!! the Christmas discounts😂

Use a small centre drill first, when drilling internal bores, your larger drill was wandering af first.

You will find ti very useful for what you do. What I did with my lathe is make a slide out drawer just below (between the feet of the lathe) to catch the chips for easy cleaning.

To get a hole the right size use a piolet hole about .5mm smaller than the hole size you want or a reamer

Nice work Chris you’re welding skills are great

Good call on the HSS tool blanks Chris. These small lathes do not have the rigidity or power to successfully employ insert type tooling regardless of the comments by some. I was a professional machinist for many years so I'll stand by my argument against carbide insert tooling in this case. One of the benefits of using HSS tooling is that you can create the correct tool geometry for the material being worked and this is a fantastic way to learn just how the tool cuts efficiently both in terms of metal removal and tool life. You complained here the tools did not seem sharp. That is because the geometry was designed for cutting steel, Aluminium require more aggressive rake angles. I suggest looking into the Diamond tool holder ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lHs0xVRwuzE.html you will need a left and right hand holder ( be sure you understand which hand to buy) These tool holder are also economical to run since you can use quite short tool blanks and you do not grind away so much of the blank to create the cutting edges. Finally, to sharpen HSS normal aluminium oxide (grey or white) wheels are fine but will not sharpen carbide tooling for those you will need a silicon carbide wheel ( green). Don't suffer with the crap wheels normally fitted to bench grinders get a pair of brand name wheels and a bench oil stone. I had a similar but larger lathe many years ago but I was utterly frustrated by it's capacity and rigidity as I was used to operating professional quality machines. Rigidity in machine tools and it's mounting is very important just like in another more personal activity :)

Thanks for sharing your experience with the new lathe. I have no experience at all, but like you, I've watched a few youtube videos on setting up these Chinese mini lathes...basically rip it apart - clean each part thoroughly, replace the spindle bearings, perhaps a cog or two, check and scrape the ways until flat, then re-assemble it using appropriate lube and careful adjustments. I want to know where I can get parts machined for me nearby for not mini lather purchase prices. The US seems to have such services as "send cut send" but I don't know if all they offer is laser cutting metals. Its frightfully expensive to get a piece of rod machined to size, bored and finished and I don't understand why. Oh, so many things I don't understand.

Yep - go for some high speed steel for sure. you can even sharpen them with an angle grinder. Carbide loves deep cuts and high pressure - exactly opposite to what a mini lathe prefers. God Bless

I spent a full day cleaning mine! I didn't know the blue tools came unsharpened

Looking at the facing issue, this is a lubrication issue. I can see the material building up on the tools cutting edge and lumps sticking to the face, this is caused by cut material heating up and "welding" to the part and toolcutting edge. Soft material like aluminium also cut better with tools that have "sharper cutting edges".

I think you want the tongue on the end of the taper on the chuck so that when you unwind the tail stock all the way it ejects the chuck for you. I have the same, but on the live centers I don't and they are a PITA

The tang on the MT2 arbor should align with a slot in the back of the tailstock socket. It's to stop the arbor spinning in the socket if the taper comes loose. Wind the tailstock back in to zero and try turning the arbor as it bottoms out to find the slot.

This will be great content Chris you might want to make a hook out of welding rod your going to want to try and move stringing metal and a brush for cleaning while you turnand add oil to bit not part Take care

I worked on a lathe for a long time and yes, you need some experience. Cutting speed and lubrication/cooling are particularly important for aluminium, but there are tables for every material (this also applies to your milling machine, of course). I used to cool aluminium with methylated spirits when machining. But that was a long time ago, it worked perfectly, but I don't know if you still do it that way today.

Envy! I just went to drill a hole in the end of a rod, using my MT2 chuck. Couldn't find it... last time I saw it, it looked just like the one you're holding at 15:20. After sixteen years in damp storage, it doesn't look like your one at all... it is very brown, very seized, and no key. Got it working, but it will never be pretty again. ☹

Shiny new toy !! What kind of a motor drive is there for the spindle ? Would be nice to see the torque at low speeds. You would use the change gears for low speeds , of course, but still...

The stub on the back of your chuck is so that you can easily get the chuck off. Wind in the stay and it will pop out. I once used one where it had been cut off and it was very hard to get out.

I have the exact same lathe - also sitting in its crate!

If you need precise or round hole use reamer or endmill. You have to sneak up for reamer so you need drill undersize.

A lathe like this lead me to ThisOldTony, hopefully it makes you just as famous.

Once you get the hang of it. You’ll wonder how you got along in life without it.

You really would have loved having this when you were shortening all of those cap screws.. :)

Know what you mean about Kurtis from CEE, he and Karen do a wonderful job. Need to see who Igor Negoda is.

Nice! Are you going to add a DRO?

coooooool

Do you have live centre. I think I have one lying around. Our lathe is mt3 on the tail stock so cannot use. May also an mt2 er40 collet holder

you going to have soooooo much fun with that little one. get your tool geometry right. alcohol for cutting ally. and time.....more you play better youll get

Looking at the tool at 15:00, I think it may have a tiny piece of aluminium welded to the tip... this could have something to do with the "sharpened itself" comment at 19:10?

+1👍💪

If only we could guve advice in real time , lol. Not being a smart arse , but ive done my fair share of machining. Look it to getting cutting tools with replacable inserts , the brand name tools and inserts generally are bettdr than ebay tools, but sometimes they are okay. Some brands to consider are Sandvik, Sumitomo, Iscar, Taegutec. You might want to look in to a collet chuck, they are often better and more precise for holding smaller parts, 3 jaw chucks are not very accurate at all and their holding force is kinda weak, a 4 jaw chuck is far superior. Keep the tang on yiur tapers , you nees them to split tge tapers. When getting new tools keep in mind your center height , bigger tools you may not be able to get them low enough to be on center. Your tail stock looks like it need aligning from the video, but video can be deciving at times. Maybe consider on getting some proper center drills , they will help with getting yoir holes started . You will have lots to learn , but its all good fun.😊

I swear they somehow have found the equivalent of gutter oil for metal. So many products I buy from china have this gross sticky not qhite clean junk you habe to clean off before use and I dont get it. Must somehow be dirt cheap but how does one even apply something so viscous.

The Tailstock is designed to eject / break the Morse taper by winding the handle anticlockwise. Otherwise, how can you get it to release.? Do NOT grind off the drive tang from the tapered sleeve...Buy some decent Tool steel bits and hand grind your own HSS tools. These small lathes arent rigid enough for tungstone tooling. The spindle motor is also weak, so it wont tolerate high speed tungstone cutting. The spindle gears will give you more tourque with lower speeds. This is why you need HSS tools, not carbide. Learn how to hand grind your own....lol.... You'll get a better finish too when you learn how to hand grind and then stone the edge so its real sharp.....For a chinese hobby lathe it looks alright TBH. Get a dial indicator, some Silver Steel ground bar and check everything is lined up and adjust your Tailstock so it's in line and on centre with the spindle....Buy some centre drills..lol....You can't drill holes on a lathe without first centre drilling....😮😮😏😏🇬🇧

"Promo SM" ⭐

For cutting aluminum are best polished inserts. They leave very nice finish. Like ccgt060204 and they are small enough for your lathe.