How To Zero An Air Rifle Scope | Air Armoury 

Thankyou so much for Posting This Video... Im not New to Airguns but Im New to Scopes and Im just getting into them. That being said, Ill tell you man. Sometimes... Well ALOT of the time I feel lost and confused. Like "Scope Talk" is another Language or something. This Video helpped me to have a better understanding of things and tho Ive still got to put in the time and effort to feel more at ease and comfortable. Atleast now I have a better understand of things than before i watched your Video so I feel like Im off to a much better start now. So again another BIG THANKYOU From a Loyal Subscriber from across the pond... PLEASE Try to Keep making Videos for us now and in the future as well as keep your Channel Active. You make great Vids. and give us good and reliable Info... Youll have my Support for certain. Well have a Great Day man and Safe Shooting... "Arms in the Air!" ~DrJones~ [04/17/18]

You make it so much easier to follow your instructions and explain things in a simple easy to follow method. You don't bombard anyone with irrelevant gibberish and technical jargon. Good for you !

Lmao.. I’ve never seen a video that actually makes sighting in a gun scope complicated . The best easiest and cheapest way to sight your gun in is sight in using a bench rest that locks gun in place shoot 3 shots , look through scope and dial scope to where the 3 shot group is .. BAM done !

I think you did a great job explaining it. I spent a few hours trying to figure it out and when I thought I was making progress, BAM it was right back to where I started. I retired my squint gauge and will be doing it like this video until someone can prove to me a better way.

I did my zeroing using the same distance..and my scope too has 1/4"@100 yds..after minor adjustments with elevation and windage...I had perfect shots. A big thank you to you. Cheers

Finally! Simple, straightforward, and effective. Thank you!

Pretty helpful video for me, as someone that has only really personally sighted in a scope properly twice in my 28 years of life. I've always had my Army friend who shoots all kinds of firearms do it for me... haha. The way he taught me is to basically have a fixed position or a clamp where the rifle will consistently be in the same exact position and just keep shooting and making small adjustments as I go until it consistently hits exactly where I'm trying to hit every time from the same mounted position, which makes perfect sense to me. But sometimes I can't exactly do that (either don't have a proper mount, or mess up the position mounting the rifle after pumping it again, and other little snafus).

Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to put this together. Of course without a clamp it relies on the shooter being able to get a steady group in the first place!

Very, very good. Simple enough to get a novice started yet technical enough to teach an 'advanced' shooter. many thanks

This is how we did it in competition. First, you have to zero the scope. Adjust the elevation and windage until the reticle center does not change on the target when rotated through a full 360 degrees on a stand. Then, shim the scope to be dead on at 25 yards. This makes it so that you move the scope internals as little as possible from dead center for all your shots. The pins that drive the scope up and down and side to side do not do their job linearly. Their is error in its traverse as you move the adjustments further from dead center. And dont hold over or under. Shoot for a group, no matter the bull location. Then, make your changes. And use a full gun rest for sighting in. I suggest starting with Crossman Premiere pellets for target work. US National Champion Texas State Champion Louisiana State Champion Florida State Champion Kentucky State Champion Mississippi State Champion California State Champion 15th in the Worlds

After two minutes of watching the video I decided to tell you how to zero a scope in a minute. Three shots to the center of the target. If I hit 10 feet to the right and 2 feet up keep the crosshairs to center of target and ask my son to move the windage and elevations knobs until the crosshairs is right where the 3 bullets did hit. Never fails. That is after making sure the scope is PROPERLY mounted on the rifle.

Fabulous explanation....worked for my remington first time

Good job , that's how I zeroed my 7 mm Express Remington (.280) the first time . The flattest shooting gun that I've ever owned !

Dont mind the the simpletons in the comments for which basic fundemental concepts of ballistics are too complex or too difficult to grasp. This video contained the perfect combination of informational materal and visual representation of the methods described in theory, and helped immensely in configuring my rifle. Much oblidged for the spot on video.

Thanks for a great instructional video, very easy to watch and take on board. Brilliant stuff

I just got a new breakbarrel that shoots at 1300 FPS, and instructions to the scope got saturated with coffee - papier machet. Thank you for that lesson about zeroing a scope, i never used a scope in my life. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 😀

You lost me when I had to do math 😂

Great video, thanks. I didn't even think to try to zero the scope as you did at 13:35. That makes things much easier.

As Phil Swede mentionned it, but maybe without sufficient details so that everybody can understand (guess) the procedure, here it is in details: 1. You crank. 2 You put your pellet in the barrel. 3. You install a vice and put in your rifle. NO, dont fix it yet. Follow the simple instructions... A very good idea would be to put the vice in place so that you can pomp it again whitout having to take rifle out of the vice. You will see why later. But this is not absolutely necessary; just easier for later on. 4. While having your rifle the vice, but still able to move it, crouch or lean or whatever you need to do, and aim throught your scope so that you at least have your target in sight. If it is a completely new scope, you may shoot completely off the target if you put it too far. So begin at 20 feet or so max. Then, while still aiming, slowly and cautiously tighten the vice while moving the rifle to keep it toward the target. Now adjust the scope elevation knob to the closest because it is very unlikely that you will only shoot at 20 feet. You will want to shoot from further than that, and probably not closer than that; well, not with a scope on at least.... Its gonna save you some adjustments later on. 5. Once rifle cannot move at all and squeezed very tightly by the vice, you shoot. BE CAREFULL not too touch or move the rifle from now on. 6. Do the necessary ajustments with the clickers (the round thingy which clicks when you turn them...) so that the shot is square at the crosshair. Now in theory, your scope is perfect for a 20 feet shot; in theory because... 7. In the very, VERY unlikely case that your pellet was a defect one, do a second shoot. Its a good thing you have placed your vice so that you can recharge without moving too much right? You had a very good idea to do so... Its not that important if the rifle/vice moves BTW. If it does because you didn't fix the vice into place, just slack the rifle a little bit, carefully adjust the position of the rifle within the vice for the correct elevation. Secure tightly. For the side to side (windy) adjustment, turn the vice/rifle assembly to align the crosshair with the center of the target. 8. Shoot. Normally, the pellet should now be straight at the middle of the target if you did everything correctly. The key here is being meticulous, and cautious. 9. Now there is one last thing because it is probable that you wont settle for shooting at only 20 feet. Just to be on the safe side, put your target at the distance you will shoot most of the time. If you have a good scope, you will know how many clicks to adjust the correct elevation, so this should be a walk in the park. Load, aim, shoot, bullseye! If you have a cheap scope on which the numbers dont mean anything, you will have to do one more test. Shoot as described, and now turn the elevation knob so that you have the crosshair in the center, and look at the number on the knob. Its going to tell you how much elevation adjustment is made for each click. In that case, I would recommend you put a tape, with bars/numbers reflecting the distances so that you dont have to remember and recalculate everytime. You wanna shoot at 200 feet, you turn the knob on the 200 mark insteda of turning it on the "7" for instance. Also take note that the first adjustment at 20 feet does allow for a very large margin of error. That's why it is a good idea to repeat the process at long range. The first one was more so that you can take your first shot while being sure it was gonna be at least on the target. The main benefit of this procedure, is that the scope will be perfectly aligned, without considering the shooters bad habit, body positionning, technique or anything. The aiming will be neutral. If you find out that once this procedure is donem that you have a tendency to shoot off target, then maybe you could consider that you are the one having a problem shooting. I'm not flaming you or blaming you, just keep an open mind and remember that shooting precisely is not a video game. Some professional soldier will never shoot straight their entire life. If that happens, I suggest redoing the calibration once more. Maybe you just got unlucky, or careless, or it was windy or anything and you are a perfect shootr but it is the scope's fault. Maybe. So do it another time and see the results. If after the second calibration you still cannot shoot straight, i hate to break it to you, but you are just not a good shooter. Maybe take some lesson because there are more things implied in shooting accuratly than just point and shoot. Body positionning, breathing timing, mindset, general medical health (like very tired) are all things that can make you shoot badly. Obviously, drugs and alcohol should be avoided; and not only for accuracy purpose.

thank you for making this video. I just put a new scope on my gamo whisper x and had it zeroed in quickly using the first method. saved in favorites for later refract. tyvm

Simple and easy ways..... Thank you. So meany times years ago I didn't know if you moved the pellet to the cross or as said you move the cross to the pellet. So simple and easy now......

very clear, concise, and helpful!

perfect everything I needed to know about zeroing in a telescope for a rifle... perfect, thankyou..

I usually adjust the reticle to the point of impact... after that, I’m ready for fine tuning.

I have a spring rifle so invested in a lazer bore sighter, stuck it in the end of the barrel aimed it at the bull on the target and adjusted the scope to suit, crosshairs and red dot both on the bull before even firing a shot. Very handy. thanks for the information though. Dave.

Formula- Work with the distance given on the Scope 1/4" @ 100 yards 1. Get your ACTUAL DISTANCE from the Target and convert to yards. 2. Divide 100 yards by the amount of YOUR ACTUAL DISTANCE IN YARDS This equals the DISTANCE FACTOR that you use in Step 3. 3. Calculate the 1/4" Click Adjustment (.25) and Divide it by YOUR DISTANCE Factor. This give you YOUR CLICK FACTOR for the next step. 4. Measure the distance missed on the actual target Take this MEASUREMENT OF THE MISS in decimal format and divide by that by YOUR CLICK FACTOR. This gives you the NUMBER OF CLICKS to get to the Bulls Eye point on the Target. THANKS AIR ARMORY

A good video. I had a BSA "Mercury" years ago and it was a fine piece of kit indeed.

I had no idea zeroing was so complex. Thank you for the video, but all I do is shoot my target with a stationary rifle. See where the hole is and adjust the scope to where the hole was made. My next shot is usually dead on. Then increase the distance to target and repeat.. done.

Thanks great video. I'm a total beginner I followed your video as you said I'm shooting at 15 yards set the sights and bullseye 😊

I was so lost without this video!! Thanks bro!!!!🙏🙏👋🏼👋🏼👋🏼🙌🙌🙌🙌🍻🍻🍻

Thanks for the tutorial it was very helpful for a first time user

Well explained, well done, thank you

Just got a Gamo air rifle, it's as lot of fun. It came with a "scope " if thats what you want to call it. Now it's a dust collector. Open sights are a big improvement. Reminds me of my Crossman in the 70's. The junk scope did well vertically was a 1/2 inch to the right and ran out of adjustment. Poor optics and clarity and no I wasn't surprised.

What a wonderful vid. Really enjoy your vids. To the point and always informative. Thank you that man.

Very good you made it simple

Great video and communication skills. Thank you.

Like one of adjusting while looking at the cross of the scope...you have real assisted greatly

I would always suggest you start with a decent bench rest front and rear so there is no gun movement by you in the zeroing. Without this small movement by you will send the pellets all over the place and you will not be accurate and you will blame it on the gun or pellets. A solid bench rest is the key to zeroing and only zero where you feel you will be shooting most of your targets.

Thanks that was exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks for the tips in zeroing the scope

I bought my first air rifle, Benjamin Vaporizer .22 in the dead of winter in NY. I grew up around firearms all my life and served in the military, so im very familiar with shooting and zeroing a scope. I took it out of the box, put the scope on it and the 12 year old in me just could not resist firing it, I knew i was not going to go out in the cold and Zero so I just squeezed off a few pellets from my back 2nd floor balcony, i knew i wasn't going to bulls-eye anything but i was kind of surprised that i couldn't even tell where the pellet hit, i think i missed the Maple tree completely... I've got my work cut out for me.

Well done! Very helpful and easy to follow.

Nice video, Clear and Simple guide, cheers.

Thank you so much for this video. I’m new to everything to do with the sport. Just got myself a Webley Raider and I really need the how to on everything. But it’s no good knowing everything and not being able to zero my scope. So I’m very grateful for the help. Also extremely grateful for the maths part! 😀

Thanks for a well explained and helpful video

Just fix gun, aim for middle of target. Then move the knobs so the x-hair is on the point of impact. Just dont move the weapon.

Thank you , very very useful to a beginner like me!!

Thank you, this is very helpful ❤️👍

Great video, great info, thanks for sharing with us. If you need shims and unsure how to find ELL, don’t tell your wife I said this. I use her aluminum foil, cut in approximately 1/4 , 3/8, 1/2: x 1 inch strips to use singularly or multiples to get the scope shimmed. Just my 2 cents.

Ok my friend's in Air Armour, I am looking at an Air Rifle, a Break Barrel piston .22-.25 cal for hunting small game ... it has to be no batteries ... which one of HAWKE Scope's do you recommend?

thank you very clear and very easy to understand especially as i am very new to this

so can I zero in by just tap a laser pointer to the barrel, and adjust the scope so the cross-hair is right on top of the point where the laser points at?

very helpful and clearly explained

very clear explanation,thank you.

Very useful thanks !

Thanks good explanation for spring rifle.

A very well explained handy blog,well done.

Thanks mate The way you explain things is very helpful and easy to understand Nice one 👍

Fine work. However, this is only academic and time wasted if the erector tube inside one's scope is too loose. This is likely due to the user's initial need to to make a huge adjustment to compensate for barrel "droop". This is a very common problem and there are MANY videos on this. Many rifles end up returned due to this. OY. Over compensating with scope adjustments for barrel droop can actually result in broken scopes on the bigger gas ram/spring rifles. So be on the lookout for, and hopefully solve, this classic mounting problem by shimming the rear bottom ring or purchasing adjustable mounts. Otherwise, this may be an exercise in futility. (rant completed.) Happy shooting-

COOL VIDEO MAN, AND GREAT WAY TO MAKE YOURSELF LOOK LIKE A GENIUS. I'll be sure to use the part where I pull out some paper, a pencil, and a calculator, draw some lines, angles, and put some yard numbers, that way when my girlfriend looks outside and checks what I'm doing from the window, she'll think I'm a smart man doing something smart! Ya man. Paper, pencil, and calculator is the best part, lmao. Christ how to go overboard when zero'ing a pellet rifle... lmao

Personally for my airsoft snipers I used a barrel laser to preset range and some math. Then fine tuned at the site. Same method can be used for air rifles over a greater distance.

I just picked up a pellet gun and decided to zero the scope. I lined up on the target and nothing. I kept moving the point of aim until I started hitting the target and found that at 30 feet, the gun was shooting about 18 inches low and about 12 inches to the right. I was shocked that the scope was that far off from new. The scope was already on the pellet gun, so it wasn't something I messed up assembling everything. I am slowly getting it closer to the mark now, but it seems to take it forever to get it closer to the point of aim.

Nice and clear....Can you explain laser bore sight alignment?

Is this the same process for a springer gun

I dont know if it's me or not but I cant seem to get the crosshairs to move with any of my 3 scopes. I turn my turrets but nothing moves.

Very well explained. 👍

just bought a new .177 and a 3-9x 40 scope.. good info thanks.. I have a small step ladder with a paint holder on .. it works great for a rifle rest.. got the scope yesterday and mounted it.. today I'm gonna shoot beer bottle caps @ 65 yards

Method 2 seems much easier and an awful lot less complicated, I wish I had seen this before I tried to zero my scope, I just went by trial and error, 5 shots, adjust up or down, left or right, then 5 shots, an so on, Wish I had known method 2........good and informative video....thumbs up!

I though that when you zero your scope at a set distance you have to first optically center your scopes turrets then adjust your scope with adjustable scope mounts so the cross hair is lined up with the center of the target at the distance you want to make your zero distance. Then once you have your scope set as close as you can get it with the mounts you then fine tune with only a few clicks from its center . This way your not looking through a tube that is at a angle, the best and most accurate sight picture is when the tube is optically centered .Then if you have a turret that can be moved you loosen the set screws on the turret and turn the turrets only without clicking the scope and line the 0 up with the mark on the scope ,this way you know where your zero is and you can adjust as needed for closer or farther shots but can go back to your zero at any time and be optically centered . What you're doing is just adjusting your scope to hit at a set distance with the tube angled to who knows how far off of being centered which can cause you to not be accurate . If the scope is not optically centered you might run out of turret adjustments . Read this it will help you set your scope up correctly . In this link they use a shim but today you can get adjustable rings and thats the best way to go . viriato.net/airgunning/bfta_setup_manual.pdf.

Very clear to follow many thanks .

Once zeroed will it work for different distances or do we need to zero each time for different distances?

Good job.

Well done my friend like your video how to zero a scope, god bless

Thanks mate from New Zealand

I used my girlfriends shoulder to rest my barret 50 cal. on. Worked really well and as an added bonus she hasn’t answered anything I’ve said to her since. 🥇🏆😎

I luv it...i injoyed the information on this here channel

this is a good video but you missed one important detail out....that is make sure you clean you barrel before you Zero your Scope as dirt in the barrel will effect your shot. also a bit too much math. but still a good vid. good effort. 🖒

Hey I have mounded my scope and it’s shooting 5 inch low.but it will not click up anymore.can I shim the back or the front mount

Yes thank you man

Enjoyed the video, very informative. I was a little confused about how to figure out the clicks at the shorter distances and you explained it well. The only issue I had was the audio was out of sync with the video. Could be an issue on my end. Otherwise, two thumbs up.

Shoot at a point then we're ever it hits adjust your klicks to were it hit without moving e the rifle.

It is really simple, adjust the scope to where the bullet hits on the target at 10yds. Then re aim with the adjusted scope for final adjustments. You should have your scope zeroed within three rounds. Yes three rounds but five would be the max.

great video

well explained and presented cheers it will help no end

If my dials are the same at 1/4 over the 100 yards, could I use the number you got? Could I use 0.03125 for calculating how many times I turn the dial based on how far the shots were from the bullseye?

Thank you

Thank you! That explanation was nice and easy.

Nice job. While there are some more simpler ways to achieve Zero when setting scopes, you have done a good job presenting two different methods of sighting scopes. Bonus points for mentioning "Springers" need freedom of movement for the "double recoil" and should NOT be clamped down. In fact I would add that most NP (Crosman) AR's should not be "locked down" as well. The second method you showed is and excellent way to see if your scope actually works BEFORE mounting on your rifle. Check 'Elevation'/'Windage' and the use of the "box pattern" to see if you get "return to center". Once that is checked, then you should mount the scope and then zero/center. After decades of zeroing, with nothing but "bags", I am now considering a professional rifle/scope Sighting sled/bench. I used a friends and oh my goodness...the ease to Zero. Happy Shooting

GREAT! I like the POINTER too...

good job explaining that. steve

PLEASE. TELL US WHAT TOOL THAT WAS YOU USED TO TURN THAT TURRET. THX.

very very very good video

Nice job! Recommending to my students to watch.

Will this work for any scope.

Not bad, just one thing i noticed the wind and how strong it was and your shooting in a area where the wind was not really affecting the shot, also i know for a fact you should be able o see the pellet as your shooting it if your eyesight is real good, still good work, but then again i wonder why the adjustments are done in yards, for gods sake does that mean that almost every scope is set up for adjustments at imperial measurements ?

If you where 50 yards away and .4 inches of, your .25 gets twice as big. so u get .5 inches for a click. that means u want 1 click, not 13. Am i right?

I have made a full scheme on how much clicks you need to turn the knob at the following distances; 100, 90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,5,1 meters and at 100, 90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,5,1 yards. I put on there how much you need to click if you want to move the crosshairs 10 mm at all those distances. ( My scheme is for scopes that work with the 1/4 moa at 100 yards system.) If anyone wants it, tell me and i will email it to you.

I found this very helpful, cheers.

I would love to be able to use method 2 for my spring loaded rifle.

Example: Zero at 35 yards. Shot off by 1" vertical and horizontal. .250" = 1 click at 100 yards, so: (.35 times .250" = .0875") 1", (distance off) divided by .0875 =11.4 clocks, (11 clicks). If you have a quality scope, (and set up well), your next shot will be on target. It took a Leupold to prove that to me. :)